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Table of contents

1. Blackheath Area 930 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.294680, -33.628216

Unique Features And Strengths:

The heart of Blue Mountains climbing.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Megalong Valley Crags 40 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.274991, -33.662966


All the mini crags in the megalong grouped together

1.1.1. James Bond 31 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.275354, -33.657030

Description:© (secretary)

This is a collection of crags that are accessed by driving down into the Megalong Valley from Blackheath. In winter they are in the sun all day and are generally protected from the wind.


Roughly 2.8km from the Blackheath end of Megalong Rd, you'll find an obvious parking bay off to the left. There's room for 2 cars (or 4 if you're all together). You'll see a wide, but mossy, log bridge which provides dry access across the creek, and then a winding and somewhat steep trail leads up to the right hand end of Main Wall. Carins mark the track. Mr Big Area 11 routes in Cliff
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.275431, -33.656673

Description:© (secretary)

Has sun from about 11.30am in winter and is protected from the wind.

Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins. Main Wall 14 routes in Cliff
Mostly Sport
Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins. The Slab 6 routes in Cliff
Trad and Sport
Approach:© (secretary)

Drive down Megalong Rd for 2.8km to parking on the left. Park smart as there is only enough room for a couple of cars. Cross the creek, via log bridge, and follow cairns up the hill. Walk is approximately 10mins.

1.1.2. The Phoenix 9 routes in Crag

Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274787, -33.662685


Small crag with some unique trad climbs. Finger cracks, and marathon slabbing!


TOP ACCESS (NEW) - Medlow Bath ~15min:


Driving West on the Great Western Highway, pass through Medlow Bath and bear left just past the Hydro Majestic Hotel onto Belgravia St. Continue straight ahead onto well-maintained dirt road. Just over 1.1km from where you first hit the dirt there are two clearings on the left, park at the second clearing (identifiable by a large flat orange rock at the back of the clearing, and an obvious footpad behind it).

Continue down the track at the back of the clearing (it dog-legs left near the start) for 200m until you come to a vague trail on the right (flanked by a cairn - it's the only obvious track heading off right). Head down the trail following red and white reflector markers and cairns. At the first rocky outcropping with the BLUE fixed rope, bear left (not right!) as you scramble down and continue down the hill with a rocky outcropping on your left. The track cuts right to another rocky outcropping, then makes a sharp turn left at a RED fixed rope (continuing straight ahead up the slab leads to the Archeopteryx Rap access - see below) and zig-zags down a gully past 3 more fixed ropes.

Where the trail flattens out, hug the right rock-wall and head down to an exposed ledge below an arete and a RED fixed rope. Follow the ledge to the right carefully, scramble down a prominent red dusty chute with help of another fixed rope, continue right to small chossy red cave (good for keeping packs dry). Rack up here, and traverse down and around the right rock-wall via the final BLUE fixed rope. At the bolt at the end of this traverse is the first pitch of Archeopteryx (21). Walk a further 8m along this ledge to the anchors for The Phoenix. Rap here 45m to the ground.

Via the Top Access, the area above Archeopteryx Wall (Above The Phoenix proper) can be walked to to allow a rap-in to Archeopteryx, or straight down to The Phoenix. Where the walk in takes a sharp left turn at a prominent tree and a RED fixed rope before the vegetated descent gully, head straight up over the slab, and directly down the bushy hill to the cliff (faint trail, but much vegetation). Near the cliff edge there is a red fixed rope attached to a tree, that leads straight to the rap anchors.

BOTTOM ACCESS - Megalong Valley ~35min++:

Overgrown and hard to find. Drive down Megalong Rd and park at the start of the Coachwood Glen 'Nature Trail'. Cross the creek. At the large boulders take the spur up the gully following cairns. At about half height head right into the gully and up to the base of cliff. Head right to the climbs. Watch out for leaches in summer.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Little Drummer Boy

FA: Julian Anderson/Chris Coghill

19 Unknown 26m
2 Smoulder 10 Trad 10m
3 Firefly

Thin finger crack 10m left of The Phoenix. Has its own lower offs.

FA: Julian Anderson

18 Trad 8m
4 * Quetzal

Soft for the grade, but very long and moderately bold. Wandery thin slab that rejoins The Phoenix at its crux (last 8m of climbing) to avoid the much harder direct finish to the top.

Originally led as one giant 50m pitch, it can be broken up into as many as 3 pitches if necessary.

6 draws + Full set of Wires + small cams (to green 0.75), and 1 x #2, and 1x #4/#5 (for The Phoenix).

From the GROUND, start up Firefly and continue past its anchors. Trend right to arete (#2 cam), then up trending left to semi-detached block (Quetzal Bolt #1), then trend right to thin flake system for a move or two, then back left, moving a few metres left at Quetzal Bolt #3), before heading back right past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Move right into The Phoenix, then up The Phoenix to top on gear.

FFA: P. Thomson, 2013

21 Mixed 52m, 6
5 * Quetzalcoatl

The harder Direct Finish to Quetzal. Can be climbed from the ground in 1 (50m) pitch, 2 pitches, or 3 pitches as desired. Alternatively, it can be climbed as a rap-in, climb-out single pitch from the Quetzal anchor.

P1 - As for Quetzal to the 2nd set of anchors (before moving right to join The Phoenix).

P2 - Thin and techy moves up and slightly right past 3 bolts to the ledge, avoiding The Phoenix.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

23 Mixed 50m 2, 8
6 *** The Phoenix

Long, sustained predominantly finger-crack climb with an exciting finish. Beautifully clean on good rock. Best done as one long 45m pitch (no rope drag). Bring the usually passive pro and doubles of cams 0.3 to 2, and singles 3, 4 and possibly 5. More small gear (0.3 and 0.4 or Aliens) keeps it sane. Be CAREUL of the loose blocks in the back of the off-width section. Crack completely re-cleaned October 2012.

FA: J. Anderson, R. Charlton, 2003

20 Trad 45m
7 Shortcut to Exposure

FA: J Anderson, C Coghil

18 Unknown 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Archaeopteryx

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch).

Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area.

P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2013

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2013

21 Sport 45m 2, 14
9 Жар-пти́ца (The Firebird)

Relatively easy climbing, in an outrageous position, marred by some rubbish rock on the arete.

Bring 1 x 0.75, 2 x #1, 1 x #2 and 1 x #3 camelots, 6 draws + anchors.

  1. 20m (15) As for Archeopteryx Pitch 1. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

  2. 25m - Up flake, then hand traverse left. After 3rd bolt, keep going left past 2 more bolts to overhanging arete. Climb arete past 0.75/#1, #2, #1 and #3 cam placements on monster jugs (peek-a-boo) and some suspect rock to top. Bring up second and walk up to anchors above Archeopteryx P2.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your section, and wall directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

19 Mixed 50m 2, 13

1.2. Logan Brae 29 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257267, -33.670114

Description:© (mjw)

Short, steep and pumpy. The mountains' version of a 'gym'.

Useful Info: This crag is on Private Property. At this stage the owners are happy for us to climb here provided that:

  • climbers remain responsible for our own safety,

  • dogs are NOT brought to the crag, and

  • residents rights are respected when it comes to parking.

Access Issues:© (mjw)

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances. The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. It's about 200m earlier:- Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

Please refrain from creating any toilet areas along the track - keep it in until you get to the crag (better to leave it at Blackheath really). If you intend walking out in the dark - pack a head torch.

Please behave responsibly, as a lot of work has been put in to maintain our access to this crag. We still need to do more work stabilising the ledge below the climbs so please leave any materials stocked at the crag as they are, dont remove any shale from below the climbs no matter how 'dangerous' you think it is and please dont throw any loose rock/shale over the cliff as it will all be used in the stabilisation work.

Respect Native Habitat - Tread Softly and Leave No Trace.

Approach:© (mjw)

The crag is situated on Shipley Rd below Berridale Orchards. Drive past the Shipley fire hut and up the hill, at the second power pole on the left park - this is 40m before 'Cliffview'. The track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area (no lazy 'shortcuts, please). The track straight ahead takes you to a very nice little lookout. Please do not park anywhere near 'Berridale' or in front of 'Cliffview'

Less than 10 minutes easy gradient walking track through a beautiful little gully full of native animals and plants (take care with the Sword Grass!).

There is absolutely no access to the crag via the gated fire trail which goes through 'Berridale', under any circumstances.

1.2.1. Main Cliff 27 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257269, -33.670104


The approach down the driveway and fire trail (described on p96 of the 2010 ed guidebook, and p56 of the 2011 Select guidebook) at Berridale Orchids must NOT be used under any circumstances. Instead, drive past the Shipley Fire Hut and up the hill, then at the second power pole park on the left (this is 40m before ‘Cliffview’, and a few hundred metres before the parking at Berridale Orchids as described in the guidebooks). The NEW track to the crag is located just to the right of the parking area. Approx 10 minutes approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gropertron

Start: The first route you come to at the crag, traversing off at crux (top) is not on.

FA: @mikllaw, 2001

25 Sport 15m
2 * Room With a View

The best warm up here.

FA: C.Hale, 1996

22 Sport 15m
3 Side Effect

Two boulders split by jugs.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

22 Sport 15m
4 ** Surprise Package


FA: J.Clark, 1996

24 Sport 17m
5 ** The Never Believers

FA: C.Hale, 1996

23 Sport 15m
6 ** Alien Signature

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

23 Sport 19m
7 ** Creep Show

FA: F.Yule, 1995

23 Sport 18m
8 * Hilti's not Guilty

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25 Sport 16m
9 ** Wedding Bell Blues

WARNING 3rd bolt is loose! [Oct 2014: yes its still loose]

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23 Sport 12m
10 * Criters

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25 Sport 20m
11 ** Kathy K

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

25 Sport 16m
12 ** Cabbage Power

Start: 'Grovel' through the dirt or Batman!

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24 Sport 15m
13 *** Demented Cabbage

Links the start of Cabbage Power into the crux section of Vertical Dementia. Keep going right at 3rd bolt of CP.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

24 Sport 20m
14 *** Vertical Dementia

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

24 Sport 18m
15 * The Diving Board

Lower pocket crux then jugs to an odd place anchor.

FA: M. File

24 Sport 15m
16 * Shaggy D.A.

Short steep little arete. Low crux then lots of jugs and a runout to the anchor.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23 Sport 15m
17 *** Dr Stein

The crag classic!!

Crux down low but plenty of funky holds and tricky moves to keep you pumping all the way to the top.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

25 Sport 18m
18 ** EIEIO

FA: M.Law, 1999

28 Sport 18m
19 ** Strawberry Blonde

FA: M.Baker, 1995

24 Sport 18m
20 ** Rain Maker

Start: Finish at the giant U.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

24 Sport 18m
21 *** Flake Maker

Go up Rain Maker and link into Shark pool at the 4th bolt. Finish up Shark Pool.

FA: David O'Donnell, 2006

25 Sport 15m
22 *** Shark Pool

FA: S.Atkins, 1996

26 Sport 12m
23 * Elastic Analysis

FA: J.Clark, 1996

23 Sport 12m
24 * Post Swing Jitters

FA: J.Kurko, 1996

24 Sport 18m
25 * Dead Man Walking

Funky 3D climbing

FA: C.Hale, 1996

22 Sport 18m

The next 2 climbs are about 80m right of the main area. They are up in a cavern, accessed via a scramble with a fixed rope.

26 ** Hip to the Bumper Crop

Thin, steep and sharp.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

29 Sport 15m
27 ** Big Hit with the Kids

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

FA: A.Richardson, 2002

28 Sport 15m

1.2.2. Lower-Again Brae 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad
Description:© (Macciza)

The lower cliff line below 'Logan Brae' 'Main Wall'

Approach:© (Macciza)

Rap-in then climb out affair.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Holey Grit - Project

Rap in, climb out. Old bolt holes viable but unnecessary as it is protectable on gear. Starts left of Grit Downunder, on left side of ledge. Boulders start leads to the odd runout sections and scoopy crux.. Very hard 23 ....

FA: Zac /Mac, 2000

Trad Project
2 ** The Grit Down Under

Great climbing up a right-hand fused flake, after a cruxy face.

Half-dozen Cams and wires - classic old school Blue Mountains 23 . . . Love it . . .

Start: Find the carrot on the shelf 2/3rds of the way along main wall, and rap in to ledge with big tree. Start in faint corner on left.

