The Phoenix Area

Insufficient permissions! You have insufficient permissions to edit topos of this node.

Request Editor Permission

Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
1 ** Little Drummer Boy
19 Unknown 26m Unlink route
3 Firefly

Thin finger crack 10m left of The Phoenix. Has its own lower offs.

18 Trad 8m Unlink route
4 * Quetzal

A very long, moderately bold, slightly wandery thin slab that rejoins The Phoenix at its crux (last 8m of climbing) to avoid the nails hard direct finish to the top. 6 draws + Full set of Wires + small cams (to green 0.75), and 1 x #2, and 1x #4/#5 (for The Phoenix). From the GROUND, start up Firefly, past Firefly anchors WITHOUT re-belaying. Trend right to arete (#2 cam), then up trending left to semi-detached block (Quetzal Bolt #1), then trend right to thin flake system for a move or two, then back left, moving a few metres left at Quetzal Bolt #3), before heading back right past 2 more bolts. At 4th last bolt (Quetzal Bolt #5), move right into The Phoenix, then up The Phoenix to top.

21 Mixed 55m, 6 Unlink route
5 * Quetzalcoatl - PROJECT PAUL

PROJECT PAUL - CLOSED PROJECT. The very tough Direct Finish to Quetzal. Where exactly this climb will START from remains to be decided.

Trad Project Unlink route
6 ** The Phoenix

Long, sustained predominantly finger-crack climb with an exciting finish. Beautifully clean on good rock. Best done as one long 45m pitch (no rope drag). Bring the usually passive pro and doubles of cams 0.3 to 2, and singles 3, 4 and possibly 5. More small gear (0.3 and 0.4 or Aliens) keeps it sane. Be CAREUL of the loose blocks in the back of the off-width section. Crack completely re-cleaned October 2012.

20 Trad 45m Unlink route
7 Shortcut to Exposure
18 Unknown 45m Unlink route
8 * Archaeopterix

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch). Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area. P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall). P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock. EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

21 Sport 45m, 14 Unlink route
9 * The Firebird - PROJECT PAUL

PROJECT PAUL - CLOSED PROJECT. Relatively easy climbing, in an outrageous position. Bring 1 x 0.75, 2 x #1, 1 x #2 and 1 x #3 camelots, 6 draws + anchors. P1 - 20m (15) As for Archaeopterix Pitch 1. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall). P2 - (25m) Up flake, then hand traverse left. After 3rd bolt, keep going left past 2 more bolts to overhanging arete. Climb arete past 0.75/#1, #2, #1 and #3 cam placements on monster jugs (peek-a-boo) and some suspect rock to top. Bring up second and walk up to anchors above Archaeopterix P2. EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your section, and wall directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Mixed Project 50m, 4 Unlink route

The Phoenix Area Topo

Insufficient permissions! You have insufficient permissions to edit topos of this node.

Request Editor Permission

Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
1 ** Little Drummer Boy
19 Unknown 26m Unlink route
3 Firefly

Thin finger crack 10m left of The Phoenix. Has its own lower offs.

18 Trad 8m Unlink route
4 * Quetzal

A very long, moderately bold, slightly wandery thin slab that rejoins The Phoenix at its crux (last 8m of climbing) to avoid the nails hard direct finish to the top. 6 draws + Full set of Wires + small cams (to green 0.75), and 1 x #2, and 1x #4/#5 (for The Phoenix). From the GROUND, start up Firefly, past Firefly anchors WITHOUT re-belaying. Trend right to arete (#2 cam), then up trending left to semi-detached block (Quetzal Bolt #1), then trend right to thin flake system for a move or two, then back left, moving a few metres left at Quetzal Bolt #3), before heading back right past 2 more bolts. At 4th last bolt (Quetzal Bolt #5), move right into The Phoenix, then up The Phoenix to top.

21 Mixed 55m, 6 Unlink route
5 * Quetzalcoatl - PROJECT PAUL

PROJECT PAUL - CLOSED PROJECT. The very tough Direct Finish to Quetzal. Where exactly this climb will START from remains to be decided.

Trad Project Unlink route
6 ** The Phoenix

Long, sustained predominantly finger-crack climb with an exciting finish. Beautifully clean on good rock. Best done as one long 45m pitch (no rope drag). Bring the usually passive pro and doubles of cams 0.3 to 2, and singles 3, 4 and possibly 5. More small gear (0.3 and 0.4 or Aliens) keeps it sane. Be CAREUL of the loose blocks in the back of the off-width section. Crack completely re-cleaned October 2012.

20 Trad 45m Unlink route
8 * Archaeopterix

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch). Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area. P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall). P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock. EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

21 Sport 45m, 14 Unlink route
9 * The Firebird - PROJECT PAUL

PROJECT PAUL - CLOSED PROJECT. Relatively easy climbing, in an outrageous position. Bring 1 x 0.75, 2 x #1, 1 x #2 and 1 x #3 camelots, 6 draws + anchors. P1 - 20m (15) As for Archaeopterix Pitch 1. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall). P2 - (25m) Up flake, then hand traverse left. After 3rd bolt, keep going left past 2 more bolts to overhanging arete. Climb arete past 0.75/#1, #2, #1 and #3 cam placements on monster jugs (peek-a-boo) and some suspect rock to top. Bring up second and walk up to anchors above Archaeopterix P2. EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your section, and wall directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Mixed Project 50m, 4 Unlink route
7 Shortcut to Exposure
18 Unknown 45m Unlink route
2 Smoulder
10 Trad 10m Unlink route