A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Gateway & Fort Rock 19 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272678, -33.630983

Description:© (secretary)

The main area, with plenty of hard routes.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tower of Orthank

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 6m
2 Smooth & Crunchy

Used to go all the way to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century., 2000

18Sport 6m
3 *** Image Magic

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 12m
4 *** Next Dimension

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 12m
5 ** Gateway

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

28Sport 10m
6 ** Enemy at the Gate

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

FA: J.Clark, 2003

26Sport 10m
7 ** Super Sprinkle Cake

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

FA: G.Miller, 2004

28Sport 18m
8 *** Middle Earth

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 10m
9 *** Double Adapter

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

31Sport 15m
10 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project

FA: Step up and fight. A FA means nothing if you don't 'let' someone on it, 2000

11 *** Fighting Urak – Hai

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

30Sport 10m
12 *** The Amateur

The best warm up here.

FA: A.Watts, 2004

24Sport 12m
13 ** The Professional

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

28Sport 15m
14 ** De Art

Around the corner in the White Cave.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 8m

1.1. Fort Rock 5 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272447, -33.632532

Description:© (secretary)

While not a new crag it seems to have been forgotten about. Crag faces south, so stays in the shade all day. For those who find 'Gateway' a wee bit streno it is a neat alternative.

Reference: Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains, 2nd Edition. Page 67.

Mixed climbing – take some gear! The crag need rebolting!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Company C

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22Trad 16m
2 * F Troop

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22Trad 16m
3 ** remember the alamo

FA: j.smoothy/g.williams, 2002

23Trad 15m
4 * Cheddar

FA: M.Wilson, 1989

22Trad 16m
5 * Rogue Fort

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1989

21Trad 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
18 Smooth & Crunchy Sport 6m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
21 * Rogue Fort Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock
22 * Cheddar Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock
* Company C Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock
* F Troop Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock
23 ** remember the alamo Trad 15m 1.1. Fort Rock
24 *** The Amateur Sport 12m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
26 ** Enemy at the Gate Sport 10m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
27 ** De Art Sport 8m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
*** Next Dimension Sport 12m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
28 ** Gateway Sport 10m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
** Super Sprinkle Cake Sport 18m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
** The Professional Sport 15m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
29 *** Image Magic Sport 12m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
*** Middle Earth Sport 10m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
*** Tower of Orthank Sport 6m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
30 *** Fighting Urak – Hai Sport 10m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
31 *** Double Adapter Sport 15m 1. Gateway & Fort Rock
? 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project Sport 1. Gateway & Fort Rock