A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Blackheath Area 908 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294680, -33.628216

Unique Features And Strengths:

The heart of Blue mountains climbing.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Megalong Valley Crags 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.274991, -33.662966

Description:

All the mini crags in the megalong grouped together

1.1.1. James Bond 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:© (secretary)

This is a collection of crags that are accessed by driving down into the Megalong Valley from Blackheath. In winter they are in the sun all day and are generally protected from the wind.

1.1.1.1. Mr Big Area 11 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (secretary)

Has sun from about 11.30am in winter and is protected from the wind.

Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins.

1.1.1.2. Main Wall 14 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins.

1.1.1.3. The Slab 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins.

1.1.2. The Phoenix 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274787, -33.662685

Description:

Small crag with some unique trad climbs. Finger cracks, and marathon slabbing!

Approach:

TOP ACCESS (NEW) - Medlow Bath ~15min:

Driving West on Great Western Highway, pass through Medlow Bath and bear left just past the Hydro Majestic Hotel onto Belgravia St. Continue straight ahead onto well-maintained dirt road. Just over 1.1km along this track there are two clearings on the left, park at the second clearing (marked with Tan-coloured tape on a tree at the back, a small cairn near the track, and graffiti "AT" on a tree on the left side of the clearing.

Continue down the marked track at the back of the clearing for 200m. When you reach a large fallen tree (marked by tan-coloured tape, and a large cairn on the right), turn right and head down the trail, following cairns, pink marking tape, and red-coloured tape around trees as necessary. At first rocky outcropping, bear left (not right!) as you scramble down (marked) and continue down along rock face. The track cuts right to another rocky outcropping, then makes a sharp turn left (continuing straight ahead up the slab leads to the Archeopterix Rap access - see below) and zig-zags down a gully.

Where the trail flattens out, hug the right rock-wall and head down to an exposed ledge below an arete and a fixed rope. Follow the ledge to the right carefully, scramble down a prominant red dusty chute with help of another fixed rope, continue right to small chossy red cave (good for keeping packs dry). Rack up here, and traverse down and around the right rock-wall via the final fixed rope. At the bolt at the end of this traverse is the first pitch of Archaeopterix (21). Walk a further 8m along this ledge to the anchors for The Phoenix. Rap here 45m to the ground.

Via the Top Access, the area above Archaeopterix Wall (Above The Phoenix proper) can be walked to to allow a rap-in to Archaeopterix, or straight down to The Phoenix. Where the walk in takes a sharp left turn at a prominant tree (cairn) before the final vegetated descent gully, head straight up over the slab, and directly down the bushy hill to the cliff (faint trail, but much vegetation). Near the cliff edge there is a red fixed rope attached to a tree, that leads straight to the rap anchors.

BOTTOM ACCESS - Megalong Valley ~35min:

Overgrown and hard to find. Drive down Megalong Rd and park at the start of the Coachwood Glen 'Nature Trail'. Cross the creek. At the large boulders take the spur up the gully following cairns. At about half height head right into the gully and up to the base of cliff. Head right to the climbs. Watch out for leaches in summer.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Little Drummer Boy

FA: Julian Anderson/Chris Coghill

19Unknown 26m
2 Smoulder 10Trad 10m
3 Firefly

Thin finger crack 10m left of The Phoenix. Has its own lower offs.

FA: Julian Anderson

18Trad 8m
4 * Quetzal

A very long, moderately bold, slightly wandery thin slab that rejoins The Phoenix at its crux (last 8m of climbing) to avoid the nails hard direct finish to the top.

6 draws + Full set of Wires + small cams (to green 0.75), and 1 x #2, and 1x #4/#5 (for The Phoenix).

From the GROUND, start up Firefly, past Firefly anchors WITHOUT re-belaying. Trend right to arete (#2 cam), then up trending left to semi-detached block (Quetzal Bolt #1), then trend right to thin flake system for a move or two, then back left, moving a few metres left at Quetzal Bolt #3), before heading back right past 2 more bolts. At 4th last bolt (Quetzal Bolt #5), move right into The Phoenix, then up The Phoenix to top.

FFA: P. Thomson, 2013

21Mixed 55m, 6
5 * Quetzalcoatl - PROJECT PAUL

PROJECT PAUL - CLOSED PROJECT. The very tough Direct Finish to Quetzal. Where exactly this climb will START from remains to be decided.

Trad Project
6 ** The Phoenix

Long, sustained predominantly finger-crack climb with an exciting finish. Beautifully clean on good rock. Best done as one long 45m pitch (no rope drag). Bring the usually passive pro and doubles of cams 0.3 to 2, and singles 3, 4 and possibly 5. More small gear (0.3 and 0.4 or Aliens) keeps it sane. Be CAREUL of the loose blocks in the back of the off-width section. Crack completely re-cleaned October 2012.

FA: J. Anderson, R. Charlton, 2003

20Trad 45m
7 Shortcut to Exposure

FA: J Anderson, C Coghil

18Unknown 45m
8 * Archaeopterix

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch).

Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area.

P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FFA: P. Thomson, 2013

21Sport 45m, 14
9 * The Firebird - PROJECT PAUL

PROJECT PAUL - CLOSED PROJECT. Relatively easy climbing, in an outrageous position.

Bring 1 x 0.75, 2 x #1, 1 x #2 and 1 x #3 camelots, 6 draws + anchors.

P1 - 20m (15) As for Archaeopterix Pitch 1. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - (25m) Up flake, then hand traverse left. After 3rd bolt, keep going left past 2 more bolts to overhanging arete. Climb arete past 0.75/#1, #2, #1 and #3 cam placements on monster jugs (peek-a-boo) and some suspect rock to top. Bring up second and walk up to anchors above Archaeopterix P2.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your section, and wall directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Mixed Project 50m, 4

1.2. Logan Brae 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257267, -33.670114

Description:© (mjw)

Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.

Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:

  • climbers remain responsible for our own safety,

  • dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and

  • residents rights are respected when it comes to parking.

Access Issues:© (mjw)

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

Approach:© (mjw)

The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and up the hill, at the second power pole on the left park - this is 40m before 'Cliffview'. The track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area (no lazy 'shortcuts, please). The track straight ahead takes you to a very nice little lookout. Please do not park anywhere near 'Berridale' or in front of 'Cliffview'

Less than 10 minutes easy gradient walking track through a beautiful little gully full of native animals and plants (take care with the Sword Grass!).

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

1.2.1. Main Cliff 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gropertron

Start: The first route you come to at the crag, was 27 when it was first freed.

FA: M.Law, 2001

25Sport 15m
2 * Room With a View

The best warm up here.

FA: C.Hale, 1996

22Sport 15m
3 Side Effect

FA: F.Yule, 1995

22Sport 15m
4 ** Surprise Package

soft

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24Sport 17m
5 ** The Never Believers

FA: C.Hale, 1996

23Sport 15m
6 ** Alien Signature

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

23Sport 19m
7 ** Creep Show

FA: F.Yule, 1995

23Sport 18m
8 * Hilti's not Guilty

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25Sport 16m
9 ** Wedding Bell Blues

WARNING 3rd bolt is loose! [Oct 2014: yes its still loose]

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23Sport 12m
10 * Criters

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25Sport 20m
11 ** Kathy K

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25Sport 16m
12 ** Cabbage Power

Start: 'Grovel' through the dirt or Batman!

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24Sport 15m
13 *** Demented Cabbage

Links the start of Cabbage Power into the crux section of Vertical Dementia. Keep going right at 3rd bolt of CP.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

24Sport 20m
14 *** Vertical Dementia

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

24Sport 18m
15 * The Diving Board

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an odd place anchor.

FA: M. File

24Sport 15m
16 * Shaggy D.A.

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23Sport 15m
17 *** Dr Stein

FA: F.Yule, 1995

25Sport 18m
18 ** EIEIO

FA: M.Law, 1999

28Sport 18m
19 ** Strawberry Blonde

FA: M.Baker, 1995

24Sport 18m
20 * Rain Maker

Start: Finish at the giant U.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24Sport 18m
21 *** Flake Maker

Go up Rain Maker and link into Shark pool at the 4th bolt. Finish up Shark Pool.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

25Sport 15m
22 ** Shark Pool

FA: S.Atkins, 1996

26Sport 12m
23 * Elastic Analysis

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23Sport 12m
24 * Post Swing Jitters

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

24Sport 18m
25 Dead Man Walking

Funky 3D climbing

FA: C.Hale, 1996

22Sport 18m
26 ** Hip to the Bumper Crop

Thin, steep and sharp.

Start: The next 2 climbs are about 80m further right from the Main area. They are up in a cavern.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

29Sport 15m
27 ** Big Hit with the Kids

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

29Sport 15m
28 ** The Grit Down Under

Great climbing up a right-hand fused flake, after a cruxy face.

Half-dozen Cams and wires - classic old school Blue Mountains 23 . . . Love it . . .

Start: Find the carrot on the shelf 2/3rds of the way along main wall, and rap in to ledge with big tree. Start in faint corner on left.

FA: Macciza, 2008

23Trad 35m
29 Holey Grit - Project

FA: Zac /Mac, 2000

RTrad

1.2.2. Lower-Again Brae 0 routes in Cliff

Description:© (Macciza)

The lower cliff line below 'Logan Brae' 'Main Wall'

Approach:© (Macciza)

Rap-in then climb out affair.

1.3. Big Top 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257915, -33.646710

Description:© (secretary)

Not the best crag in the area, but in certain conditions it is! On those (very common) winter's days when it's sunny but cold and windy as hell, mornings up at 'Big Top' can be glorious. It's protected from the prevailing westerleys and gets morning sun, making for a lovely little warm microclimate when everywhere else is getting slammed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Not in Front of the Children

Leave the tree alone and head up and right through some rather sandy stuff.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23Sport 35m
2 * Twista

Shares a start with NifotC. Head left around the aret and up.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

23Sport 30m
3 ** Vertical Smile

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23Sport 30m
4 * I've Got 3 Buttocks

new guide

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

22Sport 30m
5 ** Abso Effing Llewdly

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21Sport 25m
6 YonX

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

18Sport 15m
7 * Llewd Dude

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

22Sport 25m
8 ** JinX

Great climb. Probably the best here.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

19Sport 25m
9 * fliX

Start: As for JinX, then left.

FA: M.Pircher, 2004

20Sport 25m
10 * Oddly Bodly

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25Sport 22m
11 * Martin Llewder King

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

24Sport 20m
12 Nudely Rudely

Batman start!

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23Sport 20m
13 * HoaX

Start: Shares a start with HV.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

20Sport 15m
14 ** Hairy Vengeance

Start: Off boulder about 10m right of L.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

22Sport 30m
15 Llewdicrous

Great fun!

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

17Sport 25m
16 * Methane Maestro

Start: Left side of the arete following flakes. This is where the track from the road comes out.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

26Sport 32m
17 ** Buster Gonad

extra ring added 2004

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

25Sport 32m
18 * Blind Fate

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

21Sport 8m
19 ** 21st Century Mucoid Man

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27Sport 40m
20 Once You Bolt Crack You Never Go Back

FA: Nathan Bolton

17Sport 12m
21 ** Praise the Llewd

A bolted crack!

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22Sport 25m
22 ** Llewds Prayer

This wall has been given the name 'The Chocolate 'Crackle' Wall'. Take care.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25Sport 35m
23 ** Why the Long Face?

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25Sport 35m
24 ** Lord Llewd

FA: S.Grkovic, 1998

25Sport 35m
25 * Fruit of my Loins

Start up the block just left of a bushy chimney thing for a few bolts. Then step R across the chimney and traverse 4-5m further R to bypass the band of vegetation. Then up the great arete to a really airy steep finish over the final roof.

Start: Start about 20m down right from where the track leaves the base of the big red wall.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

24Sport 25m
26 *** Funnel to Oblivion

The name says it all!

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 30m
27 ** Rudely Llewdly 24Unknown 27m
28 Mystical Lamb

Lower arete on the boulder. Bouldery start!

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 12m
29 Project

The line of bolts up the line of crazy non-holds, in the middle of the downhill face of the boulder. Bolted by Lee Cossey.

Start: Between TCC and ML.

Sport 14m
30 * The Clumbsy Caterpillar

The higher arete on the boulder

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

30Sport 12m
31 * Gooey in the Wee-wee

Route to the right of the crack. Keep out of the crack!

FA: L.Wishart, 2005

27Sport 12m
32 Kubrick Crack

The crack on the upper side of the boulder

  1. -m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FFA: G Delacy, B Stevens, 1987

18Trad 12m

1.4. Shipley Upper 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271453, -33.638839

Description:

Probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Blue Mountains. It has magnificent views, mostly sport routes, easy access, and great routes from the mid-teens to early 30s. Something for everyone. It faces North-West and gets plenty of sun. Sun hits the crag at 11.30am in summer. In winter you can climb all day with the sun hitting the wall from 9.30am. Location: Access via Centennial Glen Rd. Take the Fire Trail through the gate to get to the Grey Slab end of the crag,or follow the track that heads from the carpark into Centennial Glen. Turn left at the base of the eroded steps and walk through a small glen with an old stone bath in it - Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is usually good to drink - then along the track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. (Right takes you into the Glen or down Centennial Pass to the 'Porters Pass' climbing area).

Approach:© (secretary)

Access via 'Centennial Glen' Rd. You can walk down either end of the crag and both take about the same amount of time so it doesn't really matter which way you go. To get to the right (SW) end of the crag (e.g. Sandwiches Buttress and Grey Slab), take the Fire Trail beyond the locked gate (on the left as you enter the carpark), and follow the fire trail for about 300m through low scrub with fantastic views, down a few short rock slabs with chopped steps, then turn right along the base of the crag. To get to the left (NE) end of the crag (Equaliser/Supercal areas), follow the walker's track that heads straight ahead from the carpark downhill into 'Centennial Glen'. After about 250m this takes you down a short cliffline with chopped/built steps, turn left at the base and walk about 200m to the crag, through a small glen with an old stone bath in it (Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is thought by some to be good to drink - but flows down from Blackheath so think twice), then along the dusty track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. If you turn right at the base of the chopped steps it takes you to Centennial Glen/Porters Pass climbing areas, so it's easy to crag-hop among them all in a single day.

1.4.1. Equaliser Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272442, -33.638345

Description:© (secretary)

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Leaning Power Teaser

Batman start.

Start: About 50m past Cleopatra's Bath and about 80 metres before the fence at the start of Walls Ledge.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25Sport 15m
2 Project

There's a lonely line of spider-webby ringbolts up the wall about 20m L of Pooferator. Bolted by Vince Day and now open? No doubt it'll be hard.

Sport
3 ** Pooferator

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2002

31Sport 15m
4 Truck Stop 31

Links the crux of Poof into the crux of 'Equaliser'.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2004

31Sport 18m
5 *** Equaliser

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

28Sport 20m, 6
6 De-Equaliser

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

28Sport
7 * La Forche Be With You

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

FA: S. Grkovic, 2002

28Sport 18m
8 * The Horseshoe

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

FA: Vince Day, 2009

29Sport 18m, 6
9 * Fabricator

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

FA: B.Littleford

28Sport 18m
10 ** Cagney and Lacey

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap.

FA: Garth Miller, 1998

29Sport 15m
11 ** Demoraliser

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

FA: J.Clark, 2001

28Sport 15m
12 * Iron Mike

The obvious 'line' on the side of the crag. Desperate side pulling. In early 2011 some crux holds came off so now its certainly not soft for the grade.

Start: Start below the right facing corner and seam. Stickclip and batman to first bolt. Use long draws on 2nd & 3rd bolts so your rope doesn't scrub on the flake.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1995

27Sport 15m, 7
13 ** Decodyfier

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Start: Start as for 'Iron Mike'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

29Sport 20m
14 * The Weakest Link

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. Unfortunately a hold has been broken and the climb now is better considered 27. The crux is bolt protected.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27Trad 22m
15 * Slay Ride

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 20m

1.4.2. Golliwog Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271464, -33.638739

Description:© (secretary)

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Isle of the Green-Hatted Wombat

Start: Somewhere about 30m left of Supercal.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

27Sport 25m
2 * Krusty the Climb

Shame about the finish.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1999

24Sport 20m
3 * Grand Junction

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Should get more traffic, the bolts are a bit spaced but it's still just a sport route!

Start: Start up the black's ladder just before (left of) the right hand end of the old railing. The initials "GJ" are painted on the rock 1m left. Stick clip recommended.

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

26Sport 35m
4 ** The Eviscerator

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001

28Sport 30m
5 *** Supercallousfragileextradosage

USE A 60M+ ROPE - at least one climber has gone off the end of their rope on this route and were lucky they didn't go off the 50m cliff below. A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: S. Grkovic, 1999

26Sport 25m, 13
6 ** Silently Flying By

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. Stick clip recommended.

FA: M.Turnbull, 2000

25Sport 25m
7 ** Land of Green Navels

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended. The middle route off this log. Needs plenty of cams to supplement the bolts.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

24Trad 40m
8 *** Alliterating Austrian Ostrich

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

23Sport 30m
9 *** Weak as I am

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall. Start about 15m R of AAA at the next log. Stick clip recommended. After you step L from the shared start, the next 2 bolts are in very weird spots

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

23Sport 22m
10 ** Golliwog Grading / Golliwog Grades

Up the log, then straight up.

