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20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. A real classic.

P1 15m - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

P2 (17) 30m - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag, you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2.

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Rob Burton, Morgan Huxley, (alt leads), Oct 2012


Located in Far North Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.209186,-33.507972

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
19 ** Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good amazing classic exposed easy chimney roof lip crack

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