FA: Macciza, 2008

23 Trad 35m

1.3. Big Top 32 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.257915, -33.646710

Description:© (secretary)

Not the best crag in the area, but in certain conditions it is! On those (very common) winter's days when it's sunny but cold and windy as hell, mornings up at 'Big Top' can be glorious. It's protected from the prevailing westerleys and gets morning sun, making for a lovely little warm microclimate when everywhere else is getting slammed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents


First routes when heading left from approach trail.

1 ** Not in Front of the Children

Leave the tree alone and head up and right through some rather sandy stuff.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23 Sport 35m
2 * Twista

Shares a start with NifotC. Head left around the aret and up.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

23 Sport 30m
3 ** Vertical Smile

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

23 Sport 30m
4 * I've Got 3 Buttocks

new guide

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

22 Sport 30m
5 ** Abso Effing Llewdly

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 25m
6 YonX

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

18 Sport 15m
7 * Llewd Dude

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

22 Sport 25m
8 ** JinX

Great climb. Probably the best here.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

19 Sport 25m
9 * fliX

Start: As for JinX, then left.

FA: M.Pircher, 2004

20 Sport 25m


Further left.

10 * Oddly Bodly

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25 Sport 22m
11 * Martin Llewder King

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

24 Sport 20m
12 Nudely Rudely

Batman start!

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23 Sport 20m
13 * HoaX

Start: Shares a start with HV.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

20 Sport 15m
14 ** Hairy Vengeance

Start: Off boulder about 10m right of L.

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

22 Sport 30m
15 Llewdicrous

Great fun!

FA: M.Pircher, 2001

17 Sport 25m


First route at Approach trail and then follow cliff to the right.

16 * Methane Maestro

Start: Left side of the arete following flakes. This is where the track from the road comes out.

FA: L.Wishart, 1997

26 Sport 32m
17 ** Buster Gonad

extra ring added 2004

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

25 Sport 32m
18 * Blind Fate

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

21 Sport 8m
19 ** 21st Century Mucoid Man

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27 Sport 40m
20 Once You Bolt Crack You Never Go Back

FA: Nathan Bolton

17 Sport 12m
21 ** Praise the Llewd

A bolted crack!

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22 Sport 25m
22 ** Llewds Prayer

This wall has been given the name 'The Chocolate 'Crackle' Wall'. Take care.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25 Sport 35m
23 ** Why the Long Face?

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25 Sport 35m
24 ** Lord Llewd

FA: S.Grkovic, 1998

25 Sport 35m
25 * Fruit of my Loins

Start up the block just left of a bushy chimney thing for a few bolts. Then step R across the chimney and traverse 4-5m further R to bypass the band of vegetation. Then up the great arete to a really airy steep finish over the final roof.

Start: Start about 20m down right from where the track leaves the base of the big red wall.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

24 Sport 25m
26 *** Funnel to Oblivion

The name says it all!

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28 Sport 30m
27 ** Rudely Llewdly 24 Unknown 27m


Huge bolted boulder to the right of approach.

28 Mystical Lamb

Lower arete on the boulder. Bouldery start!

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

27 Sport 12m
29 Project

The line of bolts up the line of crazy non-holds, in the middle of the downhill face of the boulder. Bolted by Lee Cossey.

Start: Between TCC and ML.

Sport 14m
30 * The Clumbsy Caterpillar

The higher arete on the boulder

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

30 Sport 12m
31 * Gooey in the Wee-wee

Route to the right of the crack. Keep out of the crack!

FA: L.Wishart, 2005

27 Sport 12m
32 Kubrick Crack

The crack on the upper side of the boulder

  1. -m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FFA: G Delacy, B Stevens, 1987

18 Trad 12m

1.4. Shipley Upper 82 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271453, -33.638839


Probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Blue Mountains. It has magnificent views, mostly sport routes, easy access, and great routes from the mid-teens to early 30s. Something for everyone. It faces North-West and gets plenty of sun. Sun hits the crag at 11.30am in summer. In winter you can climb all day with the sun hitting the wall from 9.30am. Location: Access via Centennial Glen Rd. Take the Fire Trail through the gate to get to the Grey Slab end of the crag,or follow the track that heads from the carpark into Centennial Glen. Turn left at the base of the eroded steps and walk through a small glen with an old stone bath in it - Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is usually good to drink - then along the track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. (Right takes you into the Glen or down Centennial Pass to the 'Porters Pass' climbing area).

Approach:© (secretary)

Access via 'Centennial Glen' Rd. You can walk down either end of the crag and both take about the same amount of time so it doesn't really matter which way you go. To get to the right (SW) end of the crag (e.g. Sandwiches Buttress and Grey Slab), take the Fire Trail beyond the locked gate (on the left as you enter the carpark), and follow the fire trail for about 300m through low scrub with fantastic views, down a few short rock slabs with chopped steps, then turn right along the base of the crag. To get to the left (NE) end of the crag (Equaliser/Supercal areas), follow the walker's track that heads straight ahead from the carpark downhill into 'Centennial Glen'. After about 250m this takes you down a short cliffline with chopped/built steps, turn left at the base and walk about 200m to the crag, through a small glen with an old stone bath in it (Cleopatra's Bath, the water that fills this bath after rain is thought by some to be good to drink - but flows down from Blackheath so think twice), then along the dusty track under the overhangs and around left to Wall's Ledge. If you turn right at the base of the chopped steps it takes you to Centennial Glen/Porters Pass climbing areas, so it's easy to crag-hop among them all in a single day.

1.4.1. Equaliser Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272442, -33.638345

Description:© (secretary)

Stay alert when lowering the leader because they will land on the wrong side of the fence, on the slippery slope leading down to the 50m cliff below. And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. It is not a designated off-leash area: dogs must be leashed at all times. Also, the BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the observed impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. More considerate dog owners therefore might like to think about not bringing your dog at all.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Leaning Power Teaser

Batman start.

Start: About 50m past Cleopatra's Bath and about 80 metres before the fence at the start of Walls Ledge.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25 Sport 15m
2 Project

There's a lonely line of spider-webby ringbolts up the wall about 20m L of Pooferator. Bolted by Vince Day and now open? No doubt it'll be hard.

3 ** Pooferator

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2002

31 Sport 15m
4 Truck Stop 31

Links the crux of Poof into the crux of 'Equaliser'.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2004

31 Sport 18m
5 *** Equaliser

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

28 Sport 20m, 6
6 De-Equaliser

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

28 Sport
7 * La Forche Be With You

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

FA: S. Grkovic, 2002

28 Sport 18m
8 * The Horseshoe

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

FA: Vince Day, 2009

29 Sport 18m, 6
9 * Fabricator

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

FA: B.Littleford

28 Sport 18m
10 ** Cagney and Lacey

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap.

FA: Garth Miller, 1998

29 Sport 15m
11 ** Demoraliser

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

FA: J.Clark, 2001

28 Sport 15m
12 * Iron Mike

The obvious 'line' on the side of the crag. Desperate side pulling. In early 2011 some crux holds came off so now its certainly not soft for the grade.

Start: Start below the right facing corner and seam. Stickclip and batman to first bolt. Use long draws on 2nd & 3rd bolts so your rope doesn't scrub on the flake.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1995

27 Sport 15m, 7
13 ** Decodyfier

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Start: Start as for 'Iron Mike'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

29 Sport 20m
14 * The Weakest Link

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. Unfortunately a hold has been broken and the climb now is better considered 27. The crux is bolt protected.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27 Trad 22m
15 * Slay Ride

Start behind the tree 12m R of Iron Mike. Batman start.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26 Sport 20m

1.4.2. Golliwog Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271464, -33.638739

Description:© (secretary)

USE A 60M ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope when using a 50m rope on these routes - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

Also, the logs are getting a bit wobbly: stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

This sector should really be called Grand Junction sector or Displaced Persons sector, given that those routes were done more than a decade before Golliwog.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Isle of the Green-Hatted Wombat

Start: Somewhere about 30m left of Supercal.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

27 Sport 25m
2 * Krusty the Climb

The longest stick clip at Shipley, and the batman is quite a rope shredder too.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1999

24 Sport 20m

The next three routes share the same start off the access log with a fork at the top.

3 * Grand Junction

Good, but not as popular as it could be due to some poorly positioned bolts.

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

26 Sport 25m
4 ** The Eviscerator

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2001

28 Sport 30m
5 *** Supercallousfragileextradosage

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux.

Start: Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended.

FA: S. Grkovic, 1999

26 Sport 25m, 13

5m right. The next three routes share the same start up the 2nd access log.

6 ** Silently Flying By

Start 5m right of Supercal, up the log just to the right of the end of the railing. The crux will have you silently flying. Bye!

FA: M.Turnbull, 2000

25 Sport 25m
7 ** Land of Green Navels

From top of log, ooze rightwards to the line of rings, then upwards, ever upwards. A handful of cams will reduce some potentially dangerous runouts. Under the top roof there is a fixed carabiner - keep climbing through the roof (awkward) to chains at top of the cliff. Redirect through carabiner under roof to help clean it. A 60m rope works, tie a knot.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

24 Trad 30m
8 *** Alliterating Austrian Ostrich


Start: Start as for SFB, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

23 Sport 30m

The next three routes share the same start up the 3rd access log.

9 *** Weak as I am

USE A 60M+ ROPE. One of the best routes on the whole wall. Start about 15m R of AAA at the next log. Stick clip recommended. After you step L from the shared start, the next 2 bolts are in very weird spots

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

23 Sport 22m
10 ** Golliwog Grades

Up the log, then straight up. Great moves with a powerful little slab to a tricky, annoying, probably undergraded finish.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

23 Sport 25m
11 * Displaced Persons

USE A 60M+ ROPE (tie a knot). Good long training route. Start as for WAIA, stick clip recommended.

FA: S.Moon, J.Smoothy, 1986

24 Sport 33m

The next four routes share the same start up the 4th access log.

12 ** Mental Mantle


Start: Lefthand route off the 4th access tree. After the silly runout this is one of the best 23s at Shipley.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

23 Sport 27m
13 * Dance Like a Mother


Start: Righthand route.

FA: M. Stacey, G. Bradbury, 1992

25 Sport 40m 2

1.4.3. Hot Flyer Wall 20 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271021, -33.638965

Description:© (secretary)

USE A LONG ENOUGH ROPE ON THESE ROUTES!! And tie a knot in the end of your rope!!

Leaders have been dropped off the end of the rope at this crag when using a too-short rope - and there is a big risk that, even if you survive the initial fall, you will tumble down the slope and go off the 50m cliff below. Take care!

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next three routes share the same start off the 5th access log.

1 ** The Bolt and the Beautiful

Start: Left-most route off the 5th access tree.

FA: M.Pircher, 2000

25 Sport 25m
2 *** Loop the Loop

Middle route off the 5th access log. Stick clipping is optional since the first bolt was added, but clipping the 2nd is still desperate. Most people batman or silver jug to the second bolt (i.e. the original first bolt) although it can be freed at very thin 25ish. A very enjoyable and popular route on some of the best rock at the crag. One of the most popular 25's in the Mountains.

FA: C. Peisker, T. Williams, 1986

25 Sport 25m
3 ** Burning Bridges

Start: 5th access tree. As for previous, then traverse hard right and up.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1986

25 Sport 25m

Barnstorming to Hot Flyer share the same start.

4 * Barnstorming

As for 'Hot Flyer' and 'Weekend Warrior', then left a bit and up to where a wide orange streak is passed with, umm, difficulty.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27 Sport 27m
5 Original Hot Flyer / Weekend Warrior

The original start to HF. Start as for 'Hot Flyer' but traverse left after the first ring.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

19 Sport 15m
6 ** Hot Flyer pitch 1

Rap off after slab

19 Sport 18m
7 *** Hot Flyer

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below). Twisties added 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

23 Sport 25m
8 * Hot Flyer Direct Finish

Climbs right past a fixed hanger at the crux.

22 Sport 25m
9 ** Lardy Lady's Lats pitch 1 19 Sport 18m
10 *** Lardy Lady's Lats

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

22 Sport 25m, 13
11 ** Jack High

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. Safety notice: Rap rings are getting worn and sharp, take care. Do not top-rope directly through anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy,M,Stacey, 1986

19 Sport 20m
12 * Flaming Flamingo pitch 1

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab (techy start!) to anchors on ledge.

