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Description:

100m further left from mine shaft

P1 (15) - Up easy hand-crack to belay at back of cave.

P2 (18) - Up slab to arrange protection in roof crack. From there either (a) Downclimb and step around arete, then up delicately; or (b) stay high and traverse under the roof crack. Whatever route you take, it leads to a hard move past flake to footledge. Then traverse right to corner, and up easy corner to top.

Walk off via Gully to the right (facing in).

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Paul Thomson (P1) & Rob Burton (P2), 2012

Location:  

Located in North Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.209150,-33.510539

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
18 * Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard pleasant good wicked enjoyable easy traverse

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