Start: Start as for WaIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

23Sport 22m
11 * Displaced Persons

USE A 60M+ ROPE. Good long training route.

Start: Start as for WaIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Moon, J.Smoothy, 1986

24Sport 40m
12 ** Mental Mantle

USE A 60M+ ROPE.

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

23Sport 27m
13 * Dance Like a Mother

USE A 60M ROPE.

Start: Righthand route.

FA: M. Stacey, G. Bradbury, 1992

25Sport 40m

1.4.3. Hot Flyer Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271021, -33.638965

Description:© (secretary)

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Bolt and the Beautiful

Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

25Sport 25m
2 *** Loop the Loop

A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains. Twisties added 2004.

Start: Middle route off the 4th access tree. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (ie the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish if you have good footwork, no regard for your fingertips, and skin to spare.

FA: C. Peisker, T. Williams, 1986

25Sport 25m
3 ** Burning Bridges

Start: 4th access tree.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

25Sport 40m
4 * Barnstorming

Start: As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27Sport 27m
5 Original Hot Flyer / Weekend Warrior

Original start to HF.

Start: As for 'Hot Flyer' but traverse left after the first ring.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

19Sport 15m
6 ** Hot Flyer pitch 1

Rap off after slab

20Sport 18m
7 *** Hot Flyer

Twisties added 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

23Sport 35m
8 ** Hot Flyer Direct Finish

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

22Sport 35m
9 ** Lady Lardy's Lats pitch 1 20Sport 18m
10 *** The Lardy Lady's Lats

Good fun route.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

22Sport 25m
11 ** Jack High

Rap rings are getting worn and sharp. Best to rappel and clean, instead of lowering off. DO NOT TOP ROPE THROUGH ANCHORS.

FA: J.Smoothy,M,Stacey, 1986

19Sport 20m
12 * Flaming Flamingo pitch 1

rap off after slab

20Sport 18m
13 ** Flaming Flamingo

Has anchors at the break. 19 to here.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Peisker,S.Moon, 1985

24Sport 35m
14 * Girly Germs

Start on the left and traverse in - do NOT trample (what's left of) the hanging swamp! Then up, past one quite thin bit.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21Sport 15m
15 * Sexy Mexi

Start: Start as for GG on the left and traverse in - do NOT trample (what's left of) the hanging swamp!

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Baker, 2000

23Sport 15m
16 ** Haunted Night Time Run

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

27Sport 25m
17 Sexy When Slippery

Start: As for Language but traverse left to the 2nd line of rings.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

22Sport 15m
18 Time Slips By

Bolted more than 4 years ago! Has actually been climbed by a number of people who believe a time limit on projects of 3 seasons is enough. Equipped by Dave Stone.

Start: As for Language then traverse left to 1st line of rings.

25Sport 25m
19 *** Language of Desire

Awesome. Ring bolts all the way.

FA: M. Scheel, C. Martin, 1985

24Sport 35m
20 ** A Streaker Named Desire

As for Language but head right. Now has its own anchors. Awesome !!

FA: V.Petersen, 2002

23Sport 25m

1.4.4. War Babies Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.270643, -33.639178

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Form One Lane

Now has its own anchors.

Start: A few metres to the right of Language at the large boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

24Sport 30m
2 * No U-Turn

lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Martin, 1985

24Sport 20m
3 * No Right Turn

Start as for previous route, traverse right to 'War Babies' anchor then up!

FA: G.James, 1985

22Sport 20m
4 * War Babies

Popular.

Start: Right end of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

22Sport 20m
5 Do Androids Like Duckos

Starts just right of 'War Babies' and joins 'War Babies' just before the ledge. Not as good as 'War Babies' and not any easier.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

22Sport 12m
6 The Storm

FA: S Camps, 1986

23Trad 20m
7 Eating Raoul 20Unknown 20m
8 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep 21Trad 20m
9 * Scramble Syndrome

Good moves but the good stuff ends too quickly. Rebolted 2006, this should make it a much more popular climb.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

20Sport 20m
10 Do Androids Care

FA: P Balint, J Reily, 1989

21Sport 15m
11 Stop Throwing Dogs 21Unknown 25m
12 Island of Doubt 21Unknown 23m
13 Pluck the Duck

Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the vegetated ledge.

FA: C.Hale,M.Shipton, 1985

17Sport 12m
14 A Good Day to be a Duck

Start: Carrots to the left of 'Grey Slab' ledge. Popular but stupid! Some idiot 'removed' the bolt on the halfway ledge a few years ago!!

FA: C.Hale,M.Shipton, 1985

17 RTrad 24m
15 The Answer is Obvious

Rebolted June 2006 on rings. Good!

Start: Of the ledge to the left of the dead tree.

FA: C.Martin, 1985

18 to 19Sport 20m

1.4.5. Grey Slab 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.270280, -33.639403

Description:

As its name suggests, it is the prominent grey slab near the descent from the gated Fire Trail at the end of Centennial Glen Rd. Easy routes, some requiring a bit of natural gear. Note the gear is not always good and the runouts could be potentially dangerous. These route were the first in the area and were equipped by people climbing a few grades harder. Needs 'some' sort of a rebolt! Nor a good beginners area unless properly supervised!

Approach:© (secretary)

At the left end of the crag (facing out).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Country Special

Rebolted with SSGIC september 2008

FA: J. Smoothy, F. Lumsden, C. Martin, 1985

19Sport 18m
2 * The Bandoline Grip

Follow the orange streak

FA: C. Martin, J. Smoothy, 1985

18Sport 18m
3 Stormy Monday

Rebolted with SSGIC June 2006.

FA: N. Crabb, 1991

17Sport 18m
4 * Nude Tuesday

The line on rings. Given 18 in the 2007 Edition of Blue Mountains Climbing. Most say 19 / 20.

FA: V.Petersen, 2001

20Sport 20m
5 Burning Jowls

Rebolted 2006.

FA: C. Martin, J. Smoothy, 1985

18Sport 18m
6 Good Fortune

Rebolted on rings June 2006. Stick clip if you are short!

FA: D.Noble, 1990

17Sport 18m
7 Trinity

Bolt+ Lower-offs added 2004

FA: C. Martin, R Chick, 1985

13Sport 18m

1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.269968, -33.639611

Description:© (secretary)

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pompadour

Thanks for the donation of the materials guys - you know who you are. Please make sure to keep off the vegetated ledge on the left (we'll call it an animal and plant refuge, shall we.) This route was originally a solo so bear that in mind whilst climbing it.

FA: C Martin, 1985

13Sport 15m, 10
2 Hold on to Your Hats

Start: On the track 10m down and right from 'Trinity'.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

18Sport 17m
3 These Dogs are Whippets

On carrots, there is a first one hiding above lip. SSCIG's rebotled 2004

FA: A. Farquar, 1989

21Sport 17m
4 *** These People are Sandwiches

One of the more popular Shipley routes. Rebolted 2004.

Start: The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down it's left side. This is it.

FA: C. Martin, A. Penney, 1985

22Sport 15m
5 ** These Sandwiches are Excellent

Start: Through the choss beneath the overhang. On the giant Us.

FA: M.Law, 1994

27Sport 10m
6 * Pallets of Pies

Popular!

Start: Start under the big roof.

FA: C.Peisker, 1985

24Sport 18m
7 ** Pallets of Pies (Variant)

Avoids the crux on PoP by climbing right past two old carrots to a chain.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

22Sport 10m
8 *** Argentine Deadline

Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock, boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to ancors of POPV.

Really great. ONLY ON COACH BOLTS!!! A death route unless the 1st ascentionist thinks it is worthy of proper equipping. He gives it 3*s but why would anyone bother unless it has decent achors in it? Dont 'sue' him just dont get on it unless you know you will not fall!

FA: B.Cossey, 2001

28 XSport 10m
9 * Gallows Humour

Start: At the far right end of the overhang. Starts on the block.

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy, 1985

21 RSport 18m
10 Papist Crop

10m right of Gallows Humour. Stump and wall right of corner

12Sport 15m
11 Steve Grkovic Memorial Thrutch 17Unknown 10m
12 ** Giles Bradbury Memorial Stretch

Start left of steps up roof.

18Sport 5m

1.5. Shipley Lower 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.267809, -33.641556

Unique Features And Strengths:© (secretary)

This crag is a suntrap with the sun hitting the left end (Nikita wall) by 9am, and is also surprisingly well protected from the wind.

Description:© (secretary)

Has a great trad classic and several sport routes which, since recent rebolting, are among the best of their grade in the entire mountains! This is also one of the best winter crags in the upper mountains: apart from a paucity of rain protection it rivals Bowens Ck as one of the best winter choices. When its 8C and blowing 50km/h at Shipley Upper, the base here can still be quite ok! In fact you should avoid this crag if temps go over about 14C because it gets too hot!

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in as for Sail Away Wall to the bottom of the chopped steps and hand rails, then head left (SW) along the base of the cliff for a few hundred metres. For the Clockwork Orange area and beyond, it might be a little quicker to abseil in from below Upper Shipley, but unless you only want to do one route the abseil is arguably not worth the admin now that the track from Sail Away is becoming more well trodden.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Unforgiven

Leftmost route on 'Nikita' wall. 28 if you go direct (after rebolt by Steve G), 27 if you snake around right the original way (by Mikl). Great rock, especially lower half.

FA: Mikl, rebolt and direct variant Steve Grkovic, 2000

27Sport 35m
2 * The Outlaw

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

FFA: S Grkovic, 2008

29Sport 40m
3 ** Nikita

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

Up and right along ramp then up.

FA: J.Smoothy

FA: Mike Stacey did it at 25M1 in the age of lycra, Giles freed the start move, same grade (25)., 2000

25Sport 70m, 16
4 ** Quran Calling

Starts approximately 100m left of Sausages and Lightbulbs, on left side of prominent arete (stay high and traverse along narrow shale ledge beneath undercut just past where the track turns left and climbs down to the lower tier). Gets early morning sun and goes into the shade after lunch.

Batman to the first jug then tip toe and crimp across the ramp and up thin wall to good holds. The climbing now gets easier up the left side long mega arête on bomber orange rock. Doubles of small cams up to .75 and some slings.

Set by Ben JengA., 2013

FFA: Ben Jenga, Paul Thompson, 2013

24Mixed 30m, 12
5 *** Sausages and Light Bulbs

30m and 16 bolts plus anchors to lower offs, 50m up easy slab with a couple more bolts.

FFA: M law, S Johns, S Moon, 1994

24Sport 50m, 18
6 ** Brisket Tugger

Obvious thin face and sexy looking blank corner. A bit glued up, but great climbing. Don't cop out to the arete at the top!

FA: Mikl in his orange spandex days., 1936

26Sport 50m
7 Shaken Not Stirred

Start: 50m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 15m (21) Corner and flake to roof. Out to ledge and belay.

  2. 20m (21) 'Flake' to break. Leftwards, then up right to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Left and out.

FA: T.Williams,J.Smoothy, 1986

21Trad 50m
8 * Hooray for Fish

Long and varied. Not so great as a warm-up!

FA: Chris Cogsy, 2008

22Sport 32m
9 Hot Fan Faronade

Start: 15m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (16) Start near fallen tree. Offwidth. Climb tree to wall above chockstone. Crack and wall to top of flake.

  2. 25m (20) Up ramp and wall to break. Slab to roof. Up.

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney,R.Chick, 1984

20 RTrad 45m
10 Blossoms

Up the tree, right to scoop, right to breaks. Left and up to ledge. Right to slab. up. 2 pitches.

Start: Right of HFF. Near the abseil landing.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

21Trad 50m
11 5 Go Adventuring Again

Start: 13m left of 'Clockwork Orange'.

FA: Bennet,Haines,Myers,Danielle, 1988

20Trad 50m
12 *** Clockwork Orange

Start: Orange corner 55m right of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner to break, left to ledge, wall and stance.

  2. 25m (20) Slab to crack. Corner, around bulge. Crack to ledge. Left along the ledge to groove.

  3. 16m (15) Up the groove.

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

20Trad 61m
13 * Lambeg Drums

Start: As for CO.

  1. 30m (18) As for CO to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Slab, diagonally left slab to arete.

  3. 35m (18) Up onto the slab, left of bulge and up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

18Trad 90m
14 The Prozac Years

3 pitches with a nightmarish mantel at the end of the second pitch. Some of the bolts are dodgy until rebolted.

FFA: G Child, G Bradbury, 1996

25Sport 60m
15 Orange Marmalade

Start: Corner 8m right of CO.

  1. 15m (17) Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (17 M3) Wall to bulge, over this onto ledge and crack. Up to roof, loose (?) flake the ledge below roof. Right to ledge and tree. THIS PITCH MAY HAVE BEEN FREED!

  3. 15m (17) Up wall.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

17 M3Aid 55m
16 Aquapuppy

Start: As for OM.

  1. 20m (20) Corner to traverse. Across roof. Take care! Onto arete to ledge.

  2. 10m (19) Wall and slab. Rap here. OR traverse right to gully.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1988

20 RTrad 30m
17 Rewind

Start: 25m right of CO.

  1. 20m (19) Bulge. Left up crack to ledge. Belay in the gully on the right.

  2. 20m (19) Right around arete, up and right up ramp to ledge under roof. Take care! Up to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1987

19 RTrad 55m
18 * The Flex

Up. Careful with flake. Up, then left to break. Right to arete. Up. Finish as for R.

Start: Faint corner with black wall below flake.

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

23Trad 50m
19 Wildlife

Start: 3m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (21) Faint crack to slab. Belay as for 'Twinkle Toes'.

  2. 30m (21) Up and left. Travers right at steepness to ledge. Up.

FA: S.Moon,B.Cameron, 1986

21Trad 50m
20 Twinkle Toes

Start: 20m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (22) Middle of black wall to ledge, slight left to belay. Take wires!

  2. 20m (22) Slab up and right to tree!

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

22 RTrad 40m
21 Bowstring

Start: 100m RIGHT of CO. White right facing corner.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to offwidth roof. Corner to stance on left.

  2. 30m (18) Right into crack to big slab under roof. Right to break at end of the roof.

  3. 10m (18) Bulge and up.

FFA: W.Baird

FA: (Lassman,Bell), 2000

23Trad 55m
22 Pancho Villa

Start: Yellow roofed corner 12m right of B.

  1. 20m (23) Corner, traverse right to footledge, right along break, up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) Traverse right.

FA: T.Williams,R.Lebreton, 1988

23Trad 30m
23 Caterpillar Girl

Start: Narrow wall 70m right of PV.

  1. 15m (16) Up left side of wall, step right. Up bulge and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Wall and arete.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

17Trad 35m
24 Cindy Sherman

Now, she was a girl...

Start: 10m LEFT of the ESCAPE ROUTE. Corner.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

22Trad 20m
25 Escape Route

The route to do here if you have to! Take care!

Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom.

9Trad 20m
26 The Little Prince

Start: 2m right of ER corner.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

21Trad 30m
27 The Human Factor

Start: 80m right of 'Pancho Villa' at wide crack right of roof capped red wall.

  1. 40m (20) Corner crack 10m, left to centre of wall. Up through breaks to big one below the roof. Left to belay.

  2. 35m (19) Up groove and corner.

FA: S.Moon,G.Moore,C.Martin, 1984

20Trad 75m
28 Slingshot

Start: Finger crack right of THF.

21Trad
29 ** Nuclear Winter

Start: 35m RIGHT of THF. Short steep corner.

  1. 20m (23) Corner to ledge, right and up wall to belay on sloping ledge.

  2. 25m (24) Left, up then traverse to arete. Up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

24Trad 45m
30 Sidewinder

Start: Right of NW. Offwidth.

21Trad
31 The Green Room

Start: Middle of 3 high corner cracks.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

19Trad 30m
32 The Untouchable

Up TGR. Corner to crack. Right to arete. Up.

Start: As for TGR.

FA: T.Williams,G.Bradbury, 1986

21Trad 30m
33 ** St Valentine's Day Massacre

Start: 15m right of 'Sidewinder'.

  1. 35m (23) Stick clip. Follow bolts. Traverse left. Up corner. Take long slings!

  2. 20m (15) Right from belay and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden,T.Williams, 1986

23Sport 55m
34 ** St Clemmen's Crack

Crack right of SVDM

17Trad
35 St Clemmen's Crack Variant

3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires!

Start: At SCC anchor 1.

FA: D.Grey,B.Maxwell,R.Taylor,I.Collins, 1985

18 RTrad 40m
36 ** Psycho Killer

Start: 5m up SCC. Traverse left and up. Finish as for SVDM or rap.

FA: M.Baker,J.Smoothy, 1989

25Trad 35m
37 Whinge, Cringe, Plunge

Start: 10m right of SSC. Grey Wall

  1. 35m (23) Thin crack. Wall to ledge. Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Corner. Take Care!

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

23Trad 50m
38 Quite Effete

Start: Roof crack 30m right.

