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West facing cliff in progress.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Descent notes

Rap anchors on all routes.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


View historical timeline

Neil and co weren't the first visitors this to cliff. They found one old FH and dynabolt and some ringbolt notches on the left wall - circa 2000s?



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Grade Route

Starts at left edge of cave, on the right side of the orange overhung wall. Undercut start then up slopers to big break. Big reach to next break then hand traverse left across jugs to crux move going back up again. Finish up sustained edges then easier ground.

FA: Neil Monteith, 10 Mar 2013

Central line of the overhung orange wall. Starts just right of small tree growing at base of cliff. Sustained pumpy climbing on mostly big jugs. Runout to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, 9 Feb 2013

New jenga project in the works.

Hard move up the mini arete to start then traverse right under the roof for 5m then let the big dynamic moves start. Bolting in progress.

Walk 50m left along narrow vegetated ledge to flat ground and vertical wall with major right facing slabby corner crack.

Left facing flake up overhung orange wall on left side of crag. Starts in small cave with undercut start onto shelves. Figure the lower crux (go direct if you are super tall, or slightly right). Amble up slabby section for a few metres then blast up the big flake.

May have been climbed previously. At left of cliff is this slabby splitter hand crack corner. It ends at roof - traverse right and up into thin corner (old piton and screw gate in crack). At top of corner traverse left (maybe - looks hard) into easier left facing corner finish. Lone dynabolt and FH on top of cliff to belay from.

Start at base of arete, and get established on thin holds. Up wall to big moves on the orange streak. maybe 24ish ??

FA: Project - Jason Lammers


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