A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bell's Line of Road 1,092 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.367565, -33.462985

Unique Features And Strengths:

This is the place to head for grand adventures. The multipitch sport routes Pierce's Pass are not for the faint hearted, and not to be missed.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:

The turnoff onto the Bell's Line of Road is at Mt Victoria.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Bowens Creek 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.369807, -33.543827

Unique Features And Strengths:© (mjw)

The best winter crag in the Blueys, with tonnes of routes which bask in the sunshine from about 9am onwards and are well protected from wind and rain.

Description:© (mjw)

Enjoyable, healthy and strenuous day out. A winter wonderland. The most comprehensive sport crag in the region. Steep well-protected, and hard routes, in a wilderness area. Unfortunately the developers mostly used 8mm ringbolts with minimal recessing and the state of the bolts now leaves something to be desired. Check the bolts carefully and make your own decision about whether to do the route. Better yet, pitch in and do some rebolting, it's going to need a group effort.

Access Issues:© (mjw)

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Camping also is not allowed.

Approach:© (mjw)

For Main Wall and Bull Crag the best approach is to follow the firetrail all the way to the end and descend underneath the powerlines. For all other areas it's quicker to turn left off the firetrail after about 25 minutes, at a cairn. However this path is getting quite overgrown, please bring your secaturs for some discreet pruning (yes it is a National Park but in practice Parks prefer to have one well-defined trail, rather than have trail-braiding occur which trashes more of the bush).

1.1.1. Bull Crag 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.373809, -33.540704

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Something for Kate

FA: Kate and Nate

17 Sport 22m
2 * Bull Dozer

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20 Sport 20m
3 * Zulu Dawn

FA: T.Mayer, 2000

22 Sport 25m
4 ** Walter Mitty

FA: A.Duckworth, 1999

19 Sport 24m
5 Daydream Believer

FA: A.Duckworth, 1999

20 Sport 24m
6 * Bulls Eye / Unknown

Bouldery start past first two rings. Up and out through roof, next bolt diagonally right (careful not to link onto DB after roof).

Up easy ground to lower offs. a little runout in some places if this is your grade.

careful with rope length.

Start: 3m right of DB.

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

20 Sport 26m
7 * Born to be Wild

Left hand route off the ledge. Shared start with RB.

FA: T.Mayer, 2001

24 Sport 18m
8 ** Red Bull

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25 Sport 18m
9 ** Bull Roarer

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27 Sport 20m
10 * Rutting Season

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27 Sport 15m

1.1.2. Main Wall Left 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.372113, -33.543176

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mutton Poacher

Far left hand route.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 12m
2 Dial a Dyno

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21 Sport 7m
3 Nowra

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21 Sport 7m
4 The Tea-Ladies from NATO

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23 Sport 15m
5 ** Mr Pink

Great climbing.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1997

21 Sport 15m
6 * Almost Almost

FA: F.Yule, 1997

26 Sport 15m
7 * Bustin Dustin

FA: M.Wilson, 1997

22 Sport 15m
8 Bustin the gate

Link-up. Up Bustin Dustin into the 3rd bolt on Shut the Gate. Finish as for STG.

22 Unknown 20m
9 * Shut the Gate

FA: C.Hale, 1997

22 Sport 15m
10 ** Fuel My Fire

The steep headwall above StG. A good climb that packs a lot of climbing into such a short distance. You will need to extend a couple of the draws on StG and most of the draws on FmF in order to reduce the rope drag. Both hands over the top to claim victory.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27 Sport 12m
11 Pretty Fly

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25 Sport 12m
12 * Kraut Pleaser

Best warm up here.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20 Sport 15m
13 The Brute from the Balkans

Left hand varient of the BfO.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28 Sport 30m
14 *** The Boy From Oz

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

26 Sport 20m
15 * Fox Force Five

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

24 Sport 15m

1.1.3. Main Wall Centre 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.371753, -33.543487

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Hoofmeister Blue

The low crux looks quite mingin' but actually climbs very well.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

29 Sport 20m, 11
2 ** Navel Aviator

The bolts are not great but there's plenty extra.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

27 Sport 20m
3 *** Lloyd of the Rings

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

27 Sport 25m
4 *** 97% Fat-Free

PLEASE CONTRIBUTE TO REBOLTING. The horribly loose second bolt was replaced August 2013, and the third bolt a few years earlier, but bolts 1, 4 and 5 are the originals so probably also suspect. The death clip-n-go biners on the anchors have been removed.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

25 Sport 20m
5 Fat free extension Project (Justin) / Project

Continuation of FF.

FA: Justin, 2000

project Unknown
6 ** The Cripple Pitch

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

26 Sport 20m
7 ** Full Cream

Start up TCP then left at big jug shared by FF.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

30 Sport 25m
8 ** The Blonde Gift

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25 Sport 20m
9 Broken Blonde Gift

since the crux hold further disintegrated pull on the draw......

23 AID:A0 Sport 25m
10 * Cup Cake

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27 Sport 27m
11 *** Beef Cake

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25 Sport 27m
12 ** Itinerate Immigrants

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

24 Sport 25m
13 ** Wish It Was Hard

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26 Sport 25m
14 ** Almost

FA: F.Yule, 1997

26 Sport 25m
15 ** Visibly Aroused

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25 Sport 20m
16 ** The Big Bang Is On

Start from the ground!

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

26 Sport 25m
17 ** Feeling Clucky Bitch?

Start from the ground!

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25 Sport 25m

1.1.4. Main Wall Right 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.371156, -33.543718

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Baboon Banquet!! / Project (Steve)

boulder problem start, to rightward traverse, then radical wall of exciting gymnastic moves lead to a fiesty finish!! classic!!!

Start: begin off the pile of rocks above the ledge Left of chimp chowder.

FA: vince day, 2006

33 Sport 16m
2 ** Chimp Chowder

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26 Sport 15m
3 * Legendary Stuff

The seam.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28 Sport 15m
4 Project (Martin) project Unknown
5 Ape Drape 24 Unknown 15m

1.1.5. Bum Crag 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.369477, -33.543957

Description:

The orange slab between Main Wall and Shopping Crag, capped by a big roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bums Away

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26 Sport 15m
2 * Bum Crack

Up crack with good gear, traverse through roof and meet lowers off on 'Lard Arse'. Second to clean.

Start: In corner between BA and LA

FA: Zack Wasson? No no no, this (shit) route was done in the 90s, as mentioned in the old Pircher/Carter guides., 2009

16 Trad 18m
3 Number 51

The corner on the L end of the Bum Wall slab - alluded to in Pircher/Carter guide. Trad gear. Nice move round the little roof (13), then place high gear for the crux traverse R to the DRB on Lard Arse.

FA: Will Monks, Greg Andrews, 1999

16 Trad 18m
4 Lard Arse

The left hand route on the slab.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

19 Sport 15m
5 ** Sludge Bottom

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 15m
6 Icky Bum

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20 Sport 18m
7 Trouser Snake

FA: F.Leese, 2001

23 Sport 15m
8 * Underpants Jousting

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

22 Sport 12m
9 ** Cody's Crystals

FA: lloyd w

25 Sport 12m
10 Lloaded Scrotum

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

24 Sport 12m
11 Nasty When Cornered

FA: S.Cody, 1999

18 Sport 10m
12 * Chastity Bolt

FA: A.Aardema,M.Brueren, 2001

21 Sport 12m
13 Bitter Harvest

FA: S.Cody, 1999

20 Sport 12m
14 Spawn of Sean

FA: lloyd w

24 Sport 12m

1.1.6. Shopping Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.367694, -33.545147

Description:© (mjw)

The left side of this crag gets sun an hour earlier than the Main Wall warmups, so the 23s & 24s here might be a better option for warming up if its too cold in the shade when you arrive.

Approach:© (mjw)

The first area you come to if taking the cairned track on the left of the fire trail 25mins from the steel gate.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Five Fingered Discount

Far left climb.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

24 Sport 11m
2 * Ram Raid

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24 Sport 12m
3 ** Window Shopping

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23 Sport 12m
4 * Shopping Spree

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23 Sport 13m
5 * Retail Therapy

Shares start with SS.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

24 Sport 14m
6 ** Predatory Pricing

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

25 Sport 15m
7 ** Plastic Surgery Boutique

2-3m L of the arete.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27 Sport 15m
8 ** Short Changed

Climbs THE arete, on the left side.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

25 Sport 15m
9 * Transaction Declined

3m R of the arete.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

26 Sport 15m
10 ** Express Checkout

About 6m R of the arete, up the R side of the somewhat chossy-looking patchy white rock.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23 Sport 13m
11 * No Refunds

The seam 3m L of HYC.

FA: F.Leese, 2001

25 Sport 15m
12 * Half Yearly Clearance

The deepest groove in this wall, about 10m R of the arete. The burly heel-hook mantle start onto the shelf might not be the best warmup. It can seep a bit, but the climbing is good and it has some of the most comfy megabuckets at Bowens.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

20 Sport 11m
13 Line of Credit

Far right route.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

21 Sport 12m

1.1.7. Aliens' Domain 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.365400, -33.545565

Approach:© (mjw)

Scramble down below 'Shopping Wall', then left (facing out)until you come to the Tyrollian. Cross the creek, then up to cliffline. Head around to the right (facing in) along the broken cliff line until you come to the Wall. One hour walk from car to crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 First Contact

FA: M.Turnbull, 1999

23 Sport 15m
2 * Superior Species

FA: M.Turnbull, 1999

23 Sport 15m
3 ** It Came From Outta Uranus

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25 Sport 15m
4 * The Alien Spat Her Out

FA: M.Turnbull, 1999

26 Sport 15m
5 * Primitive Life Form

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25 Sport 15m
6 ** Gastro Girl

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

27 Sport 15m
7 ** The Alienateher

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

29 Sport 15m
8 Bantha Fodder

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

24 Sport 18m
9 Outer Space

Batman start!

FA: S.Bell, 2000

21 Sport 15m
10 ** Austri-Alien

Batman start!

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

24 Sport 23m
11 Orbital Decay

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

28 Sport 23m
12 Open Project project Unknown
13 ** Visit Venus

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

28 Sport 20m
14 *** Pigs in Space

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

30 Sport 17m
15 *** Freak on a Leash

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

27 Sport 15m
16 ** Interstellar Fella

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26 Sport 13m
17 * Swine Trek

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

25 Sport 12m
18 Mars Needs Women

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

25 Sport 12m
19 ** Inter Galactic Spastic 32 Unknown 25m
20 Mission To Mars

FA: Monique Forestier

31 Unknown

1.2. Pierces Pass 88 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.338880, -33.576680

Description:© (secretary)

Massive Multi-Pitch Adventure

1.2.1. Pierces Pass West Side 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.329982, -33.572635

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Kryptonite Krack 23 Unknown 28m
2 * Samson Gets a No 1 21 Unknown 28m
3 * Wrath of Delilah 19 Unknown 60m
4 *** Bladderhozen 23 Sport 110m
5 ** Church of the Seven Samurai

Wall with great gear left of bladderhozen.

24 Trad 110m
6 ** The Iron Throne

4 well bolted sport pitches with shade after 10am and minor weather protection in the upper pitches. All bolts and belays are glue-in rings - no bolt plates required. Try not to throw anything on the canyoners that wander along the base of the route at regular intervals. Starts 10m left of Bladderhozen, and 3m left of Church of the Seventh Samurai at far left end of small ledge at small tree and small balancing flake.

  1. 14m (16) Easy face left of balancing flake to ledge. Scramble up and left 5m to belay left of giant flake. 5 bolts.

  2. 32m (23) Easily up left side of giant flake for a few metres then straight up the orange wall. At 15m tread cautiously past shale band and through crux undercut. Once the difficulty eases trend right for a couple of bolts to miniature ledge belay. 12 bolts.

  3. 30m (21) Long orange wall left of major corner to big ledge. 11 bolts

  4. 37m (23) Tricky slab start then continue up orange wall that steepens gradually to a pumpathon finish onto ledge. 15 bolts. Rap back down the route. Double ropes required unless you have an 80m single or don't mind a rope stretch just reach the belay on a 70m.

Set by @nmonteith, 20th Feb

FA: @nmonteith,@adam_demmert,@cathdv, 28th Feb

23 Sport 110m 4
7 * Mr Mac's Crack 21 Trad 130m
8 * Kiss and Tell 22 Trad 60m
9 * Tientel 21 Trad 200m
10 ** Better Than Ben Hur 20 Trad 160m
11 Horror Movie; It's the 6.30 News

FA: L Trihey, C Jackson, 2002

21 Trad 150m
12 coss 20 Trad 60m

1.2.2. Pierces Pass East Side 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.334006, -33.572416

Description:© (aarond)

Down the Main Pierces Pass track

Approach:© (aarond)

Down the Main 'Pierces Pass' track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grasshopper

Free climb at 25

Start: Nice splitter crack on the big orange wall on the left near the bottom of 'Pierces Pass' track

FA: R Hentschke, J Welch, 2002

FFA: mikl law, 2008

25 Trad 70m
2 Cicada-Grasshopper Linkup - Open Project

An obvious linkup of P3 of Cicada into the direct finish (Grasshopper) bypassing the middle and top cruxes of Cicada, but joining Grasshopper just before its top crux. Easier than the original Cicada finish. Requires a few cams.

From the belay at the end of P2 of Cicada, continue up as for Cicada P3 past 3 bolts (into the bright orange streak) out left. Continue up this (without traversing back right to Cicada's 4th bolt) to the anchors for Grasshopper.

Trad Project 20m
3 *** Cicada

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper.

Start as for Pitch 1 of grasshopper.

P1 (18) 10m - Climb the short crack and flake system on gear to the belay anchors at the obvious ledge.

P2 (23) 25m - Start up Grasshopper P2 for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

P3 (24) 20m - A great technical pitch, but a bit wandery in order to avoid retroing/climbing Grasshopper, while still trying to follow the easiest line. From the belay, climb right a move or two, then up reinforced flake system, and out left to re-attached hold in bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m past a bolt, then before reaching chossy monster jugs (where Grasshopper moves right of the crack) head back right to other orange streak (and bolt) via big flakes. Up this orange streak via some weird features to easier ground in grey rock. Step left a bit at horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors. The top half is easier if you go off route onto the top of Grasshopper (could be a future linkup).

Top out, or rap back to main belay ledge, and again to ground.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: 2013

FA: Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

24 Mixed 55m 3, 15
4 * Green Grocer (Cicada RHV) - OPEN PROJECT

OPEN PROJECT.

"Easy traverse start into cruxy technical, thin, crimpy traversing, then 8m of pleasant thin face. Might be 24-25, but only for up to 4m or so" - Paul T

A technical line that avoids the strenuous climbing of Cicada P3 by replacing it with technical traversing.

From the belay at the end of Cicada P2, Climb right a move or two, clip first bolt on Cicada P3, then continue right to next bolt and up twin flake system. Clip this bolt, then up and trend right following bolts to orange streak left of arete. Up this to anchors on slab. 6 bolts + anchors on this pitch.

Top out and rap off above Grasshopper (or walk back up to Rigby Hill), or clean on lower off to belay at end of P2, and rap once to ground.

Set by P. Thomson, 2013

Sport Project 20m, 6
5 ** Cricket

A good long 2nd pitch of sustained technical face climbing. The 1st pitch is essentially a bolted boulder problem to gain the first ledge.

Pitch 1 (12m, 23/24) - Start at ground level in small cave right of the small corner (Grasshoppers' first pitch). Tricky start to gain roof, then around lip of roof (crux) and up easy slab to the anchors. The bolt just around the lip of the roof is hard to clip. Belay off ledge anchors below the start of Grasshopper/Cicada (extend using rope).

Pitch 2 (35m, 23/24) - A hard start. Jump start to okay hold, then tricky moves to gain better holds. Tricky mantle, then malevolent slab sequence to the next bolt. Easier climbing out right, up small corner, then up right side of "groove" system to massive detached block. Past this (easiest to hand traverse right), then thin face climbing all the way to the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Can JUST BARELY lower off to the lower ledge with a 70m rope (tie a knot in the end).

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2014

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2014

23 Sport 50m 2, 18
6 Coghill New Route #1

CLOSED PROJECT

Set by C Coghill

Sport Project 35m
7 Coghill New Route #2

CLOSED PROJECT

Set by C Coghill

Unknown Project 35m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Bwardervan Dexter Route 21 Unknown 27m
9 * The Colours of Spring

NOTE:

*Pitch 2 does NOT finish at the first set of chains, but instead goes up a short corner to the left, then back right under the roof to a set of carrot bolt anchors around the corner.

*After the recent bushfires, rapping off after P3 is no longer feasible (the rap tree is disintegrating), you must top out (P4) to escape this climb safely.

21 Unknown 110m
10 ** By Hook or by Crook

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

23 Trad 55m
11 Fungous Face 19 Unknown 66m
12 ** Larry 20 Unknown 40m
13 ** Curly 21 Unknown 50m
14 Moe 20 Unknown 35m
15 Old Testament 15 Unknown 250m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 *** Smegadeath

All on carrots - 17 on the first pitch, including the belay.

FA: @mikl

23 Sport 220m 6
17 * Skyrider 22 Unknown 70m
18 ** Fret Arete 23 Unknown 40m
19 ** Disco Biscuit 23 Sport 250m
20 * Proteus

Easy to get lost

15 Unknown 220m

1.2.3. Rigby Hill 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Check Ya Head

FA: G.Fairburn/S.Cambell, 2000

19 Trad 23m
2 *** Born to be Mild

Climb the exposed arete

FA: G.Fairburn/S.Cambell, 2003

18 Sport 23m

1.2.4. Walls Lookdown 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.338776, -33.575716

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jimmy Schlimm Schlammer 19 Unknown 50m
2 * Crash Test Dummies 22 Unknown 200m
3 * Yogaphobic 22 Unknown 160m
4 * Voidophobia 21 Unknown 240m
5 ** Super Trance 2000 23 Sport 35m
6 *** Debris

Find the 2 rings 5 metres under the lookout near the tree. 13 draws and you may wish there was one more bolt.

FFA: mikl

23 Sport 55m, 13
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Disco Non-Stop Party

A truly amazing looking arête, perched above 150m of clean air. But reportedly a little fragile, and may be a couple of grades harder due to snappage.