  1. 20m (20) Up to roof, right 10m, up to break and belay.

  2. 20m (20) Up, left to orange corner/flake. Thin break. Left to arete.

  3. 20m (18) 'Arete' and wall.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

20Trad 60m
39 Southern Closs

Start: From QE anchor 1.

  1. 25m (20) As for QE then right to bolt. To arete and up to ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Straight up.

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

21Trad 60m

1.6. Shipley Plateau 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bite 23Unknown 15m
2 Sugarloaf Lovers 20Unknown 15m

1.7. Centennial Glen 117 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274659, -33.636382

Description:

The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Approach:© (secretary)

The crag is easily accessed by two methods:

  1. Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.

(2) Park in the carpark at the end of 'Centennial Glen' Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at 'Main Wall', 'White Linen', 'Search and Destroy', 'Wave Wall' or 'Woodpecker Wall'. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for 'Junket Pumper' and 'Hip Shake Jerk' sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.

1.7.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.274149, -33.637461

Description:© (secretary)

A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Limp Mode

Start: Batman.

FA: C.Simpson, 1998

26Sport 15m
2 ** Turn Your Money Green

You actually get a 'grade' for the batman! 'Excellent' - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

Start: Batman.

FA: Mitch Warren

25Sport 15m
3 * Jug Addiction

Start: Batman.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24Sport 15m
4 * Rollergirl

Start: Batman. As for 'Jug Addiction'.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23Sport 17m
5 * Wallace Fairweather

Start: Batman.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25Sport 12m
6 * Wank Wank Spurt Direct

The all free version.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

26Sport 15m
7 Wank Wank Spurt

24M0, pulling on the first bolt to reach high jug.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

24Sport 15m
8 * Hip Shake Jerk

25M0. Start as above, pulling on first bolt. Can also be climbed free at 26.

FA: M. Stacey, 1988

25Sport 18m
9 Open Project projectUnknown
10 * Better than a Wank

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser'.

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

26Sport 15m
11 Back Hand Tosser

Keep of the 'Arete'.

23Sport 12m
12 Unknown 24Sport 10m
13 Bevins Effort 22Unknown 5m
14 Einstuevzende Neubautch

Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly up to finish as for HSJ.

FA: G Weigand, 2000

26 M0Aid 15m
15 ** Clutching at Draws

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in. Has been erased?

FA: Gavin Portier

23Unknown 12m

1.7.2. Junket Pumper Area 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275155, -33.636402

Description:

80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Running of the Bowels

Start: If you do the next 2 routes please take care of the vegetation and use the plank. They are both batman starts!

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25Sport 12m
2 ** Roof Raider

Cruise to a horrendous boulder problem.

Start: As for the preceding route.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

29Sport 20m
3 Stealth-Lackin' Sneaky-Snackin'

FA: Lawry Dermody, 2007

30Sport
4 *** Miniskirt

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Cross Larger than Life where it breaches the roof. Continue for several more meters before busting through the roof and leftward up the headwall to double rings.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

29Sport 35m
5 *** Larger Than Life

Up WM for 3 bolts, then left as for BM, then keep going left for miles ... traverse, traverse, traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

31Sport 40m
6 Larger Than Life Extension projectUnknown
7 Brutally Yours 27Sport 18m
8 ** Brutal Movements

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

27Sport 25m
9 *** Wrong Movements

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite.

Start: Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1998

27Sport 20m, 7
10 * Glad Ingram

Partially rebolted 2004, but there's still some old bolts and it has no anchor.

Start: Start as for JP.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24Sport 18m, 8
11 Glad Ingram Direct Start 27Sport 15m
12 *** Junket Pumper

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all.

Start: Start under the line with the biggest holds, just left of the boulder, and right of the weird tree.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24Sport 18m
13 * Alpha Leather

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone.

Start: Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

FA: Garth Miller

31Sport 15m
14 Squid Munching

Stick clip first bolt - you can reach it off the boulder. Short boulder problem to hamstring stretching on jugs. Back jump to clean.

Start: Start off the ground, and not on Alpha Leather!

FA: M.Warren, 2002

24Sport 12m
15 Billy Bunter

Has been rebolted (thanks!). However, the non-ideal positions of the bolts were not rectified; extenders recommended.

Start: Start off the boulder just R of 'Alpha Leather'.

FA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy, C. Cuthbertson, 1988

19Sport 15m, 5
16 Stephen Grunter

Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: J.Dodson, 2001

18 RSport 10m, 5
17 * Dod the Liquid Bunter 4Unknown 12m
18 Billy Snails

Links the start of Liquid snails into Billy Bunter. Heel hook start.

19Sport 15m
19 Liquid Snails 18Sport 12m
20 ** Nightmare Merchant

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible.

Start: Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

FA: B.Cossey, 2002

28 RTrad 7m
21 * Intrepid Hamster

3 tip tearing boulder problems.

FA: N.Marshal, 1997

26Sport 7m

1.7.3. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275017, -33.635302

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ruddy Norry

On carrots, take brackets. They're mostly glue-ins, though. It's a good warm up.

Start: Start as for 'Ratcat'.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1988

22Sport 14m, 4
2 ** Ratcat

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall.

Start: Start 4m right of the arete, at the obvious undercut mantle on the mushroomy thing.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

24 RSport 14m
3 ** Chase the Lady

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous.

Start: Start 2m R of the EiA arete.

FA: M.Radtke, J.Smoothy, 1988

23Sport 14m, 5
4 Ernest the lady / Ernest Lady (linkup)

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of chase the lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

20 to 21Sport 14m, 4
5 * Ernest in Africa

Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought. Not taking away anything from the first ascentionist, of course. Rebolted 2004

Start: Start at the square arete on the R side of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

25Sport 12m
6 * Nev Herrod

Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler,M.Law, 1988

23Sport 12m, 5
7 ** Mostly Harmless

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

29Sport 12m
8 * Iona

A decent bit of climbing.

Start: Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1988

24Sport 12m
9 *** Iona Hairy Sausage (link-up)

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too :)GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

27 RSport 30m
10 *** Madge McDonald

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at it's best.

FA: M. Baker, S. Wythe, 1992

25Sport 12m, 7
11 *** Trix Roughly

Good. One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury, J. Smoothy, 1990

26Sport 12m, 5
12 ** Essentially Trix

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

27Sport 12m
13 ** Bare Essentials

A bit of monkeying around.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26Sport 12m
14 * Barely August / Barely August (Link-Up)

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

27Sport 12m
15 ** August 1914

Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

Start: Start just R of the two wooden posts.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

29Sport 12m
16 * 1914

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

26Sport 12m
17 *** Better than Life

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

32Sport 12m
18 (Bernie Crawley [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

24Sport 15m
19 (Nev Luvs Trix [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

24Sport 12m
20 (Pass the Sausage [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

26Sport 12m
21 Bernie Loves Sausages

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26Sport 18m
22 * Bernie Loves Tofu

As for 'Apraxia', almost to it's 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

28Sport 18m, 4
23 ** Apraxia

Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

Start: Start just R of Padington.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

25Sport 14m, 5
24 Ben McAlpine

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

25Sport 12m
25 ** Padington

Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

Start: Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block).

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

25Sport 12m
26 Horrace Herod

The short right-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

25Sport 12m
27 Hairy Horrace

Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. Clip'n'go anchor.

Start: This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

23Sport 12m
28 Acceptably Hairy

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

23Sport 12m
29 My Crusty Strap-on

Take the gut busting out of 'Acceptably Hairy' and 'Acceptably Cosmic', - quite a lovly warm-up - NOT. Start AH and into the top of AC.

cute. A 'potentially' very dangerous route if you are only climbing 22! RUBBISH!!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

22Sport 8m
30 Acceptably Cosmic

The first climb on the cliff. Rebolted 2004.

Start: This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law

FA: M.Stacey,J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1988

23Sport 10m
31 The Disintegrator / Disintegrator

A short and not particularly nice route. Beware the name.

Start: Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

24Sport 7m
32 * Unplugged

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

27Sport 8m
33 ** Touch and Go

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

27Sport 10m
34 Anal Palm

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

34Sport 10m
35 Project (Saxon) projectUnknown
36 ** Hello, Leafy Green

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

23 RSport 7m
37 *** Bowl of Milk

The left hand line in this fiesty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt ancor.Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

33Sport 6m

1.7.4. White Linen Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274387, -33.635921

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dr Foopsickle

Rebolted 2004

Short n sweet

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1988

20Sport 8m
2 ** Levitation

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

FA: J.Scarborough, 2001

29Sport 10m
3 *** Moonshadow

Start: up levitation then move rightwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

FA: Garth Miller

33Sport 20m
4 *** Search and Destroy

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

FA: Lee Cossey

32Sport 10m
5 *** Der verrück schtark junge jakey b

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

FA: ben cossey., 2006

30Sport 15m
6 ** Inertia

FA: L.Cossey, 2001

30Sport 10m
7 ** Project

FA: P.Sage, 2000

Sport 12m
8 * White Linen

Rebolted 2004. Apparently its only 27 if you dont clip the third bolt! Not climbed for few years because of this, but a great cimb never the less! There is a slight right hand varient that AVOIDS the crux and the best moves which makes the climb a 'comfortable' 26! What stupidity!!

FA: M. Baker, K. Carrigan, 1992

27Sport 14m
9 ** NLJ

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1998

24Sport 10m

The next three routes start about 25m L of White Linen and share the same start.

10 *** Better than Nothing

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26 for ever until the GYM junkies arrived!

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

FA: M. Baker, 1998

27Sport 15m
11 ** Tutu-sullied Flesh

A good fun gymnastic route by all accounts.

Start: Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of the first routes in this area.

FA: S. Johns, 1992

29Sport 15m
12 ** Temptation

Hard stuff.

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh.

FA: L. Cossey, 2002

30Sport 15m
13 * Better than Chocolate

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

23Sport 12m
14 Nappies Patrique?

FA: M. Law, 1995

26Sport 10m

1.7.5. Wave Wall 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273752, -33.636677

Description:© (aca_admin)

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jaws

Although it is not a particularly pleasant climb, it is the easiest warm-up here abouts. Considered solid at the grade, but soloed by stronger climbers. Rebolted 2004

FA: Frey Yule

21Sport 15m, 4
2 Off the Lip

FA: S. Richardson, F. Yule, 1992

23Sport 15m
3 *** Rubber Lover

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

25Sport 20m, 5
4 *** Say Cheese and Die Mother F***er

Extension to Rubber Lover.

I hear you say extension to RL? 'Impossible', but one man had the curry to stand against tradition.

Start: Start as for RL.

FA: rowan druce., 2004

26Sport 12m
5 * Microwave

Another wave wall classic. Apparently used to be 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

FA: M. Baker, 1992

30Sport 25m
6 ** Staring At The Sea

Finish as for 'Tsunami', not Tugboat.

Start: Start as for 'Microwave'.

FA: G. Miller, 1998

32Sport 25m
7 ** Point Break

3m L of Microwave to join at its flake.

FA: L. Cossey, 2000

31Sport 20m
8 *** Tug Boat

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Starin at the Sea at the rest hole. Form there bust straight up instead of going left into 'Tsunami', chug out the roof and finish at the top.

FA: zac vertrees, 2006

32Trad 15m
9 *** Tsunami

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

29Sport 25m, 8
10 *** Birthday Salmon (variant)

Radness start to 'Tsunami'.

Start: Start just right of Smoked Muscles and boulder you way into the first hard bit of 'Tsunami'.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey. Done on my birthday., 2004

29Sport 15m
11 ** Smoked Mussels

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of 'Tsunami' then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

FA: Mark Baker

26Sport 12m, 4
12 *** New England Clam Chowder (link-up)

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2004

29Sport 10m
13 ** Sea Air

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts.

FA: M. Baker, 1997

28Sport 10m
14 ** Jaqueline Hyde

Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

24Sport 15m, 6
15 * Puddles

Extention of Jaqueline Hyde

FA: Toby Benham

26Sport 15m
16 *** Split Wave

Possibly the most popular route at the crag. Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof.

FA: D. Noble, 1990

23Sport 20m
17 * Shore Break

Punchy crimping to ledge then steep and tricky.

Start: Start just L of SW.

FA: W. Payton, 1992

24Sport 15m
18 * Cold Water Classic

FA: W. Payton, 1992

25Sport 15m
19 Hang Five

This is a chop route until the shit bolts are replaced.

FA: M. Pircher, Z. Vertees, 1997

21 XSport 15m, 5
20 * The Tube

The groovy traverse on the far left side of wave wall. Good name.

FA: K. Klein, W. Payton, 1992

24Sport 12m
21 ** Salubrious Sewerage

Start: About 15m L of 'The Tube'.

FA: M. Adams, S. Bell, 1997

27Sport 10m

1.7.6. Woodpecker Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273152, -33.636557

Description:© (secretary)

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

Approach:© (secretary)

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Watch It Grow

FA: J.Clark, 1997

24Sport 10m
2 ** Crash Bandicoot

FA: C.Simpson, 1999

26Sport 10m
3 Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport 10m
4 * No More Growth

FA: C.Hale, 1997

24Sport 10m
5 ** Two Little Boys

Needs rebolting.

FA: Pommies, 1992

22Sport 18m
6 * Woodpecker

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

22Sport 18m
7 Underwater Love

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

23Sport 18m
8 Duracell Bunny (aka Milky Jugs) / Milky Jugs

Start as for 'Underwater Love' then left.

FA: S.Bell, 2005

21Sport 15m
9 Something Void

Requires a #4 Friend. Scary.

FA: G.Fieg, 1991

22Trad 20m

1.8. Porters Pass 83 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271814, -33.635015

Description:© (secretary)

A great climbing area skirting the bottom of a huge cliffline. The area is actually on Collier's Causeway at the bottom of Cenntenial Pass.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park in 'Centennial Glen' Rd and take the stairs down to the junction of the Wall's Ledge (left) and 'Centennial Glen' (right) track. Turn right past desecrated cave. Take the lower track down through the pass (Centennial Pass, down stairs, left past the 'slippery dip'. At the bottom turn left, through fence' for 'Sail Away' area or cross the creek onto Collier's Causway. The first area you come to is the 'Dogs,Cats & Apples Wall'.

1.8.1. Rough Trade Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.638055

Description:

This is the area on the other side of the waterfall, past Sail Away Wall. Lots of rock, but not much of it really works ... with one stonking exception. Nikita Wall used to be included here, but this was a duplicate of the same info in the Lower Shipley section. Rough Trade Wall should probably be considered to extend from the waterfall for about 150m further right, until about 50m left of Unforgiven.

Approach:

Walk down as per Sail Away Wall, but instead of traversing onto the ledge, turn left along the base of the crag, 6m below the Sail Away routes. The track along here is well trodden these days. Follow it for 50m until you pass the waterfall and there you go.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Valley View

Rap in and climb the wall below the left end of upper shipley, start from the hanging belay above the lip of the roof. Exposed. Don't bother.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1991

16Sport 25m
2 ** Not as Thick as Some

Obvious thin seam visible from 'Chook Lotto' area

Start: Right side of cave just before 'Rough Trade'. Bolt at start.

  1. -m (- M7) Aid through concave roof on RURPs.Good cams when you finally reach the lip then up to bolt and piton belay. Potential groundfall territory for both leader and seconder. Be very careful.

  2. -m (- M6) Left then up fractured seam past bolt then rurps, peckers etc to belay.

  3. -m (- M6) Up twin cracks, rurps/peckers then thru roof on good pins to easy headwall (Unless it's raining) to ledge and small cave. Gear belay.

  4. -m (-) Easy scramble to top finishing at 'Shipley Upper' track where it reaches the cliff.

FA: Julian Bell / Macciza, 2000

M7 XTrad
3 *** Rough Trade

Classic test piece? Giles never really believed he could climb as hard as he STILL does.

Start: About 50m to the right after the waterfall.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1987

26 to 28Sport 30m

Another 150m further right is Nikita Wall - this is described under "Shipley Lower".

1.8.2. Sail Away Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273309, -33.637341

Description:

Soaring orange wall to the left of the stairs at the base of Centennial Pass.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Myriad Armchair Yearning

Starts 2/3 of the way down the stairs before the base of Centennial Pass.

FA: B.Cossey, 2009

29Sport 20m
2 *** Wipe Out

An awesome route, with an infamous runout finish.

Start: This is the leftmost route on the ledge, about 20m right of the chopped steps.

FA: G.Bradbury ,C.Peisker, 1985

25Sport 30m, 8
3 ** My Pheramone

A very impressive line through the biggest part of the huge roof above Wipeout, 40m above the ground. Back-jump to clean or top out, untie and leave your draws there!

Start: Start above and left of the final bolt on 'Wipe Out'.

FA: Lloyd Wishart

28Sport 20m
4 ** Sail Away

Another excellent long route, with a confounding crux. Originally 24 but confirmed 26 these days and even so its not soft. And once you do link past the crux... keep your wits about you on the technical finish! Start 5m R of WO.

FA: G.Bradbury, M.Colyvan, 1985

26Sport 30m, 9
5 * Free Willy

If 'Sail Away' is a cruise then do the obvious to the top of the cliff!

