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Description

The main area, with plenty of hard routes.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Fort Rock Crag
5
15
16m

Routes

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Grade Route
2
29 *** Tower of Orthank Sport 6m

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

3
18 Smooth & Crunchy Sport 6m

Used to go all the way to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century., 2000

4
29 *** Image Magic Sport 12m

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

5
27 *** Next Dimension Sport 12m

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

6
28 ** Gateway Sport 10m

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

7
26 ** Enemy at the Gate Sport 10m

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

FA: J.Clark, 2003

8
28 ** Super Sprinkle Cake Sport 18m

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

FA: G.Miller, 2004

9
29 *** Middle Earth Sport 10m

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

10
31 *** Double Adapter Sport 15m

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

11

FA: Step up and fight. A FA means nothing if you don't 'let' someone on it, 2000

12

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

13
24 *** The Amateur Sport 12m

The best warm up here.

FA: A.Watts, 2004

14
28 ** The Professional Sport 15m

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

15
27 ** De Art Sport 8m

Around the corner in the White Cave.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

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