25 Unknown 40m
8 *** The Obvious Elbow of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter / The Magnum Opus Project

A giant 58m single pitch straight up the face between Disco Non-Stop Party and I Have a Dream, sharing the last few bolts (and upper crux) of I Have a Dream. Mega!

20 bolts, and some well-placed long runners will be crucial to mitigating rope drag. There is an optional (but recommended) small cam (0.3/0.4) in a slot near the top section of I Have a Dream.

Can be accessed by the I Have a Dream rap anchors (55m rap), or the belay anchor can be WALKED to from near Lunch Ledge, and traversing 20m past 5 bolts (about grade 3) to the belay anchor (meaning your belayer doesn't HAVE to Second the route).

To access the climb from Lunch Ledge, follow the normal Lunch Ledge access track (criss-crossing the creek) until just before the track takes a turn left and heads away from the little creek. Cross the creek to the right side (looking out) via convenient logs and head towards a short vibrant brown arete. Hug the rock below the arete, and move through scrub until you arrive at a single ringbolt protecting the Grade 3 traverse in front (can be backed up off old carrots).

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

26 Sport 58m, 20
9 ** I Have a Dream

04/10/2014 - Replaced 2 manky bash-in carrots (with fixed hangers) with new rings. - P.T.

25 Sport 50m
10 * Long Strong or Blond 22 Unknown 130m

1.2.5. Lunch Ledge 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.342021, -33.578158

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gob Smack

Is this the arête just left of Jub Jub the Iguana? If so it might be a retrobolt of the bold 6th pitch of Samarkand.

FA: Mikaela Thomson, 2009

FA: Mikaela Thomson, 2009

23 Sport 12m
2 Jub Jub the Iguana

Start: Climbs the grey wall just right of the little cave. (There is now a new climb to the left of it on the arete above the cave.)

19 Sport 15m
3 * Sideshow Bob

Start: Next line of ringbolts to the right, off a higher ledge.

20 Sport 18m
4 * Heavy Chaffing 21 Sport 18m
5 * A Date with Dentistry

Start: Start up 'Heavy Chaffing' and go right at the top.

21 Sport 20m
6 ** Scarred For Life

FA: Nathan Bolton

22 Unknown 25m
7 * Are you Doing it as Hard as Wimmera Party Ice

Start: Start about 10m further right

22 Sport 30m
8 *** Burn The Cross

FA: Nathan Bolton

24 Unknown 30m
9 ** Humies Sheltered Workshop

Start: Start 6m right around arete, go left at the top and finish as for the ice thing.

23 Sport 32m
10 ** Phil's Effort 23 Sport 20m
11 ** Hypothermia

FA: Mikaela Thomson

17 Sport 25m
12 *** Samarkand

There are 3 main access options, each with their challenges: (1) Rap in from 'Critical Mass' and walk back towards Walls lookout, approx 100m, but dropping low below a choss cliff then bashing back up through a steep and usually very wet swamp. (2) There is a dedicated rap route 40m R of the top of the route, 25m,50m,50m, but sadly now the hardware is in poor shape. The top anchor is just passable but the others are a little less substantial. Fixing an 80m+ rope down as far as the last anchor is enough to improve this option markedly. (3) Rapping the route, steep as it is, is reportedly an option. Rapping p5 is easy. P4 has enough bolts to redirect you most/all of the way to the ledge. P3&2 would get trickier, prob need trad directional pieces to stay in touch.

Double rack of cams, micros to #3, and a single set of wires, #2 RP up, does the trick. Plus prussics, it's steep.

  1. 15m (23) 1st 5m or so have 'average' rock quality (1BR) then onto the slab with polished hard sandstone and RP seam. TBB below cramped little rooflet, extend them 2m past small swamp to dry(er) foot ledge.

  2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start to get past 2 FHs, R to rejoin the line and up into chimney. Climb this until it forces you out and onto the face. Punch hard up crack and into the 2nd crack up and left. Belay from good ledge on single carrot and large cams.

  3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in splitter layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance (BR, trad).

  4. 35m (22) Punch up open book corner on good gear using crack and face holds. You are then forced onto the face at 3/4 height where the carrots are. 1st carrot is SUPER hard to put plate over, but you can put a good No.4 Camalot in break below it.Climb to small ledge and small corner. Tricky moves past 2 carrots lead to big ledge and carrot belay. (4a: 23. 8m up the corner, traverse R to arête, up arête (1BR then a runout), to rejoin the original for it's final 2 bolts. Lots of fragile rock (and exposure) on this pitch. Prussics!).

  5. 25m (22) This would be a good rap-in and climb-out pitch in its own right if you aren't up for the rest. Follow obvious left leaning crack 2m left of belay until it peters out, step right then up scoop to fragile short headwall with 3 carrots. Take care mantling the grass and dirt slope (yum) and on the 10m scramble up to path. Single RB in block, plus cams or a RB from the pitches above.

  6. 20m (22) The arête above the cave on Lunch Ledge. The 2015 guide says this is runout with a key thread at 4m. But the right side of the arête has ringbolts so it either stays left or has been retroed. Many people skip it.

25 Trad 200m 5
13 Gnaw Iron Bars

FA: M Wilson, M Law, 2007

22 Trad 150m 6
14 *** Critical Mass 26 Unknown 160m
15 ** Sweet Romancer 24 Sport 40m
16 * My Kind of Bliss 21 Trad 100m 3
17 * Darkside

Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear.

FA: Ness, Mikl, Mark Wilson

14 Trad 110m
18 *** The West Face of the Mirrorball / The West Face of the Mirrorball (19 var.)

Four pitch, bolted (carrots), slightly runout climb with epic views across the valley. Take 10 brackets. You can finish the route with an extra pitch by doing the confusingly named Mirrorball (21) pitch above Lunch Ledge.

Start: On outer left (NW) arete of the Mirrorball Pinnacle. Look for the line of bolts.

  1. 25m (19) Up arete to ledge, with DBB.

  2. 30m (18) Up arete and face to chossy cave and high DBB on far lip of cave.

  3. 20m (17) Up face to big ledge.

  4. 45m (18) Up face, to Lunch Ledge, moving right. Pretty exposed.

FA: Peterson, Wilson & Law., 2000

19 Sport 120m 4
19 *** Mirrorball

Long sport pitch above lunch ledge, all fixed. 45m rap from cave at top (don't rap in windy weather, you'll lose a rope)

FA: M wilson, V Peterson, M Law, 2000

21 Sport 40m
20 * Dirty Dancing

The obvious chimney & crack that splits the front face of the Mirrorball Pinnacle.

  1. 25m (13) Up the chimney on natural gear (#5 camalot is handy for near the top). Double bolt belay.

  2. 18m (20) Weird undercut wide crack start (large cam is handy again) then up the narrowing crack to the classic finger-crack (crux, well protected with medium-large wires). Double bolt belay.

  3. 20m (16) Bolts (bring lots of brackets) and dinnerplates. Double bolt belay on top of Mirrorball Pinnacle.

  4. As for pitch 4 of The West Face of the Mirrorball.

All bolts are stainless steel glue-in hex heads (bring lots of bolt plates!). A good variation is to do P1 of The West Face of the Mirrorball, then step right to do P2 of Dirty Dancing, then P3 of either route - the belays are on the same ledge systems.

FA: Peter Monks, Andrew Duckworth (alt), 2000

20 Trad 63m 3
21 Disco Dancer 22 Sport 100m 4
22 ** Bionic Booger Boys 23 Sport 100m
23 ** Roar for the Wicked Wedgie Woman 22 Unknown 100m
24 *** Weaselburger

The classic of the area.. A great mix of styles on great rock..

24 Sport 200m
25 *** Burgermeister

Belay & abseil as weaselburger more direct trad route. Finish at ledge after the third pitch.

23 Sport 100m 3
26 ** Old Skool

Climb the south-facing (downhill) arete of the free-standing pinnacle 40m past Weaselburger, predominantly on gear.

5 carrot bolts and a double rack of cams. Bring more big cams (#3 an #4) if you get scared on trad.

Rap off anchor at the top, 45m straight over the route.

FA: M Law, V Peterson, 2003

21 Trad 45m
27 *** Blue Ruin

Climbs a great wall with an inspiring seam. Two awesome pitches, two nice ones and two easy chossy ones. Take 16 draws. Starts 30m right of Burgermiester, up a gully, below a left facing corner. It is possible to traverse left at belay 3 to escape, but you will need 3 bolt brackets.

  1. 40m (22) Layback corner. 12 ubolts

  2. 40m (24) Follow amazing seam to belay on right. Crux is at low roof.

  3. 30m (21) Follow seam onto large ledge.

  4. 30m (18) Easy choss, out left and back right to hanging belay.

  5. 45m (23) Up sustained wall trending right. Very crimpy!

  6. 10m (10) Up easy ground past a UB to ledge.

FA: Mike Law, Vanessa Peterson & Monique Foristier, 2007

25 Sport 200m 6
28 * Big Trad Thong

Mixed climbing up a prominant crack line and around some huge roofs. Rock is of varying quality, but bolts protect the worst of it, and the spectacular under-roof traverse is on mostly good rock. Take a standard rack plus extra big cams and hexes to fist + size, many slings, 10 brackets.

Start: Start below a steep yellow layback corner (pitch 1 of Blue Ruin) 70m right of the Mirrorball pinnacle.

  1. 45m (18) Up corner to second ring, long slings (or come back and unclip the ring) and easy traverse to right arête and carrots, step around and up layback flake to ledge. R to next corner (BR), R along ledge, up then left to U and carrot belay.

  2. 35m (18) Up corner R of the belay, step R and up corner (BR), step R and up corner past 2 bolts, traverse left at top (BR) to carrot and U belay.

  3. 25m (19) Wander out left and up corner past cams and bolts, then back right past 2 more bolts, continue up rightwards to ledge. 3BB.

  4. 35m (20) Up to ledge (2BRs) then a hard move in the corner past bolts and up to roof and bolts. Massive traverse under 18m roof underclinging thin hand to fist crack, clip ring at lip to avoid rope jambing in crack. Pull lip and up ramp for 4m to 2U belay. Easier to lead than to second. Well protected but gripping.

  5. 35m (18) Up easy ramp and follow wide crack to large roof, 2U belay on lip.

  6. 25m (17) Up corner and groove (BR), step left into chimney (BR) and up easily to bolts on ledge on right.

FA: M Law, V Peterson, N Monteith, 2008

20 Trad 200m 6

1.2.6. Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.345702, -33.580625

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Bunny Bucket Buttress

Use to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay.

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 ropes (for rapping), and a few slings.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap down about 20m R of Mirrorball pinnacle and walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 50m, drop down around the base of Old Skule(clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m then scramble up and right to a ledge 15 m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Scramble up and walk right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the desperate boulder problem start. If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high blck then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far.

  1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

  2. 20m (18) right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

  3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block ro walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

  4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

  5. 40m (8) climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

  6. 40m (17) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. This pitch can give bad drag, either sling the first 3 bolts to reduce drag or (PRO-TIP) bring second up to belay on second bolt and back up with a hanger on a carrot. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

  7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump and move L to layback move at top.Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

  8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Lots of rope drag.

TO ESCAPE: Walk up the L side of the ridge for 100m to join the footpad heading L back to Bell’s line of road. Or go up the L side of the ridge for a few meters and then go around the small gully to go back to cliff edge. Go along the cliff edge to a small cairn above a short gullly, walk down to rap down Mirrorball to your gear at the lunch ledge (not when it's windy tho, easy to lose a rope). If it's windy walk north near cliff edge for 200m to gully and down to Lunch Ledge

FA: V Peterson, M Law, 2005

18 Sport 270m
2 ** Randy Rabbit Ridge

A more funky version of BBB, with a bit more variety, but pumpier and more climbing. If you waste time on belays this will take a long time. Start in big black corner leading to orange wall 20m R of BBB, and 10m left of a huge sloping boulder sticking out of the ground near the track.

  1. 25m (19) up reachy corner. There are a few small chain hangers on the first 2 pitches, people have threaded them.

  2. 20m (19) start on left and up then traverse R to belay ledge

  3. 25m (19) up corner to ledge

  4. 40m (18) Boulder start then up and r to corner, hard move around arête and up to grassy slope, up 8 m wall to belay at top

  5. 25m (17) up slope and up arête past bolts to belay on top. (second could wander up to the base of the wall after you've clipped the first ring to give you a better belay -less rope stretch- for the hard move out of the cave).

  6. 20m scramble up left and up to corner, belay on tree on right. Can join P5 and P 6 but you'll have drag.

  7. 15m (18) up wall on right, clip 3rd bolt (above ledge) with screwgate to limit fall

  8. 30m (19) up L to corner then traverse left and up wall. Awesome position

  9. 20m (17) Walk L 5 m (can move belay to here) and up pumpy wall to cave

  10. 30m (17) Up wall and head right. Up slab, pass first belay and go to 2nd set of paired rings (you can link P9, 10, 11 into 2 pitch by belaying at first set of rings)

  11. 30m (19) Up and right to nose. Step R around nose to undercling and up, later unclip that bolt to reduce drag then left to arete to finish. Follow BBB access to escape

FA: @mikl,@eugenem,@jcrass, 2016

20 Sport 280m 11, 99
3 *** Big Nose

Awesome 'finger-pickin' fun.

Start: At pillar beside track before reaching California\'s buttress

24 Sport 250m
4 Amoeba

The Original, Classic, Epic.

FA: Batty / Allen, 2000

18 Trad 330m
5 ** Contented Cows

The first three pitches (17, 8, 19) of CC linked into the top of HC makes for a sub-20 outing. The first three pitches were retrobolted January 2011 entirely on RBs/UBs/FHs, so no brackets are required, although it's wise to take a couple in case you have to share belays.

  1. 45m (17) Low angle cracked face then slab just left of arete to ledge and anchors. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

  2. 15m (10) Short vertical crack. This pitch can be linked into pitch 1. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

  3. 40m (19) Thin black face trending slightly right to ledge. Clip high bolt (with difficulty) then crux horrible chinup/mantle onto short face and up to ledge and tree belay. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

  4. 10m Trad corner about 15m left of Hotel Cali's bolted line.

  5. 10m Short thin corner to big shale ledge. Walk 10m left to belay.

  6. 40m (22) Follow the Hotel California traverse on the top head wall for 5 bolts then head straight up the seam crack on good but spaced trad to a poor carrot belay on ledge. (U rap station 8m R and down)

  7. 45m (22) Hard moves over the bulge (two BRs) then straight up the epic trad protected juggy face. Take 8 slings. carrot and U belay. Scramble up hill to cave. Walk right and up short rock step to under chossy upper cliffline. Walk left under this clliffline and up exit gully.

FA: @mikl,Vanessa Peterson,Mark Wilson,Zac Vertrees, 2006

22 Trad 280m 7
6 *** Contented Cows/Hotel Cali link-up

Lots of fun and still an adventure, top 3 pitches of Hotel California are fabulous! You want to be solid with exposure! Start first 2 two pitches of C.C. First pitch to ledge at 40m but don't stop here, go up thru bush then up 5m wall to DDR belay(60m) . Second pitch 40m to ledge then tranverse right along ledge onto last 10m of 3rd pitch of H.C. Follow Hotel California from there.

FA: Mike Law and Co.

20 Sport 300m 9
7 *** Hotel California (8 pitches)

Pull thru on gear on first pitch and go up escape gully to avoid choss at the end of pitch 8.

21 M1 Aid 290m
8 *** Hotel California

10 pitch sport route, access via abseil 15m R of Mirrorball (2 x 45m abseils), walk right past pinnacle at 40 m, hit base of cliff at 100m, drop down, then go up to cliff (near start of Bignose). Walk round the base of buttress and drop down a bit, then go up and you can see a 8m pinnacle/flake leaning against the steep face. This is the start. About 350m walk. There is a much easy variant to the first 3 pitches by starting up Contented Cows, all rings at 17, 8 (12m), and 19.

FA: mikl law, Ness Peterson Shaz Clarke, 2001

22 Sport 350m 10

1.2.7. Yesterday's Groove Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.349744, -33.582055

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Slaughter Falls

Major corner with a waterfall pouring straight over the top! Avoid like the plague after heavy rain or in winter. No trad required, but bring some longer draws to extend runners on pitch 3.

23 Sport 93m 4
2 ** Slackbladder

A monster sport route, with great exposed arete climbing on every pitch bar one. If you want to do the full route, rap in via Mirrorball and walk along base of cliff past Bucket Bunny and 'Hotel California'. You can also just climb the last 4 pitches if you rap in down 'Yesterday' Groove. Equipped on a rainy night, the bolts seemed too far apart in the light of day, thus 4 more were added after the first ascent! If it's been raining avoid this route for at least a few days as a temporary waterfall blows onto the arete at pitch 5. Bring 20 draws, prussics or an ascender, double ropes and enough time!

Start: Starts aprox 100m right of 'Hotel California' below major arete.

  1. 15m (21) Little corner then right onto rounded arete. At ledge walk right and step across gap and up short chossy crack to belay under main arete.

  2. 17m (25) Bouldery and powerful. 'Monkey' over roof and swing left across lip to gain arete. Up this to comfy belay ledge.

  3. 29m (25) Up arete with devious moves for 15m, then traverse right onto face away from arete for several metres, then trend left back onto the arete at flake to finish. Bolts up the arete direct are an open project. Belay in large slot under roof.

  4. 25m (23) Thug over roof and up aretes to belay on vegetated slope at DUB.

  5. 50m (5) Scramble up hill side to 7m fixed rope. Hand over hand or prussic up this and continue up vegetated hillside to arrive at base of upper wall.

  6. 35m (23) Face to major arete with offset seam on the right side. A pumper! Hanging belay in little cave.

  7. 25m (22) Technical arete on small ironstone edges. Hanging bolt belay or link into the next pitch for full value!

  8. 18m (22) Up the wall and then left to arete and up to large cave belay. A little bold. You can bail from the end of this pitch by scrambling up the gully to the left (roped).

  9. 17m (24) Bouldery. Crawl right through cave and peer around lip to find hanging belay bolt. Re-position belay. Rightwards up face on crimpers, then back left up pumpy wall to easy death by ironstone.

25 Sport 230m 9
3 Drybladder

A dry first pitch to 'Slackbladder' if the waterfall is running onto the main arete. A bit chossy but has plenty of bolts. Delicately up the vegetation to first bolt, then bouldery first move to gain the arete on the right. Up the arete then out left above the roof and up face and arete to hanging belay at little cave (same belay as pitch 1 of Slackbladder). Free climbed with a sit on the last bolt.

