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Has sun from about 11.30am in winter and is protected from the wind.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10 mins.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The dirty but decent looking crack. It will get better as it cleans up. Take small cams and a vision of what could be.

Face crack right of vegetated corner

FA: R.Ford

FA: R.Ford, 2004

FA: J.Andersen, 2004

1 18 20m
2 12 15m
3 18 25m

All ringbolts.

  1. 20m (18)

  2. 15m (12)

  3. 25m (18)

FA: J.Andersen & K.McKenzie, 2003

FA: J.Anderson

Belayer should take a helmet for the 3rd pitch belay station.

  1. 30m (16) Ignore first set of DBB on pillar at 10m, these are for GL.

  2. 25m (13)

  3. 30m (19)

FA: C.Coghill/J.Anderson

FA: Julian Andersen & Chris Coghill

FA: C Coghill & J Anderson

Take gear!

Slab, right of Mr Big.

Add a grade or so if you stay on line.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

Has an extra ring as a variant. (Long story). And shares lower offs with Cold Finger.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

Arete on rings right of CA. Has lower offs.

FA: S Puchala, 2000


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