Start: As for SA. Break right through overhang to the top of the cliff. Hands on top! The climb was a long and most likely stressful piece for the first ascentionist. Do it in style!

FA: N.Campbell, 2006

28Sport 35m
6 * Fumble Factor

FA: M.Law, 2002

26Sport 18m
7 *** Black Heathen

finishes at the lower set of anchors

FA: M.Law, 1992

24Sport 35m
8 ** Black Heathen (extended) 27Sport 42m
9 ** Returnity

Start: Start 0.5m R of B.

FA: M.Law, 2002

28Sport 20m
10 ** Where Do the Geckos Go

Parts of it may have been rebolted. Take care if you do decide to do this route.

Start: Start 1m R of B.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

21 RTrad 25m
11 Project - Lee Sport Project
12 Little Empty Boat

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran.

FA: Vince Day

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2012

33Sport
13 Project - Rowan Sport

1.8.3. Self Portrait Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.273029, -33.637053

Description:

Shaded grey wall across Centennial Creek and on a small ledge above the track. For Chook Lotto, Done Roamin' and Chook Raffle stay on the track until just before it turns the corner.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Physical Jerks

Apparently very good - "if you have the nerves." The traverse bolts have been re-positioned, but the top is still a little run out... unless you take a cam.

Start off the same ledge as 'Vanity Case' but traverse leftwards for 10m off the ledge, then up. Put extenders/rollers on bolts 3-6.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986

25Trad 45m
2 *** Vanity Case

One of the classic Mountain hardies. A good route on good rock.

Start: Start on the high ledge about 20m right of 'Chook Raffle'. 'Access' by climbing up near the creek.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986

28 RSport 30m
3 * Self Portrait with Pipe and Bandaged Ear

Blasts straight up the awesome wall. Treat the grade with suspicion.

Start: Start as for 'Vanity Case'.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

28Sport 30m
4 ** Self Portrait

Even better than Vanity Case? 'Fantastic' rock.

Start: Start as for 'Vanity Case'.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1993

29Sport 30m
5 * Chook Lotto

A neat sport route, with really enjoyable climbing and rock. Marred only by an ugly and desperate little move at the start. Used to have loose bolts but these have been fixed (as at 2014).

Start: Start in the obvious corner.

FA: John Smoothy, 1992

23Sport 20m
6 ** Done Roamin', Done Carin', Done Livin'

Apparently ok, but rarely done.

Start: Start right of 'Chook Lotto', off the same boulder.

FA: The first ascent was led on sight with skyhooks, teeth, and little bolts that fell out on a bitterly cold day in June. Mark Radke, Jane Cooksey, Mike Law., 1988

25Trad 25m
7 * Chook Raffle

Desperate arete hugging.

Start: Start a few metres right of 'Chook Lotto'.

FA: Greg Child, Mike Law, John Smoothy, 1992

26Sport 25m

1.8.4. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272500, -33.636935

Description:

The first wall on the right as you break into the sunlight. The routes from 'So, Said the King through to Aniseed Arete' are on a ledge above the track the others start on track level.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Apron Strings

The crack and slab at the left end on the wall. Has a lower off of sorts.

FA: L.Nordick, 1991

18 RTrad 40m
2 * Thrust Gut

Starts on the path below the Dogs, Cats and Apples ledge and finishes up sstk. Soft tick

FA: Greg Childs

26Sport 20m
3 ** So Said The King

3 stars?! what the? ...yet another example of why you should never believe the FA's write-up.

Start: Left hand route off the ledge.

FA: Mitch Warren

21Sport 20m, 8
4 * Sparkle Motion

Keep of 'Nylon Happy' to earn the grade and another star.

FA: Claw

25Sport 15m
5 ** Nylon Happy

Rebolted 2004.

Start: Start under the crack/seam in the middle of the wall.

FA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, M. Radke, 1988

22Sport 20m
6 ** These Apples Must Be Jen's

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, 1991

24Sport 20m
7 ** These Dogs Must Be Pru's

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, 1991

27Sport 20m
8 ** Ness is Best

FA: Mike Law

25Sport 20m
9 ** These Cats are Full Of Milo

FA: M.Warren, 2003

23Sport 20m
10 ** Dragon's Egg

Has been retro-bolted with ring bolts and has a new finish out to the left after rooflet.

Start: 3m right of Ness is Best, by the tree.

FA: M Radke J Cooksey, 1988

23Sport 25m
11 * Flirting With the Spanish Dancer

Rebolted 2004

FA: J.Smoothy, 1995

23Sport 20m
12 * Powerbra Rangers

A good way to ease into this little wall. Has a couple of extra bolts so no longer run out

FA: 2003

19Sport 23m
13 Honeycomb

A bit of an unknown quantity. be solid at the grade an know Bluey's rock.Requires gear and wanders about. 3 pitches.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

14 RTrad 70m
14 * Nice Vice Baby

Climb next to Powerbra Rangers.

1m right of Honeycomb, bolt at start for belayer,start off ledge and follow bolts to roof, pull around roof to DBB.

FA: V Peterson, 2010

20Sport 20m
15 * Chester and Jean

Scramble along ledge to BRs

  1. 80m (20) Up through over hang and jughaul to belay ledge.

  2. -m (-) Wander about through easy territory past BRs on the left side of arete to belay.

  3. -m (-) Walk of to 'Woodpecker Wall'.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1997

20Sport 80m
16 Aniseed Arete 12 M3Aid 82m

1.8.5. Chasing Amy Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272079, -33.636224

Description:

The next wall along the track (Collier's Causeway). the routes start on a ledge above the track, Chasing Amy is the 'seam' on Fixed Hangers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1800Traverse

Starts as for CA then traverses left as far as possible.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

19Sport 20m
2 Angry Beaver

Start as for Ca then left.

FA: S.Moon, 2000

21Sport 20m
3 Pussy Wallow

Careful on the unnecessary runouts, there's some ledge fall potential down low.

Start: Start as for CA.

FA: M.Law, 2000

22Sport 20m, 5
4 *** Chasing Amy

Straight up the wall following seam in centre of wall. On fixed hangers.

FA: J.Smoothy, G,Short, 1997

21Sport 22m
5 ** Cutopia

Crimpy Slab

FA: M.Law, 2000

23Sport 20m
6 ** Spread 'em Baby

FA: V.Petersen, 2000

22Sport 25m
7 Tricky Dicky 15Unknown 44m

1.8.6. Sesame Street 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.272041, -33.636092

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Escape Velocity

Start as for Sesame St - marked on the boulder. Then straight up and to the left of 'La La Land'. Finishes at LLA anchor.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

24Sport 20m
2 *** La La Land

Has become a favorite for aspiring 24 leaders.

FA: S.Moon, 2000

24Sport 25m
3 ** Legoland

Used to have a runout but now eliminated by an extra bolt.

FA: Chris Coghill

22Sport 27m
4 * Sesame Street

Should be rebolted - retro that is!

Start: At groove 10m left of waterfall. Marked SS.

  1. 70m (21) Climb to ledge, move right and belay.

  2. -m (-) Corner to flake, up and right to crack and flake. Belay on ledge.

  3. -m (-) Turn roof and belay at TREE above!

FA: G.Child,G.Bradbury, 2000

21 RTrad 70m
5 * Sesame Street P1 21Unknown 25m
6 * Shocking Pocket Monster

Shallow corner just after the waterfall. Apparently the 'original' start of the FFA of 'Sesame Street'!

FA: V.Petersen, 2000

22Sport 15m
7 The Bevanator

Heinous boulder problem.

FA: B.Ashby, 2010

27Sport 10m

1.8.7. Thrustblock Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.271695, -33.635566

Description:

There is a steep track down and around the corner from Sesame St Area that head`up towards the great chimney - Thrustblock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wichetty Grub Chimney 15Unknown 50m
2 Project (Moss-1)

A direct middle section of 'the mind boggles'

Set by S.Moon

projectUnknown Project
3 ** Damian's Effort 23Sport 20m
4 *** The Mind Boggles

Start: 'Small' shaded wall about 50m before the track up to SSCC4. The chossy offwidth crack corner type thing to the left is 'Thrustblock 80m M5'.

FA: D.Taylor, 2001

23Sport 40m
5 *** Thrustblock

Trad territory - Was 18M5

Full Rack of Cams plus med -large wires.

Start: On the other side of buttress from HR Huge offwith corner chimney - marked.

Original aided up seam. Free version tackles offwidth and left roof.

FA: Bell, 2000

FFA: Darragh, 2006

24Trad 85m
6 Viva La Vioxx

Start as for Thrustblock, traverse out across left wall to arete and up it.

FA: Z.Vertrees, D. Taylor, 2010

25Sport 70m
7 The Left Hand Path 19Unknown 82m

1.8.8. SSCC4 Area 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271267, -33.635085

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Descartes 16Unknown 68m
2 Deep Sea Diver

Take some gear

Start: Batman to carrot on arete 3m left of Pyro. Follow carrots.

FA: J.Pearson, 1988

24Aid 40m
3 Pyro

Corner and little roof to belay.

Start: This is the corner at the left hand end of the SSCC4 slab.

FFA: R.Reynolds

FA: D.Klees,G.Wurth, 2000

23Trad 70m
4 * Destination Void

the Route to the left of SSCC4. very trad

FA: mark radtke jsmoothy, 1988

23 RTrad 25m
5 *** SSCC4

Sustained slab. 2 pitches both 25m. Has been rebolted to an extent.

FA: M.Law,D.Whitehouse, 1993

24Sport 50m
6 *** Bareback P1 22Sport 25m
7 *** Bareback

Very good. Has 2 totally different pitches.

Start: Left of Excaliber. The Line on ring bolts.

  1. 27m (22) Very trad. Corner to faint arete.

  2. 20m (25) One of the best aretes in the mountains!

FA: V.Peterson, S. Clark, 2004

25Sport 47m
8 ** Excelsior

Crake and groove. Overgrown. Would probably be quite good with a few litres of 'Round Up'. Dont you Dare! Marked. Note : is M4. A version (?) of this route has been freed by Lee Cossey in 2004.

Start: 50m, pitch 1 20? pitch 2 22?, belay on 'Bareback' rap anchor, not so dirty. all natural pro except anchor, can climb and rap on a single 60m rope, start either as for 'Bareback' and head right unprotected on solid rock or start as for excelsior a bit choss. h

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

FFA: (?) Lee Cossey, 2004

16 M4 RAid 72m
9 ** Containment Line

Starts right of 'Excelsior', up chossy arete to awesome face on fixed hangers (red). 'Excellent' climbing! has a bit of reinforcement at the top.

FA: G.Childs, 2002

27Sport 25m
10 ** Excalibur

Chimney through jungle. Has 2 pitches and a carrot up ther somewhere. M2

FA: K.Bell, R.Lassman, 1972

18 M2 RAid 72m
11 ** Soul Catcher

Through choss - bolted and up to a belay. then head up a scary arete. Barndoor all the way!

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

25Sport 70m
12 ** Lucifer's Hammer

Start as for SC. Good clean fun. The face to the right of SC.

FA: M.Radke,J.Smoothy, 1988

25Sport 60m
13 * Hazard Reduction

Start as for SC but stay lower through choss and head for arete. Up the arete to chain.

FA: G.Childs, 2002

25Sport 30m
14 Bewt Root 19 M1Aid 92m

1.8.9. The Birdcage Area 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271988, -33.631938

Description:

About 400m or so along the Causeway and up through the bush above the track. The Birdcage is the big guano plastered corner.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project - Marco

Left of the access route.

Sport
2 Twisted Reality

10m left of the Birdcage. First pitch can be used to access the ledge above.

FA: Vince Day, 2000

FA: R.Bombala, V.Day, 2007

28Sport 55m
3 *** Arch Enemy

Position Plus!! Corners,face, roofs,slabs... what more do you want!!

Start: Climb Twisted Reality first pitch at 22 (35m), starts 10 metres left of 'Birdcage'. Traverse right across unprotected ledge to belay stance on ledge below overhung corner

FA: Adrian Laing, 2007

27Sport 25m
4 Project Sport
5 Final Flight

Up project to 2nd bolt then right to scoops and arete.

FA: C.Coppard, 2007

27Sport 20m
6 The Birdcage 16 M0Aid 79m
7 Project (Lee) projectUnknown
8 *** Pitch Blank

Three great pitches, varying in style.

Start: Start 3 meters right of The 'Birdcage'.

  1. 25m (24) A little sparsly bolted but well within the capability's of anyone up for the next pitch. Trend right following 5 rings to the belay.

  2. 12m (30) Very thin on beautiful rock. Up three bolts then right past another two, ignore the direct finish unless you are after a mighty challenge. Onto the grey rock and into belay cave.

  3. 20m (23) Lovely way to finish it off. Follow rings up headwall and over the top to rap chain.

FA: Lee Cossey, Andy Richardson, 2006

30Trad 57m

1.8.10. Rehab Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.272171, -33.627264

Description:

The obvious boulder on the right hand side of the track just after you cross the creek (opposite side to the stairs.).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rehab

Repeated Start at far right end of the boulder, traverse left to opposite end (at tree). Stays mid/low. 22 moves.

FA: Christopher Welsh, 1999

V3Boulder

1.9. Gateway & Fort Rock 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.631589

Description:© (secretary)

Two small upper cliff outcrops with some surprisingly good rock by Blueys standards, although also with a few snappable edges still lurking.

Access Issues:© (secretary)

You can come in from Thirroul Ave along what looks like a bush track, but this actually involves trespassing on the school land.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in from Bundarra St for 10 mins to Fort Rock, then continue west down the hill to a track / firebreak which contours around the hill. Fort Rock Crag is the first on the left about 200m from Fort Rock, or continue another 300m to the Gateway walk down.

1.9.1. Fort Rock Crag 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272447, -33.632532

Description:

Not to be confused with Fort Rock, which is the 4m high rock outcrop / lookout at the top of the hill at the end of the Fort Rock walking track. While not a new crag it seems to have been forgotten about, which is a shame as the routes are quite good. Especially if you need a better warm up for Gateway than a tweaky 24. Crag faces west-southwest and is slightly overhung, so its shady until mid arvo. Apart from one route all the routes need some trad gear. And rebolting!

Approach:

About 300m from Fort Rock, walk down at the North end of the crag. The track is faint, bring clippers and make some cairns to help prevent track braiding.

Descent Notes:

The two central routes share lower-offs, the rest you have to top out then walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Company C

No anchor - either top out or veer 5m R to the DRB above RtA.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22Trad 16m
2 ** Remember the Alamo

The middle route with good shiny FHs and lower-off.

FA: John Smoothy G.Williams, 2002

23Sport 15m, 7
3 * F Troop

The route on old rusty carrots just right of the centre of the crag and the FHs. Juggy start (medium cams) to high BR, then nice wall climbing past another 3 BRs to trad finish (#2 Camalot + medium wire). Use shared lower-off with Remember the Alamo.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22Mixed 16m, 4
4 * Cheddar

Old carrots, trad in between, and no lower-offs. Looks like it would be quite good if all this got fixed.

FA: M.Wilson, 1989

22Trad 16m
5 * Rogue Fort

Old carrots, trad in between, and no lower-offs. Looks like it would be quite good if all this got fixed.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1989

21Trad 16m

1.9.2. Gateway 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272713, -33.631058

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tower of Orthank

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 6m
2 Smooth & Crunchy

Used to go all the way to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century., 2000

18Sport 6m
3 *** Image Magic

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 12m
4 *** Next Dimension

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 12m
5 ** Gateway

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

28Sport 10m
6 ** Enemy at the Gate

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

FA: J.Clark, 2003

26Sport 10m
7 ** Super Sprinkle Cake

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

FA: G.Miller, 2004

28Sport 18m
8 *** Middle Earth

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29Sport 10m
9 *** Double Adapter

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

31Sport 15m
10 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project

FA: Step up and fight. A FA means nothing if you don't 'let' someone on it, 2000

Sport
11 *** Fighting Urak – Hai

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

30Sport 10m
12 *** The Amateur

The best warm up here.

FA: A.Watts, 2004

24Sport 12m
13 ** The Professional

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

28Sport 15m
14 ** De Art

Around the corner in the White Cave.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27Sport 8m

1.10. Celebrity Crag 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271798, -33.627724

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project (Frey) projectUnknown
2 ** Good but Fucking

FA: S. Steward, 1995

20Sport 15m
3 ** Blah Blah Woof Woof

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23Sport 15m
4 ** 0055 Hot Wet Action

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23Sport 15m
5 * Truly Madly Deeply Steeply

FA: S. Steward, 1995

21Sport 15m
6 ** Geek Heathen

FA: J. Clark, 1996

23Sport 15m

Jimmy Cliff

The following climbs are found by walking carefully around the path and to the left via a narrow cut-out ledge.

7 ** Mr Christmas Poo

FA: J. Clark, 1995

20Sport 15m
8 * Butt Nuggets

Lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Kurko, 1995

19Sport 15m
9 * Johnny's Jalopies

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18Sport 15m, 7
10 Mr Scumbag

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18Sport 15m
11 Anal Leakage

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

19Sport 12m
12 * Hark! The ..