19 Sport 18m
13 ** Flaming Flamingo

1.5m right of Jack High. Up slab to anchors on ledge, but keep going up the big L-facing corner up high.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Peisker,S.Moon, 1985

24 Sport 25m
14 * Girly Germs

1.5m R. At the third bolt, you can go either way. Good solid climbing with a few tricky bits.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Sport 15m
15 * Sexy Mexi

Up Girly Germs to the second bolt and go right. Committing finish.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Baker, 2000

23 Sport 15m
16 ** Haunted Night Time Run

"You cant re-bolt an old open project and claim it as your own" - BC. Originally a Mike Law project and then passed on to Jark who rebolted it! "Reclaimed" by Ben Cossey, set free from the shackles of believed rock ownership and fat bums.

Start: As for 'Sexi Mexi' then through rooflet to lower offs. Not so good if you are 'really' short...unless you are 'really' powerful!!

Set by Mike Law

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2006

27 Sport 25m

The next four routes share the same start (two steel rungs as steps to begin).

17 Sexy When Slippery

The left-most route sharing the start of Language.

FA: M.Garben, 2002

22 Sport 15m
18 Time Slips By

As for SWS to 5th ring, then find a way through the overlap at its right end and onto the headwall above. As for Language then traverse left to 1st line of rings. An abandoned project which has had numerous ascents.

Set by Dave Stone

25 Sport 25m
19 *** Language of Desire

The original classic here. It's easy to get off route with four routes branching from the same start. This is the only one to finish up the headwall on FHs. A small cam between bolt 6 and 7 is helpful.

FA: M. Scheel, C. Martin, 1985

24 Sport 30m
20 *** A Streaker Named Desire

Excellent sustained crimping. As for Language, heading right at third bolt.

FA: V.Petersen, 2002

23 Sport 25m, 13

1.4.4. War Babies Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.270643, -33.639178

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Form One Lane

Now has its own anchors.

Start: A few metres to the right of Language at the large boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

24 Sport 30m
2 * No U-Turn

lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Martin, 1985

24 Sport 20m
3 * No Right Turn

Start as for previous route, traverse right to 'War Babies' anchor then up!

FA: G.James, 1985

22 Sport 20m
4 * War Babies

Popular. Start: Right end of the boulder. The anchor is junk, needs fixing.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

22 Sport 20m
5 Do Androids Like Duckos

Starts just right of 'War Babies' and joins 'War Babies' just before the ledge. Not as good as 'War Babies' and not any easier.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

22 Sport 12m
6 The Storm

FA: S Camps, 1986

23 Trad 20m
7 Eating Raoul 20 Unknown 20m
8 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep 21 Trad 20m
9 * Scramble Syndrome

Good moves but the good stuff ends too quickly. Rebolted 2006, this should make it a much more popular climb.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

20 Sport 20m
10 Do Androids Care

FA: P Balint, J Reily, 1989

21 Sport 15m
11 Stop Throwing Dogs 21 Sport 25m
12 Island of Doubt 21 Unknown 23m
13 Pluck the Duck

Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the vegetated ledge.

FA: C.Hale,M.Shipton, 1985

17 Sport 12m
14 A Good Day to be a Duck

Start: Carrots to the left of 'Grey Slab' ledge. Popular but stupid! Some idiot 'removed' the bolt on the halfway ledge a few years ago!!

FA: C.Hale,M.Shipton, 1985

17 R Trad 24m

1.4.5. Grey Slab 8 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.270280, -33.639403


As its name suggests, it is the prominent grey slab near the descent from the gated Fire Trail at the end of Centennial Glen Rd. Easy routes, some with rings, and some with carrot bolts. All have lower-off's.

Approach:© (secretary)

At the left end of the crag (facing out).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Answer is Obvious

Off the ledge to the left of the dead tree. Ringbolts. Good!

FA: C.Martin, 1985

18 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Country Special

Carrot bolts! Starts at the left of the two white gums.

FA: J. Smoothy, F. Lumsden, C. Martin, 1985

19 Sport 18m
3 * The Bandoline Grip

Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts.

FA: C. Martin, J. Smoothy, 1985

18 Sport 18m
4 Stormy Monday

Carrot bolts!

FA: N. Crabb, 1991

17 Sport 18m
5 * Nude Tuesday


FA: V.Petersen, 2001

20 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Burning Jowls


FA: C. Martin, J. Smoothy, 1985

18 Sport 18m
7 Good Fortune

Stickclip if you are short (tricky start). Ringbolts.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

17 Sport 18m
8 Trinity

The line of ringbolts at far right of wall. New anchor 2015.

FA: C. Martin, R Chick, 1985

13 Sport 18m

1.4.6. Sandwiches Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.269968, -33.639611

Description:© (secretary)

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pompadour

Thanks for the donation of the materials guys - you know who you are. Please make sure to keep off the vegetated ledge on the left (we'll call it an animal and plant refuge, shall we.) This route was originally a solo so bear that in mind whilst climbing it.

FA: C Martin, 1985

13 Sport 15m, 10
2 Hold on to Your Hats

Start: On the track 10m down and right from 'Trinity'.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

18 Sport 17m
3 These Dogs are Whippets

On carrots, there is a first one hiding above lip. SSCIG's rebotled 2004

FA: A. Farquar, 1989

21 Sport 17m
4 *** These People are Sandwiches

One of the more popular Shipley routes. Rebolted 2004.

Start: The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down it's left side. This is it.

FA: C. Martin, A. Penney, 1985

22 Sport 15m
5 ** These Sandwiches are Excellent

Start: Through the choss beneath the overhang. On the giant Us.

FA: M.Law, 1994

27 Sport 10m
6 * Pallets of Pies


Start: Start under the big roof.

FA: C.Peisker, 1985

24 Sport 18m
7 ** Pallets of Pies (Variant)

Avoids the crux on PoP by climbing right past two old carrots to a chain.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

22 Sport 10m
8 *** Argentine Deadline

Just right of POPV, out roof on really great rock, boulder and toe hook, slap and lob up to ancors of POPV.

Really great. ONLY ON COACH BOLTS!!! A death route unless the 1st ascentionist thinks it is worthy of proper equipping. He gives it 3*s but why would anyone bother unless it has decent achors in it? Dont 'sue' him just dont get on it unless you know you will not fall!

FA: B.Cossey, 2001

28 X Sport 10m
9 * Gallows Humour

Start: At the far right end of the overhang. Starts on the block.

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy, 1985

21 R Sport 18m
10 Papist Crop

10m right of Gallows Humour. Stump and wall right of corner

12 Sport 15m
11 Steve Grkovic Memorial Thrutch 17 Unknown 10m
12 ** Giles Bradbury Memorial Stretch

Start left of steps up roof.

18 Sport 5m

1.5. Shipley Lower 40 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.267809, -33.641556

Unique Features And Strengths:© (secretary)

This crag is a suntrap with the sun hitting the left end (Nikita wall) by 9am, and is also surprisingly well protected from the wind.

Description:© (secretary)

Has a great trad classic and several sport routes which, since recent rebolting, are among the best of their grade in the entire mountains! This is also one of the best winter crags in the upper mountains: apart from a paucity of rain protection it rivals Bowens Ck as one of the best winter choices. When its 8C and blowing 50km/h at Shipley Upper, the base here can still be quite ok! In fact you should avoid this crag if temps go over about 14C because it gets too hot!

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in as for Sail Away Wall to the bottom of the chopped steps and hand rails, then head left (SW) along the base of the cliff for a few hundred metres. For the Clockwork Orange area and beyond, it might be a little quicker to abseil in from below Upper Shipley, but unless you only want to do one route the abseil is arguably not worth the admin now that the track from Sail Away is becoming more well trodden.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Unforgiven

Leftmost route on 'Nikita' wall. 28 if you go direct (after rebolt by Steve G), 27 if you snake around right the original way (by Mikl). Great rock, especially lower half.

FA: Mikl, rebolt and direct variant Steve Grkovic, 2000

27 Sport 35m
2 * The Outlaw

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

FFA: S Grkovic, 2008

29 Sport 40m
3 ** Nikita

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

Up and right along ramp then up.

FA: J.Smoothy

FA: Mike Stacey did it at 25M1 in the age of lycra, Giles freed the start move, same grade (25)., 2000

25 Sport 35m, 16
4 ** Quran Calling

Starts approximately 100m left of Sausages and Lightbulbs, on left side of prominent arete (stay high and traverse along narrow shale ledge beneath undercut just past where the track turns left and climbs down to the lower tier). Gets early morning sun and goes into the shade after lunch.

Batman to the first jug then tip toe and crimp across the ramp and up thin wall to good holds. The climbing now gets easier up the left side long mega arête on bomber orange rock. Doubles of small cams up to .75 and some slings.

Set by Ben JengA., 2013

FFA: Ben Jenga, Paul Thompson, 2013

24 Mixed 30m, 12
5 Unknown

Starts at arête 8m L of SAL, which is marked. Looks like it joins SAL after the overhang at half height. Looks to be a rebolt of an old route? Grade indicated in chalk on the rock, I haven't climbed it!

28 Sport 25m
6 *** Sausages and Light Bulbs

30m and 16 bolts plus anchors to lower offs, 50m up easy slab with a couple more bolts.

FFA: M law, S Johns, S Moon, 1994

24 Sport 50m, 18
7 ** Brisket Tugger

Obvious thin face and sexy looking blank corner. A bit glued up, but great climbing. Don't cop out to the arete at the top!

FA: Mikl in his orange spandex days., 1936

26 Sport 50m
8 Shaken Not Stirred

Start: 50m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 15m (21) Corner and flake to roof. Out to ledge and belay.

  2. 20m (21) 'Flake' to break. Leftwards, then up right to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Left and out.

FA: T.Williams,J.Smoothy, 1986

21 Trad 50m 3
9 * Hooray for Fish

Long and varied. Not so great as a warm-up!

FA: Chris Cogsy, 2008

22 Sport 32m
10 Hot Fan Faronade

Start: 15m LEFT of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (16) Start near fallen tree. Offwidth. Climb tree to wall above chockstone. Crack and wall to top of flake.

  2. 25m (20) Up ramp and wall to break. Slab to roof. Up.

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney,R.Chick, 1984

20 R Trad 45m 2
11 Blossoms

Up the tree, right to scoop, right to breaks. Left and up to ledge. Right to slab. up. 2 pitches.

Start: Right of HFF. Near the abseil landing.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

21 Trad 50m
12 5 Go Adventuring Again

Start: 13m left of 'Clockwork Orange'.

FA: Bennet,Haines,Myers,Danielle, 1988

20 Trad 50m
13 *** Clockwork Orange

Start: Orange corner 55m right of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner to break, left to ledge, wall and stance.

  2. 25m (20) Slab to crack. Corner, around bulge. Crack to ledge. Left along the ledge to groove.

  3. 16m (15) Up the groove.

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

20 Trad 61m 3
14 * Lambeg Drums

Start: As for CO.

  1. 30m (18) As for CO to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Slab, diagonally left slab to arete.

  3. 35m (18) Up onto the slab, left of bulge and up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

18 Trad 90m 3
15 The Prozac Years

3 pitches with a nightmarish mantel at the end of the second pitch. Some of the bolts are dodgy until rebolted.

FFA: G Child, G Bradbury, 1996

25 Sport 60m 3
16 Orange Marmalade

Start: Corner 8m right of CO.

  1. 15m (17) Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (17 M3) Wall to bulge, over this onto ledge and crack. Up to roof, loose (?) flake the ledge below roof. Right to ledge and tree. THIS PITCH MAY HAVE BEEN FREED!

  3. 15m (17) Up wall.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

17 M3 Aid 55m 3
17 Aquapuppy

Start: As for OM.

  1. 20m (20) Corner to traverse. Across roof. Take care! Onto arete to ledge.

  2. 10m (19) Wall and slab. Rap here. OR traverse right to gully.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1988

20 R Trad 30m 2
18 Rewind

Start: 25m right of CO.

  1. 20m (19) Bulge. Left up crack to ledge. Belay in the gully on the right.

  2. 20m (19) Right around arete, up and right up ramp to ledge under roof. Take care! Up to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up.

FA: R.Lebreton,T.Williams, 1987

19 R Trad 55m 3
19 * The Flex

Up. Careful with flake. Up, then left to break. Right to arete. Up. Finish as for R.

Start: Faint corner with black wall below flake.

