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Summary

A short walk in, and a variety of different cliffs including a spectacular arch. Most routes climbable in wet weather. A New Crag with potential for New Routes.

Description

There is plenty of rock scattered throughout the numerous gullys (Caves, faces, overhangs)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

At Mt Victoria turn right at the lights and drive along the Darling Causeway till you come to the intersection with the Bells Line of Road at Bell. Turn right (east)as if heading towards Windsor and take the first turn on your left into Sandham Road. Drive along Sandham Rd for the next 3.5km or so until you get GR4559122. On your right there should be a turnoff/firetrail with a white electricity power-pole indicator "384" nailed to a tree. Turn off here after 30m you will reach a clearing for power lines. Continue down the firetrail straight ahead for 200m where you will find 2 small parking bays. Best to leave the car here. Continue walking down the firetrail for about 300metres and then continue along the single foot track till you reach the bend in the ravine/canyon section of the side creek on your left. The arch is on this bend. A more direct approach to the Creekside Sektor rather than walking via the Arch is to take a right hand turn at the last clearing before reaching the arch. It should be marked with a small rock cairn, this path can be followed toward the main creek, down through a small break in the cliffline and down to fixed handlines into the main creek.Then follow acces for Creekside Areas.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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