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

20Sport 12m
13 * Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

23Sport 12m

1.11. Heathcliff 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.268980, -33.627315

Description:© (rogerb)

Mainly sports routes plus a few classic cracklines.

Approach:© (rogerb)

On the cliffline below the minor celebrities. This is the big one that Cathy had the hots for, and with good reason.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Unearthed 20Trad 110m
2 ** Unearthed DF

P4. Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger, D Smith, 2004

18Trad 25m
3 * Worrying Heights 22 M1Aid 110m
4 Blind Leading the Blind 22Trad 30m
5 Unnamed 20Trad 20m
6 Savage Bliss

3 pitchs

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

FFA: 2007

25Trad 60m
7 *** Spurs of Barren Jangling

Up the middle of the middle (See guide book for remaining routes on this cliff).

Start: At the bottom of the middle. Left of the "project" shown as the leftmost route in the 2007 guidebook topo.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

23Sport 35m
8 Pete Rhodes 19Sport 25m
9 Hawk's Nest 23Sport 22m
10 ** Ricardo Lagos 22Sport 20m
11 Dan Rampe 22Sport 20m
12 ** Spook

crack to chains

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

20Trad 25m
13 * A Bit like the Grose
  1. Start as per the rift, a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

20Sport 60m, 10
14 *** The Rift

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19Sport 55m
15 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) 18Sport 25m
16 *** The Rift Pitch 2 19Sport
17 * The Rift Pitch 3 18Sport 20m
18 * Wise Crack

Start: Just left of the block.

FA: R Dunn, I Valenta, 2004

20Trad 25m
19 ** Chip Off the Old Block

Start: Off the top of the block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19Sport 25m
20 * 14 Carrot Gold

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

17Trad 35m
21 * Plumbers Crack

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for COtOB

Start: Start at obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun, I Valenta, 2004

19Trad 26m
22 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

22Sport 20m, 8
23 *** Thing 2

Good!

All Carrots

Start: 15m right of T1

  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

22Sport 65m
24 *** Thing 2 - Pitch 1

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

22Sport 20m
25 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2)

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

20Sport 48m
26 * Thing 1

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

21Trad 60m
27 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1)

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

20Trad 28m
28 ** Pumpkin Puree
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

22Sport 50m, 10
29 *** Leighsageezer

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

23Sport 60m
30 ** Leighsageezer Pitch 1 22Sport 25m
31 ** Bad Blood

Start: Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose Rock

  1. 25m (19) HArd move of ground the up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

22Sport 40m
32 * Bad Blood P1

FA: 2004

19Sport 25m
33 * Fake Blood

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath, Tony Williams, 2003

18Sport 20m
34 * Boadicea

2 pitches, top out.

FA: G.Short

18Sport 75m
35 * Milarepa

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

13Trad 30m

1.12. Atlantis 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.315010, -33.608713

Description:© (mjw)

A lost world. Protected from the wind and sunny. Good for mid winter. Can be hot as hell in the summer!

Useful Info: Many of the bolt are working themselves loose so take care. If you want to do the easy climbs above the 'Dust Bowl' you will need to climb eithwe 'Hillbilly' or 'He-Man'!

Approach:© (mjw)

Drive down Hat Hill Rd past the emergency airfield (big sandy area on the left) the road turns to dirt here. Turn left at the next road - Godson Ave. Park on the right at the obvious bend. Take the fire trail until it runs out, head left (there is a track going straight ahead) follow track down below first small cliff then right around the small cliff to pick up track again. Fixed ropes down second small cliff, then right under cliff and above Hat Hill Creek. Continue past first 3 routes for 15m to steel rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Herminator

Start: The far lefthand route on the ledge. Watch out for the bees!

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

25Sport 23m
2 *** Highside

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

23Sport 23m
3 ** Hoderlump

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24Sport 23m
4 ** Hysteresis

needs new bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1997

23Sport 23m
5 * Histrionix

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

22Sport 23m
6 ** Hisbollah

FA: M.Pircher,J.Smoothy, 1997

24Sport 12m
7 * Hillbilly

Start: The 1st route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

24Sport 15m
8 ** He-Man

Steepness.

Start: In the cave. Traverse to arete and up.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

26Sport 15m
9 *** She Male

Steepness Plus.

Start: As for He Man but straight out through the roof.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 15m
10 * The Fat Controller

Start: Batman. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

29Sport 20m
11 Nancy Boy

Extension is open for takers.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 15m
12 * Leftism

Start: Above small boulder to the left of the access point. Traverses left.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24 RSport 18m
13 ** Forever Midnight

Start: As for L but straight up.

FA: Derek Toulalan

27Sport 20m
14 Funk Soul Brother

Traverse.

Start: Traverse from 'Hillbilly' anchors right. 'Access' for the next 3 routes.

FA: M.Pircher,S.Grkovic, 1999

18Sport 12m
15 * Kung Fu Fighting

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22Sport 12m
16 * Fast as Lightning

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23Sport 12m
17 * A Little Bit Frightening

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23 RSport 12m
18 Project 1 projectTrad
19 * Gluten Glutton

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25Sport 15m
20 * The Diary of Ann Spank

FA: S.Steward, 1998

24Sport 15m
21 * Rooky of the Year

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24Sport 15m
22 * Strutt Your Funky Stuff

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23Sport 15m
23 * Who the Fuck is Alice?

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23Sport 15m
24 * Greg's Route

1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope.

FA: J.Grant, 1998

22Sport 15m
25 Project (John) projectUnknown
26 Wingman Anytime

Start: Lefthand route on the ledge proper.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21Sport 15m
27 Bullshit Iceman

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22Sport 15m
28 Twenty Something

FA: S.Steward, 1997

23Sport 15m
29 Eurotic

Start: Righthand route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22Sport 15m
30 Driving the Fat Farang

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

20Sport 13m
31 Same Same But Different

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22Sport 13m
32 Subwoofer

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

19Sport 13m
33 Project Trad

1.13. Hat Hill Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

West facing cliff in progress.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors on all routes.

History:

Neil and co weren't the first visitors this to cliff. They found one old FH and dynabolt and some ringbolt notches on the left wall - circa 2000s?

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Mad Hatter

Starts at left edge of cave, on the right side of the orange overhung wall. Undercut start then up slopers to big break. Big reach to next break then hand traverse left across jugs to crux move going back up again. Finish up sustained edges then easier ground.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 17m, 8
2 ** Fedora

Central line of the overhung orange wall. Starts just right of small tree growing at base of cliff. Sustained pumpy climbing on mostly big jugs. Runout to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

22Sport 18m, 8
3 Charcoal Is The New Black

New jenga project in the works.

Hard move up the mini arete to start then traverse right under the roof for 5m then let the big dynamic moves start. Bolting in progress.

Sport Project

Walk 50m left along narrow vegetated ledge to flat ground and vertical wall with major right facing slabby corner crack.

4 Swallow the Fly - Neil's project

Left facing flake up overhung orange wall on left side of crag. Starts in small cave with undercut start onto shelves. Figure the lower crux (go direct if you are super tall, or slightly right). Amble up slabby section for a few metres then blast up the big flake.

Sport Project 20m, 9
5 Corner crack (project?)

May have been climbed previously. At left of cliff is this slabby splitter hand crack corner. It ends at roof - traverse right and up into thin corner (old piton and screw gate in crack). At top of corner traverse left (maybe - looks hard) into easier left facing corner finish. Lone dynabolt and FH on top of cliff to belay from.

Trad 18m
6 Hat Trick - Bundy Project

Start at base of arete, and get established on thin holds. Up wall to big moves on the orange streak. maybe 24ish ??

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 18m

1.14. Pulpit Rock 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.327786, -33.621077

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The crack behind

FA: C Ivan, T Battey

9Unknown 63m
2 Cleft Palate 11Unknown 90m
3 Easy Route 10Unknown
4 Lectern 13Unknown 17m
5 Rostrum 9Unknown 16m
6 Arete of atonement

FA: H Brotchie, R Vining

8Unknown 42m
7 Soap Box 8Unknown 23m

1.14.1. Bellbird Wall area 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

Steep North East facing wall, 100m high, and a 50m high lower cliff.

Approach:© (bundybear)

A good wall for hot afternoons (take a jumper, it by very cold if the wind picks up) and cold mornings (we've climbed in t-shirts while it's snowing there). There are also some older routes described in the Warwick Williams Grose Guide on the wall below the lookout and on the actual 'Pulpit' Rock below the lookout, and a modern mixed route on the lower cliff directly below Bellbird wall area.

Access: Park at 'Pulpit' Rock (Hat Hill Rd, Blackheath) carpark and walk down towards the 'Pulpit' Rock lookouts. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Walk down a faint track that trends rightward, initially parrallel to the main track and then down a cairned ridge for about 60m till you reach rap station. The left most rap station is over 'Stone Poem'. The rap station over the Next Doctor (also used for Bellbird) is to the right and further down hill. One bolt can be seen and clipped to help reach around the block to the two bolt anchor. There is a third anchor at the top of Bellbird but this is not recommended for rapping unless you were to leave extending slings

BellBird Wall is in Red, other routes as marked on Topo. BellBird and 'The Next Doctor' have shared rap station.

'Under the Influence' is accessed from the base of the 'Bellbird Wall' double raps, then by walking around sandy alcove (climbers left) to short rap off bolts down gully, and another rap from the routes belay bolts to base of lower cliff. See topo for this route.

GPS co-ordinates for the top cliff rap point are S33 37.244 E150 19.739

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Next Doctor Pitch 1 22Unknown 35m
2 The Next Doctor Pitch 3 20Unknown 12m
3 *** The Next Doctor

Grand arete, shade by 1 in Summer. 2 x 50m raps to tree on ledge.

Start: Market in Blue on topo

  1. 50m (22) Start on right and up.

  2. 35m (23) Move belay to rings on right side of ledge. Up to good ledge on arete. Hard for the grade...

  3. 15m (22) Straight up to rap anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Vanessa Peterson, Mike Law, 2009

23Sport 100m
4 ** YAKs in Space

Up and launch out to the right with 100m+ of air below you to arete, then up to anchors. Out there !

Either lower off back to the belay, or top out and bring a 2nd up to clean.

Start: Rap is as per tND final pitch.

FA: Bundy and Doddy, 2009

21Sport 16m
5 *** Bellbird Wall Pitch 2 & 3 18Sport 50m
6 ** Bellbird Wall

Park at 'Pulpit' Rock carpark and walk down towards 'Pulpit' Rock. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Walk down the right side of the ridge for about 60m till you reach rap station. 2 X 50m raps will get u the the base of the cliff. Note, there is more than one rap access to this area, check topo. Walk right for about 20m to the obvious start in corner. Take 16 draws, and a couple of the anchors.

Start: Marked in red on topo

  1. 45m (16) Climbs up the wall left of the corner on a little rib, staying right of big dead tree then diagonally left across slabby wall with one thin section, past 16 rings to 2RB belay on the RHS of the big ledge.

  2. 40m (17) Move belay 5m to the left. Head diagonally left over ledges then slab. Head up left thru exciting bulge and onto slab and eventually join crack about 10m for the top.

  3. 15m (15) The Champagne pitch! Start up 3D chimney with holds everywhere. Shuffle thru this, past 2 bolts and launch out and up to exciting headwall overlooking the spectacular Grose Valley below.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Vanessa Peterson, Veronica Trainor, Althea Arguelles-Ling , Chris Ling, Mike Law, 2009

18Sport 100m, 16
7 *** Stone Poem

2 beautiful arêtes separated by a short punchy haiku. The wall faces north east and is well protected on winter mornings, and gets afternoon shade in summer. Take 15 draws.

Rap 30m to a stance 10m below the ledge, then either 20m to belay#3 (hanging) or 30 to belay#2 (good ledge but leave slings to pull ropes). Rap 40m and left slightly to hanging stance at a small ledge on lip of choss. On all raps you must bounce be able to reach anchors. Take prussics. If you're not cruising 27 arêtes, you might leave a rope or 2 fixed.

  1. 40m (25) 40m Up wall and left to arete and up to cave (The Master's Ledge)

  2. 8m (26) Around bulge to hanging belay (The waiting Room)

  3. 35m (27) Out left over the sucking void (past a possible 2 ring belay for those who have bitten off more than they can masticate) and up the arete to ledge.

  4. 20m (20) Over bulge and up

FA: Adrian Laing, Mike Law

27Unknown 100m
8 ** Under the Influence

A fantastic mixed route on the lower cliff. Perfect finger crack with great (natural) pro, then bolt protected face and exposed arête climbing. One long pitch (take 15 draws plus gear) or use midway double-bolt belay to split pitches.

From the base of the Bellbird Wall double rap, walk left (facing in) around the alcove on loose, dusty ground, hugging the cliff (caution - slack belay off the big tree near rap-touchdown recommended. From the end of the alcove the cliff-top heads out perpendicular to the main Bellbird wall. Traverse around the slope while dropping slightly, to where the cliff-top swings back parallel to the main upper cliff. At the top of an obvious blocky gully (only 50m or less from the alcove) downclimb or rap (25-30m?) from double U-bolts, down gully past a few bolts (used as runners for the exit scramble) to a flat block on the cliff edge proper. Rap again (double U-bolts) to climber’s right of small tree (2 ropes, or single fixed is better - about 35m?) to start of route on the short flat-topped pinnacle next to a tree fern.

Pitch 1 (20): (single 0.3-0.75 Camalots; 5 bolts to semi hanging DBB). Finger crack with small cams, then bolts on rising traverse up and left to blunt arête (double bolt belay). Semi-hanging belay or continue.

Pitch 2 (21): (9 bolts to DBB). Thin and delicate climbing on, and just left of, the arête. Stay left of small tree on final short block).

After bringing up your second you can scramble/climb back up the blocky rap gully. There are 4 optional bolt runners to the rap anchors, if staying roped up, but take care – they will only help you so much on this low-angled terrain. Then up to alcove on half-way ledge and around to base of Bellbird wall and top-out routes.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

21Mixed 45m, 18

1.15. Perry's Lookdown 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.346103, -33.598714

Description:© (Macciza)

Areas with some big time air and big time sun. This crag gets sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. In summer, it goes into the shade at 3pm.

Approach:© (Macciza)

End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Forgotten Corner (Project)

Corner to left of 'I Forget'

FA: Project Mac, 2000

Trad
2 I Forget

Up slab left of Red Edges final pitch

May need gear at end or rebolt.

Start: Do first rap for 'Red Edge' and you can't miss it.

FA: Mac N Zac, 2005

23Trad
3 ** Red Edge

Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ;)), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.

  1. 40m 23. L side of slabby grey arête. 3 carrots plus, in order, cams: #0.5, #1-1.5, #3.5, #0.5-1, #2. DBB.

  2. 40m 25 or 22M0 if you aid the start. Up the L side of the arête with 5 carrots (4th one hidden over to the right), plus cams #0.5-1, #2.5,3, #1.5,3. DBB.

  3. 30m 23. L side of arete (2 carrots) then R side (2 carrots) to orange slab (big cams). Bolt & cam belay.

  4. 25m 25, or 24M0 if you pull on the 2nd bolt. Up to 3rd bolt then photogenic traverse L to arete, and up its L side. 5 bolts to DBB.

  5. 35m 24. L side of final arête. 3 bolts, cams #1, #1.5,2, #3, #1-2. Bolt & tree belay.

  6. 20m scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.

FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999

26Mixed 190m, 20
4 *** Parched

AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.

FA: Zac & Mac, 2005

29Sport
5 a

FA: julian

Sport 70m
6 * Moonlight Corner

BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.

FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000

22Trad 180m
7 Jark's Project

Justin Clark project awaiting an ascent when he gets fit again!

Unknown
8 *** A Date with Density

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.

Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.

  1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete

  2. 45m (22) Climb main corner , up corner and out right to arêtes

  3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void

  4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Bleay on left end of legde

  5. 45m (23) Right and up to rap station

FA: Ado, Mikl, 2000

25Sport 200m
9 ** Fat Yak

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

  2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

  3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

FA: Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith, 2009

22Sport 100m
10 ** The Rap Star

A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of A Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.

Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).

FA: Neil Monteith, Vanessa Wills

24Sport 50m, 20
11 *** The Yak bites Back

The top 2 pitches of BB, but a rad route on its own. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in as for DwD. Belay on ledge just above white sling.

  1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009

22Sport 55m
12 *** Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up)

A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22.

  1. 30m (22) First pitch of 'Beggars Banquet'. Belay off large tree then scramble up left to...

  2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to hanging belay.

  3. 40m (22) Traverse right to join into 'Fat Yak' pitch 1.

  4. 40m (22) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 5.

  5. 15m (21) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 6

22Sport 170m
13 ** Beggars Banquet

A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch. The top two pitches are worth doing in their own right as a three star route, with simple single 50m rap access.

Start: Rap to ground via 4 x 50m raps as for Date With Density.

  1. 30m (22) Best pitch of the route! 'Steep' right facing flake to start then continuous pumpy climbing to finish on ledge with large tree belay.