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

23 Trad 50m
20 Wildlife

Start: 3m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (21) Faint crack to slab. Belay as for 'Twinkle Toes'.

  2. 30m (21) Up and left. Travers right at steepness to ledge. Up.

FA: S.Moon,B.Cameron, 1986

21 Trad 50m 2
21 Twinkle Toes

Start: 20m LEFT of 'Bowstring'.

  1. 20m (22) Middle of black wall to ledge, slight left to belay. Take wires!

  2. 20m (22) Slab up and right to tree!

FA: T.Williams,S.Moon, 1986

22 R Trad 40m 2
22 Bowstring

Start: 100m RIGHT of CO. White right facing corner.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to offwidth roof. Corner to stance on left.

  2. 30m (18) Right into crack to big slab under roof. Right to break at end of the roof.

  3. 10m (18) Bulge and up.

FFA: W.Baird

FA: (Lassman,Bell), 2000

23 Trad 55m 3
23 Pancho Villa

Start: Yellow roofed corner 12m right of B.

  1. 20m (23) Corner, traverse right to footledge, right along break, up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) Traverse right.

FA: T.Williams,R.Lebreton, 1988

23 Trad 30m 2
24 Caterpillar Girl

Start: Narrow wall 70m right of PV.

  1. 15m (16) Up left side of wall, step right. Up bulge and wall to ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Wall and arete.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

17 Trad 35m 2
25 Cindy Sherman

Now, she was a girl...

Start: 10m LEFT of the ESCAPE ROUTE. Corner.

FA: D.Haines,R.Lebreton, 1988

22 Trad 20m
26 Escape Route

The route to do here if you have to! Take care!

Start: Right of 'Caterpillar Girl'. Below the big red roof. 10m above the track. To freedom.

9 Trad 20m
27 The Little Prince

Start: 2m right of ER corner.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

21 Trad 30m
28 The Human Factor

Start: 80m right of 'Pancho Villa' at wide crack right of roof capped red wall.

  1. 40m (20) Corner crack 10m, left to centre of wall. Up through breaks to big one below the roof. Left to belay.

  2. 35m (19) Up groove and corner.

FA: S.Moon,G.Moore,C.Martin, 1984

20 Trad 75m 2
29 Slingshot

Start: Finger crack right of THF.

21 Trad
30 ** Nuclear Winter

Start: 35m RIGHT of THF. Short steep corner.

  1. 20m (23) Corner to ledge, right and up wall to belay on sloping ledge.

  2. 25m (24) Left, up then traverse to arete. Up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

24 Trad 45m 2
31 Sidewinder

Start: Right of NW. Offwidth.

21 Trad
32 The Green Room

Start: Middle of 3 high corner cracks.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

19 Trad 30m
33 The Untouchable

Up TGR. Corner to crack. Right to arete. Up.

Start: As for TGR.

FA: T.Williams,G.Bradbury, 1986

21 Trad 30m
34 ** St Valentine's Day Massacre

Start: 15m right of 'Sidewinder'.

  1. 35m (23) Stick clip. Follow bolts. Traverse left. Up corner. Take long slings!

  2. 20m (15) Right from belay and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden,T.Williams, 1986

23 Sport 55m 2
35 ** St Clemmen's Crack

Crack right of SVDM

17 Trad
36 St Clemmen's Crack Variant

3m left to wall and narrow ledge, crack, up and mantle. Diagonally right and up (poor pro!). Diagonally left up ramp and corner to orange overlap.Traverse around nose, up right side of arete. Take wires!

Start: At SCC anchor 1.

FA: D.Grey,B.Maxwell,R.Taylor,I.Collins, 1985

18 R Trad 40m
37 ** Psycho Killer

Start: 5m up SCC. Traverse left and up. Finish as for SVDM or rap.

FA: M.Baker,J.Smoothy, 1989

25 Trad 35m
38 Whinge, Cringe, Plunge

Start: 10m right of SSC. Grey Wall

  1. 35m (23) Thin crack. Wall to ledge. Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 15m (15) Corner. Take Care!

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

23 Trad 50m 2
39 Quite Effete

Start: Roof crack 30m right.

  1. 20m (20) Up to roof, right 10m, up to break and belay.

  2. 20m (20) Up, left to orange corner/flake. Thin break. Left to arete.

  3. 20m (18) 'Arete' and wall.

FA: T.Williams,T.Carroll, 1986

20 Trad 60m 3
40 Southern Closs

Start: From QE anchor 1.

  1. 25m (20) As for QE then right to bolt. To arete and up to ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Straight up.

FA: T.Williams,L.Closs, 1986

21 Trad 60m 2

1.6. Shipley Plateau 2 routes in Crag

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bite 23 Unknown 15m
2 Sugarloaf Lovers 20 Unknown 15m

1.7. Centennial Glen 118 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274659, -33.636382


The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Approach:© (secretary)

The crag is easily accessed by two methods:

  1. Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.

(2) Park in the carpark at the end of 'Centennial Glen' Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at 'Main Wall', 'White Linen', 'Search and Destroy', 'Wave Wall' or 'Woodpecker Wall'. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for 'Junket Pumper' and 'Hip Shake Jerk' sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.

1.7.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area 15 routes in Cliff

Sport, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.274149, -33.637461

Description:© (secretary)

A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Limp Mode

Start: Batman.

FA: C.Simpson, 1998

26 Sport 15m
2 ** Turn Your Money Green

You actually get a 'grade' for the batman! 'Excellent' - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

Start: Batman.

FA: Mitch Warren

25 Sport 15m
3 * Jug Addiction

Start: Batman.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24 Sport 15m
4 * Rollergirl

Start: Batman. As for 'Jug Addiction'.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23 Sport 17m
5 * Wallace Fairweather

Start: Batman.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25 Sport 12m
6 * Wank Wank Spurt Direct

The all free version.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

26 Sport 15m
7 Wank Wank Spurt

24M0, pulling on the first bolt to reach high jug.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

24 Sport 15m
8 * Hip Shake Jerk

25M0. Start as above, pulling on first bolt. Can also be climbed free at 26.

FA: M. Stacey, 1988

25 Sport 18m
9 Open Project project Unknown
10 * Better than a Wank

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser'.

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

26 Sport 15m
11 Back Hand Tosser

Keep of the 'Arete'.

23 Sport 12m
12 Unknown 24 Sport 10m
13 Bevins Effort 22 Unknown 5m
14 Einstuevzende Neubautch

Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly up to finish as for HSJ.

FA: G Weigand, 2000

26 M0 Aid 15m
15 ** Clutching at Draws

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in. Has been erased?

FA: Gavin Portier

23 Unknown 12m

1.7.2. Junket Pumper Area 21 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275155, -33.636402


80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Running of the Bowels

Start: If you do the next 2 routes please take care of the vegetation and use the plank. They are both batman starts!

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25 Sport 12m
2 ** Roof Raider

Cruise to a horrendous boulder problem.

Start: As for the preceding route.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

29 Sport 20m
3 Stealth-Lackin' Sneaky-Snackin'

FA: Lawry Dermody, 2007

30 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Miniskirt

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Cross Larger than Life where it breaches the roof. Continue for several more meters before busting through the roof and leftward up the headwall to double rings.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

29 Sport 35m
5 *** Larger Than Life

Up WM for 3 bolts, then left as for BM, then keep going left for miles ... traverse, traverse, traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

31 Sport 40m
6 Larger Than Life Extension project Unknown
7 Brutally Yours 27 Sport 18m
8 ** Brutal Movements

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

27 Sport 25m
9 *** Wrong Movements

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite.

Start: Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1998

27 Sport 20m, 7
10 * Glad Ingram

Partially rebolted 2004, but there's still some old bolts and it has no anchor.

Start: Start as for JP.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24 Sport 18m, 8
11 Glad Ingram Direct Start 27 Sport 15m
12 *** Junket Pumper

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all.

Start: Start under the line with the biggest holds, just left of the boulder, and right of the weird tree.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24 Sport 18m
13 * Alpha Leather

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone.

Start: Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

FA: Garth Miller

31 Sport 15m
14 Squid Munching

Stick clip first bolt - you can reach it off the boulder. Short boulder problem to hamstring stretching on jugs. Back jump to clean.

Start: Start off the ground, and not on Alpha Leather!

FA: M.Warren, 2002

24 Sport 12m
15 Billy Bunter

Has been rebolted (thanks!). However, the non-ideal positions of the bolts were not rectified; extenders recommended.

Start: Start off the boulder just R of 'Alpha Leather'.

FA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy, C. Cuthbertson, 1988

19 Sport 15m, 5
16 Stephen Grunter

Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: J.Dodson, 2001

18 R Sport 10m, 5
17 * Dod the Liquid Bunter 4 Unknown 12m
18 Billy Snails

Links the start of Liquid snails into Billy Bunter. Heel hook start.

19 Sport 15m
19 Liquid Snails 18 Sport 12m
20 ** Nightmare Merchant

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible.

Start: Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

FA: B.Cossey, 2002

28 R Trad 7m
21 * Intrepid Hamster

3 tip tearing boulder problems.

FA: N.Marshal, 1997

26 Sport 7m

1.7.3. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275017, -33.635302

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ruddy Norry

On carrots, take brackets. They're mostly glue-ins, though. It's a good warm up.

Start: Start as for 'Ratcat'.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1988

22 Sport 14m, 4
2 ** Ratcat

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall.

Start: Start 4m right of the arete, at the obvious undercut mantle on the mushroomy thing.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

24 R Sport 14m
3 ** Chase the Lady

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous.

Start: Start 2m R of the EiA arete.

FA: M.Radtke, J.Smoothy, 1988

23 Sport 14m, 5
4 Ernest Lady (linkup)

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of Chase the Lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

20 to 21 Sport 14m, 4
5 * Ernest in Africa

The square arete on the R side of the main wall. Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

25 Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Nev Herrod

Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall. Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

FA: S.Butler,M.Law, 1988

23 Sport 12m, 5
7 ** Mostly Harmless

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

29 Sport 12m
8 * Iona

Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake. At the top, scamper left and lower from Madge's anchor.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1988

24 Sport 12m
9 *** Iona Hairy Sausage (linkup)

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

27 R Sport 30m
10 *** Madge McDonald

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.

FA: M. Baker, S. Wythe, 1992

25 Sport 12m, 7
11 *** Trix Roughly

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury, J. Smoothy, 1990

26 Sport 12m, 5
12 ** Essentially Trix (linkup)

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

27 Sport 12m
13 ** Bare Essentials

A bit of monkeying around.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26 Sport 12m
14 * Barely August (linkup)

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

27 Sport 12m
15 ** August 1914

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

29 Sport 12m
16 * 1914

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

26 Sport 12m
17 *** Better than Life

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

32 Sport 12m
18 (Bernie Crawley [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

24 Sport 15m
19 (Nev Luvs Trix [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

24 Sport 12m
20 (Pass the Sausage [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

26 Sport 12m
21 Bernie Loves Sausages

Start as for 'Apraxia'. Break out R at the earliest opportunity via a sideways dyno. From there, more easily sideways past a few bolts to anchors up and R. Backjump.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

27 Sport 18m
22 * Bernie Loves Tofu

As for 'Apraxia', almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

28 Sport 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 ** Apraxia

Start just R of Padington. Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

25 Sport 14m, 5
24 (Ben McAlpine [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

25 Sport 12m
25 ** Padington

Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block). Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

25 Sport 12m
26 Horrace Herod

Start just R of the boulder. The short right-facing corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

25 Sport 12m
27 Hairy Horrace

This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall. Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. Clip'n'go anchor.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

23 Sport 12m
28 Acceptably Hairy

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

23 Sport 12m
29 My Crusty Strap-on (linkup)

Links AH into the top of AC. Some say a great warm up, others... don't. You decide!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

22 Sport 8m
30 Acceptably Cosmic

The first climb on the cliff. This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law

FA: M.Stacey,J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1988

23 Sport 10m
31 The Disintegrator

Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner. If you can stick the boulder problem down low, you're home.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

24 Sport 7m
32 * Unplugged

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

27 Sport 8m
33 ** Touch and Go

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

27 Sport 10m
34 Anal Palm

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

34 Sport 10m
35 Project (Saxon) project Unknown
36 ** Hello, Leafy Green

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

23 R Sport 7m
37 *** Bowl of Milk

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

33 Sport 6m

1.7.4. White Linen Wall 15 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274387, -33.635921

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dr Foopsickle

Rebolted 2004

Short n sweet

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1988

20 Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Levitation

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

FA: J.Scarborough, 2001

29 Sport 10m
3 *** Moonshadow

Start: up levitation then move leftwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

FA: Garth Miller

33 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Search and Destroy

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

FA: Lee Cossey

32 Sport 10m
5 *** Der verrück schtark junge jakey b

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

FA: ben cossey., 2006

30 Sport 15m
6 ** Inertia

FA: L.Cossey, 2001

30 Sport 10m
7 Project Ben/Tom? Sport
8 ** Project

There is now chalk written at the start saying that this is done at 32.