Start: Starts at bolted arete on right of chossy corner 5m right of 'Slackbladder'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mike Law & Vanessa Peterson, 2000

23 M0 Sport 35m, 14
4 *** Yesterday's Groove

Major orange corner. Hard. Heavily rebolted now

  1. 40m (23) Stemming corner

  2. 30m (23) Very technical stemming!

  3. 30m (24) Airy traverse left across major break and then up face to finish.

24 Sport 100m 3
5 *** Mild Peril

…with jug references. 'Steep' and juggy, Gets sun at 4pm

Start: 100m right of yesterday's Groove at small right facing corner

  1. 15m (20) Up corner, clip 2nd u with screwgate to protect runout. DUB (Double Ubolt Belay)

  2. 48m (22) Up and leftwards, use long draws to reduce drag. DUB

  3. 20m (23) Out left, sling second runner. BUB on right

  4. 25m (20) Up and head left to DUB. Scramble up and walk left 70m to scramble up.

FA: mikl, Ness, Moss, Tom Cecel, 2009

23 Sport 110m 4
6 * 50 year itch

trad corners leading to slab. Take big rack and some brackets.

Start: About 120m right of yesterday's groove, scramble up to ledge and single U belay

  1. 15m (19) Up crack on left to ledge and BB

  2. 40m (19) left into corner and up past 2BR to roof, Up crack, Up chimney to ledge on left (right?) arete, bolt and cam anchor

  3. 35m (19) Up corner till it fades, past botls and cams, left into easy crack and ledge. DUB

  4. 35m (18) Left and up slab (Ubolts) then follow dirty ramp to ledge and DUB.

  5. 30m (15) Left 5m to corner, Up corner past bolt and up grass slope to base of big cliff and DUB. Finish up gully on left

FA: Moss,Tom cecil,Erwin Gamboa,@mikllaw, 2010

19 Mixed 160m 5, 19
7 Probus

Thin face climbing variant finish

Start: On belay 3 of 50 year itch

FA: Mikl, Moss, Tom Cecil, 2010

22 Sport 35m, 9
8 ** Rutger Hauer

Brilliant face climbing on all pitches. All Ubolts

Start: Start as for 50 Year Itch, 120m right of Yesterday's Groove. Best to leave gear at the col, scramble down and rap down Yesterday's Groove raps

  1. 30m (18) Lots of huge holds up a right trending line to get you warmed up. Belay on 2nd ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Up more fantastic juggy rock to belay on left end of ledge. Move belay 10m right to right end of ledge.

  3. 30m (23) Up brilliant technical wall with some airy exposure to small stance - either belay here on double rings or link into next pitch. 16 draws if you want to link the top two pitchs.

FA: Moss, Mikl, 2010

23 Sport 110m 3

1.3. Centennial Trev 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.267328, -33.480782

Unique Features And Strengths:

A short walk in, and a variety of different cliffs including a spectacular arch. Most routes climbable in wet weather.

Description:

There is plenty of rock scattered throughout the numerous gullys (Caves, faces, overhangs)

Access Issues:

The National Parks and Wildlife Service has advised that climbing is not permitted at "Centennial Trev" due to the high impact on the rare and significant sandstone arch (Dargan Arch) and adjacent cliffs (including Creekside). These areas and access tracks are all within Blue Mountains National Park. They have been developed without consultation and approval from NPWS and bolts will be removed. The cooperation of climbers in protecting this significant area is appreciated. For further information contact Blackheath NPWS on 47878877 or neil.stone@environment.nsw.gov.au

1.3.1. Arch area (the caverns) 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.266466, -33.481569

Description:

The first area you stumble across, the routes in this area are STEEP with most remaining dry in the rain.

1.3.1.1. The upstream block 1 route in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266261, -33.481342

Approach:

Just upstream from the arch

1.3.1.2. Stockholm Wall 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266500, -33.481409

Description:

Short, overhanging and very sporty

Approach:

Directly opposite the arch. Climb the fixed rope to belay ledge.

1.3.1.3. The Arch walls 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266319, -33.481583

Description:

STEEP

1.3.1.4. First cave 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266452, -33.481715

Description:

A steep bowl style cave

Approach:

Just around the corner from the Arch

1.3.1.5. Second cave 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.266552, -33.481791

Description:

A large steep cave and adjoining vertical wall.

Approach:

Just around the corner from first cave.

1.3.2. Creekside 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.268053, -33.480216

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Calm down

Nice climbing to an exciting finish. Value for the grade.

FFA: 2012

19 Sport 25m
2 * The Wranger

Interesting face climbing. Save some juice for the top!

FFA: 2012

18 Sport 25m

These first two routes are about 80m's further north on the orange section of wall. Accessed off a small ledge.

3 *** The Hobbit Destination

Hard boulder start and a great rest after. Balancy moves lead to the crux and a nice finish

FFA: 2014

24 Sport 27m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Mattress Lizard

The slightly overhanging line on massive jugs. Long and pumpy and a fun crux. Keep moving!

FFA: 2011

22 Sport 27m
5 *** Fan snake

Slightly overhanging sustained climbing up the middle of the beautiful orange wall.

Set 2012

FFA: 2014

28 Sport 30m
6 * Cracker

Fun!, Follow the crack then move left onto the final headwall.

FFA: 2012

20 Sport 30m

1.4. Bell Supercrag 166 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295553, -33.535076

Description:

See http://bmtopos.com/ for the original online guide to this area. Thanks to Lloyd, Steve and Megan!

Approach:

From Bell, at the intersection of the Darling Causeway and Bell’s Line of Rd, head 1.5km towards Richmond/Sydney. Slow down as you approach the start of the first passing lane, so that you don’t miss the fire trail on the right, directly opposite the ‘Keep Left When Overtaking’ sign. Drive down the rough fire trail for 350m to a parking area, or park on the verge if you have a low clearance vehicle. If approaching from Richmond, it is safer to continue 400 m past the fire trail and turn around in a pullout on the left, immediately before the ‘60 Ahead’ sign at Bell.

A well-defined walking track begins beside the power pole in the carpark, initially along the flat ridge, then gently downhill. After 20 min, a flat area is reached just after you break out of the last trees onto a broad heath-covered ridge (with a good view of Ikara Head). From the flat area, the track heads down more steeply to the left (east), leading you into the descent gully. The bottom of the descent gully is equipped with fixed ropes and fixed rungs (not suitable for kiddies).

You'll emerge at the right end of Departures and Arrivals, for a total walking time of 25 min (30 min on the way out). The other crags require between 5 and 20 min more walking.

History:

Seen by many over the years, it wasn’t until Lloyd Wishart stumbled his way down Jungaburra Brook in August 2006 that climbing at Bell started with the bolting of Wet Paint at Arrivals. Megan Turnbull and Steve Grkovic agreed to pitch in, after forcing Lloyd to try the current more user-friendly approach, first negotiated in the gathering gloom of an August evening without torches. Lloyd stamped his authority by quickly drilling his way to double figures at Arrivals and Departures, before the devastating bush fires in October 2006 put a stop to proceedings. The fires left behind an alien black landscape, burnt hammers, ropes and other equipment, with jumars and biners reduced to small mounds of melted metal.

In 2009, after several winters spent climbing at Arrivals and Departures, while belayers gazed longingly at the sun-drenched crags on the opposite side, the development of The Devils Circus, Treble Clef and Sunnyside was tackled. Martin Pircher flew back from Austria to kick things off with Seamstress, Megan had some epic struggles bolting the longer routes Searching for the Light and The Dreaming Void and Steve established some great steep climbing in at the Devils Circus. The Outpost, Duck Wall and Blowhole followed over the years.

Since 2011, Neil Monteith, Ben Junga, Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson, Thom Samuels and Jay Trent have joined the fray to push the number of lines well over the 100 mark.

1.4.1. Control Room 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295980, -33.534246

Description:

A small east-facing buttress opposite Duck Wall. From the descent gully, about 10m above the height of the Departures ledge, follow a faint track left (looking down) that heads up under a small outcrop (see bottom of p5). Then scramble down a short gully and follow the exposed ledge around left to the base of the climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Windscreen Viper

A short, steep and fierce corner with two solid fistjams separated by the obvious ‘windscreen’ feature. Last bolt is hard to clip. Consider taping up if you’re anticipating having an epic

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012

26 Sport 10m
2 Sleet of Your Pants

Don’t bring a light belayer, as you might end up on the ground! Steep and gymnastic

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

27 Sport 10m

1.4.2. Arrivals (Lower) 40 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295987, -33.535299

Approach:

At the base of the descent rungs, same side of the creek. Climbs listed from right to left (facing cliff) as you head left from the rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Jingle Bells

At the base of the descent rungs. Can't miss this one.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2009

21 Sport 15m
2 Caught in the ..

Just left of Jingle Bells. A few thin moves once you get past half way.

FA: megan turnbull, 2015

25 Sport 12m
3 * GoGo Juice

Shared 1st bolt with TT then straight up the oranage wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

24 Sport 15m
4 Train Travel

Start at tree, then left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 16m
5 ** Ten No Trumps

Head left and up. Hard move at 4th bolt. Then nice big moves to top.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007

24 Sport 16m, 7
6 Bell End

Right of the leaning left facing corner. This is the harder right hand start. Sandy and Snappy !

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2009

24 Sport 15m
7 Bell End Direct

Nicer and easier start to BE

FA: Dr Chris, 2009

22 Sport 16m
8 ** The Un~Bell Leaveable Trad Corner Crack

The obvious trad corner crack (a few metres left of Bell End in case you miss it).

Up corner to below roof, build a nest of small gear then head right to arête, around it and up to ledge. Gear here us not the best but up and over to the left is better. Up to below next rooflet then right and up to anchors.

Cams, C3's, wires.

FA: @macciza

Trad Project 17m
9 * Hop, Skip, Slump

Big span needed on this one...

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2007

28 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Wet Paint

The first route at Bell Supercrag! Up the open corner for 2 bolts then head rightish. Reachy and committing moves. Classic.

FA: Lloyd, 2006

24 Sport 16m, 6
11 * Three Hour Commute

Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 17m, 7
12 * Three Hour Commute Direct

Start just left of WP. Up the thin steepnees and then join into THC for last easy moves to the top

FFA: Steve G, 2014

26 Sport 17m
13 ** Snappy Dresser

Start up the flake, and up to tricky headwall. Good !!

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

24 Sport 15m
14 Bronze Bell

Start as per SD. Pull on to wall and tricky traverse left under the roof (long draws help), turn the lip and on to the face. Follow the seam, then easy flake and jugs to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

23 Sport 18m, 9
15 Lovable Rogue

Not an obvious (or lovable) start. Hard moves through the roof, with a second tricky bit right before the anchor.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

26 Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Paddle Steamer

Yet another roof climb from the house of Wishart. Hard climbing through the roof to the right of the tree rewards you with a somewhat relaxing paddle up the short headwall

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

25 Sport 13m
17 *** Paint God

Through thuggy roof and onto the wall. Move hard right (don't continue up the arete) and continue up the nice pumpy wall.

25 Sport 20m
18 Games without Frontiers

FFA: @lloydstar, 2006

26 Sport 15m, 8
19 *** Autophagocytosis

A great and sustained linkup with consistent grade 25 climbing, making it a soft tick. Start up the first 3 bolts of Paint God, clip a new 4th bolt and do a hardish move to join Games Without Frontiers just in time for its crux. Then step left and finish up Apple Pie.

FFA: 2007

27 Sport 20m
20 Apple Pie

Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse.

28 Sport 22m
21 ** Caramel Sluice

Starts as for Cavity Search then head right at the first roof. Nice upper wall.

26 Sport 22m
22 *** Cavity Search

Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs.

26 Sport 20m
23 * Beresford

Hardish

25 Sport 17m, 8
24 Dirty 30

Steep long boulder start to a hanging slab and some easier climbing to a ledge. Sweet, interesting moves from the half ledge to the top. Bolted on my 30th birthday.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

25 Sport 15m
25 Boysenberry Ripple

Hard start into crack and then continue to move diagonally up tending rightwards.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007

23 Sport
26 Thunderbolts and Lightning

Steep, with a hard start and exciting finish. Start up CZ for a few moves, then head right and up. At third bolt, step into the corner and continue up the face following bolts, using the corner as necessary.

Set by @robmedlicott, 2015

FA: @robmedlicott, 2015

24 Sport 15m, 6
27 ** Crumple Zone

Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

26 Sport 8m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 * Insidious

Stick clip high first bolt then jump to the good start hold, pull up into the left of the creepy roof eyes and reach through the roof boulder.

Good holds in odd spots finish off this punchy little number

Set by @benjenga, 2015

FA: @benjenga, 2015

24 Sport 12m, 7
29 ** Ms.G's Cheeseburger Springroll

Start as for Does My Bum Look Big On This? then at the lip climb up and right via a hard pocket boulder on the stonker head wall. I promise that I didn't chip that pocket, 100% natural.

Set by @benjenga, 2015

FFA: @benjenga, 2015

27 Sport 15m, 8
30 *** Does My Bum Look Big On This?

Great route, with a hard leftwards traverse out the roof, then some of the best rock at bell for the slick headwall. Fixed draws in the roof make it an easy clean.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

26 Sport 12m, 6
31 Yes

Diabolical moves through the roof at the start, then easier climbing on great rock

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

28 Sport 12m
32 Truffle Shuffle

Bouldery fun start to a nice head wall climb.

Set by @wades, 2015

FA: @wades, 2015

23 Sport 15m, 12
33 Rocky Road

Right of 'Rhubarb Crumble'. Streno start

FA: @bundybear, 2015

22 Sport 15m
34 ** Rhubarb Crumble

Undercut start onto slightly overhanging wall past mantle trending left to anchors. Some prefer to stick clip the second bolt.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006

24 Sport 15m, 7
35 I Don't Climb I Wobble

Starts 1m L of Rhubarb Crumble. A couple of sharp holds down the bottom and a great reachy crux up top. Finish at RC anchors.

Set by @bundybear

FA: Ben Lane, 2012

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

FA: @pthomson, 2015

24 Sport 15m, 8
36 * Who the Fuck is Keith

This is a great little climb with some very cool holds, especially early on. Right of Jigger Jeff; solid start and interesting moves. Moves out right and up.

Set by @vionayoung, 2015

FA: @vionayoung,@wades,@bundybear, 2015

21 Sport 15m, 8
37 Jigger Jeff

Traverse rightwards on slab to ledge, hand traverse left then up steep jugs. A lot of people do the slab traverse and lower off the last ring on the slab, about 21

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006

23 Sport 17m, 10
38 * Jigger Jeff (to the ledge)

Up JJ to fixed biner on the lip of the ledge. (someone has stolen the biner)

21 Sport 14m
39 * Belayers Root

Tricky steep corner flakes with a great finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

19 Sport 14m
40 Cock Blocker

Left of Belayers Root with a couple of moves towards the top.

FA: @bundybear, 2015

21 Sport 15m

1.4.3. Departures (Upper) 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295903, -33.535302

Approach:

Walk right onto the ledge before the decent rungs. Harness up to traverse alone the ledge, and be careful not to kick rocks onto the climbers bellow.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Lofty Lungfish

Far end of ropes with triple belay. Up short wall then out the roof cracks to turn the lip and finish up steep prow. Backjump to clean.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27 Sport 16m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 The Gift

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

FA: Steve Grokivc

Set by Lloyd Wishard

29 Sport 16m, 11
3 * Brixton Jamm

Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot

Set by Jenga, 2014

Set by Jenga, 2014

FA: @benjenga, 2015

26 Sport 15m, 10
4 *** Radical Departures

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

Set by @lloydstar

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2013

30 Sport 20m, 9
5 For Flake's sake

The obvious flake feature in the middle of the wall. Same start as H.H. Some dubious rock down low then great moves from the mid height rest.

Set by Steve Grkovic

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

23 Sport 14m
6 * Hokonui Henchman

Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

28 Sport 18m, 17
7 Project Steve

The long term project of Steve, he's been actively trying the from time to time so you can imagine when it goes it will be the hardest route at Bell…?

Set by Steve Grkovic

Sport Project 22m, 12
8 #Ledge life

Tackle the hard and under-graded start as for Steve's project for 3 bolts, then head right and up. Ponder your position from the bird ledge then slab, yes slab moves up the sidepull flakes and victory jugs. A long draw at the base of the box roof helps the rope run.

Set by @benjenga, 2015

FFA: @benjenga, 2015

24 Sport 18m
9 ** Church Mouse

Mostly easy first half leads to a dyno out the lower roof (requires a long sling or 2), clip a hidden chain, then up the sustained second half with a difficult sequence in the upper roof. Best cleaned by reversing to the first anchor.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

31 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Grave Rat

Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

29 Sport 25m, 11
11 *** Spent Force

A good route with sustained and varied climbing. If you can find the cleaned holds, its not too scary heading up and then left to the anchor!

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2007

27 Sport 20m
12 ** Gushing Gargoyles

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

28 Sport 16m, 10
13 Feisty Phasmid

Weird move to get started, hard at top of wall, then the crux in the roof.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25 Sport 15m, 8
14 ** Destined for Grayness

Good climbing, add a grade if you crank past the anchors to jugs on the lip.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2009

23 Sport 12m, 5
15 Impatient Transport

Starts directly up from where the rope railing starts. Has a couple of thin moves and a hard clip.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2008

24 Sport 12m, 6
16 Freeway

Just left of FL starting at orange flake. Up flake, traverse left across break to stance - then up technical wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23 Sport 16m, 7
17 * Fridge Lifting

Funky orange radness for 3 bolts to rest, then easier pumpy jugs to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

24 Sport 14m, 7
18 Welcome Alex

The first two bolts of this route have been removed, do FL instead. Or a long stick clip to the third bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23 Top rope 14m, 7

1.4.4. The Blowhole 24 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.294982, -33.536284

Description:

About 50m around the corner from the last climb on Arrivals Lower.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Routes listed R to L.

1 ** Blowtorch

Short roof to start the swing up to the wall on slopey jugs, varied climbing with a committing move up high.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

24 Sport 18m, 10
2 Whistle Blower

Start at juggy prow and up wall to ledge then try to find the crux holds in time.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

23 Sport 18m, 11
3 * Thar She Blows

A surprisingly long section of steep and juggy climbing that is fairly rough on the skin - but this might allow you to still hold on when totally pumped!