  2. 15m (17) Scramble un-roped 20m up left to large ledge. Rope up again then ditty right across face to enter hand crack, and up it to ledge below corner. Belay off large tree and single ring.

  3. 20m (24) Wildly contorted. Couple of chossy moves to enter steep stemming corner, out right under roof to small ledge. Out right again and onto thin face. Up to hanging belay (same belay below P3 of DwD)

  4. 40m (24) Layaway up right leading very thin seam for 20m, then join into 'Fat Yak' P1 for 20m of easier slab past two ugly horizontals to comfy bolt belay on small ledge (the higher of the two set of anchors)

  5. 40m (22) Da pumper pitch. Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  6. 15m (21) Orange rock mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewllin

24Sport 160m
14 * Never Say Never

The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.

FA: Wilson, B Harington, 1999

20Trad 110m
15 ** Never Never Land

These are good additions for "Never Say Never". A Suggestion is to do "The Circuit" If climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below "Slip Stream". Climb first 2 pitches of "Down Stream" Rap back down fixed rope, then climb "Never Never Land " walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope then climb "Never Say Never". A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.

Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete

  1. 25m (22) 25m Up arête past 3 carrots and natural pro, pul through roof then up crack to belay on small ledge at tree plus no 1 cams 2m above.

  2. 40m (20) Up crack, then continue up slabby arête past friends & 2 carrots, a no. 2 friend in slot on left of arête protects move to stance on right hand side of small roof, no.½ friend. Traverse under roof then climb left side of arête past a bolt to small ledge, easy wall to big ledge. Belay at small tree, backup with wires in 'Never Say Never'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

22Mixed 65m, 5
16 ** Downstream

Start: Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

  1. 15m (16) Up corner for 10m traverse under 4 metre roof to arête, belay on small footledge, semi hanging.

  2. 25m (16) Up corner crack belay off gum tree.

  3. 20m (16) Up crack and scree to gum you rapped off. Average pitch, better to rap down and climb 'Never Never Land'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

16Trad 60m
17 ** Slipstream

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: from the top of the Date With Density rap, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp, partly with fixed ropes for the sketchiest bits. Then hand-over-hand 20m down fixed rope thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the tree near the bottom of the fixed ropes, or off the bottom end of the fixed ropes 10m further down near the clifftop, if you trust them. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.

  1. 22m (23) Excellent but seems to be gaining a reputation as a sandbag. Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. About 7 UBs.

  2. 33m (22) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. This pitch finishes on a long scree slope and is more like 40m if you want a big bomber tree for the belay, or 50+m if you go all the way to the bolt at the start of pitch 3. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (18 UBs) with 60m rope(s) but the tree you reach is underwhelming).

  3. 50m (23) Corner, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. Fantastic pitch, and at least a grade easier than pitch 1, and maybe even easier than pitch 2! 12 U-bolts.

  4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

  5. 30m (23) Continuing the trend that not all 23s are created equal! Blast thru fun juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and through bushes to belay at tree with fixed ropes. 5 or 6 U-bolts. Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1 & 2 added by Mikl and Ado a year or two later., 2008

23Sport 120m, 44
18 ** This is Your Brain on Crack / Orange Jam / Play Misty For Me

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. 1) 20m 26 (++), The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear. 2) 30m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH, marginal gear for belay. Originally lead in one big pitch, before being retro'd. Ledge to ledge is fine if the second is ok with rope stretch on the hard climbing down low. Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

FA: Zac Vertrees and/or Monique Forestier, 2012

26Mixed 55m, 1
19 ** Walk the Chalk

Access: Probably easiest to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

  1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m. hand traverse along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

  2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling (1m) on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, Nic Sellers, 2008

27Trad 65m

1.16. Anvil Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A couple of shorter multi-pitch routes accessed from the same carpark at Perry's Lookdown - but located 1km further west.

Descent Notes:

Rap in - climb out.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bear Hug

Technical climbing with lots of air, followed by an easier second pitch. Abseil down (45m) to hanging rap station as for Ordinary route access. Suggest you leave the rope there for retreat. Take 10 draws.

  1. 20m (23) Lurch left off belay to flake, keep scuttling left a few moves then head diagonally up slab past funkiness on arete.

  2. 30m (20) Up delicate and sportingly bolted wall.

FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty (alt), 2008

23Sport 50m, 15
2 ** Ordinary Route

Sportingly bolted multi-pitch sport route.

  1. 45m (22)

  2. 25m (23)

  3. 25m (24)

  4. 10m (12)

FA: Mike Law

24 RSport 120m

1.17. Hanging Rock 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.312218, -33.582902

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Craigs Effort 19Unknown 30m
2 ** Speak of the Devil 22Unknown 170m
3 *** Oranges Poranges 24Unknown 45m
4 * The Black Rose 27Unknown 45m
5 The Edge 19Unknown 25m
6 Garth's Route 25Unknown 35m
7 ** The Great Outdoors 23Unknown 70m
8 *** Northern Exposure 23Unknown 55m
9 * Wild Wild West 23Unknown 45m
10 * Oranges and Lemons 20Unknown 65m
11 ** Burramoko Buttress 19Unknown 150m
12 Sunset Dreaming 21Unknown 110m
13 On The Wallaby Track 18Unknown 85m
14 Panic on Hanging Rock 18Unknown 80m
15 Stormfront 22Unknown 45m
16 * Shoot Your Shot 23Unknown 25m
17 Kiss or Be Kissed 19Unknown 60m
18 *** Hot and Hunky 23Unknown 20m
19 Mr & Mrs Attila the Hun -Unknown
20 ** Big, Meaty Pork Chops 23Unknown 45m
21 ** Human Cannonball 25Unknown 45m
22 Hot Meat 27Unknown 12m
23 Pants Packenn Mania! 21Unknown 55m
24 Hayabusa 18Unknown 25m
25 Tarkan Corner 17 M5Aid 180m

1.18. Bald & Fossil Head 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.322026, -33.586631

Description:© (PThomson)

The main wall boasting the 210m 'Serendipitous Cracks' climb.

Approach:© (PThomson)

Travelling west along the Great Western 'Highway' through Blackheath, turn right onto Hat Hill Rd. Follow this to Hat Hill (signposted, on the left) and continue another 400m to a small clearing on the left, with parking on the right. Park here, and walk west along the foottrail up on to the obvious ridge. 30-40min walking brings you to a small saddle on the ridge before 'Bald Head', to your immediate right will be an obvious descent into a gully (If you accidently walk past this point, you will head up onto 'Bald Head' an the end of the obvious trail).

Break trail here (hide your packs and extra gear) and head right into the eastern gully, eventually reaching a (mostly) dry creek bed. Follow the creek, making one 25m abseil en route. Make your way around the base of the cliff when the scree makes doing so possible, and continue along until you come across the first obvious crack seen when the entire wall is in view.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Another Kojak Moment 22Sport 45m
2 The Opportunistic Pathogen 22Sport 48m
3 ** The Dimerisation Interface 22Sport 52m
4 *** A Pill for your Vain Pain 24Sport 50m
5 ** Rocket Girl 23Sport 50m
6 ** Weaponhead 25Sport 48m
7 ** Just Don't Smoke 26Unknown 42m
8 *** Chemotherapy 26Sport 45m
9 ** Lunge Cancer 24Sport 45m
10 Open Project projectUnknown
11 ** Baldilicious 19Sport 25m
12 Project (Pat) projectUnknown
13 ** Thinning on Top 24Unknown 35m
14 ** Comb Over 21Sport 35m
15 *** Advanced Air Studio 20Sport 35m
16 Serendipitous Cracks direct finish

Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

20Trad 40m
17 * Serendipitous Cracks

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

  1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

  2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

  3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

  4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

  5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Craig Hale, 2000

18 RTrad 210m
18 ** Beche de Merl 19Unknown 200m
19 Figgetit 18Unknown 50m

1.18.1. Fossil Head 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.324042, -33.585984

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** G-Rex 23Sport 50m
2 ** Petrified 24Sport 50m

1.19. Mt Boyce 187 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.263944, -33.610413

1.19.1. Boycetown 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.262061, -33.604128

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Yumster

First route after the abseil. Overhanging corner.

FA: L.Wishart, 2003

26Sport 25m
2 ** Beastie Boyce

Overhanhing arete.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

26Sport 30m
3 ** Boisterous

Right of the arete. Shared start with Y & BBB. One of the best 23's around.

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

23Sport 25m
4 * Big Boyce Blouse

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

26Sport 30m
5 Project (Giles) projectUnknown
6 * Fartflusher

Batman start.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

24Sport 35m
7 Project

FA: Giles/Lloyd, 2000

Trad
8 ** Rolls Boyce

this and the next route are about 30m to the right.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

25Sport 37m
9 ** Little Boyce Room

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

25Sport 26m
10 ** La Nina

The really good looking clean crack at the far right hand end above the rope access.

FFA: G Bradbury, T Betherton, 1989

22Trad 50m

1.19.2. Browntown 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262227, -33.605433

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blinded by the Light

The routes in this area are listed right to left as you come to them.

FA: M.Paynes, 1999

19Sport 8m
2 Cheeky Thing

First bolt removed pending rebolt.. Doubt this will ever happen.

FA: B.Laursen, 1999

22 XSport 8m
3 * Xanthorrhoea Australis

FA: I.Geatches, 1999

22Sport 15m
4 The Big Lebowski

Start: This and the next 2 routes share a common start.

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

24Sport 15m
5 ** Mattie Potatie

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

27Sport 15m
6 * You Can Float

FA: I.Geatches, 2002

28Sport 25m
7 * Pre-Millenium Tension

FA: mark payens

23Sport 25m
8 * Big in Japan

FA: Mark Payens

23Sport 25m
9 Project (Mark) projectUnknown
10 Sorcerers Apprentice

Lower off single bolt!

FA: J.Dodson, 1999

19Sport 20m
11 Too Soft

FA: J.Dodson, 2000

21Sport 20m
12 Sorcerer

FA: Ian Geatches

24Unknown 25m

1.19.3. Absquealers 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.264750, -33.607446

Description:© (wombly)

The walls surrounding the gully below the abseilers training area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Life of Your Time

On dark orange face halfway down abseilers' track where it touches right side of gully.

FA: Niall Doherty, George Muraoka, 2010

21Sport 20m, 9
2 Almost Famous

First pitch trad, second pitch rings and carrots.

FA: D.White, D.Tweedie

20Mixed 45m, 6
3 Curveball

Mostly trad with four ring bolts.

FA: Vince Day, Hugh Sutton

26Trad 55m
4 ** Penny Arcade

3 pitches, fully bolted.

Start: Follow abseilers track down the gully, past the big cave. Continue around on L hand side of gully (facing out) to the implement straight out of mad max

FA: Niall Doherty, Roger Bourne, 2007

20Sport 54m
5 ** Penny Arcade P's 2 and 3 only

FA: Niall Doherty, Roger Bourne, 2007

18Unknown 36m

1.19.4. Upper Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.265790, -33.610459

Description:© (mjw)

Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Side Stepper

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Set by B Jung

FA: A Cummings, 2014

17Sport
2 Monica's Gate

The second route you come to.

FA: G.Trutnovsky,M.Pircher, 1998

24Sport 12m
3 Vambrace

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 2000

21Sport 15m
4 Watergate

FA: P.Stebbins,A.Drennen,B.Pearse, 1982

23Sport 15m
5 Reaganomics

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

24Sport 13m
6 * A Bird in the Bush

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

25Sport 12m
7 mailorder meercat

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012

27Sport 15m
8 * Six-draw Tallboy

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

FA: N.Baker, 2002

27Sport 10m
9 ** Beaten, Bullied & Buggered

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

FA: G.Child,J.Smoothy, 1989

26Sport 15m
10 * Leprosy

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

FA: V.Day, 2005

31Sport 15m
11 fury

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

FA: vince day, 2004

33Sport 15m
12 Project

FA: Open, 2000

projectSport
13 * Mr. September

Far left hand route.

FA: N.Sutter, 1997

28Sport 8m

1.19.5. Abseil Gully 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.264973, -33.610740

Description:

Generally, this area gets morning shade and arvo sun. More specifically: the Eyrie Wall gets sun from about 11am; Afghan Wall stays shady until about 1pm and the Girl in the Mirror Wall is shady until noon.

Approach:

Drive N along Station St from Blackheath for about 2km until you get to the signposted "Parking Area No. 2". Park here (having a bit of clearance helps to get into the carpark). Walk downhill on an obvious track for 5 minutes. The sport crag found on your R is Vambrace Wall. Walk another 50m down from here and you're at the top of Abseil Gully.

Descent Notes:

This is a rap-in and climb-out crag. Best idea is to bring a dedicated abseil rope to fix in place all day. A short rope (25m) is enough for the Abseil Gully abseil, but if you leave a rope here you need to get used to the idea that it will almost certainly get used by everyone else at the crag. If you plan to climb mostly on Afghan Wall or Mean Streak Wall then it's most convenient to fix a 50m abseil rope down your chosen wall. That way you don't have a long barefoot scramble and don't have to carry walking shoes up every climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scruffocide

35m left of 'Abseil Slab'.

Start: Slab.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

17Trad 18m
2 Aceldama

Start: 20 left of AS.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

17Trad 15m
3 Abseil Slab

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley, 1967

7Trad 34m
4 Frank and Joe

Start: 3m right of AS.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1984

19Trad 17m
5 Abseil Arete

Start: Aret right of F&J.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley, 1967

8Mixed 30m, 6
6 Abseil Corner

Originally done in 3 pitches.

FA: G.Owens,B.Smith,J.Millar, 1967

11Trad 34m
7 Eagle Wall

Start: Wall right of AC.

FA: B.Postill,G.Wurth, 1969

15 RTrad 40m
8 *** The Eyrie

Start: Left extremity of the black slab ,right of 'Abseil Gully'.

  1. 30m (12) Slab to cave. Chain belay.

  2. 12m (10) Cave to top.

FA: J Worral, H Ward

12Mixed 50m, 5
9 * Loitering With Intent

Traverse.

Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

  1. 25m (-)

  2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

  3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

  4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1985

14Trad 130m
10 ** Another Man's Juliet

Start: 1m right of E.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1984

16Trad 48m
11 ** Set, Piece, Battle

Start: 2m right of AMJ.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland,J.Smoothy, 1985

14Trad 50m
12 Bonnie Scotland

Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'.

FA: M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley,G.Owens, 1967

13Trad 53m
13 This Ain't Gardening

Possibly never repeated.

Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof.

FA: R.Young,M.Portman, 1994

22Trad 45m
14 Old England

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

  1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to secnd lip.

  2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

FA: M.Clarbourgh,G.Owens, 1967

12Trad 55m
15 * Sweet Irish

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

  1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge.

  2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to top.

FA: L.Smith,B.Postill, 1967

10Trad 49m
16 * Tongan Corner

Start: 3m right of SI.

  1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

  2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson,L.Muzzatti, 1967

8Trad 60m
17 Atlantis

Start: 'Arete' 2m right.

  1. 24m (-) 'Arete' to belay 3m left on block.

  2. 36m (13) Onto arete, then up right side on steep wall. Back to arete, through overhang to top.

FA: B.Postill,B.Crouch, 1969

13Trad 60m
18 * Navel Excavator

15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed.

Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings.

FA: Smoothy, Bourne, 2005

20Sport 15m

1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sweet Seduction in a Magazine / Unknown route left of Afghan Wall on a million brackets

The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

FA: unknown

16Sport 50m, 99
2 * Endless Pleasure in a Limousine

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

FA: G Oliver, J Corkins

16Sport 47m, 99
3 Afghan Wall

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

  1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

  2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

FA: P.Jenkins,R.Lassman, 1967

14 RMixed 63m, 4
4 Afghan Wall (Variant) 13Unknown 65m
5 * Weapons of Mass Deception

4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

20Mixed 45m, 8
6 ** Compassion Overboard

3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

20Mixed 45m, 8
7 Kabul Offensive

Start: 5m right again.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1984

18Trad 50m
8 Khyber Pass

Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner.

FA: A.Penney,D.Magro, 1985

17Trad 48m
9 Canadian Corner

Start: The corner. 2 pitches.

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson,L.Muzzatti, 1967

9Trad 58m
10 Aussie Apricot

Traverse!

Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

FA: P.Webber,M.Moore, 1979

14 RTrad 110m
11 Russian Roulette

Start: As for AA to top of pedestal then to top.

FA: McMahon,Stallery, 1977

15 RTrad 40m
12 Caconofix

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

FA: G Short, W Williams

19Sport 50m
13 * Querilous Journey

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

21Trad 50m
14 Flaws in the Glass

Start: 3m right of CC. Bouldery start.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

22Trad 50m
15 *** The Girl in the Mirror

Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 carrots to DBB. Stick clip the first bolt! Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1984

22Mixed 45m, 5
16 *** Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup

Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak. It can easily be linked into a single pitch but this is not wise as the second will hit the ground if they fall off the crux. Mostly bolts but a few medium cams and wires come in handy.

22Mixed 45m, 11
17 * The End of the Affair

The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams.

Start: As for FH.

FA: G.Child,A.Prehn,J.Smoothy, 1989

23Trad 50m
18 ** Mean Streak

Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic.