Set by P Sage, 2000

32 Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * White Linen

Rebolted 2004. A great climb! There is a slight right hand variant that avoids the crux and the best moves which is referred to as Dirty Linen, 26.

FA: M. Baker, K. Carrigan, 1992

27 Sport 14m
10 ** NLJ

Very good moves, marred by the hanging swamp at the start and soft dirty rock. Stick clip the high first bolt.

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1998

24 Sport 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next three routes start about 25m L of White Linen and share the same start.

11 *** Better than Nothing

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26, maybe still is. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

FA: M. Baker, 1998

27 Sport 15m
12 ** Tutu-sullied Flesh

A good fun gymnastic route by all accounts. Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of White Linen.

FA: S. Johns, 1992

29 Sport 15m
13 ** Temptation

Hard stuff. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh then break left.

FA: L. Cossey, 2002

30 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Better than Chocolate

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

23 Sport 12m
15 Nappies Patrique?

The last route at the far left end of White Linen Wall, only about 10m to the right of Jaws on Wave Wall.

FA: M. Law, 1995

26 Sport 10m

1.7.5. Wave Wall 21 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273752, -33.636677

Description:© (aca_admin)

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jaws

Although it is not a particularly pleasant climb, it is the easiest warm-up here abouts. Considered solid at the grade, but soloed by stronger climbers. Rebolted 2004

FA: Frey Yule

21 Sport 15m, 4
2 Off the Lip

FA: S. Richardson, F. Yule, 1992

23 Sport 15m
3 *** Rubber Lover

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

25 Sport 20m, 5
4 *** Say Cheese and Die Mother F***er

Extension to Rubber Lover.

I hear you say extension to RL? 'Impossible', but one man had the curry to stand against tradition.

Start as for RL. After the anchors head up and left to the anchors of Microwave. Surprising, keeping well away from the top of the cliff! and a bit runout too

FA: rowan druce., 2004

26 Sport 12m
5 * Microwave

Another wave wall classic. Apparently used to be 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

FA: M. Baker, 1992

30 Sport 25m
6 ** Staring At The Sea

Finish as for 'Tsunami', not Tugboat.

Start: Start as for 'Microwave'.

FA: G. Miller, 1998

32 Sport 25m
7 ** Point Break

3m L of Microwave to join at its flake.

FA: L. Cossey, 2000

31 Sport 20m
8 *** Tug Boat

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Starin at the Sea at the rest hole. Form there bust straight up instead of going left into 'Tsunami', chug out the roof and finish at the top.

FA: zac vertrees, 2006

32 Trad 15m
9 *** Tsunami

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

29 Sport 25m, 8
10 *** Birthday Salmon (variant)

Radness start to 'Tsunami'.

Start: Start just right of Smoked Muscles and boulder you way into the first hard bit of 'Tsunami'.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey. Done on my birthday., 2004

29 Sport 15m
11 ** Smoked Mussels

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of 'Tsunami' then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

FA: Mark Baker

26 Sport 12m, 4
12 *** New England Clam Chowder (link-up)

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2004

29 Sport 10m
13 ** Sea Air

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts.

FA: M. Baker, 1997

28 Sport 10m
14 ** Jaqueline Hyde

Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

24 Sport 15m, 6
15 * Puddles

Extention of Jaqueline Hyde.

Loose bolt, will need replacing.

FA: Toby Benham

26 Sport 15m
16 *** Split Wave

Possibly the most popular route at the crag. Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof.

FA: D. Noble, 1990

23 Sport 20m
17 * Shore Break

Punchy crimping to ledge then steep and tricky.

Start: Start just L of SW.

FA: W. Payton, 1992

24 Sport 15m
18 * Cold Water Classic

FA: W. Payton, 1992

25 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Hang Five

This is a chop route until the shit bolts are replaced.

FA: M. Pircher, Z. Vertees, 1997

21 X Sport 15m, 5
20 * The Tube

The groovy traverse on the far left side of wave wall. Good name.

FA: K. Klein, W. Payton, 1992

24 Sport 12m
21 ** Salubrious Sewerage

Start: About 15m L of 'The Tube'.

FA: M. Adams, S. Bell, 1997

27 Sport 10m

1.7.6. Woodpecker Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273152, -33.636557

Description:© (secretary)

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

Approach:© (secretary)

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Watch It Grow

FA: J.Clark, 1997

24 Sport 10m
2 ** Crash Bandicoot

FA: C.Simpson, 1999

26 Sport 10m
3 Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport 10m
4 * No More Growth

FA: C.Hale, 1997

24 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Two Little Boys

Needs rebolting.

FA: Pommies, 1992

22 Sport 18m
6 * Woodpecker

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

22 Sport 18m
7 Underwater Love

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

23 Sport 18m
8 Duracell Bunny (aka Milky Jugs) / Milky Jugs

Start as for 'Underwater Love' then left.

FA: S.Bell, 2005

21 Sport 15m
9 Something Void

Requires a #4 Friend. Scary.

FA: G.Fieg, 1991

22 Trad 20m

1.8. Porters Pass 83 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271814, -33.635015

Description:© (secretary)

A great climbing area skirting the bottom of a huge cliffline. The area is actually on Collier's Causeway at the bottom of Cenntenial Pass.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park in 'Centennial Glen' Rd and take the stairs down to the junction of the Wall's Ledge (left) and 'Centennial Glen' (right) track. Turn right past desecrated cave. Take the lower track down through the pass (Centennial Pass, down stairs, left past the 'slippery dip'. At the bottom turn left, through fence' for 'Sail Away' area or cross the creek onto Collier's Causway. The first area you come to is the 'Dogs,Cats & Apples Wall'.

1.8.1. Rough Trade Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.638055


This is the area on the other side of the waterfall, past Sail Away Wall. Lots of rock, but not much of it really works ... with one stonking exception. Nikita Wall used to be included here, but this was a duplicate of the same info in the Lower Shipley section. Rough Trade Wall should probably be considered to extend from the waterfall for about 150m further right, until about 50m left of Unforgiven.


Walk down as per Sail Away Wall, but instead of traversing onto the ledge, turn left along the base of the crag, 6m below the Sail Away routes. The track along here is well trodden these days. Follow it for 50m until you pass the waterfall and there you go.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Valley View

Rap in and climb the wall below the left end of upper shipley, start from the hanging belay above the lip of the roof. Exposed. Don't bother.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1991

16 Sport 25m
2 ** Not as Thick as Some

Obvious thin seam visible from 'Chook Lotto' area

Start: Right side of cave just before 'Rough Trade'. Bolt at start.

  1. -m (- M7) Aid through concave roof on RURPs.Good cams when you finally reach the lip then up to bolt and piton belay. Potential groundfall territory for both leader and seconder. Be very careful.

  2. -m (- M6) Left then up fractured seam past bolt then rurps, peckers etc to belay.

  3. -m (- M6) Up twin cracks, rurps/peckers then thru roof on good pins to easy headwall (Unless it's raining) to ledge and small cave. Gear belay.

  4. -m (-) Easy scramble to top finishing at 'Shipley Upper' track where it reaches the cliff.

FA: Julian Bell / Macciza, 2000

M7 X Trad 4
3 *** Rough Trade

Classic test piece? Giles never really believed he could climb as hard as he STILL does.

Start: About 50m to the right after the waterfall.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1987

26 to 28 Sport 30m

Another 150m further right is Nikita Wall - this is described under "Shipley Lower".

1.8.2. Sail Away Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273309, -33.637341


Soaring orange wall to the left of the stairs at the base of Centennial Pass.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Myriad Armchair Yearning

Starts 2/3 of the way down the stairs before the base of Centennial Pass.

FA: B.Cossey, 2009

29 Sport 20m
2 *** Wipe Out

An awesome route, with an infamous runout finish.

Start: This is the leftmost route on the ledge, about 20m right of the chopped steps.

FA: G.Bradbury ,C.Peisker, 1985

25 Sport 30m, 8
3 ** My Pheramone

A very impressive line through the biggest part of the huge roof above Wipeout, 40m above the ground. Back-jump to clean or top out, untie and leave your draws there!

Start: Start above and left of the final bolt on 'Wipe Out'.

FA: Lloyd Wishart

28 Sport 20m
4 *** Sail Away

Another excellent long route, with a confounding crux. Originally 24 but confirmed 26 these days and even so its not soft. And once you do link past the crux... keep your wits about you on the technical finish! Start 5m R of WO.

FA: G.Bradbury, M.Colyvan, 1985

26 Sport 30m, 9
5 * Free Willy

If 'Sail Away' is a cruise then do the obvious to the top of the cliff!

Start: As for SA. Break right through overhang to the top of the cliff. Hands on top! The climb was a long and most likely stressful piece for the first ascentionist. Do it in style!

FA: N.Campbell, 2006

28 Sport 35m
6 * Fumble Factor

FA: M.Law, 2002

26 Sport 18m
7 *** Black Heathen

finishes at the lower set of anchors

FA: M.Law, 1992

24 Sport 35m
8 ** Black Heathen (extended) 27 Sport 42m
9 ** Returnity

Start: Start 0.5m R of B.

FA: M.Law, 2002

28 Sport 20m
10 ** Where Do the Geckos Go

Parts of it may have been rebolted. Take care if you do decide to do this route.

Start: Start 1m R of B.

FA: T.Williams, 1986

21 R Trad 25m
11 Project - Lee Sport Project
12 Little Empty Boat

Was Vince's project, eventually sent by Tom O'Halloran.

FA: Vince Day

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2012

33 Sport
13 Project - Rowan Sport

1.8.3. Self Portrait Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.273029, -33.637053


Shaded grey wall across Centennial Creek and on a small ledge above the track. For Chook Lotto, Done Roamin' and Chook Raffle stay on the track until just before it turns the corner.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Physical Jerks

Apparently very good - "if you have the nerves." The traverse bolts have been re-positioned, but the top is still a little run out... unless you take a cam.

Start off the same ledge as 'Vanity Case' but traverse leftwards for 10m off the ledge, then up. Put extenders/rollers on bolts 3-6.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986

25 Trad 45m
2 *** Vanity Case

One of the classic Mountain hardies. A good route on good rock.

Start: Start on the high ledge about 20m right of 'Chook Raffle'. 'Access' by climbing up near the creek.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1986

28 R Sport 30m
3 * Self Portrait with Pipe and Bandaged Ear

Blasts straight up the awesome wall. Treat the grade with suspicion.

Start: Start as for 'Vanity Case'.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

28 Sport 30m
4 ** Self Portrait

Even better than Vanity Case? 'Fantastic' rock.

Start: Start as for 'Vanity Case'.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1993

29 Sport 30m
5 * Chook Lotto

A neat sport route, with really enjoyable climbing and rock. Marred only by an ugly and desperate little move at the start. Used to have loose bolts but these have been fixed (as at 2014).

Start: Start in the obvious corner.

FA: John Smoothy, 1992

23 Sport 20m
6 ** Done Roamin', Done Carin', Done Livin'

Apparently ok, but rarely done.

Start: Start right of 'Chook Lotto', off the same boulder.

FA: The first ascent was led on sight with skyhooks, teeth, and little bolts that fell out on a bitterly cold day in June. Mark Radke, Jane Cooksey, Mike Law., 1988

25 Trad 25m
7 * Chook Raffle

Desperate arete hugging.

Start: Start a few metres right of 'Chook Lotto'.

FA: Greg Child, Mike Law, John Smoothy, 1992

26 Sport 25m

1.8.4. Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272500, -33.636935


The first wall on the right as you break into the sunlight. The routes from 'So, Said the King through to Aniseed Arete' are on a ledge above the track the others start on track level.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Apron Strings

The crack and slab at the left end on the wall. Has a lower off of sorts.

