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Description:© (secretary)

Has sun from about 11.30am in winter and is protected from the wind.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Goldfinger

The dirty but decent looking crack. It will get better as it cleans up. Take small cams and a vision of what could be.

face crack right of vegetated corner

FA: R.Ford,

FA: R.Ford, 2004

18
Trad 12m
2 * Casino Royale

FA: J.Andersen, 2004

20
Sport 15m
3 Honey Rider
  1. 20m (18)

  2. 15m (12)

  3. 25m (18)

FA: J.Andersen,K.McKenzie, 2003

18
Sport 60m
4 ** George Lazumbe

FA: J.Anderson,

10
Trad 12m
5 ** Mr Big

3 pitches.Belayer should take a helmet.

  1. 30m (16)

  2. 25m (13)

  3. 30m (19)

FA: C.Coghill/J.Anderson,

20
Sport 80m
6 * Mr Big pitches 1&2

FA: Julian Andersen, Chris Coghill,

16
Sport 55m
7 ** From Russia with Love

FA: C Coghill, J Anderson,

17
Trad 47m
8 * Unknown

Take gear!

13
Trad 50m
9 Cold Finger

Slab, Right of Mr .

Add a grade or so if you stay on line.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

16
Sport 12m
10 Casual Assassin

Has an extra ring as a variant. (Long story). And shares lower offs with Cold Finger.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

17
Sport 12m
11 Flying Circus

Arete on rings right of CA. Has lower offs.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

15
Sport 14m