FA: Lloyd, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

24 Sport 14m, 7
4 ** Body Blow

In the middle of crag. Up wall and out the roof on flakes etc before heading rightwards to finish. A long draw is recommended for the 5th bolt.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

24 Sport 12m, 6
5 linkup project

project starting up body blow and finishing up pelorus jack

Set by @lloydstar, 22nd Mar

Sport Project
6 * Pelorus Jack

climb straight into frustrating roof boulder problem then head leftwards towards another hard move before exiting to anchors

Set by @lloydstar

FA: Chris Simpson, 2nd Apr

29 Sport 12m, 8
7 open project

Alternate start to Pelorus Jack. starts in corner on small holds for 2 rings then joins P.J.

Set by lloyd wishart

Sport
8 ** Holelipstick Hippy

Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

25 Sport 16m
9 * Blowpipe Blast

24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors.

FFA: @lloydstar, 2013

28 Sport 14m, 9
10 * Bloated Blowfish

Technical hard start leads to a rest, then an even harder crux and steep finish.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27 Sport 14m, 9
11 *** Up.

Action packed new route up the arete right of blow. Big start move then hold on through some steep moves to a ledge. Hard face moves follow then great jugs to the top. If the first move is to big then start up Blow and traverse across.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

24 Sport 18m
12 ** Blow

Popular, with a hard start that is either dynoed out right, or tackled via small holds on the left. Second half finishes up a short section of attractive rock on good holds.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 10m, 7
13 * Blow Over

The Blow extension. From the anchors of Blow - continue up and leftwards to lower off at the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2015

22 Sport 20m
14 Kiama

Start left of tree. Straight up till it gets easy then rightwards to shared lower off with BO. Stay left of the bolts for 22

FA: Jason Lammers, 2015

22 Sport 20m

The following section has some really good easier graded routes. Stays in the shade here till just after lunch. Lots of bolts and convenience are the name of the game here!

15 * Perkins Paste

Bit of a thin move about 1/3 of the way up

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2013

21 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Araldite

Tricky start and exciting finish, there is a hidden bolt before the last move.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2014

20 Sport 20m
17 * Aquadhere

The lower section has some cool pockety holds.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

17 Sport 15m
18 * Aquadhere - Extended

The second last bolt on Araldite is next to the anchors on this one so you might as well keep going to the top of the cliff and clip another (hidden) bolt on the way and lower off Araldite.

19 Sport 20m
19 Kwik Grip

Pleasant climbing with a slightly steeper section above the little roof.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

16 Sport 15m
20 * Blow Me

Right of ferny crack; mostly straightforward with plenty of holds and a little move three quarters of the way up.

Set by Viona Young,@wades, 2015

FA: @vionayoung,@bundybear,@wades, 2015

16 Sport 16m
21 Clag

The right side of the juggy orange streak.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2014

FA: 2014

15 Sport 15m
22 * Blow Dry

The left side of the juggy orange streak.

Set by @bundybear

FA: @bundybear,@vionayoung,@wades, 2015

16 Sport 15m
23 Louie Gets The Blow

A couple of moves to get started. Right of BF.

FA: @bundybear, 2015

17 Sport 14m, 5
24 Blow Fly

The furthest left climb at The Blowhole. Tricky start with a nice flake up high.

FA: @wades, 2015

18 Sport 15m, 8

1.4.5. Fox Hole 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.293822, -33.535761

Approach:

The furthest wall on shady side. About 40m past The Blowhole.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Routes listed R to L.

1 * Just Peachy

Steep start then some reachy sustained moves with an open book corner to reward the effort.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

24 Sport 15m
2 ** Mango Chutney

A few metres R of Plumtastic. Great route with a mix of difficulties. Up the wall with some welcome rests to the mini cave then try to finish. Quite engaging!

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

23 Sport 16m
3 ** Plumtastic

Another steep start. Enjoyable moves the whole way, finishing on the fairly obvious overhung prow.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

22 Sport 16m
4 * The Apricot Slot

The L-most route on the sector. Start steeply for a few bolts, then trend rightwards to the crux. Finishes just left of the upper prow the Plumtastic finishes on.

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

24 Sport 14m, 9

1.4.6. Duck Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.297240, -33.532360

Approach:

Cross the creek as for Sunny Side, but turn left and walk 50m round the corner to this crag. Take care at the left end, e.g. clip the belayer in, the belay ledge gets quite narrow with a fair drop below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Darkwing Duck

The far left hand edge of the cliff. Essentially a one sequence wonder with a tricky V4/V5 boulder problem crux in the middle. Clip the first bolt on "How Much is a Duck Worth" then move left and follow the line of bolts with increasing difficulty to the anchors.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FA: Gene Gill, 2013

25 Sport 15m, 8
2 How Much Is A Duck Worth

Scarily loose, should probably finish under the roof.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

17 Sport 15m
3 Rabbit Season, Duck Season

Another nice warm up for Duck Wall.

Set 2015

FA: @vionayoung, 2015

16 Sport 12m, 7
4 Cygnet

Links Gosling into HMiaDW via the obvious leftward continuation and a few interesting moves in the middle. Climbs well.

FA: LinkUp - Paul Thomson, Jason Lammers, 2013

19 Sport 18m
5 Gosling

Left of 'Duckling'

FA: Jason Lammers and Paul Thomson, 2013

18 Sport 12m, 4
6 Duckling

Direct line, right of Gosling.

FA: Jason Lammers and Paul Thomson, 2013

Set by @bundybear,@wades, 2016

20 Sport 12m, 4
7 * Duck Tits

Left of Out For A Duck. Nice wall climbing with a fun juggy finish.

FA: Jason Lammers and Tara Mylan, 2016

21 Sport 16m
8 Out For A Duck

Nice face to steeper hard glued up finish.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

23 Sport 15m
9 * Barbara Streisand

Start just left of Pluck a Duck. Bouldery start then wanders right and left. Finishes on the white bulge after the first roof.

FA: @wades,Leah Zerbes, 2015

Set by @wades, 2015

22 Sport 15m, 9
10 *** Pluck-a-Duck

Superb wall and steep headwall, the last mantle move could be a heart breaker. One of the best 24's at Bell !!

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2011

24 Sport 15m, 10
11 *** Duck Walk

Sustained and thin technical climbing, one of the best 26's at bell. This route is the full package and should be on your too do list.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

26 Sport 18m
12 ** Quack Attack

The crimpy thin test piece of duck wall, wait for a cool day to try this one. Used to be 28 and is harder if you're short.

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

27 Sport 15m
13 * Scrooge McDuck

Start up Daffy (22) until back on the jugs after the thin leftward traverse crux, then follow line of bolts immediately leftwards through steepness and with increasing difficulty, finish back right with a tricky move on the headwall.

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2013

23 Sport 25m
14 ** Daffy

Keeps going above the ledge up the little headwall. Good sustained climbing and steeper then it looks.

FA: Ben Lane, 2012

22 Sport 20m
15 Pekin Duck

Links the start of Daffy just before the crux into the top of Lucky Duck via the corner ramp. No extra bolts so expect to hold on tight.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2014

20 Sport
16 * Lucky Duck

The obvious seam to steepness. A few different ways to do the crux, directly up the seam is the 22 version.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

22 Sport 15m, 7

1.4.7. Sunnyside 22 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.297011, -33.535119

Description:

The main wall you see as you walk in also one of the most popular walls at Bell, perfect for a sunny winter day or summer morning.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Steve's New route

Steve G's new rig. Starts just left of Seamstress then a big leftward swing and finish up easier head wall. Thin and technical.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2015

28 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Seamstress-Less

As for Seamstress to the ledge and through its crux then out left via pockets and crimps..

Good fun if your bored of Seamstress.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2015

22 Sport 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 *** Seamstress

The first climb on the Sunnyside and one of the best. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning, shallow corner.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

22 Sport 22m, 10
4 ** Seamstress Direct

Boulder up the steep seam on gastons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 Seamstress. Has been upgraded to 27 on 8a.nu, you be the judge..

Set by @benjenga

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011

26 Sport 20m
5 * An Angel Walks By

Up the short crack, then pumpy slopers to a couple of moves over the roof. Longer than you might think - be sure to take enough draws.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

23 Sport 23m, 13
6 Another new route.

Start up Searching For The Light for the first 4/5 bolts then go direct for a quick boulder. Continue above the mini ledge to a new anchor.

24 Sport
7 ** Searching for the Light

This line provides a popular jug haul through scoops and now has a completely new finish... Now instead to going back right continue straight up to a new high anchor.. May be nicer the just break right to the higher of the 24's anchors.

Its all a little confusing up there at the moment..

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

23 Sport 24m, 14
8 * Searching for the Light Extension

The second half is also very worthwhile, with an intriguing crimpy sequence requiring good footwork,followed by a small rooflet

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

26 Sport 30m, 14
9 ** Troc de l’Ile

Climbs to the half-way ledge via some huge pockets and a couple of not so huge crimps. Can be used as an alternative start to Searching for the Light Extension

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

24 Sport 15m, 7
10 When the Spirits are Calling

Much more difficult than it looks, with unexpected and unusual moves. The rock is a bit crunchy.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

21 Sport 15m, 8
11 ** The Dreaming Void

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof. Pumpy as!

25 Sport 29m, 12
12 ** Parallax Error

Stick clip first and perhaps the second bolt as well, A couple tricky clips.

Boulder out the hard start then a couple of big moves lead you up to the crux through bulge and up onto the face to join onto The Dreaming Void. Long and fun.

FFA: Thom Samuels, 2012

27 Sport 30m, 12
13 A Rover in Time

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

24 Sport 15m, 10
14 * A Rover in Time Extension

A satisfying line that goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Desperate 27 if you’re short, but more like 25 if you’re tall, so we’ve given it 26 as an average.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

26 Sport 30m, 16
15 *** House of Suns

An easy start provides access to the magnificent second half. Move slightly left at the last bolt before finishing directly up to the anchors. The upper half looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

30 Sport 25m, 11
16 *** The Reality Dysfunction

Ultra classic. Mostly superb jugs to a rest just before the redpoint crux right at the end. Take a ticket!

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

25 Sport 20m, 12
17 *** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup

This great linkup provides an easier approach to the high inviting corner/arete of La Realite N’Existe Pas. Pumpy for the grade.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

26 Sport 20m, 11
18 *** La Realite N’Existe Pas

The first route to be bolted on this section of wall. Heads left after the 4th bolt and then up to a bouldery crux on the lip of the roof to gain the high corner/arete.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

28 Sport 22m, 10
19 *** Event Horizon

Another ultra classic. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split by good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

Start up the first 4 bolts of LRNP and keep on heading up.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

27 Sport 22m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Quel Bordel

Interesting steep climbing with a bit of crap rock at the bottom. Shares the same first two bolts with YOTSB.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2013

24 Sport 20m, 11
21 Year of the Sun Bear

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

25 Sport 20m, 10
22 ** Accretion

The blunt arete at the far R of Sunnyside Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing.

A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there.

It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

21 Sport 35m, 15

1.4.8. Jean Jaurès Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.296690, -33.535818

Description:

Right of Sunnyside generally has easier, more vertical climbing and features a couple of long single pitch routes. It is not protected from the rain and is also very exposed to winds blowing up the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

There is a second set off lower offs at 20m for the next 2 routes. Make sure you rethread if you dont have a 70m rope.

1 ** Avenue Jean Jaures

All the way to the top with intimidating and hard moves off the ledge at 8m and again at the lip of the roof.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2010

23 Sport 35m
2 Little Dick Street

Long !!. Has 1st set of lower offs about 2/3s of the way - stop here unless you have a 70m rope.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

21 Sport 35m
3 * La Femme Flic

The best of the trio here. Bit easier than its neighbour

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2010

20 Sport 20m
4 Slip, Snap, Splash.

The climb name came about after a bit of an accident on the access waterfall. Climb the spaced U bolts to gain the slab and then climb the left hand line. Cruisy climb up this nice wall with a coupe tricky moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2012

18 Sport 30m, 15
5 Fly Fury

start as for slip snap splash for the first 3 bolts an then trend right and up an orange streak. long sling recommended on the 2nd bolt in traverse.

FA: Jay Trent, 2012

19 Sport 30m

1.4.9. Treble Clef 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.296732, -33.536659

Description:

Features several very worthwhile climbs that are either short, or longer but broken up into short sections separated by good rests.

Approach:

Reached by walking 5 minutes further along the track that passes under the base of Jean Jaurès Wall. When you get to the end of the rock platform, head up the slabs, then follow the track across the normally dry stream and up the slope, where you will arrive at the right end of the main Treble Clef wall (under Little Black Duress). Morning shade.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yo Ho Sebastian!

Long juggy climb with overhung start. Start left of waterfall, about 20m left of the main Treble Clef all. Take lots of quickdraws - maybe 12+.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2012

20 Sport 30m
2 * Bob's Your Uncle

Short left facing corner on left end of wall. Lovely rock.

FFA: Martin Pircher, 2011

21 Sport 12m
3 * Trawling for trilobytes

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

27 Sport 20m
4 project

Set by lloyd wishart

Sport Project
5 * Tri as you might

middle of the wall. hardest near the start but keeps coming.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

25 Sport 18m
6 ** Tryptych

3 parts to this climb to test the all rounder

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

26 Sport 18m
7 ** Waterfool

right end of crag on the orange rock

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

28 Sport 15m
8 ** Little Black Duress

on the black rock with 3 boulder problems.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

27 Sport 10m
9 ** Jelly Belly

start 10m right of L.B.D. Up the wall and flake feature to crux dyno. This used to be grade 21 but a key hold snapped off the end so now it's harder.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

22 Sport 15m
10 * Bellicose Nose

do the direct start (or not) and then up the blunt arete

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

26 Sport 15m
11 * Hell's bells

middle of wall past the arête (B.N.)

Set by lloyd wishart

FA: 2015

26 Sport 14m, 8

1.4.10. The Devils Circus 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.295930, -33.537242

Description:

A cave that has some great steep climbing, with a couple of less steep routes on the left. An excellent destination in its own right, in particular for the 27 Mr Redeemer, an absolute must do!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 PHM3

Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

24 Sport 10m, 6
2 Name Pending...

Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade.

FFA: Megan Turnbull.

Set by Megan Turnbull.

28 Sport
3 New Climb??

A new line that finishes as for circle of doom, no details known??

26 Sport
4 ** Circle of Doom

Awesome climb of mixed styles.Can seep after long periods of rain.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2009

26 Sport 15m, 8
5 ** The Dark Hour of Reason

R of COD. A sustained and crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Soft tick at the grade but good climbing.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2009

27 Sport 15m, 8
6 * Cavern Fever

Right of TDHOR. Hard start if you are short but nice after that. Grade 26 if you are tall?

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

27 Sport 18m
7 Gods Forgotten Brother

Unfortunately a very difficult start has to be contended with before you can enjoy the fun and sustained climbing through the roof and up the attractive headwall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

28 Sport 20m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Perch, Search and Lurch

Starts from the stone pyramid at the back of the cave. Generally steep and pumpy climbing, but with a very hard sequence off the halfway ledge, aptly named.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

28 Sport 18m, 11
9 Fast Forward the Future

Shares the same first bolt as Perch, Search, Lurch, then right to underclings in the ceiling and a crux sequence that has repelled many. Great steep climbing to the anchors. May be an easy tick if you are adept at toe-hooks or unusually tall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

31 Sport 17m, 8
10 Victim of Imagination

The direct start to FFTF. The twin underclings in the roof look V11...

Set by Steve Grkovic

Sport Project 17m, 8
11 *** Mr Redeemer

Steep and ultra sustained roof climbing with long moves. One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

27 Sport 18m, 10
12 Epsilon Asylum

Find a long stick, then tackle the hard start, keeping something back for the crux on the headwall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

27 Sport 18m, 10
13 ** Zodiac Youth

Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground).

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

29 Sport 18m
14 *** Space Between Atoms

A popular and sustained climb with good moves. Twin side pulls in the top half.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

30 Sport 16m, 8
15 ** La Nina

A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

29 Sport 15m, 7
16 * Justifiable Actions

Short, with a bouldery mid-height crux and potential to fall off the finish.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

26 Sport 10m, 6
17 ** Random and Unusual Fusion

Shares the same anchor as JA. A sustained and fun route: yes, you can get pumped in just 10m!

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

26 Sport 12m, 6

1.4.11. The Outpost 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.293642, -33.537235

Description:

The furthest wall on Sunnyside.

Approach:

About 10 min walk from Sunnyside proper - stay high and follow the cliffline.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Pouty Mouth

start as for S.W.C. and trend left and up through steepness on jugs. Or walk to ledge and start at 2nd bolt

FA: lloyd wishart, 2015

24 Sport 15m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Snout with Clout

A steep and pumpy climb that is better than it looks, although it might need a brush in places after rain. The finish can be a little intimidating the first time.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

24 Sport 18m, 9
3 * Spouting Outing

Shared Start. Hard move at the 2nd bolt leads to a nice mid height crux on good rock, then join Snout With Clout at its last bolt.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

27 Sport 15m, 8
4 ** Krout Kream

Shared start. If you are cursed with damp and clammy skin, either use the secret German potion (Antihydral cream) or wait for a cold day to tackle a steep first half that leads to a thin crux on the headwall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

30 Sport 15m, 8
5 *** Code Brown

In public service parlance, an ‘outside emergency’. Shared start then low and right before heading up the steepness. Steep and sustained on generally good holds. To avoid drag, clip the rightmost of the 3 third bolts.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

29 Sport 18m, 8
6 * Grouted Trout

A long way R of the previous routes on orange slabby wall. Thin and difficult first half with a hard clip, then a pleasant slab.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

23 Sport 18m, 8
7 * Crouton Ragout

Right side of the slabby wall. A hard move at the start, then a sustained top half

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

23 Sport 20m, 8

1.5. Marrangaroo Creek 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mangamoo Cow 18 Unknown 20m
2 Cold Klip 18 Unknown 19m
3 Echoes From The Gheckos 19 Unknown 15m
4 Sheet Metal Man 21 Unknown 25m
5 Satanic Aerobis 20 Unknown 25m
6 Greystoke 21 Unknown 25m
7 Ghecko Crack 19 Unknown 25m
8 Volley World 19 Unknown 25m
9 Blunt End Blunders 21 Unknown 25m
10 Ghecko Junkies 18 Unknown 20m
11 Friends of Enemies 17 Unknown 15m
12 The Echo's Baby 15 Unknown 20m
13 Frozen Water 17 Unknown 20m

1.6. The Colliery 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.209004, -33.510877

Unique Features And Strengths:

An undeveloped "Mount York", with similar rock and features awaiting bolting and trailblazing, some genuinely good established trad lines as well as a few unclimbed lines awaiting first ascents.