FA: L.Nordick, 1991

18 R Trad 40m
2 Thrust Gut

Starts on the path below the Dogs, Cats and Apples ledge and finishes up sstk. Soft tick

FA: Greg Childs

26 Sport 20m
3 ** So, Said The King

Start: Left hand route off the ledge.

FA: Mitch Warren

21 Sport 20m, 8
4 * Sparkle Motion

Keep off 'Nylon Happy' to earn the grade and another star.

FA: Claw

25 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 *** Nylon Happy

Rebolted 2004. '23' in the 2015 Blue Mountains Guidebook. Rest assured that it is indeed 22.

Start: Under the crack/seam in the middle of the wall.

FA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, M. Radke, 1988

22 Sport 20m
6 ** These Apples Must Be Jen's

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, 1991

24 Sport 20m
7 ** These Dogs Must Be Pru's

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, 1991

27 Sport 20m
8 ** Ness is Best

FA: Mike Law

25 Sport 20m
9 ** These Cats are Full Of Milo

This is basically a retrobolt of dragons egg

FA: M.Warren, 2003

23 Sport 20m
10 ** Dragon's Egg

Has been retro-bolted with ring bolts and has a new finish out to the left after rooflet.

Start: 3m right of Ness is Best, by the tree.

FA: M Radke J Cooksey, 1988

23 Sport 25m
11 * Flirting With the Spanish Dancer

Rebolted 2004

FA: J.Smoothy, 1995

23 Sport 20m
12 ** Powerbra Rangers

A good way to ease into this little wall. Has a couple of extra bolts so no longer run out

FA: 2003

19 Sport 23m, 8
13 Honeycomb

A bit of an unknown quantity. be solid at the grade an know Bluey's rock.Requires gear and wanders about. 3 pitches.

FA: R.Lassman,K.Bell, 1972

14 R Trad 70m
14 * Nice Vice Baby

Climb next to Powerbra Rangers.

1m right of Honeycomb, bolt at start for belayer,start off ledge and follow bolts to roof, pull around roof to DBB.

FA: V Peterson, 2010

20 Sport 20m, 9
15 * Chester and Jean

Scramble along ledge to BRs

  1. 80m (20) Up through over hang and jughaul to belay ledge.

  2. -m (-) Wander about through easy territory past BRs on the left side of arete to belay.

  3. -m (-) Walk of to 'Woodpecker Wall'.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1997

20 Sport 80m 3
16 Aniseed Arete 12 M3 Aid 82m

1.8.5. Chasing Amy Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272167, -33.636341


The next wall along the track (Collier's Causeway). the routes start on a ledge above the track, Chasing Amy is the 'seam' on Fixed Hangers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1800Traverse

Starts as for CA then traverses left as far as possible.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

19 Sport 20m
2 Angry Beaver

Start as for Ca then left.

FA: S.Moon, 2000

21 Sport 20m
3 Pussy Wallow

Careful on the unnecessary runouts, there's some ledge fall potential down low.

Start: Start as for CA.

FA: M.Law, 2000

22 Sport 20m, 5
4 *** Chasing Amy

Straight up the wall following seam in centre of wall. On fixed hangers.

FA: J.Smoothy, G,Short, 1997

21 Sport 22m
5 ** Cutopia

Crimpy Slab

FA: M.Law, 2000

23 Sport 20m
6 ** Spread 'em Baby

FA: V.Petersen, 2000

22 Sport 25m
7 Tricky Dicky 15 Unknown 44m

1.8.6. La La Land Area 7 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.272041, -33.636092

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Escape Velocity

Start as for Sesame St - marked on the boulder. Then straight up and to the left of 'La La Land'. Finishes at LLA anchor.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

24 Sport 20m
2 *** La La Land

Has become a favorite for aspiring 24 leaders.

FA: S.Moon, 2000

24 Sport 25m, 8
3 ** Legoland

Used to have a runout but now eliminated by an extra bolt.

FA: Chris Coghill

22 Sport 27m, 9
4 * Sesame Street

Should be rebolted - retro that is!

Start: At groove 10m left of waterfall. Marked SS.

  1. 70m (21) Climb to ledge, move right and belay.

  2. -m (-) Corner to flake, up and right to crack and flake. Belay on ledge.

  3. -m (-) Turn roof and belay at TREE above!

FA: G.Child,G.Bradbury, 2000

21 R Trad 70m 3
5 * Sesame Street P1 21 Unknown 25m
6 * Shocking Pocket Monster

Shallow corner just after the waterfall. Apparently the 'original' start of the FFA of 'Sesame Street'!

FA: V.Petersen, 2000

22 Sport 15m
7 The Bevanator

Heinous boulder problem.

FA: B.Ashby, 2010

27 Sport 10m

1.8.7. Thrustblock Area 8 routes in Cliff

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.271695, -33.635566


There is a steep track down and around the corner from Sesame St Area that head`up towards the great chimney - Thrustblock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wichetty Grub Chimney 15 Unknown 50m
2 Project (Moss-1)

A direct middle section of 'the mind boggles'

Set by S.Moon

project Unknown Project
3 ** Damian's Effort 23 Sport 20m
4 *** The Mind Boggles

Start: 'Small' shaded wall about 50m before the track up to SSCC4. The chossy offwidth crack corner type thing to the left is 'Thrustblock 80m M5'.

FA: D.Taylor, 2001

23 Sport 40m
5 *** Thrustblock

Trad territory - Was 18M5

Full Rack of Cams plus med -large wires.

Start: On the other side of buttress from HR Huge offwith corner chimney - marked.

Original aided up seam. Free version tackles offwidth and left roof.

FA: Bell, 2000

FFA: Darragh, 2006

24 Trad 85m
6 *** End over Belly

Arete left of Thrustblock. Up on small edges on both side of arete to sit down rest. up a bit more, then left on small holds to finish up wall.

Set by S.Meng

FFA: stephan meng, 2015

27 Sport 20m
7 Viva La Vioxx

Start as for Thrustblock, traverse out across left wall to arete and up it.

FA: Z.Vertrees, D. Taylor, 2010

25 Sport 70m 3
8 The Left Hand Path 19 Unknown 82m

1.8.8. SSCC4 Area 14 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271267, -33.635085

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Descartes 16 Unknown 68m
2 Deep Sea Diver

Take some gear. Batman to carrot on lip, 1m L of the arete 3m left of Pyro. Follow carrots.

FA: J.Pearson, 1988

24 Trad 40m
3 Pyro

Corner and little roof to belay.

Start: This is the corner at the left hand end of the SSCC4 slab.

FFA: R.Reynolds

FA: D.Klees,G.Wurth, 2000

23 Trad 70m
4 * Destination Void

Carrots to the left of SSCC4. Also requires gear, but don't fall on it. Needs rebolting!

FA: mark radtke jsmoothy, 1988

FFA: @mikllaw, 1993

23 R Trad 25m
5 *** SSCC4

Sustained slab. 2 pitches both 25m. Has been rebolted to an extent.

FA: M.Law,D.Whitehouse, 1993

24 Sport 50m
6 *** Bareback P1 22 Sport 25m
7 *** Bareback

Very good. Has 2 totally different pitches.

Start: Left of Excalibur. The Line on ring bolts.

  1. 27m (22) Very trad, for a sport pitch. Corner to faint arete.

  2. 20m (25) One of the best aretes in the mountains!

FA: V.Peterson, S. Clark, 2004

25 Sport 47m 2
8 ** Excelsior

Crake and groove. Overgrown. Would probably be quite good with a few litres of 'Round Up'. Dont you Dare! Marked. Note : is M4. A version (?) of this route has been freed by Lee Cossey in 2004.

Start: 50m, pitch 1 20? pitch 2 22?, belay on 'Bareback' rap anchor, not so dirty. all natural pro except anchor, can climb and rap on a single 60m rope, start either as for 'Bareback' and head right unprotected on solid rock or start as for excelsior a bit choss. h

FA: K.Bell,R.Lassman, 1972

FFA: (?) Lee Cossey, 2004

16 M4 R Aid 72m
9 ** Containment Line

Starts right of 'Excelsior', up chossy arete to awesome face on fixed hangers (red). 'Excellent' climbing! has a bit of reinforcement at the top.

FA: G.Childs, 2002

27 Sport 25m
10 ** Excalibur

Chimney through jungle. Has 2 pitches and a carrot up ther somewhere. M2

FA: K.Bell, R.Lassman, 1972

18 M2 R Aid 72m
11 ** Soul Catcher

Through choss - bolted and up to a belay. then head up a scary arete. Barndoor all the way!

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

25 Sport 70m
12 ** Lucifer's Hammer
  1. 20m (20) Start as for Hazard Reduction but continue straight up and into corner. Through the steep bit to a hanging belay.

  2. 40m (25) Left and up wall for about 6m to break, then R (Soul Catcher goes straight up the arete at this point) and up the middle of the beautiful face to lower-off.

FA: M.Radke,J.Smoothy, 1988

25 Sport 60m
13 ** Hazard Reduction

Line of FHs on the wall R of the chossy chimney. Head for the exposed right arete. After pulling through the roof, you are rewarded with a delightfully sculpted arete. Chain lower-off.

FA: G.Childs, 2002

25 Sport 27m
14 Bewt Root 19 M1 Aid 92m

1.8.9. The Birdcage Area 8 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.271988, -33.631938


About 400m or so along the Causeway and up through the bush above the track. The Birdcage is the big guano plastered corner.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project - Marco

Left of the access route.

2 Twisted Reality

10m left of the Birdcage. First pitch can be used to access the ledge above.

FA: Vince Day, 2000

FA: R.Bombala, V.Day, 2007

28 Sport 55m 2
3 *** Arch Enemy

Position Plus!! Corners,face, roofs,slabs... what more do you want!!

Start: Climb Twisted Reality first pitch at 22 (35m), starts 10 metres left of 'Birdcage'. Traverse right across unprotected ledge to belay stance on ledge below overhung corner

FA: Adrian Laing, 2007

27 Sport 25m
4 Project Sport
5 Final Flight

Up project to 2nd bolt then right to scoops and arete.

FA: C.Coppard, 2007

27 Sport 20m
6 The Birdcage 16 M0 Aid 79m
7 Project (Lee) project Unknown
8 *** Pitch Blank

Three great pitches, varying in style.

Start: Start 3 meters right of The 'Birdcage'.

  1. 25m (24) A little sparsly bolted but well within the capability's of anyone up for the next pitch. Trend right following 5 rings to the belay.

  2. 12m (30) Very thin on beautiful rock. Up three bolts then right past another two, ignore the direct finish unless you are after a mighty challenge. Onto the grey rock and into belay cave.

  3. 20m (23) Lovely way to finish it off. Follow rings up headwall and over the top to rap chain.

FA: Lee Cossey, Andy Richardson, 2006

30 Trad 57m 3

1.9. Gateway & Fort Rock 19 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.272564, -33.631589

Description:© (secretary)

Two small upper cliff outcrops with some surprisingly good rock by Blueys standards, although also with a few snappable edges still lurking.

Access Issues:© (secretary)

You can come in from Thirroul Ave along what looks like a bush track, but this actually involves trespassing on the school land.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk in from Bundarra St for 10 mins to Fort Rock, then continue west down the hill to a track / firebreak which contours around the hill. Fort Rock Crag is the first on the left about 200m from Fort Rock, or continue another 300m to the Gateway walk down.

1.9.1. Fort Rock Crag 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272447, -33.632532


Not to be confused with Fort Rock, which is the 4m high rock outcrop / lookout at the top of the hill at the end of the Fort Rock walking track. While not a new crag it seems to have been forgotten about, which is a shame as the routes are quite good. Especially if you need a better warm up for Gateway than a tweaky 24. Crag faces west-southwest and is slightly overhung, so its shady until mid arvo. Apart from one route all the routes need some trad gear. And rebolting!


About 300m from Fort Rock, walk down at the North end of the crag. The track is faint, bring clippers and make some cairns to help prevent track braiding.

Descent Notes:

The two central routes share lower-offs, the rest you have to top out then walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Company C

No anchor - either top out or veer 5m R to the DRB above RtA.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22 Trad 16m
2 ** Remember the Alamo

The middle route with good shiny FHs and lower-off.

