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Description

The large red walls opposite and up the valley from Hanging Rock.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

A 1.5 hr trudge , mostly untracked. Walk 20 minutes as for Yileen canyon access then as that trail descends down and left break trail right (untracked) and utilise the two saddles due west that are apparent on topo map. take a left on ridge after the second saddle and weave through the mallee until a very large hill appears on the valleys edge. meander along the top of this (slightly to the west) avoiding any side gullys until approx. 20m from edge. find a way down the North edge keeping behind a few outcrops until the rap anchor for Pitch 4 of Roslyns , located near a flat platform at edge , around the front of the pagoda.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Routes

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Grade Route

P1. 15mtrs. Grade 21 , 9 Bolts P2. 35mtrs. Grade 22 , 13 Bolts P3. 20mtrs. Grade 21 , 11 Bolts P4. 20mtrs. Grade 22 , 10 Bolts

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Evan Wells & Hugh Sutherland, 30 Jan 2018

FA: J Croker & W Stebler

FA: H Brotchie & J Croker

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