Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

Serendipitous Cracks

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Craig Hale, 2000