FA: John Smoothy G.Williams, 2002

23 Sport 15m, 7
3 * F Troop

The route on old rusty carrots just right of the centre of the crag and the FHs. Juggy start (medium cams) to high BR, then nice wall climbing past another 3 BRs to trad finish (#2 Camalot + medium wire). Use shared lower-off with Remember the Alamo.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1989

22 Mixed 16m, 4
4 * Cheddar

Old carrots, trad in between, and no lower-offs. Looks like it would be quite good if all this got fixed.

FA: M.Wilson, 1989

22 Trad 16m
5 * Rogue Fort

Old carrots, trad in between, and no lower-offs. Looks like it would be quite good if all this got fixed.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1989

21 Trad 16m

1.9.2. Gateway 14 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.272713, -33.631058

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tower of Orthank

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

29 Sport 6m
2 Smooth & Crunchy

Used to go all the way to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy sometime last century., 2000

18 Sport 6m
3 *** Image Magic

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29 Sport 12m
4 *** Next Dimension

Pack your shorts full of rocket powder and cast off into the unknown, where you'll find rad boulder moves and shiney golden eyes, power through the bulge and fly to freedom.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27 Sport 12m
5 ** Gateway

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

28 Sport 10m
6 ** Enemy at the Gate

Deemed impossible by many who've tried. An iron will and mastery of the mind is all that is in common with ascensionists of this climb.

FA: J.Clark, 2003

26 Sport 10m
7 ** Super Sprinkle Cake

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

FA: G.Miller, 2004

28 Sport 18m
8 *** Middle Earth

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

29 Sport 10m
9 *** Double Adapter

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

31 Sport 15m
10 3D aka Gateway Super Loop Open Project

FA: Step up and fight. A FA means nothing if you don't 'let' someone on it, 2000

11 *** Fighting Urak – Hai

FA: B.Cossey, 2003

30 Sport 10m
12 * The Amateur

The best warm up here.

FA: A.Watts, 2004

24 Sport 12m
13 ** The Professional

Traverse the lip to finish at 'Middle Earth' anchors.

Start: Starts up 'The Amateur'.

28 Sport 15m
14 ** De Art

Around the corner in the White Cave.

FA: L.Cossey, 2003

27 Sport 8m

1.10. Celebrity Crag 14 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271239, -33.627370


Park at the west end of Burton St Blackheath. Follow the bushwalkers' trail, signposted to Porters Pass, for 10 minutes down into a ferny creek. Rock Hudson is the overhang cliff on the other (north) side of the creek, immediately above the track. To get to Jimmy Cliff where the most popular climbs are, follow the walker's trail across the creek (ignore the "lost climbers" trail which stays on the left/south side of the creek, the first bit is muddy and sketchy), walk downstream beneath Rock Hudson for 30m, then leave the bushwalkers' trail and cross back over to the left/south side of the creek. The climbers' path leads another 30m downstream to the ledge/slot/crawl (further details below).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Rehab Boulder

The obvious boulder on the right hand side of the track just after you cross the creek (opposite side to the stairs).

1 * Rehab

Start at far right end of the boulder, traverse left to opposite end (at tree). Stays mid/low. 22 moves.

FA: Christopher Welsh, 1999

V3 Boulder

Rock Hudson

2 ** 0055 Hot Wet Action

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23 Sport 15m
3 * Truly Madly Deeply Steeply

FA: S. Steward, 1995

21 Sport 15m
4 ** Geek Heathen

FA: J. Clark, 1996

23 Sport 15m

Jimmy Cliff

The following 7 climbs are on Jimmy Cliff which is found by walking carefully around the path and to the left via a narrow cut-out ledge. Given the height of the drop below, it's worth taking your pack off so it doesn't hit the roof of the low slot and throw you off balance. There is a ringbolt at each end to allow you to set up a 10m safety line if you wish. The first four routes get sun from about 1pm, but the other three routes are 10m further right amongst the trees, and are well shaded by the foliage all afternoon.

5 ** Mr Christmas Poo

FA: J. Clark, 1995

20 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Butt Nuggets

Lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Kurko, 1995

19 Sport 15m
7 * Johnny's Jalopies

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18 Sport 15m, 7
8 Mr Scumbag

WARNING: On 31/03/15, this climb had red tape on the first bolt and a "LOOSE ANCHORS" warning written in chalk at the base.

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18 Sport 15m
9 Anal Leakage

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

19 Sport 12m
10 * Hark! The ..

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

20 Sport 12m
11 * Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

23 Sport 12m

Cliff Richard

12 ** Good but Fucking

FA: S. Steward, 1995

20 Sport 15m
13 ** Blah Blah Woof Woof

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23 Sport 15m
14 Project (Frey) project Unknown

1.11. Heathcliff 37 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.268980, -33.627315

Description:© (rogerb)

A reasonably remote-feeling big cliff which catches afternoon sun when it's cold. Mainly sport routes plus a few classic cracklines.

Approach:© (rogerb)

Approach as for Celebrity Crag, but the trail then drops down into the gully and contours around and up to the cliff. The track is not very good and not very defined - be prepared.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Unearthed

A good 4-pitch gear route around the south side of Heathcliff. Bring a double set of wires and cams (a #4 cam is useful for the roof traverse on p2, but not required as there is smaller gear nearby). Beware of some loose rock on all pitches, particularly the large death block midway up p1 on the left.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner crack, belay at second shale band beneath roof crack.

  2. 20m (19) Rightward traverse under roof with feeling. Pull the corner, up to ledge.

  3. 40m (19-20) Steep crack to easy gully. Belay below yellow/orange corner.

  4. 20m (19) There are several finishes, but direct up the corner is good, despite the poor looking rock. Belay off carrots on top. Walk off.

FA: R McLoughlin,D Murphy,M Wilson, 1998

20 Trad 110m 4
2 ** Unearthed DF

P4) Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger, D Smith, 2004

18 Trad 25m
3 Blind Leading the Blind

Start in the same corner as 'Unearthed'

FA: M Wilson,R McLoughlin, 2000

22 Trad 30m
4 * Worrying Heights

Undercut corner 8m left of 'Unearthed'.

  1. 20m (20M1)

  2. 40m (22)

  3. 15m (18)

FA: M Wilson,R McLoughlin

22 M1 Trad 110m 3
5 Unnamed

Undercut corner 20m left of 'Unearthed'

FA: M Wilson,R McLoughlin, 2000

20 Trad 20m

The following routes are on the main wall and listed from left to right

6 Savage Bliss

First two pitches are sport on rings, gear is needed for the third pitch.

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

Start: At left end of the crag.

FA: M Scholes,I Valenta,B Helmrich, 2007

25 Trad 60m 3
7 *** Spurs of Barren Jangling

Up the middle of the wall about 10m right of a big corner.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

23 Sport 35m
8 Pete Rhodes

This is an access pitch to the next three routes. Start below a big pillar on the wall about 10m up.

FA: I Valenta, 2008

19 Sport 25m, 9

The next three pitches start at the anchor for 'Pete Rhodes'.

9 ** Hawk's Nest

The left line of the three.

FA: I Valenta,R Dun, 2008

23 Sport 22m, 9
10 *** Ricardo Lagos

The middle line and pick of the three.

FA: I Valenta, 2008

22 Sport 20m, 9
11 Dan Rampe

The right line of the three.

FA: M Scholes,I Valenta, 2008

22 Sport 20m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 ** Spook

Crack to chains.

  1. 25m (20)

  2. 20m

  3. 15m

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

20 Trad 25m 3
13 A Bit like the Grose
  1. 18m Start as per 'The Rift', a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. 20m Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. 22m Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finsih up pitch 3 of the Rift if you dont have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

20 Sport 60m 3, 10
14 *** The Rift

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (18) Up slab.

  2. 20m (19) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (19) Up arete

If you climb with double 50's you can abseil straight off the rings. A 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19 Sport 55m 3
15 ** The Rift (Pitch 1) 18 Sport 25m
16 *** The Rift Pitch 2 19 Sport
17 * The Rift Pitch 3 18 Sport 20m
18 ** Wise Crack

Start: Just left of the block.

  1. 25m (20)

  2. 30m (17)

FA: R Dunn, I Valenta, 2004

20 Trad 25m 2
19 ** Chip Off the Old Block

Start: Off the top of the block. Stepping right onto slab

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

19 Sport 25m, 10
20 * 14 Carrot Gold

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta, R Dunn, 2004

17 Trad 35m
21 ** Centre of block

Step off centre of block up shallow dihedral to shared anchors with 'Chip Off the Old Block'.

21 Sport 15m
22 * Plumbers Crack

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for 'Chip Off the Old Block'

Start: At obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun, I Valenta, 2004

19 Trad 26m
23 * A bit of Everything

Start: As for 'Plumbers Crack' .

  1. 30m (17)

  2. 25m (18)

  3. 25m (19)

FA: I Valenta,V Valenta

17 Trad 3
24 ** Pumpkin Puree
  1. Hard start on incuts

  2. Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings.

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

22 Sport 50m 2, 10
25 ** Skuzeeney Jaludek

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

FA: I Valenta,V Valenta

22 Sport 20m, 8
26 *** Thing 2


  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

22 Sport 65m 2
27 *** Thing 2 - Pitch 1

Up flake and then right and up. All rings

FA: John Smoothy, 2000

22 Sport 20m
28 ** Thing 2 (pitch 2)

FA: J.Smoothy/ G.Williams, 2000

20 Sport 48m
29 * Thing 1

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: J Smoothy G Williams, 2000

21 Trad 60m 2
30 ** Thing 1 (pitch 1)

FA: Smoothy/ Williams

20 Trad 28m
31 ** Leighsageezer

Start: Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin Moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout!

FA: I Valenta R Dun, 2004

23 Sport 60m 3
32 ** Leighsageezer Pitch 1 22 Sport 25m
33 ** Bad Blood

Start: At far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Some loose rock.

  1. 25m (19) Hard move off the ground then up groove and juggy wall

  2. 15m (22) Straight up steep Wall

FA: I Valenta,R Dun, 2004

22 Sport 40m 2, 17
34 * Bad Blood P1

FA: 2004

19 Sport 25m
35 ** Fake Blood

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath, Tony Williams, 2003

18 Sport 20m, 10
36 * Boadicea
  1. 30m (18)

  2. 40m (10)

FA: G.Short,W Williams, 2007

18 Sport 75m 2
37 * Milarepa

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

13 Trad 30m

1.12. Atlantis 33 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.315010, -33.608713

Description:© (mjw)

A lost world. Protected from the wind and sunny. Good for mid winter. Can be hot as hell in the summer!

Useful Info: Many of the bolt are working themselves loose so take care. If you want to do the easy climbs above the 'Dust Bowl' you will need to climb eithwe 'Hillbilly' or 'He-Man'!

Approach:© (mjw)

Drive down Hat Hill Rd past the emergency airfield (big sandy area on the left) the road turns to dirt here. Turn left at the next road - Godson Ave. Park on the right at the obvious bend. Take the fire trail until it runs out, head left (there is a track going straight ahead) follow track down below first small cliff then right around the small cliff to pick up track again. Fixed ropes down second small cliff, then right under cliff and above Hat Hill Creek. Continue past first 3 routes for 15m to steel rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Herminator

Start: The far lefthand route on the ledge. Watch out for the bees!

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

25 Sport 23m
2 *** Highside

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

23 Sport 23m
3 ** Hoderlump

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

24 Sport 23m
4 ** Hysteresis

needs new bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1997

23 Sport 23m
5 * Histrionix

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

22 Sport 23m
6 ** Hisbollah

FA: M.Pircher,J.Smoothy, 1997

24 Sport 12m
7 * Hillbilly

Start: The 1st route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher,G.Trutnovsky, 1997

24 Sport 15m
8 ** He-Man


Start: In the cave. Traverse to arete and up.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

26 Sport 15m
9 *** She Male

Steepness Plus.

Start: As for He Man but straight out through the roof.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28 Sport 15m
10 * The Fat Controller

Start: Batman. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

29 Sport 20m
11 Nancy Boy

Extension is open for takers.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26 Sport 15m
12 * Leftism

Start: Above small boulder to the left of the access point. Traverses left.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24 R Sport 18m
13 ** Forever Midnight

Start: As for L but straight up.

FA: Derek Toulalan

27 Sport 20m
14 Funk Soul Brother


Start: Traverse from 'Hillbilly' anchors right. 'Access' for the next 3 routes.