Start: Start 10m right of GitM.

  1. 25m (20) Lots of rambling, rolling and mantling. Not classic but is apparently worth doing. Trad and carrots.

  2. 25m (21) Up black streak. Mostly bolts but there's an optional small cam down low, plus a medium cam and wire up high to avoid an 8m runout to the final carrot.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

21Mixed 50m, 10
19 ** Fille de Joie

Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Child, 1989

24Trad 56m
20 Free Hungary

Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.

  1. 27m (-) Up right to ledge on left of pedestal below arete.

  2. 14m (19) Up right 3m and up below semi-circular overhang. Left to cave then up to belay.

  3. 18m (-) Left then up and out.

FA: J.Worrall,R.Lassman, 1967

19Trad 60m
21 Schisenhousen

Start: 9m right of FH.

  1. 9m (10) face to ledge.

  2. 24m (10) Wall & corner, right to ledge. Up tending right to stance.

  3. 35m (10) Up right to top.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh, 1967

10Trad 68m
22 Exit The Dragon

Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.

  1. 40m (13) Take the line. 6m left at top. Then slab to tree belay?

  2. 15m (13) Left and up.

FA: J.Croker, 1974

13 RTrad 55m
23 The Grasper

Start: V groove with chockstone.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Fantini, 2000

16Trad 43m
24 The Groper

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

  1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

  2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

  3. 18m (14) Crack.

FA: W.Williams,R.Vining, 2000

14 M4Aid 70m
25 The Grunter

Start: 9m right again.

FA: B.Postill,P.Edwards, 1972

M5Aid 58m

1.19.7. One of the Best Area 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.264700, -33.612337

Description:© (secretary)

A stunning area with some very high quality routes and rock. Blue Mountains climbing at its best.

The Topo is referenced to the Pircher/Carter Blue Mountains climbing guide. Descriptions and Topo from Roger Bourne.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Master's Eggs

Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.

Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.

  1. 25m (23) Thin traverse left to the arete then ecstatically up. The rounded arete leads to some beautifully polished scoops. Pull past these and make some thin moves to gain the flake above. Go straight up (bolt added Jan 07). Rap off double rings.

  2. 28m (23) Traverse the holdless footledge then try to find the holds on the slab above. Up the arete and up the bulge past the eggs.

  3. 15m (20) Through the bulge to anchors at the top of the cliff. You can also rap in this way.

FA: R Bourne, C Frost

23Sport 25m
2 Femalis

This and the next 2 routes are from the good old days.

Start: Chimney left of Haggis (probably between Master's Eggs and One of the Best).

  1. 27m (9) Scrub to chimney.

  2. 30m (9) Ramps to back of chimney, traverse left, chockstone, then up through hole in roof.

  3. 12m (9) 'Small' slab.

FA: G.Owens,L.Muzzatti,F.Bell, 1967

9Trad 69m
3 ** One of the Best

An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.

Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.

  1. 26m (26) Up easy stuff and left under roof, up flake and through bulge to belay.

  2. 30m (25) Right to thin crack, up it, then right to arete and up.

FA: Giles Bradbury and John Smoothy., 1990

25Sport 56m
4 ** Plastic Sturgeon

Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes.

Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.

  1. 25m (24) Follow the dots... to a double bolt belay.

  2. 25m (24) Towards the top of the second pitch think about the name of the climb and grope around for a "hold" in a place you wouldnt expect to find one.

FA: A Duckwoth, M Pircher, 2002

24Sport 50m
5 Irk-Err-Drab

Crack to piton (god knows what condition it is in)! then crack.

Start: Approx. 30m right of F. This makes it the vegetated corner between Plastic Sturgeon and Cats in the Cradle.

FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1969

13 RTrad 60m
6 ** Cat's in the Cradle

This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and 'Jugantor'.

Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.

  1. 20m (17) Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay.

  2. 25m (19) Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. 'Trust' your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay on good stance.

  3. 8m (16) Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly, 2006

19Sport 53m
7 *** Jugantor

"An excellent route" (Kyle D.)

Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.

  1. 20m (23) Pull up onto into the groove and traverse bizzarely left 10m then up wall. Falling seconds may be lost in space so consider bringing prussics.

  2. 15m (23) Head on up the perfect grey rock.

  3. 30m (24) A Wee bit tricky getting up the slab and then down across it. Don't wear slippers !. 'Steep' jugging follows. Belay on rings on a ledge about 2m below the top.

FA: R. Bourne, 2003

24Sport 65m
8 ** Licking Holes Creek

Another classic in this area.

Start: Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.

  1. 15m (23) All sorts of technical balancing required to get to and past first bolt.

  2. 20m (24) Awkward move up and onto flake, then start traversing left and across the beautiful orangeness. Easily left. Use left one two rings on steep grey wall above.

  3. 25m (20) Climb the beautiful corner, and or the arete. Go right at the roof.

FA: R Bourne, A Duckworth

FA: R. Bourne, 2003

24Sport 60m
9 ** Lap Lap Land

An alternative finish to 'Licking Holes Creek'. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction.

Start: Start as for first two pitches of LHC.

FA: R Bourne, G Bradbury, 2003

22Sport 35m
10 Haggis

Not too bad but pro is sparse.

Start: ? At the "H" at the bottom of 'Licking Holes Creek'.

FA: P.Jenkins,R.Lassman, 1967

9Trad 49m

1.19.8. Spoilt Brats Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Aid and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.264575, -33.613618

Description:© (secretary)

One of the best pieces of (climbable) rock around.

Approach:© (secretary)

The glorious wall at the bottom of solo gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Shades of Grey

The leftmost route on 'Spoilt Brats Wall'.

Start: Shared start. Dyno off glued jug then head left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2002

21Sport 30m
2 *** Ritalin

As fo SoG, then straight up. If you ignore the strange bolting and moves low this climb is an absolute gem up high.

FA: S.Bell, 2003

24Sport 30m
3 * Cirrus Maximus

FA: F.Yule, 2001

24Sport 30m
4 Project (Frey) projectUnknown
5 ** Sisters of Mercy

Start: Left of SBaGA.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1987

23 M1Aid 30m
6 *** Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks

Has a 2nd pitch (rarely done)10m.

Start: 'Trad climb' through trees to double ring belay 10 off the ground. -OR- Traverse R from 'Smallpox' to anchors and rap down.

FFA: john smoothy mike law, 1984

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney, 1984

21Sport 57m
7 * Sleepwalk for the Last Time 22 M0Aid 75m
8 ** Infant Terror

The next 2 routes share a start with SBaGA. After leaving Spoiled Brats a hard traverse on good but spaced holds lead right to the first belay, continue up and back left to another tricky move right at the top of the wall.

FA: A.Duckworth,P.Quach, 2002

23Sport 45m
9 * Minor Threat

FA: S.Bell,H.Hooper, 2002

20Sport 20m

1.19.9. Smallpox 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.264695, -33.613810

Description:© (secretary)

Short and steep and perched on the edge of a much bigger cliff. A good place for winter 'training' since it can be protected from the wind, and gets the sun during the day.

Approach:© (secretary)

This area is on the upper cliffline above the 'Spoilt brats..' area. 'Access' via Walkdown 'Gully'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hey! Big Sender!

Left hand route.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23Sport 12m
2 * The Hintenbumsen Disaster

Artistic. Lower off chains of Vampy.

FA: R.Bourne, 2003

26Sport 10m
3 ** Vampy the Buffed Boy Slayer

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

24Sport 12m
4 * Unleash the Mighty Mongrel

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23Sport 12m
5 * Actionman

FA: S.Bell,Mike File, 2002

22Sport 12m
6 Project Sent

Has been freed at 26.

Set by Felix Pircher

26Sport
7 * Mighty Hermaphrodite

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

23Sport 12m

1.19.10. Solo Gully 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.263380, -33.614170

Approach:© (mjw)

The Area between 'Solo Gully' and Walkdown 'Gully'. Best access is via Walkdown 'Gully'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Curtains for the Khymer

Needs rebolting.

Start: 'Flake' just inside 'Solo Gully'.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1981

24Unknown 25m
2 *** 25th Floor

Rebolted 2004. More like 'Arapiles' that the Blue Mtns. Very good sustained climbing in a creepy environment makes this one feel much harder than it really is. 'Excellent' on a hot day and has a viewing gallery on the opposite wall of the chasm.

Start: Short steep corner/flake 5m up the gully. Follow the U-bolts. Supplementary cams (small and medium) are a comfort.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

24Sport 25m
3 Fallen Zimbra Warriors

Right side of 'Solo Gully'. Overhang past piton. Then Wall to tree!

FA: C.Martin,L.Trihey, 1984

21Trad 25m
4 Hands Up

Overhang 3m right of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 10m (16) Left to ledge.

  2. 15m (20) Up to orange scoop, then up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

20Trad 45m
5 Hands Down

Start: Ledge at bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 35m (13) Traverse right, down, up to spike, then to high ledge and bollard near corner.

  2. 35m (13) Return to spike. Then straight up...

FA: K.Royce,B.Postill, 1972

13Trad 64m

1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wild is the Wind

Start: On a flat rock at the large eucalypt at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 40m (15) Up 3m to carrot then traverse R 10m (small cams). Up to another carrot then R 10m to double rings on far side of ledge.

  2. 20m (15) Awkward move up the corner and onto the left face. Up (wires in corner crack) and right onto the face. Follow carrots R across wall and up to cave. Double ring belay in back of cave or double carrots at the edge of the cave.

  3. 20m (14) Scarey move out of the cave to pull up onto the wall. Follow carrots straight up. Mid sized cams can supplement the carrots. Belay off big tree 10 back or double rings 5m over to the right.

FA: Roger

15Trad 70m
2 Far Q 2

Start: On grassy ledge 10m right of the gully.

FA: B.Postill,K.Royce,S.Royce, 1972

20Aid 43m
3 ** Shock And Awe

Start: QUICK ACCESS TO P2: Climb spikes 20m left of Superbug/Firebug and then traverse left 15m to get to the start of P2.

ORIGINAL ACCESS:

Traverse in around ledge at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'. This is easy but a bit scarey. Can be protected with a couple of medium cams. Belay on double rings

  1. 25m (22) Descend and climb out to arete. Ring just around the corner. Now traverse right and slightly downward on pumpy jugs to double ring semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (25) Crank and heelhook madly up to the horizontal break for a lie down rest in the slot. Thin and reachy power cranking gets you up the next blank section, then more easily up to the steep headwall. Straight up to double rings in the cave roof, or (the original line), traverse right and up to the Angels belay.

  3. 25m (23) Move to double rings at the left end of the cave. Pull up through the roof crack and then onto the hanging orange wall. Up the wall diagonally right and then pull through the roof above to the left of the rings. Double rings belay over to the left.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

25Trad 75m
4 *** The Ass Of The Angel

Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky cruxes

Start: EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

27Sport
5 * Say Cheese for High n Wild

Start: 6m left of 'Fire Bug'.

FA: A.Duckworth,W.Monks, 1998

20Trad 36m
6 *** Fire Bug

The obvious line.

  1. 30m (17) Hard start.

  2. 15m (17) Corner to belay beneath block.

  3. 24m (17) Negotiate blocks, steep corner, sloping shelf. Left crack and cave.

  4. 6m (-) Left and out. Watch out for abseilers!

FA: John Ewbank, John Fantini

17Trad 76m
7 ** Superbug

Arete 1m right of Firebug.

Start: Start up Firebug then swing right onto the face below the nose.

FA: S.Bell, 2002

26Sport 25m
8 ** Bug Proboscis

An even more airy finish to 'Superbug'.

Start: 'Superbug'. Continue 10m past the top of 'Superbug' to chains.

  1. 30m (24)

  2. -m (-)

FA: R. Bourne, 2004

24Sport 30m
9 * Light My Fire

Rap in to large ledge with chain. Climb up veering left to above Firebug. Follow rings to 2 alternative finishes.

FA: Roger Bourne

20Sport 30m
10 ** Baby Carrots

Rap in from top above Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free to double rings. Many glue in carrots to top.

FA: Roger Bourne

14Sport 35m
11 *** Better Than Wife

Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way.

Start: Start as for 'Bug Free' at the ugly undercut arete.

FA: R Bourne, 2004

27Sport 30m
12 ** Bronze Orange Bug / Bug Free

An old aid route at 12m6 now freed grade at 25. A great mountains pumper, crux near the ground then great long climb on feature bright orange rock.

FFA: A. Duckworth, 2003

25Sport 30m
13 Passion Vine Hopper 13Unknown 43m
14 *** Vincent HRD

30m left of the 'Gully', on ledge. One of the best single pitch trad routes at Mt Boyce. Traverse from the ledge to the line and up to the stella diagonal hand jamb crack up to a chain about Thruxton.

FA: P.Jenkins,K.Joyce,B.Postill, 1972

FFA: john smoothy, 1983

21Trad 20m
15 * Air2Spare

Easy climbing after an exciting rap in to a semi-hanging belay.

Start: Rap 35m off two rings in the overhang about 10m right (facing out) of the top of Goldstar. Clip in to carrots on the way down.

trad + 10 bolt plates. Rap from top of Goldstar. Abseil rings are in the "cave" 10m right of Goldstar. Abseil 35m past 10 carrots tending slightly left (facing cliff). Double ring belay on a grey nose about 20m above ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic and your rope probably won't reach the ground. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Or just bolt plates and run it out).

FA: Susan Hoernlein, Paul Turner, 2004

12Mixed 35m, 10
16 *** Thruxton

3m right of VHRD. A great sustained layback corner, most people just climb the first pitch to the chain.

  1. 27m (19) Corner to ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Thin crack, gully and out.

FA: B.Allen,W.Williams, 1972

19Trad 57m
17 * Little Johnny

Right of air 2 spare on carrots

FA: 2007

14Sport 30m
18 Manx

Start as for VHRD.

  1. 6m (-) Up to ledge.

  2. 34m (14) Crack and ramp to ledge.

  3. 24m (14) 2nd crack from the right to gully and out.

FA: B.Postill,P.Edwards, 1972

14Trad 64m
19 Bonnieville

Start: First pitch as for Manx.

  1. 6m (-) Up to ledge.

  2. 34m (14) Crack and groove (keeping away from Manx). Left to high ledge.

  3. 24m (14) Crack to top.

FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1972

14Trad 64m
20 Cow Chaser

Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start

FA: Farty Paul, R Bourne

FA: Paul Turner, R Bourne, 2004

18Trad 20m
21 *** Gold Star
  1. 30m (16) Crack to ledge.

  2. 28m (18) 'Steep' crack to top.

FA: B.Allen,R.Lassman, 1972

18Trad 58m
22 *** Gold Star Pitch 1

FA: Bryden Allen, Ray Lassman

16Sport 30m
23 * Grand Slam 2008

Rings and bolts right of Goldstar

FA: Tony Williams/Nick T, 2008

20Sport 20m
24 My Mate Matey 19Unknown 25m
25 Half Life

Right hand side of the gully coming down.

Start: Streno crack, overhung corner and roof to top.

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1977

21Trad 35m

1.19.12. Walk-down Gully 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.262536, -33.615089

Approach:© (mjw)

Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Diversion

The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.

  1. 24m (11) Crack to cavern.

  2. 30m (11) Up chimney then right.

FA: W.Williams,P.Giles, 1972

11Trad 55m
2 Roughly Yours

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: Graham ?,J.Wurth, 1972

14Trad 61m
3 The Wages of Sin

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984

23Trad 50m
4 ** Gently Mine

FA: L Smith, W Williams

14Trad 58m
5 * Divide and Dissolve

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy,G.James, 1985

23Trad 45m
6 ** Pig Iron Slaughter

Rebolted May 2007

Start: Left side of the arete.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy,L.Trihey, 1984

21Trad 45m
7 ** The Gates of Janus

Start: As for PIS, right into corner and up.

FA: K Bell, H Bevan

16Trad 50m
8 * Took Crook

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

  1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

  2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

  3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

FFA: K.Bell,G.Mortimer,J.Morgan. (. B.Allen,W.Williams), 1972

20 RTrad 64m
9 Sally

Start: Crack to the right.

