A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Gateway & Fort Rock 19 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.631589

Description:© (secretary)

Two small upper cliff outcrops with some surprisingly good rock by Blueys standards, although also with a few snappable edges still lurking.

Access Issues:© (secretary)

You can come in from Thirroul Ave along what looks like a bush track, but this actually involves trespassing on the school land.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in from Bundarra St for 10 mins to Fort Rock, then continue west down the hill to a track / firebreak which contours around the hill. Fort Rock Crag is the first on the left about 200m from Fort Rock, or continue another 300m to the Gateway walk down.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Fort Rock Crag 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272447, -33.632532


Not to be confused with Fort Rock, which is the 4m high rock outcrop / lookout at the top of the hill at the end of the Fort Rock walking track. While not a new crag it seems to have been forgotten about, which is a shame as the routes are quite good. Especially if you need a better warm up for Gateway than a tweaky 24. Crag faces west-southwest and is slightly overhung, so its shady until mid arvo. Apart from one route all the routes need some trad gear. And rebolting!


About 300m from Fort Rock, walk down at the North end of the crag. The track is faint, bring clippers and make some cairns to help prevent track braiding.

Descent Notes:

The two central routes share lower-offs, the rest you have to top out then walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Company C

No anchor - either top out or veer 5m R to the DRB above RtA.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22 Trad 16m
2 ** Remember the Alamo

The middle route with good shiny FHs and lower-off.

FA: John Smoothy G.Williams, 2002

23 Sport 15m, 7
3 * F Troop

The route on old rusty carrots just right of the centre of the crag and the FHs. Juggy start (medium cams) to high BR, then nice wall climbing past another 3 BRs to trad finish (#2 Camalot + medium wire). Use shared lower-off with Remember the Alamo.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22 Mixed 16m, 4
4 * Cheddar

Old carrots, trad in between, and no lower-offs. Looks like it would be quite good if all this got fixed.

FA: M.Wilson, 1989

22 Trad 16m
5 * Rogue Fort

Old carrots, trad in between, and no lower-offs. Looks like it would be quite good if all this got fixed.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1989

21 Trad 16m

1.2. Gateway 14 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272713, -33.631058

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tower of Orthank

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

29 Sport 6m
2 Smooth & Crunchy

Used to go all the way to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century., 2000

18 Sport 6m
3 *** Image Magic

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29 Sport 12m
4 *** Next Dimension

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27 Sport 12m
5 ** Gateway

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

28 Sport 10m
6 ** Enemy at the Gate

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

FA: J.Clark, 2003

26 Sport 10m
7 ** Super Sprinkle Cake

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

FA: G.Miller, 2004

28 Sport 18m
8 *** Middle Earth

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29 Sport 10m
9 *** Double Adapter

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

31 Sport 15m
10 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project

FA: Step up and fight. A FA means nothing if you don't 'let' someone on it, 2000

11 *** Fighting Urak – Hai

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

30 Sport 10m
12 ** The Amateur

The best warm up here.

FA: A.Watts, 2004

24 Sport 12m
13 ** The Professional

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

28 Sport 15m
14 ** De Art

Around the corner in the White Cave.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27 Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
18 Smooth & Crunchy Sport 6m 1.2. Gateway
21 * Rogue Fort Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock Crag
22 * Cheddar Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock Crag
* Company C Trad 16m 1.1. Fort Rock Crag
* F Troop Mixed 16m, 4 1.1. Fort Rock Crag
23 ** Remember the Alamo Sport 15m, 7 1.1. Fort Rock Crag
24 ** The Amateur Sport 12m 1.2. Gateway
26 ** Enemy at the Gate Sport 10m 1.2. Gateway
27 ** De Art Sport 8m 1.2. Gateway
*** Next Dimension Sport 12m 1.2. Gateway
28 ** Gateway Sport 10m 1.2. Gateway
** Super Sprinkle Cake Sport 18m 1.2. Gateway
** The Professional Sport 15m 1.2. Gateway
29 *** Image Magic Sport 12m 1.2. Gateway
*** Middle Earth Sport 10m 1.2. Gateway
*** Tower of Orthank Sport 6m 1.2. Gateway
30 *** Fighting Urak – Hai Sport 10m 1.2. Gateway
31 *** Double Adapter Sport 15m 1.2. Gateway
? 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project Sport 1.2. Gateway