Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

Has sun from about 11.30am in winter and is protected from the wind.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 * Goldfinger Trad 12m

The dirty but decent looking crack. It will get better as it cleans up. Take small cams and a vision of what could be.

face crack right of vegetated corner

FA: R.Ford

FA: R.Ford, 2004

2
20 Casino Royale Sport 15m

FA: J.Andersen, 2004

3
18 Honey Rider Sport 60m
  1. 20m (18)

  2. 15m (12)

  3. 25m (18)

FA: J.Andersen,K.McKenzie, 2003

4
10 ** George Lazumbe Trad 12m

FA: J.Anderson

5
19 ** Mr Big Sport 80m

3 pitches.Belayer should take a helmet.

  1. 30m (16)

  2. 25m (13)

  3. 30m (19)

FA: C.Coghill/J.Anderson

6
16 * Mr Big pitches 1&2 Sport 55m

FA: Julian Andersen, Chris Coghill

7

FA: C Coghill, J Anderson

8
13 * Unknown Trad 50m

Take gear!

9
16 Cold Finger Sport 12m

Slab, Right of Mr .

Add a grade or so if you stay on line.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

10
17 Casual Assassin Sport 12m

Has an extra ring as a variant. (Long story). And shares lower offs with Cold Finger.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

11
15 Flying Circus Sport 14m

Arete on rings right of CA. Has lower offs.

FA: S Puchala, 2000