Ascents of COALgate Smile

Stoked to get this today on my first shot of the day. With the cleaned crux footers, it was still desperate but no longer dangerous. The roof sequence is the crux, once established in a stemming stance above the roof its only 18 or so to the top. Bring at least 3 x BD 0.50 and 3 x BD 0.75... I didn't, it was exciting!

Done with 1 rest at the bottom (20M0) as an attempt to free the climb. I balked when I saw the volume of moss growing on the crux footer, and rested on the rope to scrub it off. Then clean to the top. Now that the crucial footer is clean, this climb will definately go free. Looks completely insignificant and easy from the ground, but this climb is DESPERATE. Committing, scary, delicate crux move off the first-ledge, then strenuous insecure corner climbing to the top. Malevolently deceptive!