Description:

Best described as an "undeveloped Mount York", with similar rock and features, and clifflines broken up into distinguishable areas separated by access gullies. At present there are 4 genuinely great trad-line that make the trip worthwhile for a trad enthusiast alone. Most of the prominent trad lines have been climbed (though a few remain), but the many clean slabs and faces are awaiting bolting and first-ascents by anyone who sees the area worthy of development, and doesn't mind the extra distance to travel.

Approach:

Take the Bells Line of Road towards Lithgow.

Drive through Clarence, passing the Zig Zag station on your right.1km after Zig Zag station, the road takes a big sweeping left bend.

At the end of this bend, turn left into an obvious cleared dirt area, marked by a sign saying: "Zig-Zag Tunnels 9/10 Site Office Access". Continue along dirt road (ignoring first locked-gate turn off to the left), and at approx 700m turn left onto dirt-road.

This road gets progressively worse, with 4WD capability needed to reach the very end. Park wherever you become concerned for your cars clearance, and continue on foot. At 1800m ignore adjacent trig point (Uncle Toms car park) and continue straight ahead.

75m before the track comes to a dead end (marked by camprire site and fallen tree), take the faint track on the right marked by a cairn. At about 80m, the track curves around L. 4WDs should park here.

Branch off this into light bushland heading West. You are now aiming for a gully and constriction which is reached within 3 min.

This is the "Access Gully Area" of Colliery Crag.

About 75m down and to the left (South) is the obvious steep crack FIFO Hooker, which marks the start of the South Cliffs Area. This area stretches on for a few hundred metres.

About 80m to the right (North) is the first of the North Cliff climbs: Abnormal Coal Seam Morphology. This area stretches on for about 300m.

Further in the distance, where the cliffline begins to head west, is where the Far Northern Cliffs resides. This can be seen from the base of Climbing Boom. From here you get a great view of Gina Climb-hard in its entirety; it takes 15min extra walking to reach this climb and the others there.

You know you've reached the right area when you pass a large boulder sitting in a gully with a prominent grey "fin" of rock: The Shark's Fin. As you head west, look up to spot Coal Seam Crack.

NOTE: A larger Access Map is included in PHOTOS under this crag.

History:

Rediscovered by "No-Chalk" Rob Burton in 2012. Has clearly been investigated previously (a number of cairns were discovered beneath specific lines, a few metres back from the cliff) but no details of ascents has ever been published.

1.6.1. Access Gully Area 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.208392, -33.512734

Description:

The narrow gully constriction you pass through when approaching the The Colliery.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 In The Pits / Rob's Funk Chimney

The obvious chimney/corner on the left as you enter the constricted section of the Access Gully.

Climb the chimney/corner.

Walk off via Access Gully to the left (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

13 Trad 15m
2 Half-Thumb Hero

Start on right at the end of the Access Gully Constriction. Around bulges using flakes and crack to the left as necessary (avoid going off-route to the crack proper for the full tick), move right under roof and up into easy squeeze chimney to top-out. 5 Bolts + Anchors.

FA: P. Thomson, 2012

18 Sport 12m
3 Graveyard Shift / Rob's Diagonal Off-Width

As you emerge from the access gully constriction, there is a south facing cliff on the right.

Climb the leftward-leaning off-width (with good face holds) until it thins, then climb the thin crack and headwall above.

Walk off with through scrub via the access gully to the right (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

16 Trad 30m

1.6.2. North Cliffs 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.209150, -33.510539

Description:

The cliffs North of the Access Gully to The Colliery. Commencing approximately 80m past the Access Gully Area (to the right/North) with Abnormal Coal Seam Morphology (wafer thin flake to off-width).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abnormal Coal Seam Morphology / Paul's Weird Crack

80m right of Access Gully constriction.

Thin flake to hand crack, past detached block and some choss to bulge, left and out under bulge, then up easy corner to top.

Walk off via Gully to the left (facing in).

May have been climbed previously.

FA: Paul Thomson (L), Rob Burton (S), 2012

16 Trad 25m
2 Mine Shaft / Rob's Off-Width

10m up and left of Abnormal Coal Seam Morphology.

Climb obvious off-width/squeeze chimney to ledge, then head up shallow corner on the right to top (avoiding iron-stone plates).

Take big gear.

Walk off via Gully to the left (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

14 Trad 22m
3 * Climbing Boom / Rob and Paul's Funky Multipitch

100m further left from mine shaft

  1. (15) - Up easy hand-crack to belay at back of cave.

  2. (18) - Up slab to arrange protection in roof crack. From there either (a) Downclimb and step around arete, then up delicately; or (b) stay high and traverse under the roof crack. Whatever route you take, it leads to a hard move past flake to footledge. Then traverse right to corner, and up easy corner to top.

Walk off via Gully to the right (facing in).

FA: Paul Thomson (P1), Rob Burton (P2), 2012

18 Trad 55m 2

1.6.3. South Cliffs 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.209186, -33.514451

Description:

The cliffs South of the Access Gully to the Colliery. Commencing approximately 75m past the Access Gully Area (to the South/Left) at the obvious steep crack FIFO Hooker, and continuing for a few hundred metres.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** FIFO Hooker / Rob's Supercrack

75m down and left from the access gully constriction.

Long, steep, technical crack.

Small roof crack to leads to technical corner, and steep chimneying into a roof, before finishing with a nice hand/fist headwall.

Walk off the top via the Access Gully to the left (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Alex Bergmann (S), 2012

19 Trad 35m
2 Sooty Shaft / Rob's Pillar and Headwall

10m right of FIFO Hooker. Obvious offwidth corner up a detached pillar. From the top of the pillar continue directly up the headwall to the top.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in), and downclimb a few metres.

Take big gear. (Warning: Pro directly after the pillar is sparse, and big boulder on top of pillar rocks if you stand on it). You can belay on top of the pillar, and walk off the back of it if you wish.

May have been climbed previously.

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

16 Trad 40m
3 Brave Canary / Rob's Easy Corner

Easy corner ramble on good rock up crack, past bulge, and continuing up corner crack to the top. Walk off via gully to the right (facing in).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Paul Thomson (S), 2012

14 Trad 20m
4 Pneumoconiosis Aspirations / Paul's Deadly Face Climb

Start 5m right of Brave Canary in front of dead tree. Boulder up to ledge, move slightly left and climb face to break and gear. Then continue up and slightly right to top of main wall. Hand-traverse right to arete rather than climbing detached block above headwall. CAUTION: Falls much above the one good break would be serious. So named because contracting Pneumoconiosis is probably safer than this climb.

FA: Paul Thomson (L), Rob Burton (S), 2012

17 Trad 20m

1.6.4. Far North Cliffs 6 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.209186, -33.507972

Description:

The Cliffs at the Northermost end of the crag. Visible from the climbs at the North Cliffs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * COALgate Smile / Rob's Malevolent Roof and Corner

About 500m left from Climbing boom.

Start underneath small roof crack and corner, right of Coal Seam Crack. Crack to stance beneath fingercrack roof. Undercling roof to gain corner, then up corner to the top, with a vegetated topout.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in).

So named because Rob chipped his tooth whilst abseiling through the jungle trees shortly after the ascent.

FA: Rob Burton (L), Alex Bergmann (S), 2012

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2013

20 Trad 30m
2 ** Coal Seam Crack / Rob's Mega-Offwidth Roof

20m left of COALgate smile, the obvious R facing corner with a super exposed off-width roof.

  1. 20m climb corner to stance beneath roof. Some dodey rock but pro is reasonable.

  2. 20m Aid through roof and crack above, and free up small offwidth section.

Rap off as for (COALgate smile).

FA: Rob Burton (L), Jonas (S), 2012

19 M2 Trad 40m 2
3 ** Gina Climb-hard / Rob's Mega Fingercrack Roof

20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. A real classic.

  1. 15m (18) - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

  2. 30m (17) - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag, you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2.

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile

FA: Rob Burton, Morgan Huxley, (alt leads), 2012

18 Trad 45m 2
1.6.4.1. The Shark's Fin 3 routes in Feature
Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A prominent free standing fin of rock, right in the corner where the North Cliffs end, and the Far North Cliffs begin. Approximately 35m high at its highest face (and 12m high at its lowest). A fixed rope has been left in-place on the back (lowest) point of the Fin, to allow easy access to the anchors at its summit.

Approach:

Approximately 20min walk from the Access Gully (with gear). Walk as if you were going to the Far North Cliffs, and you will walk right past the Shark's Fin (on your left).

1.7. Uncle Tom's 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.204775, -33.504190

Unique Features And Strengths:

Apparently quality rock with potential, but probably on private land. The map location is approximate. May be The Colliery?

Last written up in the '99 guide Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains

Access Issues:

Probably private land

Approach:

Take the Bells Line of Road towards Lithgow.

Drive through Clarence, passing the Zig Zag station on your right.1km after Zig Zag station, the road takes a big sweeping left bend.

At the end of this bend, turn left into an obvious cleared dirt area, marked by a sign saying: "Zig-Zag Tunnels 9/10 Site Office Access". Continue along dirt road (ignoring first locked-gate turn off to the left), and at approx 700m turn left onto dirt-road.

This road gets progressively worse, with 4WD capability needed to reach the very end. Park wherever you become concerned for your cars clearance, and continue on foot. Else park at the trig at 1800m.

Walk 100 m south-west along the right fork to broken tree, slightly right for 50m to faint road. Pass anthill and walk 300m to cairn.

Turn right off track and go down ridgetop towards cliff. On the right of a big gully and directly above colliery is a prominent outcrop with a cairn. Go left below the outcrop and down slightly left ro a lower outcrop. Briefly right into a dirt gully and down left to VAP.

Don't go down the large gully

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Updraught

30m from the carpark - arete on the right wall, tending right to a vegetated ledge

12 Unknown 26m

The following climbs are left of the access track. Those near Steve Moon Memorial Chimney may be better accessed from the colliery road

2 Steve Moon Memorial Chimney

Left of a small gully. A dark chimney to the left or an orange wall

FA: L. Closs, T. Williams

11 Unknown 26m
3 Flaps in Your Face

P1: 21m - start 50m from SSMC at an alcove. Up grey flakes to the roof, over on the right then up crack to belay on ledge.

P2: 39m - straight up or veer slightly left.

FA: T. Williams,L. Closs, R.Wells

15 Unknown 60m 2
4 The Boys Own Slab

Start 30m right of a corner at a scrubby slab

P1: 30m - up 3m onto ledge, traverse right and up, left to a dead tree and belay

P2: 30m - up left, then up to belay just right of the scrubby corner

P3: 16m - Continue up

14 Unknown 76m 3
5 Un-named Corner

Up corner with stepped roofs near the big gully

FA: M.Law

22 Unknown
6 Dreadger

Start: crack above ledge 60m right of gully

P1- traverse steep wall to ledge

P2- Get onto roof, use poor locks to the lip, up and layback the crack to the cave.

Go left to descend.

FA: L. Closs, T. Williams

21 Unknown 33m 2
7 Dining With Grendel

Start - Groove and steep offwidth to the right of Dreadger

P1: 19, 23m - up groove and chimney to ledge

P2: 18, 20m - strenuous offwidth

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs

19 Unknown 43m 2
8 Deviatrix

Start at thin vegetated crack 20m right of DWG.

Solo 4m to ledge, left around first overhang. 12m left to corner to tree.

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs

16 Unknown 33m
9 Imperatrix

Start up Deviatrix

P1: 30m - as for D, traverse past corner and around the nose

P2: 10m - up corner

FA: L.Closs, T.Williams

15 Unknown 40m
10 Belligerence

Big offwidth right of scrubby corner. Thrash up to cave on right.

Rap off block to descend

FA: L. Closs, T.Williams

17 Unknown 26m
11 Bonza

Start on right of pillar. Up the steep corner, cross the nose and finish in cave for Belligerence

FA: L.Closs,J. Hibbard, T.Williams

15 Unknown
12 Fickle Finger of Flake

Chimney flake to the right of Bonza.

Finish up RFTE or rap

14 Unknown 20m
13 Reach for the Earth

Short square corner right of Fickle.

P1: 17, 17m - Up corner to tree

P2: 16, 26m - scramble up, through roof, chimney and corner

FA: T. Williams,L.Closs

17 Unknown 43m
14 Spurious

10m right of Reach for the Earth.

Around nose, veer L to nose and up

FA: L.Closs, T.Williams

15 Unknown 17m
15 Curious

Start 5m right of S, poorly protected

16 Unknown 17m
16 Un Named Crack

The left of two cracks on a grey wall

FA: B. Cameron, A.Teague

13 Unknown 18m
17 Furious

The right of two cracks on a grey wall

FA: L.Closs

15 Unknown 18m
18 Andrew Penney Memorial Chimney

70m right of Reach For the Earth at a chimney and crack on the left edge of the red Breakaway wall

FA: R.T. Williams (solo)

4 M1 Aid 10m
19 The Breakaway

Finger crack in red wall 80m right of Reach.

Up to ledge at 2/3 height, left 18m and up to a tree

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs

17 Unknown 43m

The following climbs are left of the access track

20 Valtz A Patrice

Leaning flake 100m right of The Breakaway. Into cave for pro, then downclimb and up outside or jam across the roof. Up crack, traverse right and up

FA: L.Closs, T. Williams

16 Unknown 20m
21 Sabre Rattle

Start 100m right of gully at steep butress.

P1: 14m - right edge of lower wall to a ledge

P2: 36m - up to bush runner, return and go left above roof to flakes. To cave, down and across to horizontal crack. Up then traverse into niche. left and up

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs

12 Unknown 50m 2
22 Madam Hatchet

Alternate second pitch for SR,

P2 - as for SR to flake and cave, up and L

FA: T. Williams, L. Closs

12 Unknown 40m
23 Avarice

10m right of MH, low angled corner

FA: L.Closs,A.Teague, T.Williams

14 Unknown 23m
24 The Thirteenth Hour

5m right of Avarice. Corner

FA: Teague, Bradstock

13 Unknown 23m
25 I Hate Cats

Juggy black wall

FA: W.Moon,B. Cameron

11 Unknown 23m
26 The Winged Wombat

10m right of Avarice, at scrubby crack.

P1: 16, 12m - chimney to roof, follow crack to lip and up to ledge.

P2: 14, 15m - easy up to the roof, up fin to jugs

FA: T. Williams

16 Unknown 27m 2
27 Aplomb

15 right of TWW, slab and corner to tree.

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs

15 Unknown 17m
28 Scintillating Company

10m right of Aplomb, chimney

FA: L.Closs(solo)

7 Unknown 17m
29 Clothed Lunch

8m left of IC. Scramble up to tree, then follow the curving crack. Diagonally left to tree.

FA: L.Closs, T.Williams

17 Unknown 23m
30 * IC

Start just left of the chimney. Red scoops protected by cams in a break out left then honeycomb to a single BB. Take care

18 Unknown 23m
31 Badger's Reminiscence

start at chimney right of sharp arete in the red wall.

Up chimney and roof. Follow crack to bush and dirt ramp

FA: T. Williams,R. Wells, L.Closs

16 Unknown 32m
32 A Way Up

3m right of Badgers, corner

FA: L.Closs (solo)

7 Unknown 20m
33 Cruel Immorality

8m right of BR, up crack to ledge then up the shallow corner. Originally done in two pitches

FA: L.Closs, T.Williams

17 Unknown 23m
34 Sprintime for Islam & Khomeni, Winter for Carter & Vance

Up chimney to cave, continue up wall above cave. Originally led as two pitches

FA: L.Closs, T.Williams

14 Unknown 20m
35 Tobin Sorenson Memorial Chimney

Chimney

FA: Solo

6 Unknown 20m
36 The Koran

Chimney

FA: R.Bradstock, A.Teague

6 Unknown 20m

The following routes are on a detached boulder

37 Silvertail

Northside of detatched boulder.

Slab, overlap and corner

FA: L.Closs, B. Maddison

13 Unknown
38 Duffel Plum

traverse right and up the arete

FA: Closs, Maddison

14 Unknown

The following routes are back on the main wall

39 Sewerside Wall

starts 7m right of the Koran at a tree

FA: T. Williams,L.Closs,A.Teague, R.Bradstock

11 Unknown 27m
40 Silly Things

right of SW at a faint crack

FA: B.Cameron

14 Unknown 27m
41 Blood of the Forests

scrubby crack on the right of the grey rippled wall

14 Unknown 27m
42 Dianne

Short crack on the North side

FA: L.Closs (solo)

6 Unknown
43 Jamming For Allah

Narrowing chimney crack on steep yellow wall facing the valley

FA: T. Williams

16 Unknown 17m
44 The Ayatollah's Revenge

FA: Williams,Closs,Teague, Bradstock

3 Unknown 18m
45 Me & My Mullah

Arete on right of the yellow wall

FA: T. Williams

9 Unknown 17m
46 Blue Turban Finish

Direct finish. To top of buttress

FA: J. Hibbard

5 Unknown
47 Meccano

Centre of grey wall

FA: L.Closs (solo)

9 Unknown
48 Dave Noble Memorial Climb

Short offwidth corner 50m right of M&MM

FA: T. Williams (solo)

9 Unknown 13m
49 Ross' Gory

Offwidth 75m right of Dave Noble

FA: Bradstock

12 Unknown 15m
50 Antigone

Chimney 60m right of Ross'

FA: Williams (solo)

9 Unknown 15m

1.8. Ida Ridge 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.186645, -33.470594

Approach:

From POW memorial carpark. 5 mins

Cross road, right and uphill 100m to cliff and lookout. Walk right when facing out to a tree and rap in, or find your way through the scrub to the overhangs.

Climbs are east of the lookout.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ferney Groove's Revenge

First big chimney crack east of the lookout. Finishes at tree on right

FA: W.Williams, 1992

8 Unknown 29m
2 The By-Pass

As for FGR to ledge on left then around the arete

FA: W.Williams, 1992

10 Unknown 20m
3 Some What Not What's Expected

Hard start up to corner left of TBP, then follow the corner and crack

FA: W.Williams, 1992

15 Unknown 30m
4 Take Your Mum

Arete left of Some What, route goes up just left of the arete with poor pro

FA: W. Williams, 1992

13 Unknown 25m
5 Flaw in the Wall

Thin crack right of TYM but before the gully. Follows a crack through bulges, wall before tending right.