FA: Graham.?,J.Wurth, 1972

15Trad 43m
10 Kite Eater 10Unknown 61m
11 Peppermint Pattie 9Trad 61m
12 Charlie Brown 11Unknown 55m
13 Pig Pen 9Unknown 46m
14 * Freewheeling 17Trad 26m
15 * Shulz Sux 20Unknown 50m
16 Craigs Effort 21Unknown 25m
17 * Snoopy 14Unknown 64m
18 Olympic Trivia 20Unknown 20m
19 Professional Fat Lamb Man 18Unknown 20m
20 ** Museum of Fire 23Unknown 30m
21 Lucy 13Unknown 64m
22 Woodstock 16Unknown 76m
23 Schroeder 14Unknown 90m
24 Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot 19Unknown 76m
25 Eeyore 16Unknown 70m
26 Piglet 15Unknown 79m
27 * El Matador 18Unknown 92m
28 El Cid 14Unknown 100m
29 El Zorro 14Unknown 57m
30 Wizard of Id 15Unknown 98m
31 King of Id 13 M2Aid 60m
32 Fair Maiden Gwen 12 M2Aid 60m
33 Rodney 14 M2Aid 60m
34 Blanch 8Unknown 46m
35 P.P.P.P. 13Unknown 76m
36 Gronk 13Unknown 70m
37 Kamikaze 18Unknown 61m
38 Phillip's Climb 14Unknown 55m
39 The Fruits of War 12Unknown 36m

1.19.13. Crevasse Gully 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (willmonks)

See page 89 of SRC guide.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Chimney 12Unknown 26m
2 Never Below the Navel 12Unknown 45m
3 Below the Navel 6Unknown 19m
4 Fizzler 10Unknown 40m
5 Deception 9Unknown 24m
6 Wandering Willie 10Unknown 85m
7 Clay Pipe 8Unknown 49m
8 Sandy Hollow 14Unknown 55m
9 Halfway House 14Unknown 17m

1.20. Mt Blackheath 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.255376, -33.641503

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sugarland Express 15Unknown
2 Stuntman 20Unknown
3 Gimme Shelter 20Unknown
4 The Great Escape 19Unknown
5 Case of the Smilling Stiffs 19Unknown
6 Pink Panther 18Unknown
7 Redline 7000 19 M2Aid
8 Phallanger 21Unknown
9 Time Bomb 18Unknown
10 Thanatos 16Unknown
11 High Plains Drifter 24Unknown 40m
12 Isis 21Unknown 40m
13 Crack Unnamed 13Unknown 40m
14 Doc 16Unknown
15 No More Wolves 14Unknown
16 Honey on the Wrong Side 19Unknown
17 According to Miss Bornstein 16Unknown
18 Grandpa Chook 17Unknown
19 Absoloodle 18Aid 40m
20 Polybius 20Unknown 40m
21 Kerisal 23Unknown 40m
22 On Any Sunday 19Unknown 45m
23 Hombre 20Unknown 38m
24 * Sargasso Sea 21Unknown 35m
25 Jericho 16Unknown 38m
26 El Desperado 19Unknown
27 Bandalero 19Unknown
28 South of the Border 23Unknown
29 Border Crossing 23Unknown
30 Bitter Aloes 10Unknown
31 Pussy Galore 11Unknown
32 Felix 18Unknown 25m
33 Jokerman 16Unknown
34 Laughing Matter 13Unknown
35 Corner Unnamed 13Unknown
36 Battle of the Bulge 22 M1Aid
37 Hi-tension 23Unknown
38 Electric Sheen 19Unknown
39 Highliner 24Unknown
40 Jive Bunny 23Unknown
41 Senile Dementia 18Unknown 40m
42 High Riser 20Unknown 30m
43 Hangover 18Unknown
44 Ferny Chimney 16Unknown 40m
45 Astragal 17Unknown
46 Talking With Your Mouth Full 20Unknown 12m
47 Burrito 16Unknown 12m
48 Donkey 5Unknown 9m
49 Tosca -Unknown
50 Sunspot 22Unknown 30m
51 Critical Mass 20Unknown 45m
52 The Happy Hypocrite 21Unknown 45m
53 False Summit 22Unknown 28m
54 Snakes in Their Closets 22Unknown 30m
55 ** Budgie Smuggler

Very good. Steep with tech moves for feet.

FA: FA Lloyd Wishart 2003

23Unknown 12m

1.20.1. Mt Blackheath Northern Walls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.250641, -33.641567

Description:© (willmonks)

This is the north facing orange walls on 'Mt Blackheath', about 500m east of the hang glider ramp. If not for the 10m band of overhung vegetation for the first 10m off the ground, it'd be quite ok.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Blistering

The corner crack up the middle of the North-facing orange walls, 300m E of Blackheath Lookout. Rap in to stance above vegetation.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, Peter Monks, 1999

16Trad 30m
2 * Day of Departure

The finger-crack corner in orange rock in the lower cliffband, about 70m R of and below Blistering. Move R around roof and up crack above.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, Rob Hadley, 1999

16Trad 15m

1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.244636, -33.644534

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pent Up 14Unknown 50m
2 Nothing Desperate 10Unknown
3 Under Powered 15 M1Aid
4 * Loopholes 13Unknown
5 Moment of Truth 12Unknown 40m
6 Think of England 15 M0Aid
7 Calm 4Unknown 70m
8 Sang-Froid 14Unknown 70m
9 * Centrefold 17Unknown 30m
10 Knees Also 12Unknown 30m
11 Troika 12Unknown 30m
12 Quadrill 9Unknown 30m
13 Us 10Unknown 30m
14 Bottle Chimney 12Unknown 26m
15 Tanglefoot 11Unknown 30m
16 Clam 12Unknown 43m
17 Knees As Well 7Unknown 33m
18 Solo Climb 10Unknown 40m
19 * Handmade Jam 17Unknown 50m
20 Powdermilk Biscuits 11Unknown 50m
21 Raw Bits 16Unknown 50m
22 Golden Oldies 19 M0Aid 55m
23 Wall to Wall 14Unknown 50m
24 Rakes Progess 12Unknown 50m
25 Knees 6Unknown 43m
26 Escapement 6Unknown 60m
27 Ground Zero 14Unknown 50m
28 Windy 9Unknown 56m
29 Arc De Triomphe 16 M3Aid 43m

1.21. Rusty 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Lockjaw 24Unknown 25m
2 ** Tetanus Shot 25Unknown 25m
3 Gruntfuttock 24Unknown 22m
4 * It"s really lloyd"s 24Unknown 18m
5 ** (Hairy Yam 25Unknown 12m
6 ** Budgie smuggler 23Unknown 18m

1.22. Ukulore Valley 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.22.1. The Stone River 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crack Like Candy

FA: Ben Cossey, 2013

V7Boulder
2 Unknown V7

Arete

V7Boulder
3 Unknown V8 V8Boulder

1.22.2. The Ice-Vovo Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ice-Vovo

Low start, up the tall arete.

FA: Tom O'Halloran

V7Boulder
2 Ice-Vovo Stand

Stand start, up the tall arete.

V5Boulder

1.22.3. The Pink Caravan 1 route in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Pink Caravan On The Hill

FA: Ben Cossey

V8Boulder

1.22.4. The Jungfrau 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jack To The Hobos

FA: Ben Cossey

V11Boulder
2 Up To The Onions V7Boulder
3 Squattin' In A Slitted Stomach Blues

Up To The Onions boulder

V10Boulder
4 *** And the Ass Saw the Angel

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

V13Boulder
5 Bowel Of Bilge

FA: Ben Cossey, 2013

V9Boulder

1.22.5. Mermaids Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yonder Glory Hole V8Boulder
2 The Old Reach Around V11Boulder
3 *** The Mauling Of The Ass

FA: Ben Cossey

V7Boulder

1.22.6. The Hidden Valley 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pocket To Cool Rail Problem

FA: Lee Cossey

V7Boulder
2 Left Rails V7Boulder
3 Right Rails V7Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 * Dod the Liquid Bunter Unknown 12m 1.7.2. Junket Pumper Area
Calm Unknown 70m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
5 Donkey Unknown 9m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
6 Below the Navel Unknown 19m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
Escapement Unknown 60m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Knees Unknown 43m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
7 Abseil Slab Trad 34m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Knees As Well Unknown 33m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
8 Arete of atonement Unknown 42m 1.14. Pulpit Rock
Soap Box Unknown 23m 1.14. Pulpit Rock
Abseil Arete Mixed 30m, 6 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
* Tongan Corner Trad 60m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Blanch Unknown 46m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Clay Pipe Unknown 49m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
9 Escape Route Trad 20m 1.5. Shipley Lower
Rostrum Unknown 16m 1.14. Pulpit Rock
The crack behind Unknown 63m 1.14. Pulpit Rock
Canadian Corner Trad 58m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
Femalis Trad 69m 1.19.7. One of the Best Area
Haggis Trad 49m 1.19.7. One of the Best Area
Peppermint Pattie Trad 61m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Pig Pen Unknown 46m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Deception Unknown 24m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
Quadrill Unknown 30m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Windy Unknown 56m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
10 Smoulder Trad 10m 1.1.2. The Phoenix
Easy Route Unknown 1.14. Pulpit Rock
* Sweet Irish Trad 49m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Schisenhousen Trad 68m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
Kite Eater Unknown 61m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Fizzler Unknown 40m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
Wandering Willie Unknown 85m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
Bitter Aloes Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Nothing Desperate Unknown 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Solo Climb Unknown 40m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Us Unknown 30m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
11 Cleft Palate Unknown 90m 1.14. Pulpit Rock
Abseil Corner Trad 34m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Charlie Brown Unknown 55m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Diversion Trad 55m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Pussy Galore Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Powdermilk Biscuits Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Tanglefoot Unknown 30m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
12 Papist Crop Sport 15m 1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall
Old England Trad 55m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
*** The Eyrie Mixed 50m, 5 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
* Air2Spare Mixed 35m, 10 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
The Fruits of War Unknown 36m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Never Below the Navel Unknown 45m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
The Chimney Unknown 26m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
Bottle Chimney Unknown 26m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Clam Unknown 43m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Knees Also Unknown 30m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Moment of Truth Unknown 40m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Rakes Progess Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Troika Unknown 30m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
12 M2 Fair Maiden Gwen Aid 60m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
12 M3 Aniseed Arete Aid 82m 1.8.4. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
13 Trinity Sport 18m 1.4.5. Grey Slab
Pompadour Sport 15m, 10 1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall
* Milarepa Trad 30m 1.11. Heathcliff
Lectern Unknown 17m 1.14. Pulpit Rock
Atlantis Trad 60m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Bonnie Scotland Trad 53m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Afghan Wall (Variant) Unknown 65m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
Exit The Dragon Trad 55m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
Irk-Err-Drab Trad 60m 1.19.7. One of the Best Area
Hands Down Trad 64m 1.19.10. Solo Gully
Passion Vine Hopper Unknown 43m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
Gronk Unknown 70m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Lucy Unknown 64m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
P.P.P.P. Unknown 76m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Corner Unnamed Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Crack Unnamed Unknown 40m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Laughing Matter Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
* Loopholes Unknown 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
13 M2 King of Id Aid 60m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
14 Honeycomb Trad 70m 1.8.4. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
* Loitering With Intent Trad 130m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
** Set, Piece, Battle Trad 50m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Afghan Wall Mixed 63m, 4 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
Aussie Apricot Trad 110m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
** Baby Carrots Sport 35m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
Bonnieville Trad 64m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
* Little Johnny Sport 30m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
Manx Trad 64m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
El Cid Unknown 100m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
El Zorro Unknown 57m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
** Gently Mine Trad 58m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Phillip's Climb Unknown 55m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Roughly Yours Trad 61m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Schroeder Unknown 90m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
* Snoopy Unknown 64m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Halfway House Unknown 17m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
Sandy Hollow Unknown 55m 1.19.13. Crevasse Gully
No More Wolves Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Ground Zero Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Pent Up Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Sang-Froid Unknown 70m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
Wall to Wall Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
14 M2 Rodney Aid 60m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
14 M4 The Groper Aid 70m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
15 Tricky Dicky Unknown 44m 1.8.5. Chasing Amy Wall
Wichetty Grub Chimney Unknown 50m 1.8.7. Thrustblock Area
Eagle Wall Trad 40m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Russian Roulette Trad 40m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
** Wild is the Wind Trad 70m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
Piglet Unknown 79m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Sally Trad 43m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Wizard of Id Unknown 98m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Sugarland Express Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
15 M0 Think of England Aid 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
15 M1 Under Powered Aid 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
16 Valley View Sport 25m 1.8.1. Rough Trade Wall
Descartes Unknown 68m 1.8.8. SSCC4 Area
** Downstream Trad 60m 1.15. Perry's Lookdown
** Another Man's Juliet Trad 48m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
* Endless Pleasure in a Limousine Sport 47m, 99 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
** Sweet Seduction in a Magazine Sport 50m, 99 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
The Grasper Trad 43m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
*** Gold Star Pitch 1 Sport 30m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
Eeyore Unknown 70m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
** The Gates of Janus Trad 50m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Woodstock Unknown 76m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
According to Miss Bornstein Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Burrito Unknown 12m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Doc Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Ferny Chimney Unknown 40m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Jericho Unknown 38m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Jokerman Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Thanatos Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
** Blistering Trad 30m 1.20.1. Mt Blackheath Northern Walls
* Day of Departure Trad 15m 1.20.1. Mt Blackheath Northern Walls
Raw Bits Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
16 M0 The Birdcage Aid 79m 1.8.9. The Birdcage Area
16 M3 Arc De Triomphe Aid 43m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
16 M4 ** Excelsior Aid 72m 1.8.8. SSCC4 Area
17 Llewdicrous Sport 25m 1.3. Big Top
Once You Bolt Crack You Never Go Back Sport 12m 1.3. Big Top
A Good Day to be a Duck Trad 24m 1.4.4. War Babies Wall
Pluck the Duck Sport 12m 1.4.4. War Babies Wall
Good Fortune Sport 18m 1.4.5. Grey Slab
Stormy Monday Sport 18m 1.4.5. Grey Slab
Steve Grkovic Memorial Thrutch Unknown 10m 1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall
Caterpillar Girl Trad 35m 1.5. Shipley Lower
** St Clemmen's Crack Trad 1.5. Shipley Lower
* 14 Carrot Gold Trad 35m 1.11. Heathcliff
* Side Stepper Sport 1.19.4. Upper Wall
Aceldama Trad 15m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Scruffocide Trad 18m 1.19.5. Abseil Gully
Khyber Pass Trad 48m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
*** Fire Bug Trad 76m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
* Freewheeling Trad 26m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Astragal Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Grandpa Chook Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
* Centrefold Unknown 30m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
* Handmade Jam Unknown 50m 1.20.2. Blackheath Lookout
17 M3 Orange Marmalade Aid 55m 1.5. Shipley Lower
17 M5 Tarkan Corner Aid 180m 1.17. Hanging Rock
18 Firefly Trad 8m 1.1.2. The Phoenix
Shortcut to Exposure Unknown 45m 1.1.2. The Phoenix
Kubrick Crack Trad 12m 1.3. Big Top
YonX Sport 15m 1.3. Big Top
Burning Jowls Sport 18m 1.4.5. Grey Slab
* The Bandoline Grip Sport 18m 1.4.5. Grey Slab
** Giles Bradbury Memorial Stretch Sport 5m 1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall
Hold on to Your Hats Sport 17m 1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall
* Lambeg Drums Trad 90m 1.5. Shipley Lower
St Clemmen's Crack Variant Trad 40m 1.5. Shipley Lower
Liquid Snails Sport 12m 1.7.2. Junket Pumper Area
Stephen Grunter Sport 10m, 5 1.7.2. Junket Pumper Area
* Apron Strings Trad 40m 1.8.4. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
Smooth & Crunchy Sport 6m 1.9.2. Gateway
* Johnny's Jalopies Sport 15m, 7 1.10. Celebrity Crag
Mr Scumbag Sport 15m 1.10. Celebrity Crag
* Boadicea Sport 75m 1.11. Heathcliff
* Fake Blood Sport 20m 1.11. Heathcliff
** The Rift (Pitch 1) Sport 25m 1.11. Heathcliff
* The Rift Pitch 3 Sport 20m 1.11. Heathcliff
** Unearthed DF Trad 25m 1.11. Heathcliff
Funk Soul Brother Sport 12m 1.12. Atlantis
** Bellbird Wall Sport 100m, 16 1.14.1. Bellbird Wall area
*** Bellbird Wall Pitch 2 & 3 Sport 50m 1.14.1. Bellbird Wall area
Hayabusa Unknown 25m 1.17. Hanging Rock
On The Wallaby Track Unknown 85m 1.17. Hanging Rock
Panic on Hanging Rock Unknown 80m 1.17. Hanging Rock
Figgetit Unknown 50m 1.18. Bald & Fossil Head
* Serendipitous Cracks Trad 210m 1.18. Bald & Fossil Head
** Penny Arcade P's 2 and 3 only Unknown 36m 1.19.3. Absquealers
Kabul Offensive Trad 50m 1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall
Cow Chaser Trad 20m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
*** Gold Star Trad 58m 1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall
* El Matador Unknown 92m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Kamikaze Unknown 61m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Professional Fat Lamb Man Unknown 20m 1.19.12. Walk-down Gully
Absoloodle Aid 40m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Felix Unknown 25m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Hangover Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Pink Panther Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Senile Dementia Unknown 40m 1.20. Mt Blackheath
Time Bomb Unknown 1.20. Mt Blackheath
18 M2 ** Excalibur Aid 72m 1.8.8. SSCC4 Area
18 to 19 The Answer is Obvious Sport 20m 1.4.4. War Babies Wall
19 ** Little Drummer Boy Unknown 26m 1.1.2. The Phoenix
** JinX Sport 25m 1.3. Big Top
** Jack High Sport 20m 1.4.3. Hot Flyer Wall
Original Hot Flyer Sport 15m 1.4.3. Hot Flyer Wall
* Country Special Sport 18m 1.4.5. Grey Slab
Rewind Trad 55m 1.5. Shipley Lower