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20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. A real classic.

P1 15m - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

P2 (17) 30m - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag, you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2.

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: Rob Burton & Morgan Huxley (alt leads), 2012

Location:  

Located in Far North Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.209186,-33.507972

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
19 ** Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good amazing classic exposed easy chimney roof lip crack

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