FA: W.Williams, 1992

17 Unknown 25m
6 Mixed Pleasures of Earthly Delight

Start in dirty gully,

P1: To tree belay

P2: Up through cracks and blocks

FA: W.Williams, 1992

13 Unknown 45m 2
7 A Bolt From the Blue

Arete left of the dirty gully

P1: up the left of the arete through bulge and up

P2: scramble off or proceed up Mixed Pleasures

FA: W.Williams, 1992

16 Unknown 25m
8 The Old Fashioned Corner

The forth corner left of the lookout using the corner and left wall

12 Unknown 30m
9 Waltz Up the Wall

Arete right of the long wall. Up the wall just left of the arete

FA: W. Williams, 1992

10 Unknown 30m
10 Superannuants' Samba

scramble to start on the crack on right of the main wall

FA: K. Westren, 1992

13 Unknown 25m
11 * Stairway to Heaven

just left of SS. BR and PR

FA: W.Williams, 1992

18 Unknown 30m
12 The Dance Floor

Start as for SS

P1: 30m - traverse left on ledge to belay in Old foxes crack. Take care

P2: 40m - across to grassy ledge

P3: 20m - up

FA: W.Williams,Kwestren,K.Westren, 1992

13 Unknown 90m
13 The Old Foxes Trot

Up through the Sentry box in the middle of the wall, follow the crack until the end. Overhang on left

FA: W.Williams, 1992

17 Unknown 30m
14 A Step to the Left

Pedestal 1m left of Old Foxes,

P1: 25m - up to overhang

P2: 15m - past bolt and up left

FA: W.Williams, 1992

16 Unknown 40m

1.9. Cosmic County Area 442 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.237140, -33.492781

1.9.1. The Dam Cliffs 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250534, -33.484536

Description:© (boulderman)

A peculiar area, so named because of the abandoned dam.

Useful Info: This is a great free swimming hole - where the water is cold and deep. It is a popular option in summer when the heat gets too much (or if you want to cool off after climbing at a nearby crag).

Approach:© (boulderman)

Turn off is exactly 6.2km past the Darling Causeway (just before a bridge over the railway). Drive alongside the railway, taking the track to the left about 400m along. Follow the track paralleling the train tracks (fine for standard cars provided you use caution). Follow along for about one km until the track veers left away from the tracks. A few hundred metres down you find a large clearing, where most people park. The Crag is down the track to the right, down a steep track. It’s a relatively easy walk down. This is accessible by 4WD, but only recommended for experienced drivers and in a raised vehicle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bare Foot Bandits

FA: D O'Donnell, D McQueen, 2005

5 Unknown 15m
1.9.1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 150.249779, -33.482880

Description:

Deep Water Soloing on the 10m cliff in the middle of the Dam. Fairly juggy face climbing, and clean falls into the deep water.

Numerous different routes have been climbed here over the years, and there are a number of top-rope anchors above the cliff itself. No FA details known.

Approach:

From the parking area, walk down to the dam pool, and swim out to the main cliffline in the middle.

1.9.1.2. Aerobar Wall 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.250711, -33.483479

Description:

This is the small wall covered in lots of pocket holes, just like an Aerobar chocolate.

Approach:

The wall is located on the right, as you walk down the access track, just before the creek crossing. Opposite side of creek to 'Wet Feet'.

Descent Notes:

Perfect wall for beginners and kids. 3 top rope routes on this wall. Carrot bolt anchors at top. These are on your left when walking out to the top of B2's top anchors.

History:

Unknown history of who placed the anchors or did FA's? Happy to update details. Routes were cleaned in Sept. 2015.

1.9.1.3. Wet Feet Area 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250779, -33.483572

Description:

The Big Boulder on the other side of the creek as you first walk in.

1.9.1.4. Mossy Wall 9 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250555, -33.483641

Description:

Maybe it used to be mossy but it's pretty nice now with lots of traffic.

1.9.1.5. Steep Wall 16 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250524, -33.483923

Description:

Directly opposite Mossy Wall. A nice overhanging wall with awesome scoops similar but much better than Ladder of Gloom at Berowra

1.9.1.6. Creek Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250397, -33.483804

Description:

The boulder on the other side of the creek from Gulf War Wall

1.9.1.7. Gulf War Wall 13 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250264, -33.483854

Description:

The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.

1.9.1.8. Shady Alley 4 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250945, -33.483899

1.9.1.9. Canyon Wall 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.249738, -33.484162

Description:

A 15m high wall with vertical to overhanging routes.

Approach:

100m downstream of the ladders. Can also be accessed by following the creek downstream of Gulf War Wall.

1.9.1.10. Shark Tooth 1 route in Sector
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250838, -33.485876

Description:

Info as of 4/2016 - This is an old crag (pre-2001), with 2 old ring bolted routes, by yet unknown persons? More recently (2004-8?), 2 other routes have been bolted, by yet unknown persons? CAUTION - this crag has some very unstable rock in places and some unsafe ring bolts. Experienced climbers only should venture here, until some cleaning and re-bolting can be done.

Approach:

Access 1 - Most reliably found by thrashing down the creek from Dam Cliffs main climbing area, (as if you're going to do Dargan's Creek canyon) for about 400m. After a significant right hand bend in the creek, it's the shady south facing wall on your right, with a fairly good looking 20m high central arête and a west wall, with routes on both side. Access 2 - From the large top car park (at the railway line) drive as you would to Dam Cliffs for 20m, then take the 2nd (or 3rd) track on the right, as seen on the topo map. Drive out this track for 20m. This is the telephone line track. Stop at small turning bay, before track drops down the hill and gets rough. Then walk out till you see the west wall. Walk to the furthest east corner on top of the rock, where there is a fixed rap in rope. Clamber your way down and head back along the cliff line till you see the first line of bolts, just before the arete.

1.9.2. Railway Cliff 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.228011, -33.497622

Description:© (mjw)

Quite awesome really! Old style sport climbing on all sorts of innovative fixed pro. Shade in the summer. Freezing in the winter!!

Beware! The majority of bolts (and hangers) here are rusty and should be used with caution. The whole crag is in desperate need of anchor renewal - as it is at the present time, well it can just be plain scary!

Access Issues:© (mjw)

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

Approach:© (mjw)

Same as for Cosmic County. Scramble down the hill below Readers Wives (marked RW), cross the stream then head up the track to the left towards the cliff-line .

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Fish

A bit mossy, but interesting.

FA: L.McManus,M.Stacey, 1991

21 Sport 35m
2 * The Age of Steam

FA: C.Baxter,M.Law, V.Kondos, 1991

20 Sport 35m
3 *** I Must Go Down to the Sea Again

Great! Do all 3 pitches!

  1. 40m (25)

  2. 20m (20)

  3. 45m (22)

FA: M.Law,J.Holbrook, 1991

25 Sport 120m 3
4 ** The Five Forty Five

The major left leading line splitting the right side of the cliff. A well protected trad adventure - gear to #3 camalot.

  1. 25m (22) Up thrutchy crack to roof (BR), traverse right and up into left trending steep corner. Belay at small ledge.

  2. 17m (19) Keep following the steep left trending corner to hanging belay at rings. Well protected. You can rap from here (30m).

  3. 7m (15) Very short pitch straight up to shale ledge. Can be linked easily with pitch 2.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Moore, 1992

22 Mixed 75m 3, 1
5 *** Gumbo Akimbo

Great! Mikl was and IS a genius but clipping the rotating 'hanger' on the slab below the roof will require as much energy as it takes to do the climb!

FA: M.Law, 1992

25 Sport 45m
6 * Edward Chiselhands

Remember that these routes Do require anchor renewal may have been 'chipped' and may take some gear. But then they may not!

FA: M.Law, 1999

26 Sport 45m
7 * Cicatrix

Man, how good will this area be when someone invests a few thousand bucks into it!

FA: G.Bradbury, G.Moore, 1993

25 Sport 60m
8 ** Locomotion

FA: M.Law, 1992

26 Sport 45m
9 *** The Belles, The Belles

easiest and least mentally demanding route here.

FA: V.Kondos, 1992

21 Sport 45m
10 ** The Lithgow Flash

Start: Around the arete on the wall to the left of TB,TB.

FA: M.Law, 1992

24 Sport 40m
11 ** Traction Thrash

FA: M.Law, 1992

25 Sport 40m
12 * Suction Pump

Start: Use fixed rope - if it is still there! Or traverse in from TT.

FA: M.Law, 1992

26 Sport 45m 2
13 Complications

FA: G.Bradbury,M,Colyvan, 1982

22 M1 Aid 65m
14 * Bone China

Start: Route to the right of the arete.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 2000

24 Sport 40m
15 ** Porcelay Negra

FA: M.Law, 1982

23 Sport 40m
16 ** Tamish

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Bradbury, 1982

18 Sport 60m
17 * Verdigris

FA: G.Bradbury,M.Law, 1982

24 Sport 35m
18 Cold Comfort

FA: G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan, 1982

19 Sport 30m

1.9.3. Tunnel Cliff 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Access Issues:

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Feel the Pinch 27 Sport 12m
2 Shenanigans 28 Sport 15m
3 * Bust a Gut 22 Sport 15m
4 ** Skinful 25 Sport 18m
5 * Infundubulum 26 Sport 15m
6 Project (Mikl) project Unknown
7 * Terminator 24 Sport 15m

1.9.4. The Freezer 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.220647, -33.496756

Unique Features And Strengths:

A bit of a walk (40 mins) to get here but once you have arrived you will be treated with some very good early to mid grade 20's and some classic harder climbs over the log of death. Summer time gem.

Access Issues:

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Download the new access description and map here: http://bit.ly/1kBjUQJ

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Terra Incognita

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

19 Sport 18m
2 Absolute Zero

FA: L.McManus, 1994

19 Sport 23m
3 * Chris' Crack

Mmmm.

FA: C.Jewel, 1994

19 Trad 25m
4 The Optimist

Bit cranky down low then cruise to anchors

FA: Glenn Short

22 Sport 24m
5 * Storm Watch

FA: C.Van de Reyt, 1994

23 R Sport 25m
6 * Soul Sister

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

18 Sport 24m
7 * Old Blobby

The arete. Seems to be a thiefs paradise as all attempts to ensure that the lower off anchors are safe is thwarted by theft.

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

20 Sport 25m
8 *** Good Big Dog

Apparently a soft tick!

FA: S.Butler, 1992

24 Sport 22m
9 * Extension Lead

Burly start then cruisy

FA: M. Law

22 Sport 20m
10 * Rat$

FA: M.Law, 1992

24 Sport 20m
11 ** Unity (Rat$ Direct)

Up Rat$ till about 1/2 way, then head rightish up obvious feature, and up to anchors. Pretty Cool..

FA: Nate Bolton, 2009

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2009

24 Sport 25m
12 *** Cryogenics

A long crux sequence makes this stiff classic.

FA: M.Portman, 2000

23 Sport 25m
13 ** SWALK

Another crowd favorite. Has recently been rebolted.

FA: M.Law, 1992

22 Sport 25m
14 *** Meat Mallet

Start as for SWALK, then veer right.

FA: M.Stacey, 1993

24 Sport 25m
15 * Ice Cubed

Choss!

FA: V.Condos, 1994

23 Sport 25m
16 * Semantics

More Choss.

FA: J.Clark,J.Kurko,M.Wilson, 1994

24 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 ** Bulls Head

Apparently quite fun!

Take care lowering off. There is a clip and go bolt at the start of the traverse, make you clip your rope in to this on way back down.

* If you miss this you will lower off into thin air *

Rebolted 2015 - Rings all all the way with new lower off.

FA: V.Kondos, 1992

21 Sport 35m
18 ** Mad Cow Disease

Excellent !! Rebolted 2015.

FA: V.Kondos, 1995

22 Sport 22m
19 *** Hypoxic

The really hidden gem of the freezer. Very unique, engaging and sustained wall climb on stone that feels similar to granite.

FA: M.Stacey, 1993

23 Sport 25m
20 ** Easy Fit

FA: F.Yule, 1998

26 Sport 25m
21 ** Ha-Ha Wall

Hands on top, jump and lower off last bolt!

FA: M.Law, 2000

25 Sport 27m
22 ** Turrette's Fucking Syndrome

Hand on top, jump and lower off last ring. Looks much harder then the stated grade and has a suspect looking bolt.

FA: M.Law, 1996

25 Sport 25m
23 ** M

FA: M.Law, 1993

27 Sport 27m
24 * Doris'll Getcha!

Now with proper double bolt lower off.

FA: S.Butler, 1992

23 Sport 25m
25 Tom Tom Club

A bit choss in spots.

FA: V.Kondos, 2000

20 Sport 23m

These next two climbs are on the lower cliff line.

26 * It's Not Over Until the Fat Lady Slims

A hard start followed by low angle wall climbing. Start at short corner with bolts, up corner and Groove/wall above.

FA: J.Smoothy, G. Bradbury, T. Bretherton, 1994

24 Sport 25m
27 Spunknuns

Up the 'Arete' on Carrots

Start: 5m right of INOUTFLS

FA: M. Law, V. Kondos, 1995

25 Sport 25m

To access the rest of these climbs you must first cross the log of death, please harness up for this...

28 ** Here's Johnny

The diagonal crack left of the obvious Splitter Crack (Looking for Johnny), directly below the right end of the Log of Death. Rap from tree above Looking for Johnny 30m to ledge. Start up initial grove as for Looking for Johnny, then branch out with the crack.

FA: M. Haffner, R. Stiles, M. Corkin, 2009

23 Trad 50m
29 ** Looking for Johnny

The obvious splitter crack below the right end of the Log of Death. Rap from trees at the top of the splitter crack 30m to the ledge. Climb the crack straight up.

FA: R. Stiles, M. Corkin, M. Haffner, 2009

22 Trad 25m
30 * Dicky Ticker

Start: Lefthand route. Starts at the end of the 'death traverse'.

FA: M.Law, 1992

26 Sport 20m
31 * Don't Try This at Home

Start: Righthand route.

FA: S.Butler, 1992

22 Sport 20m
32 Double Standards

Up black wall past three U's to ledge then up to nice orange face.

Start: around arete from log of death.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2000

19 Sport 17m
33 Ratzinger's Thong

FA: M.Corkin, R.Styles

20 Sport 15m
34 Enlichenment

Shares the same anchor as RT about 20m higher then it should be.

FA: M.Corkin, R.Styles

21 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 * Who Da Man?

Very steep! Start in the dust below the overhang at the left side of the sector. A belay bolt marks the spot.

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 1995

23 Sport 20m
36 ** Slug Monk

Start as for Gruntled then climb left through some hard moves.

FA: M.Stacey, 1994

24 Sport 22m
37 *** Gruntled

Steep start, follow the corner then up.

FA: S.Butler, 1992

25 Sport 25m
38 ** Messenger in Red

FA: M.Law, 2000

27 Sport 23m
39 ** Better Dead than Red

FA: F.Yule, 2000

26 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 ** Pinking

FA: M.Law, 2000

29 Sport 28m
41 ** Detache Mode

FA: M.Law, 2000

30 Sport 28m
42 ** Lubberfiend

Nice thin wall and slab to a half ledge then a long and sustained pocket crux with a couple hard clips.

FA: M.Law, 1992

27 Sport 28m
43 *** Lactictoc

Start left of the arête. Over the slab then continue up the steepness.

FA: M.Law, 1992

26 Sport 28m
44 ** Warmenpumpen

Up the right side of the arête.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1993

23 Sport 20m
45 * Aroma Gunsmoke

Start: Around the arete from 'Lactictoc'. Another one of the hidden gems, sweet face climbing for when your steep arms give out. Rebolted Nov 2015

FA: S.McElroy, 1993

23 Sport 25m
46 ** The Big Bamboozle

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

24 Sport 20m
47 ** archie.au / archiedotau / Archie dot au

Under and over the arch, originally graded 24.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1993

23 Sport 20m
1.9.4.1. Shady Wall 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Little 15m wall, that kind of slides up the hill and is vertical to very slightly overhung. Has only one easy route, at the moment but has potential for 2 more and stays in the shade until about 2pm.

Approach:

From the bottom of the descent gully for the 'left side', turn right and walk around for about 40m, passing one wall, til you see the line of ring bolts on the second wall, on your right.

1.9.5. The Bat Cave 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:

From the old Freezer car park, keep heading further along the road to the powerline. Head down left over the rocky plateau to creek. Follow old road upstream. After 25m the surface changes, turn left and scramble to the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bat Fink

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

27 Sport 10m, 5
2 The Joker

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

27 Sport 12m, 4
3 The Riddler

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

26 Sport 12m, 4
4 Punchy

FA: S. Dent, 1995

24 Sport 10m, 4

1.9.6. Cosmic County 300 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.226837, -33.502696

Access Issues:

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

1.9.6.1. Greenhouse Gully 25 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.228884, -33.498120

1.9.6.2. The 39 Steps 40 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.228217, -33.499202

Approach:© (mjw)

Descent route about 45m right of 'Sparkles'. Ladder and ropes.

1.9.6.3. Memory Lane 73 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.227292, -33.500029

Description:© (mjw)

Gully to the right of 'Fantastic Voyage'. Includes certain iron work and chips. From the top down to the ledge utilising 'engineering' to ledge, then left to main gully and chain. The first few climb are located within the gully.

1.9.6.4. Camerons Crest 12 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.226584, -33.500645

Description:© (mjw)

Descent gully right of 'Penney Ante'. From the top scramble down short wall into the gully, then two choices. 1).Stroll down the right branch - facing out - to 'Penney Ante' and 'The Allied Chemical News' or, 2).Walk down the left branch into 'Stateline Gully'.

1.9.6.5. Stateline Gully 72 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.226312, -33.501862

1.9.6.6. Osiris Gully 8 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.9.6.7. Penny Arcade 36 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.225961, -33.504342

Description:© (mjw)

Area to the right of 'Osirus Gully'. Has some good routes in it but tends to be hard to navigate and broken in places. I does has some very good routes though. If you go down here make sure you do 'Mothers Choice, 'Fear in the Western World', Powder Monkey' and 'Brinksville'.

