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The Cliffs at the Northermost end of the crag. Visible from the climbs at the North Cliffs.



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Grade Route

About 500m left from Climbing boom.

Start underneath small roof crack and corner, right of Coal Seam Crack. Crack to stance beneath fingercrack roof. Undercling roof to gain corner, then up corner to the top, with a vegetated topout.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in).

So named because Rob chipped his tooth whilst abseiling through the jungle trees shortly after the ascent.

FA: Rob Burton (L) & Alex Bergmann (S), Sep 2012

FFA: Paul Thomson, 24 Mar 2013

20m left of COALgate smile, the obvious R facing corner with a super exposed off-width roof.

  1. 20m climb corner to stance beneath roof. Some dodey rock but pro is reasonable.

  2. 20m Aid through roof and crack above, and free up small offwidth section.

Rap off as for (COALgate smile).

FA: Rob Burton (L) & Jonas (S), Nov 2012

20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. A real classic.

  1. 15m (18) - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

  2. 30m (17) - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag, you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2.

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile

FA: Rob Burton & Morgan Huxley (alt leads), Oct 2012


Check out what is happening in Far North Cliffs.