1.9.6.8. Lovers Lane 15 routes in Crag
Summary:
All Trad
1.9.6.9. Lunar Walls 19 routes in Crag
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (mjw)

Short compact crag averaging about 15m in height The remotest part of the county. Lower cliffline of 'The Last Frontier'.

Approach:© (mjw)

Walk down the gully below Lovers Lane about 80m. Have fun!

1.10. Mount Banks 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad
Description:

Epic big wall routes up to 500m in height, but quite broken by large ledges everywhere except around Groseness. Clearly visible from the other side of the valley at Perry's 'Lookout'. It is a one hour walk, or a fairly viperous 20minute mountain bike ride.

For a more complete online guide, see http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au:8080/confluence/display/nswrock/Mount+Banks

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Original Route

FA: Russ Kippax,Dave Roots,Enn Trupold,Owen Llewellyn; Russ Kippax,Enn Truupold,Owen Llewellyn

13 Trad 350m
2 Original Route - Alternate Finish 14 Unknown
3 Taghairn 14 Unknown 300m
4 The Assassination Unknown 300m
5 Coronation Crack 13 Unknown 200m
6 ** Pestosterone

Five pitches of sustained wall climbing, mostly on hanging belays. Bring 19 bolts plates (!!) and a comfortable harness. This is a fully bolted route. Helmets advised - you are a LONG way from a rescue (unless you can yell loud enough to get the attention of the tourists on the other side of the valley). Named in memory of a young and very motivated Graham Fairbairn, many years ago. Now he's matured into a statesman of rap.

Start: Rap into this route with double 50m ropes. You will need to rap each pitch (ie 5 abseils). Either down Groseness (15m, 25m, 40m, 50m, 25m, 25m) or down 'Pestosterone' (45m, 45, 45, 15, 45, but a bit harder to get the rope over the edge on the top rap).

  1. 45m (21) Dirty corner to start, that slowly steepens and gets more technical to hanging stance. Use long runners to avoid rope drag.

  2. 18m (20) Traverse right to rotting flake, up this with caution to gain better quality steep wall. 'Grovel' onto Oasis Ledge.

  3. 43m (23) Up thin wall to start, rightwards through small roof then up endless edges to hanging belay.

  4. 47m (23) Epic. Up thin corner, bouldery wall, roof, crimpers, edges, orange groove and final crimpy crux! Hanging belay on tiny ledge.

  5. 35m (22) A steep conclusion through the tiered roofs and pumpy end wall. 'Bush bash' up vegetation and surmount final easy wall to belay anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith,Mike Law, 2008

23 R Sport 190m 5
7 *** DIE DIE DIE!

im a little cocnut

FA: @mikl,Vanessa Peterson, 2000

24 Sport 210m
8 *** Groseness

Excellent and very vertical climbing, the runout sections are easier than they look. This goes up the only section of Mt Banks that doesn’t have huge vegetated ledges on it. Access and descent: There’s a cairn on the edge of the cave, about 5 m south (left facing out) of the point of the triangle roof. Scramble down on the left (facing out) then back right to trees 5m below this and rap straight down 10m to a rap station (belay # 5) on the edge of the cliff, 1m south of a little conifer. Abseil down the route. There are a selection of rings and chains on the belays, some of the glue was dodgy so use all the anchors, leave some water on “The Oasis” too. The rings are a bit tight so if you leave a biner clipped into the rings, it may (has often) jamb the abseil rope. Scramble up 10m to a ledge about 8 m south (right) of the corner (Pestosterone) to a short crack. Inspection of the climbing helps as you rap in. The climbing takes about 4-6 hours. Take slings, 12+ brackets and a single set of cams in the finger to hand size (Camalot 0.5 - 2).

  1. 35m (20) Thin crack and slab to ledge.

  2. 35m (20) Up and left into corner line, up to tree and big ledge.

  3. 45m (24) Sustained up to small ledge (“The Oasis”). 11 bolts.

  4. 45m (23) Thin start just left of belay then right and up, runout up and right (medium cam if you’re scared) then back left to anchor.

  5. 35m (22) Up to edge of cliff. Rock quality deteriorates in top half of this pitch.

  6. 10m (15) Up easy choss to ledge 5m below cave. This pitch can easily be linked with pitch 5.

FA: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson, 2000

24 Sport 210m 6
9 Tricycle

A nice big crack for 3 pitches then 7 pitches of bush bashing crap. Bring a full trad rack, crampons and 10 bolt plates.

Start: You need to rap in to access this route. First ascent team went straight down the route off manky trees and bolts, not recommended. Best to rap down Grossness and walk about 200m right to below left facing big wide corner and roof.

  1. 30m (16) Scramble up choss, up easy chimney past scary chockstone, then finally layback up nice orange offwidth past 4 carrots to belay on big ledge at double BRs.

  2. 15m (22) Mega offwidth undercling under huge roof. Belay around in corner at 4 bolt belay. Pumpy!

  3. 35m (15) Continue up wide crack with spaced trad gear in horizontals. Big cams and slings useful. Belay on loose slope on multiple suss trees.

  4. 50m (1) Scramble up and right through spiky bush to little cave.

  5. 30m (6) Up dirty corner and chimney to tree belay below big orange wall.

  6. 17m (18) Climb tree to gain undercut corner at far right end of roofs on right edge of orange wall. Up corner for 7m then traverse hard left across black wall to belay in scoop at double BR belay (up high in scoop).

  7. 25m (17) Step left into corner crack. Up this (good cams) to final tricky bulge to gain bushy gully. Belay on double BRs on left side of bottom of gully.

  8. 40m (3) Classic. Bushbash straight up guts of vegetated canyon/gully until an easy traverse left solves the overhang. Belay on trad on ledge.

  9. 45m (6) Walk to left end of ledge, then up on rock (shock horror!) to topout.

  10. 30m (1) Walk right along ledge to gully and scramble up.

FA: Mike Law & Neil Monteith, 2008

22 Mixed 280m 10, 10
10 Solstice 21 Unknown 110m
11 Zireon 14 Unknown 260m
12 Black Hole 21 Unknown 90m
13 Gordon-Smith Chimney Unknown
14 Serrata

FA: Mike Patterson, Hayden Brotchie, 2005

14 Unknown 250m

1.11. Birrabang Walls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grossed Out

FA: J Croker & W Stebler

16 Unknown 90m
2 Kestrel Buttress

FA: H Brotchie & J Croker

17 M1 Aid 120m

1.12. Dalpura Head 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.309520, -33.548438

Unique Features And Strengths:

Multi-pitch wall climbing with modern bolts and the amazing summit of the Lost Pillar.

Description:

This is a major section of cliff, up to 150m high, that is rarely visited. This is mostly because there isn't a good track to the top of the cliff, be prepared for some navigational challenges. The star attraction of this cliff is the Lost Pillar, a free standing 80m high slender pillar with several trad and sport routes up each side. Although this is a fun summit there are many better quality routes on the walls around it that involve rapping in and climbing out. Much of this cliff faces south west so get shade until quite late in the day. For most of these routes you will need at minimum double ropes, or even better a 100m static rope as well as a lead rope.

Approach:

Park at large pull out 2.2km west from Mt Wilson turn-off on Bells Line of Road. Cross road to south side and locate well worn foot path. Follow this for 15 minutes (it turns into an old road) until it disappears. Follow yellow coloured tape markers through bush and down ridge to small col. Drop down right side (keep folowing the tape markers!) and follow cliff edge into gully and back up the other side. Continue along semi-open ground following tape markers for another 15 minutes to arrive at cliff top - see area description for the two separate rap access points.

History:

There was a lone piton found on pitch 3 of End of Days, presumably from a previous recce of the wall. Oddly the first recorded route appears to have only been established in 1999, with Mikl and Steve Moon's Crankenstien arete (bizarrely featured as a photo on the back cover of an early sport climbing guide to the Blue Mountains, but not included in the guidebook!). Mike returned a few years later with future wife in tow and did the unrepeated mega arete of Jocation. It doesn't appear that the actual Lost Pillar itself got an ascent until 2003, when Tony Williams, Nora Adam and Josh Dodson did a whole bunch of easy routes up it. These ascents were kept remarkably under lock and key until Neil Monteith wandered in five years later with new route fever on his brain, swung across to the summit and discovered ring bolts! He quickly dispatched several multi-pitch routes on the pillar itself and the walls surrounding it with Jesse Lomas (before he quite climbing shortly after). Since the boom years of 2008/2009 this cliff has returned to forgotten status.

1.12.1. The Lost Pillar 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.309979, -33.549180

Description:© (nmonteith)

An spectacular 80m high tower that sits about 7m out from the south face of 'Dalpura Head'. The Blue Mountain's answer to Yosemite's 'Lost Arrow' Spire. Surprisingly this appears to have been unclimbed until 2003, when Tony "Mad Taffy" Williams dragged himself away from the bar to bolt several routes. 'Surely' some old mountaineer managed to get up this in the dim dark past?

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at large pull out 2.2km west from Mt Wilson turn-off on Bells Line of Road. Cross road to south side and locate well worn foot path. Follow this for 15 minutes (it turns into an old road) until it disappears. Follow yellow coloured tape markers through bush and down ridge to small col. Drop down right side (keep folowing the tape markers!) and follow cliff edge into gully and back up the other side. Continue along semi-open ground following tape markers for another 15 minutes. Navigation is quite hard as you don't have any points to aim for. It is highly recommended to take a GPS (Carpark -33.5353, 150.3195 Halfway -33.5436, 150.3140 Lost Pillar -33.5489, 150.3099). Locate carrot bolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!), fix either a 100m rope, or two 50m ropes and rap straight down into notch between the pillar and the main wall. Scramble down the gully between this notch in an eastern direction to get to the bottom. Once you've had your fun on the pillar you will need to climb something on the main wall to get back to the top - the easiest is 'Welsh Dragon' (19 A1) which climbs the wall opposite the pillar. For descriptions of these routes go one level up and click on 'Dalpura Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bendy Banana Chimney

First pitch of first(?) ascent route of 'The Lost Pillar'. Start at DBB next to big block in high point of notch on Pillar side. Follows chimney (good pro) between precariously balanced banana shape block and Pillar to block perched on top, DBB on block or good natural gear belay on ledge below upper wall. Rap to notch off DBB.

FA: Tony Williams/Nora Adam/ Josh Dodson, 2003

13 Unknown 20m
2 Original Way Up

2nd pitch of original route up Pillar. From top of Bendy Banana Chimney head up diagonally left up cracks and blocks to double ring anchors and top of Pillar.

FA: Josh Dodson/ Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2003

12 Unknown 20m
3 ** Sherpa's Revolt

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams right to arete of Lost Pillar and up to 'diving board' block. Great exposure and views. Belay bolts are the rap station rings at top of pillar. Sign the Log Book, Rap down Josh's pitch.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

15 Mixed 20m, 3
4 * Gundu

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams on left side of upper tier and up to 'diving board' block. Belay station is the rap station (double rings) at top of Lost Pillar. 20m rap to 'Bendy Banana block' or 50m to notch (hard rope pull).

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

16 Mixed 20m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Wafer Thin Fin

One of the most novel routes in the country up an extraordinary natural feature that redefines the term knife blade arete. No amount of hyperbole will prepare you for the first sight of this exposed prow on a remote tower. Imagine 'Flake Crack' but without the main wall and 70m high. You can even hang your arm through holes in the arete in several places! Rock quality is generally pretty poor but it's all about position position and position! Protection is very good, generally on solid ring bolts and occasionally on bomber fixed slings tied through holes in the arete. Although technically this is a sport route be prepared for high amounts of rope admin - bring jumars, lots of biners and helmets. Have an escape plan if it all goes wrong and the tower falls down.

The route is located on the south east arete of the Lost Pillar on Dalpura Head. Locate carrot bolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!), fix either a 100m rope, or two 50m ropes and rap straight down into notch between the pillar and the main wall. Scramble down the gully between this notch in an eastern direction to find start of route.

  1. 35m (21) The Floating Fin Pitch. Start on right wall of fin, about 5m up the gully. Traverse hard left across the horizontal break (super chossy) past lots of stainless to gain better rock on left side of arete. Up. No, seriously keep going up. Belay on ledge at triple bolt belay. Rope drag is a minor issue on this pitch.

  2. 18m (22) Sea Cliff Pitch. Go against all logic and traverse out right above the sucking void to gain the knife blade arete again. Up. Yes, the slings are bomber. No, you can't come down. Take care with the top-out onto the belay ledge, there is quite a bit of small loose shale. Double ring belay.

  3. 18m (23) Sandy Boulder Pitch. Surprisingly punchy in the bottom half. First bolt is a dangerously high clip, so pull on belay bolts to reach it. Belay on double rings and FH. To descend scramble to true summit 5m away and locate double rings on west facing block. Rap 30m down into notch. Jumar back up fixed rope for 100m (!!) or climb something on the main face.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas, 2008

23 Sport 71m 3
6 * Lost Crack

Major direct corner system on the south west side of the pillar. All trad, and done ground up in the finest possible style (if you disregard nude soloing).

  1. 20m (23) Up thin crack and either step right to belay or continue straight up second pitch. This pitch is shared with Josh's Big Trad Line.

  2. 25m (18) Step back into thin corner and up, past blocks and roof to base of clean chimney

  3. 25m (19) Up clean line and thru roof to belay

  4. 40m (16) Up chimney to ledge and finish up right arete (Gundu).

FFA: Adrian Lang, Mike Law, 2009

23 Trad 110m 4
7 Josh's Big Trad Line

Attempt at major line on the south face. First ascent involved some minor aid, which was subsequently freed 5 years later by Ado and Mike. Finish as for 'Bendy Banana Chimney' then 'Original Way Up' finish.

  1. 20m (18 M1) Up line 6m left of chossy chimney on south face. This is the same as pitch 1 of Lost Crack (23)

  2. 40m (-) 2) 40m Up corner system and left to notch

FA: Josh Dodson & Tany, 2004

18 M1 Unknown 60m 2

1.12.2. Dalpura Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.309520, -33.548438

Description:© (nmonteith)

Shade until 2pm with a fairly cruisy 40 minute walk if you can follow the tape markers!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at large pull out 2.2km west from Mt Wilson turn-off on Bells Line of Road. Cross road to south side and locate well worn foot path. Follow this for 15 minutes (it turns into an old road) until it disappears. Follow yellow coloured tape markers through bush and down ridge to small col. Drop down right side (keep folowing the tape markers!) and follow cliff edge into gully and back up the other side. Continue along semi-open ground following tape markers for another 15 minutes to arrive at cliff top and large bollard with sling. Navigation is quite hard as you don't have any points to aim for. It is highly recommended to take a GPS (Carpark -33.5353, 150.3195 Halfway -33.5436, 150.3140 Crag Top -33.5484, 150.309).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

End Of Days Sector

The first two routes are 150m north-west of the Lost Pillar. The top of the routes are at GPS-33.548084, 150.308802. Both routes share the same start, and require rapping down to make it to the starting ledge. You MAY be able to scramble up to this ledge if you walk over from the base of the Lost Pillar, but this has never been done previously. This section of wall is in the shade until 2pm.

1 * I Scream and Grapple Sky

Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.

Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. Best to fix 100m of rope to ring bolt anchors at end of pitch 1 of I Scream ect, then 30m rap to start belay ledge from there. Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.

  1. 35m (23) Long and sustained face climbing. Easy sandy corner crack to roof, undercling left and across face which thins alarmingly near the end.

  2. 45m (23) Long and exposed fused flake just right of arete to top of pillar. Up and left across short orange face to shale break. Past this on jugs to belay in slabby corner stance at triple bolt belay. Sustained!

  3. 32m (23M1 or 27) Yet to be led clean. Pull on crux bolt to knock this pitch down from grade 27 to grade 23. Left onto arete then left again to short juggy face. Thin moves to horizontal, left along this to reachy move over rooflet (glued-up hold). Up very exposed left facing corner to juggy finish and comfy bivi ledge under huge roof.

  4. 13m (20) Short, steep and exposed. Up and left on ironstone jugs to hit roof at mossy crack. Jugs to top. Double ring belay.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jesse Lomas (P1, P2, P3), 2008

FA: Neil Monteith,Jesse Lomas (P4), 2008

27 Sport 130m 4
2 ** End of Days

Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established.

Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.

  1. 30m (22) Start as for I Scream pitch 1 at wide sandy corner crack. At 2nd bolt step right (trad) and up steep flake crack, mostly on finger/small hand sized cams. One bolt when the flake gets wafer thin. Finish up wall on bomber micro cams. Belay on comfy ledge right of orange wall.

  2. 20m (23) Stellar! Left across orange face to breach roof on left side. Up exposed techy arete to belay ledge. A sport pitch.

  3. 20m (25) Stretch those calves and chalk those palms! Traverse left to stunning fused bridging corner that's lovingly cleaned to perfection. Four bolts then final finger crack on cams.

  4. 15m (15) Easy juggy ironstone slab trending left. Belay on big vegetated ledge.

  5. 35m (21) Surprisingly sustained face which looks like an ironstone jug haul from below. Bring three bolt hangers for the occasional random carrot.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes (Alt Leads), 2008

25 Trad 120m 5

Lost Pillar Wall Sector

The next two routes are on the main wall directly opposite the Lost Pillar itself.

3 Jocation

A big arete.

Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.

  1. 50m (27) Rounded arete past bolts to ledge, 2nd bolt needs a sling to ease clip-fear.

  2. 50m (18) Loose arete past bolts. Mike thought this was going to be grade 8 when he bolted it.

FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster, Ness Peterson, 2000

FFA: Mikl, Ness, 2002

27 Sport 100m 2
4 * Welsh Dragon

WARNING - bolts on this route may be dangerous, some fell out with remarkable ease on the top belay. Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.

  1. 20m (M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from notch between Lost Pillar and main wall and up to ledge. Scramble right along ledge to double bolt belay.

  2. 15m (16) Delicate moves to slopey holds whilst traversing right past four BRs to triple bolt belay. Good warm up for next pitch.

  3. 25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. Don't fall between 1st and 2nd bolt or you will...? 6 BRs in total and a #3 camalot would be helpful to calm the nerves at halfway point. Finish by picking your way through 1 foot shale ledge to bushes and DBB.

  4. 28m (19) Great exposure and positions up the vertical wall on many good and not-so good holds. Hang a draw over the top when you rap in to reduce fear factor. 11 BRs.

FA: Tony Williams,Nora Adam,Josh Dodson (P2-4), 2003

FA: Tony Williams (P1), 2006

19 M1 Sport 88m 4

Arete Sector

The next two routes climb prominant south-west facing aretes about 50m east of the Lost Pillar. You can easily walk over to the base from the pillar - or rap in from above down either route. To get to the top of these routes walk down gully to GPS -33.549075, 150.310654.

5 * The Opposition

Gripping arete which offers a good escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. 14 draws and 8 brackets.

Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.

  1. 15m (22) Leftwards to high first ubolt then left again to arete. Ponder the lack of holds, find a solution and scuttle up to belay below steep orange arete.

  2. 40m (23) Steeply up right side of arete with a few long moves. Cross a minor choss band then continue up the ladder of jugs. Finish with a few techy crimp moves on the left then right side of arete.

  3. 40m (18) Jugs to big break, over this then up techy black arete on little ironstone edges. Ramble up ledgy stuff to finish. Botl plates needed for this pitch. Belay off double BRs.

FFA: Neil Monteith (all leads), Ben Van Balen, 2009

23 Sport 95m 3
6 * Crankenstein

Classic big sport cranker. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in carrots. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates.

Start: Down to gully and out left. Locate lunch cave and scramble down to the R (facing out) to ledge and DBB (this is the 3rd belay).

  1. 35m (25) Up leaning L side of arete until obvious move around to R side. Up to small footledge and semi-hanging DBB. About 11 BRs.

  2. 40m (24) Follow the amazing steep line of scoops for miles until it blanks out on a black wall. Thin moves then up to Balderstone Point and DBB. Scramble up to the other DBB on Balderstone Point.

  3. 35m (24) Out L then crank onto arete (desperate). Up arete which looks easy to top.

FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999

25 Sport 110m 3

1.13. Explorers Walls 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blue Moon

FA: Hayden Brotchie, David Duke, 1999

19 M1 Aid 250m

1.14. Bung Crag 88 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.233742, -33.419884

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mainly sport crag located above Bungleboori Creek in Newnes State forest Smattering of trad routes amongst them as well as the obvious Bungleboori crack (gr 21) easily see across creek from Green wall

Description:

Multiple cliffs ranging from 15-50m in height, plenty of potential for lots of other routes for the keen.

NB: New crag, so be careful with rock coming off easily.

Access Issues:

Located in Newnes state forest, no real issues.

Approach:

Turn off bell line of road at ZigZag railway, and follow old bells line of road until about 1.5km past big left hand bend, turn right onto track with a tree marked with 2 small pink makers. (NOT trees with pink spray paint, keep driving. If you hit old sand mine you have gone about 1km to far.)

Road mostly 2wd friendly, last section needs a AWD or 4wd just for the clearance as it is a bit rocky and uneven... For walls A, B and C: higher 4WD's are recommended, as the road is uneven with inconsistent rock and large amount of undergrowth between tyres. Having only a 2WD drive will mean a 1km walk along mostly flat fire trail to car park. Small cars not recommended, and no place to turn around once past the "Y" in the road heading down to walls A. B and C.

Two car parks depending on which crags you want to visit, see location map below.

For walls A. B and C, once at the bottom of the 4WD track, head to the end and right of the remaining road, you will find a fixed rope down to crag.

Where To Stay:

Bush camping available at the western car park with several flat spots. You will need to take own water or face a big walk down the hill to the creek that is usually running.

1.14.1. Diesel Wall 22 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.237391, -33.418362

Description:

Vertical featured wall closest to car park

Approach:

Park at car park and follow track right at lookout, down rock ramp to base of cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boob Job

First route on the wall, up juggy face to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2014

13 Sport Project 10m, 4
2 Snap Happy

Start at base of weakness. Line of bolts following weakness up the wall.

FFA: Kevin van tilburg, 2012

14 Sport 12m, 4
3 The Insanity of Christianity

3m rt of SH, Straight up face following orange streak to lowers off first lip.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2012

18 Sport 12m, 5
4 Mummy Porn

2m rt of TIOC, Up left side of featured flake up Over couple bulges to the top. Has its own lower off but better for rope to step left at last bolt and use TIOC lower off.

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 2012

16 Sport 12m, 5
5 Profits for Prophets

2m rt of MP. Bouldery start up steepish face on orange rock.

FFA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2012

19 Sport 11m, 5
6 Renos Dirty Undies

2m rt of PFP, thinish start up left hand flake over bulge to anchors

Set by Ian Reynolds

FFA: Vanessa Wills, 2013

19 Sport 14m, 6
7 Closed Project - Dude

Thin start to techy face tending right to shared anchors.

Sport Project 12m, 5
8 Fuels my Hate Fire

Bouldery start leads to big move on big holds, surprisingly pumpy. Shared anchors.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2014

18 Sport 12m, 5
9 Don't be complacent

1m lt of ROTT, Fun climbing up featured vertical face

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2012

17 Sport 12m, 5
10 Return of the Triffid

On far right side of this part of the wall. Gain first obvious jug then jugs and big moves to the top, excellent starter climb for any beginning leader.

FFA: Rod wills, 2012

12 Sport 8m, 3
11 My Empire of Dirt

Just lt of crack, up over bulge and couple of mantles

FFA: Rod Wills, 2012

16 Sport 10m, 4
12 Renos Squeeching Undies

Large crack just right of MEOD, 3 bolts up to sit down clip at anchors.

FFA: David Filan, 2013

15 Sport 7m, 3
13 The Third Turd

3m rt of crack, Bouldery start leads to juggy wall, through steep orange grove to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2012

18 Sport 12m, 5
14 On The Spot

Starts under small overlap into shallow corner. Bouldery start with holds a plenty onto face and straight up

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2012

14 Sport 14m, 5
15 Sacrifice to the Choss God

3m rt of OTS, Ledgey slab, could be easier or harder than 13, depends which holds ya trust

FFA: Rod wills, 2012

13 Sport 13m, 5
16 Kill for Satan

2m rt of STTCG. Up better rock then its left hand neighbour, fun climbing to shared anchors

FFA: David Filan, 2012

13 Sport 13m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Frosty When Wet

1m left of tree, Up thinish face onto featured juggy slab to shared anchors

FFA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2012

15 Sport 14m, 5
18 My Body is a Cage

1m rt of tree, Up initial faint arete onto slab tending left at top to shared anchors with FWW

FFA: Rod Wills, 2012

14 Sport 14m, 6
19 I Lichen It

2m rt of MBIAC, Up featured face left of shallow corner, over cruxy bulge to the top.

FFA: Kevij van Tilburg, 2012

17 Sport 15m, 6
20 Death Warrant 2

Follow arete right side of ramp, step around roof and up to anchors

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 2013

16 Sport 12m, 5
21 I Cant Feel My Bingo

Shared start with DW2, traverse right at first bolt and then straight up tending left at top to shared anchors with DW2.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

17 Sport 12m, 6
22 Fart Wars

Same start as for ICFMB, traverse right at 4th bolt and up through faint funnel to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

18 Sport 14m, 7

1.14.2. Walk Down Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.236854, -33.418453

Description:

10m high wall located to the right on the walk down to Red Wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Monkey Back

Up ramp clipping bolts along the way to steep face were the fun starts, big moves, big holds, great fun.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

19 Sport 12m, 6
2 Extraction Point

Shared start with MB, step right onto arete at first bolt up straight up. Carefil clipping second bolt, blowing it will result in nasty fall.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2014

16 Sport 10m, 4
3 We I Grow Up I Want To Be a 25

Very hard start off the ground to easier territory after the break. 16 grade is batman to first bolt start climbing from there, fun but short. Ground up ascent awaits.

FA: Rod Wills, 2014

16 M1 Sport 10m, 4

1.14.3. The Red Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.235748, -33.419596

Description:

Despite extensive cleaning, this area has had very little traffic by Dec 2015 and a major fire in 2013. Two shale bands run horizontally a and are subject to loose rock. Be wary of loose holds and wear a helmet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Harvest Day

Up easy ramp at left hand end of wall to first bolt

FFA: V Wills, 2012

20 Sport 25m, 13
2 The Diving Board

Bouldery start then easily up ramp to right. Steep jug hauling until crux and finish to right of the diving board.

FA: V Wills, 2012

21 Sport Project 22m, 11
3 * Ansett

Bouldery start to easier climbing. A good 20A0 if you pull on first draw

FA: Dave Gray, 2012

23 Sport Project 20m, 10
4 Panem ethics

Hard start to second bolt then pleasant grade 19 climbing to anchors via overhang and flake. Finishes at large horizontal ledge.

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

23 Sport 18m, 10
5 *** TrackerJack

Goes to top of wall via large L facing flake and roof. Needs 70m rope.

FA: V Wills, 2012

18 Sport 33m, 14
6 ** Chink in the Armour

Up through 2 roofs, the lower one the harder

FA: V Wills, 2012

21 Sport 20m
7 * Twigs and Bark

Up slab and flake at right end of wall, through small roof onto thin slab. Finish on large ledge

FA: D Gray, 2012

20 Sport 15m
8 ** Down in Hobart Town

A second pitch to either TAB or S. Up through two roofs. 32 m to ground from anchors.

FA: @dave_gray,@vwills, 2016

19 Sport 15m
9 * Smuji

Up slab at right hand end of wall with a long reach in the upper third. Mantle onto ledge to share anchors with TAB

FA: @dave_gray,@vwills, 2016

19 Sport 18m

1.14.4. The Creature Wall 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.235244, -33.420046

Description:

Grey slabby rock below to massive ledge topped by orange overhanging "little Taipan" wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shawn of the Dead

Just to the right of the red wall there is a crack for 6 metres leading into juggy ironstone and onto ledge under main wall

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

13 Trad 15m
2 Little Fella

Access to the overhanging orange wall up high. Right of crack at blunt arete, wander up past the occasional bolt to DBB on left hand nd of ledge

FFA: Dave Gray, V Wills, Shannon Gregg, Zoe Gregg, 2013

6 Sport 18m, 5
3 *** Old Yeller

From the DBB at left hand end of ledge climb steep ironstone corner/arete

FFA: V Wills, 2013

22 Sport 15m, 6

1.14.5. The Green Wall 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.234625, -33.420188

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The plank

From the belay above "Little Leprechaun", traverse 4m right and climb mossy wall past 2 spaced rings and some small cams, to double ring bolt belay.

FA: David Gray and Vanessa Wills, 2015

19 Mixed 15m, 4
2 ** The Little Leprechaun

Traverse left under roof (#2) into narrow hand crack. Clip bolt on face after second roof and up to anchors above ledge

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

21 Trad 15m
3 Project flake Sport
4 * Palak Veneer

Battle up ferns to ramp. Step left onto wall then 3 bolts to ledge (medium cam helpful). Continue up line of bolts past 1 lone carrot. The direct version of Indian takeaway

FA: D Gray, 2013

22 Sport 25m
5 * Indian takeaway

Start from ledge at right end of wall. Shared start with IG, up flake the traverse left after 3 bolts and up

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

23 Sport 20m
6 Indian giver

Shared start at flake then continue straight up.

FA: D Gray, 2012

23 Sport 20m
7 Moss monster

The Right end corner

FA: D Gray, 2012

10 Trad 20m

1.14.6. The orange Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.234279, -33.420120

Description:

Also known as the "Old" wall. Routes start off a ledge on the left or up a chimney from ground level on right

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old

Scarily past 6 carrots to 2 rusty carrot anchors. The left route on the wall

20 Sport 25m
2 Too Young to be Old

Mixed route

20 Trad 25m
3 ** Even Love has Limits

From belay bolt on ledge head up face, and right following ring bolts to arete finish

FA: V Wills,, 2012

24 Sport 15m
4 Flake Thing

Head right from belay bolt then up past carrot, fixed hanger, some gear in flake and another carrot to now shared anchor with ELHL.

FA: 2012

19 Trad 15m
5 ** Good Golly Miss Molly

Start up incipient crack, moving right, to ledge then follow prominent black streak

FA: @dave_gray,@vwills, 2015

24 Sport 25m, 10
6 * Princess Molly

A link up that avoids cruxes of both routes, but is still quite sustained. Start up GGMM to the 6th bolt then head right to arête and finish up NP

FA: @dave_gray, 2015

23 Sport 20m
7 * Ninja Princess

Start up crack then moving right to hanging arete, and continue up arete to shared anchors

FA: @vwills,@dave_gray

25 Sport 25m
8 Ninja Princess Direct start

Slightly easier than the seam start, stick clip high bolt then up to flake (#3 cam) and then up to ledge to either route. A #1 cam also may be handy.

FA: @dave_gray, 2016

20 Trad 7m

1.14.7. Pack Raft Spire 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.233608, -33.420192

Description:

Free standing spire, with couple short routes on the north side (i.e, facing the creek)..good for a quick warn up for the longer routes up the valley.

Approach:

Continue on past Pagoda following fire trail, as it turns back towards cliff and big cave you can see the spire on the left amongst the trees.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 These People Are Pack Rafts

Up left side of spire, laying off the arete when you can in between the pockets.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

19 Sport 8m, 4
2 Id rather Be Pack Rafting

Straight up the middle, past diagonal flake through overlap to the top

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 2013

16 Sport 8m, 3

1.14.8. Niall Blair Testimonial wall 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.233466, -33.420857

Description:

At the bottom of the steep descent turn right and go down valley for 50 metres. This is the overhanging orange wall 10 m off the trail to the right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project VW,dg

From common start take the left route

Sport 14m
2 Ginger Meggs

From common start take right ward route through overhang. Probably 22 if tall and 24 up if short or very short.

Set by @vwills

FA: @dave_gray,@vwills

23 Sport 14m, 5

1.14.9. The Pagoda Environs 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.232166, -33.421072

Description:

An island pagoda with faces on all sides in middle of a gully. Most climbs found on north side with couple of the south.

Approach:

Down the bottom of the hill the Pagoda is seen on your left, cross fallen tree to base of wall...follow base of wall right to the first climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beautiful Mess

Slightly under cut start then jug haul to the top. A good warm up route for the area.

FFA: Rod wills, 2013

15 Sport 12m, 5
2 Emergency bacon

2m rt of BM. Straight up orange face left side of big cave, getting slightly steeper at the top.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

18 Sport 12m, 5
3 * Science Friction

Left of obvious scoop. Juggy fun varied climbing, Just follow the 5 bolts straight to lower offs.

FFA: Rod wills, 2013

16 Sport 13m, 5
4 Franks wank

Shared start with SF, tend right at 3rd bolt into funnel.

FFA: David Filan, 2013

16 Sport 14m, 6
5 F marks the spot

Fun climbing with variety of moves, following face just right of the scoop.

FFA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2013

17 Sport 13m, 5
6 Assault Your Senses

Up redish face 3m rt of obvious scoop, Good face climbing with a rest halfway.

FFA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2013

16 Sport 13m, 6
7 Synchronize Your Dogmas

The track hits the wall here. Easy start to a couple of mantle style moves up ramp rt at top to shared anchors with YCTAA

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

15 Sport 14m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 You Call This an Arete

Up obvious blunt bulgey arete

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

14 Sport 13m, 6
9 Well I Was In The Neighbourhood

3m rt of YCTAA, start up thin slab, passing some ledges to the top

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

13 Sport 11m, 5
10 Death and Gravity

3m rt of WIWITN, slab with a mantle or two

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

12 Sport 11m, 5
11 Breakfast made easy

2m of D&G, up slab to mantle over obvious feature up high, shared anchors with D&G

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

12 Sport 11m, 5
12 Baby Wipes

2m rt of BME, up the next obvious blunt arete tending rt to shared anchors

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 2013

10 Sport 10m, 4
13 Space Docking

2m rt of BW, next obvious blunt arete tending left at top to shared anchors

FFA: James Ryan, 2013

9 Sport 10m, 3
14 The Original Route

20m rt of BME around the corner. Route used to get to the summit of pagoda, bolted on lead originally with coach screws, re-bolted with glue-ins later. Tend right up dirty ramp to short juggy face, onto ledge, anchors here to lower off...if continuing to top just pull on the fixed hand line on the low angled slab to top. Note hanger at anchors is just a coach screw in no glue...do not use it as single anchor points (there for fixed hand line only)...use rings instead.

FA: David filan, 2012

FFA: David Filan, 2013

6 Sport 10m 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following climbs are found on the south side of the pagoda, i.e. 100m further along

15 The Last Supper

100m further around the pagoda on south side, arete right side of obvious funnel.

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 2013

16 Sport 12m, 5
16 Dingleberry

2m rt of funnel, up featured face to ledge and anchors.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

15 Sport 10m, 4

1.14.10. Surprise Wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.231602, -33.419970

Description:

30m high varied wall with cave to vertical faces.

Approach:

Walk past the pagoda environs onto other side of gully..first climbs seen on the left as you head down the hill and around the corner is the big cave a surprise wall proper on and upper ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Slab that Bon Scott Drunk

The next four routes are on the wall opposite Pagoda environs before you walk down and around to the Surprise wall proper.

Left most climb, tending left up juggy slab with a few mantles to lower offs.

FFA: Rod wills, 2013

15 Sport 15m, 7
2 The Drug That Killed River Pheonix

Mantle onto slab up to small overlap up steeper face

FFA: Rod Wills, 2014

19 Sport 15m, 7
3 Defecate on my Face

2m rt of TDTKRP, up short corner to juggy face tending slight right halfway to shared anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2014

17 Sport 15m, 6
4 Closed Project - Dude

Big moves and varied climbing straight up to shared anchors.

Sport Project 15m, 6
5 Only the Strong

From far end of ledge step onto ironstone wall and up through roof. Interesting and disconcerting rock

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2014

23 Sport 25m, 10
6 Ashes Fly

The offwidth corner at left hand of ledge system to DBB

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2014

14 Trad 15m
7 Charcoal Ground

From left end of ledge at belay bolt start up crack to head wall (2 RBs) and DBB.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2014

17 Mixed 15m, 2
8 ** Blue Sky Mining

From ledge step off block and up slab to orange overhang

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

18 Sport 29m, 14
9 Red Sails in the Sunset

Up flake then easily up black wall onto orange headwall

FA: V Wills, 2013

21 Sport 25m
10 In the Wind

Start as for RSITS but at ledge head right to anchors of ITV

FA: V Wills, 2014

20 Sport 25m
11 * In the Valley

From ledge up flake via tricky thin moves to easier but lichenous ground until final overhang

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2013

22 Sport 29m,