FA: M.Pircher,S.Grkovic, 1999

18 Sport 12m
15 * Kung Fu Fighting

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

22 Sport 12m
16 * Fast as Lightning

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23 Sport 12m
17 * A Little Bit Frightening

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

23 R Sport 12m
18 Project 1 project Trad
19 * Gluten Glutton

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25 Sport 15m
20 * The Diary of Ann Spank

FA: S.Steward, 1998

24 Sport 15m
21 * Rooky of the Year

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

24 Sport 15m
22 * Strutt Your Funky Stuff

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23 Sport 15m
23 * Who the Fuck is Alice?

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23 Sport 15m
24 * Greg's Route

1st route on the ledge. Above and right of fixed rope.

FA: J.Grant, 1998

22 Sport 15m
25 Project (John) project Unknown
26 Wingman Anytime

Start: Lefthand route on the ledge proper.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21 Sport 15m
27 Bullshit Iceman

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22 Sport 15m
28 Twenty Something

FA: S.Steward, 1997

23 Sport 15m
29 Eurotic

Start: Righthand route on the ledge.

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22 Sport 15m
30 Driving the Fat Farang

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

20 Sport 13m
31 Same Same But Different

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

22 Sport 13m
32 Subwoofer

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

19 Sport 13m
33 Project Trad

1.13. Hat Hill Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.317987, -33.606196


West facing cliff in progress.

Descent Notes:

Rap anchors on all routes.


Neil and co weren't the first visitors this to cliff. They found one old FH and dynabolt and some ringbolt notches on the left wall - circa 2000s?

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Mad Hatter

Starts at left edge of cave, on the right side of the orange overhung wall. Undercut start then up slopers to big break. Big reach to next break then hand traverse left across jugs to crux move going back up again. Finish up sustained edges then easier ground.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25 Sport 17m, 8
2 ** Fedora

Central line of the overhung orange wall. Starts just right of small tree growing at base of cliff. Sustained pumpy climbing on mostly big jugs. Runout to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

22 Sport 18m, 8
3 Charcoal Is The New Black

New jenga project in the works.

Hard move up the mini arete to start then traverse right under the roof for 5m then let the big dynamic moves start. Bolting in progress.

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Walk 50m left along narrow vegetated ledge to flat ground and vertical wall with major right facing slabby corner crack.

4 Swallow the Fly - Neil's project

Left facing flake up overhung orange wall on left side of crag. Starts in small cave with undercut start onto shelves. Figure the lower crux (go direct if you are super tall, or slightly right). Amble up slabby section for a few metres then blast up the big flake.

Sport Project 20m, 9
5 Corner crack (project?)

May have been climbed previously. At left of cliff is this slabby splitter hand crack corner. It ends at roof - traverse right and up into thin corner (old piton and screw gate in crack). At top of corner traverse left (maybe - looks hard) into easier left facing corner finish. Lone dynabolt and FH on top of cliff to belay from.

Trad 18m
6 Hat Trick - Bundy Project

Start at base of arete, and get established on thin holds. Up wall to big moves on the orange streak. maybe 24ish ??

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 18m

1.14. Pulpit Rock 16 routes in Crag

Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.327786, -33.621077


Turn onto Hat Hill Road, Blackheath. Continue along the dirt/bitchumen road and turn right onto Pulpit Rock Road. Drive until you reach the sigh for Pulpit Rock and park your car here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The crack behind

FA: C Ivan, T Battey

9 Unknown 63m
2 Cleft Palate 11 Unknown 90m
3 Easy Route 10 Unknown
4 Lectern 13 Unknown 17m
5 Rostrum 9 Unknown 16m
6 Arete of atonement

FA: H Brotchie, R Vining

8 Unknown 42m
7 Soap Box 8 Unknown 23m

1.14.1. Bellbird Wall area 9 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:© (bundybear)

Steep North East facing wall, 100m high, and a 50m high lower cliff.

Approach:© (bundybear)

A good wall for hot afternoons (take a jumper, it by very cold if the wind picks up) and cold mornings (we've climbed in t-shirts while it's snowing there). There are also some older routes described in the Warwick Williams Grose Guide on the wall below the lookout and on the actual 'Pulpit' Rock below the lookout, and a modern mixed route on the lower cliff directly below Bellbird wall area.

Access: Park at 'Pulpit' Rock (Hat Hill Rd, Blackheath) carpark and walk down towards the 'Pulpit' Rock lookouts. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) about 200m down the track. Follow the evident track that trends right leading you to the cliff top. The left most rap station is over 'Stone Poem'. The rap station over the Next Doctor (also used for Bellbird) is to the right and further down hill. A single bolt can be seen and clipped as a safety to help reach around to the two RB anchors. There is a third anchor at the top of Bellbird but this is not recommended for rapping unless you were to leave extended slings

BellBird Wall is in Red, other routes as marked on Topo. BellBird and 'The Next Doctor' have shared rap station.

'Under the Influence' is accessed from the base of the 'Bellbird Wall' double raps, then by walking around sandy alcove (climbers left) to short rap off bolts down gully, and another rap from the routes belay bolts to base of lower cliff. See topo for this route.

GPS co-ordinates for the top cliff rap point are S33 37.244 E150 19.739

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Next Doctor Pitch 1 22 Sport 35m
2 The Next Doctor Pitch 3 20 Unknown 12m
3 *** The Next Doctor

Grand arete, shade by 1 in Summer. 2 x 50m raps to tree on ledge.

Start: Market in Blue on topo

  1. 50m (22) Start on right and up.

  2. 35m (23) Move belay to rings on right side of ledge. Up to good ledge on arete. Hard for the grade...

  3. 15m (22) Straight up to rap anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Vanessa Peterson, Mike Law, 2009

23 Sport 100m 3
4 *** YAKs in Space

Up and launch out to the right with 100m+ of air below you to arete, then up to anchors. Out there !

Either lower off back to the belay, or top out and bring a 2nd up to clean.

Start: Rap is as per tND final pitch.

FA: Bundy and Doddy, 2009

21 Sport 16m
5 *** Bellbird Wall Pitch 2 & 3 18 Sport 50m 2
6 Beggars Belief

Rap in as per Bellbird Wall, using the belay on the right at the main ledge and you will be rapping down the line. Climb back up it on gear and belay on big gear if you want, or just use the rings. Might be able to continue to the top on trad too?? We'll see . . .

FA: Unknown

Trad Project
7 *** Bellbird Wall

Park at 'Pulpit' Rock carpark and walk down towards 'Pulpit' Rock. Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Follow the evident trail trending right for about 60m leading to the ridge line. At this point turn L and look for a single RB. Hook in here with your safety line and set up your 2 x 60's off the 2RB's around the corner. Rap down passing FH's and RB's to the ledge with 2 x RB's. Set up your ropes off the 2 x RB's to the left of these RB's and rap to the base. Facing the cliff walk 20m right taking care and up to the tree in the corner where the route starts. Note, there is more than one rap access to this area, check topo. Take 16 draws, and a couple for the anchors.

Start: Marked in red on topo

  1. 45m (16) Up the wall left of the corner on a little rib, staying right of dead tree. Diagonally left across slabby wall with one thin section. 16 rings to 2RB belay on the RHS of the big ledge.

  2. 40m (17) Move belay 5m to the left. Head up and left to ledge. Head up though exciting bulge and onto slab. Up to traverse then pull up onto face. Climb to crack and up to belay station.

  3. 15m (15) The Champagne pitch! Start up 3D chimney with holds everywhere. Shuffle thru this, past 2 bolts and launch out, around and up to exciting headwall overlooking the spectacular Grose Valley below.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Vanessa Peterson, Veronica Trainor, Althea Arguelles-Ling , Chris Ling, Mike Law, 2009

18 Sport 100m 3, 16
8 *** Stone Poem

2 beautiful arêtes separated by a short punchy haiku. The wall faces north east and is well protected on winter mornings, and gets afternoon shade in summer. Take 15 draws.

Rap 30m to a stance 10m below the ledge, then either 20m to belay#3 (hanging) or 30 to belay#2 (good ledge but leave slings to pull ropes). Rap 40m and left slightly to hanging stance at a small ledge on lip of choss. On all raps you must bounce be able to reach anchors. Take prussics. If you're not cruising 27 arêtes, you might leave a rope or 2 fixed.

  1. 40m (25) 40m Up wall and left to arete and up to cave (The Master's Ledge)

  2. 8m (26) Around bulge to hanging belay (The waiting Room)

  3. 35m (27) Out left over the sucking void (past a possible 2 ring belay for those who have bitten off more than they can masticate) and up the arete to ledge.

  4. 20m (20) Over bulge and up

FA: Adrian Laing, Mike Law

27 Sport 100m 4
9 ** Under the Influence

A fantastic mixed route on the lower cliff. Perfect finger crack with great (natural) pro, then bolt protected face and exposed arête climbing. One long pitch (take 15 draws plus gear) or use midway double-bolt belay to split pitches.

From the base of the Bellbird Wall double rap, walk left (facing in) around the alcove on loose, dusty ground, hugging the cliff (caution - slack belay off the big tree near rap-touchdown recommended. From the end of the alcove the cliff-top heads out perpendicular to the main Bellbird wall. Traverse around the slope while dropping slightly, to where the cliff-top swings back parallel to the main upper cliff. At the top of an obvious blocky gully (only 50m or less from the alcove) downclimb or rap (25-30m?) from double U-bolts, down gully past a few bolts (used as runners for the exit scramble) to a flat block on the cliff edge proper. Rap again (double U-bolts) to climber’s right of small tree (2 ropes, or single fixed is better - about 35m?) to start of route on the short flat-topped pinnacle next to a tree fern.

Pitch 1 (20): (single 0.3-0.75 Camalots; 5 bolts to semi hanging DBB). Finger crack with small cams, then bolts on rising traverse up and left to blunt arête (double bolt belay). Semi-hanging belay or continue.

Pitch 2 (21): (9 bolts to DBB). Thin and delicate climbing on, and just left of, the arête. Stay left of small tree on final short block).

After bringing up your second you can scramble/climb back up the blocky rap gully. There are 4 optional bolt runners to the rap anchors, if staying roped up, but take care – they will only help you so much on this low-angled terrain. Then up to alcove on half-way ledge and around to base of Bellbird wall and top-out routes.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

21 Mixed 45m 2, 18

1.15. Perry's Lookdown 19 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.346103, -33.598714

Description:© (Macciza)

Areas with some big time air and big time sun. This crag gets sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. In summer, it goes into the shade at 3pm.

Approach:© (Macciza)

End of Hat Hill Rd. From the carpark/campground, head L and find a track through the scrub, follow this for 100m to a short descent gully. A 10m fixed rope on the far (west) side shows the easy way down. Once in the gully, head L (west) for about 50m to find the Date With Density fixed ropes, or move to the R (east) side of the gully then straight downhill for 30m to find Red Edge and Parched. When approaching Red Edge, you will see the Parched Wall abseil anchor first - big shiny DUBs on a ledge to your left (easily approached but take care). The Red Edge anchors are harder to find, but from the Parched DUB they are only about 10m R (east). Refer to the topo photos below for more details. The Parched anchors can only be used to reach the ground if you have at least one very long rope - there are NO anchors within 120m or so of the ground. (A single 180m rope reaches all the way from the top to the bottom). This probably means that the main Red Edge abseil (which starts about 15m lower than the Parched abseil) is about 165m (rather than 200m as written in previous guides). However this has not yet been tested so make sure you have plenty of rope either way!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Forgotten Corner (Project)

Corner to left of 'I Forget'

FA: Project Mac, 2000

2 I Forget

Up slab left of Red Edges final pitch

May need gear at end or rebolt.

Start: Do first rap for 'Red Edge' and you can't miss it.

FA: Mac N Zac, 2005

23 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Red Edge

Awesome! Rap in & you just gotta climb out. Rap 200m down the SE side (left side, facing in) of the arête. Look for the "black tree" (its a casuarina tree, shown in two photo topos here - not all the black burnt gum trees nearby ), and the DRB is 5m uphill from there. They are painted red and tricky to spot. Fix a 20m rope to these DRBs, down to the top of the main cliff. Don't solo down this bit! Once atop the main cliff, it's a massive free hanging abseil so you need a 200m rope, or multiple ropes (eg 4x50m) tied together so be ready to abseil past knots. Take a double set of cams, and brackets.

  1. 40m 23. L side of slabby grey arête. 3 carrots plus, in order, cams: #0.5, #1-1.5, #3.5, #0.5-1, #2. DBB.

  2. 40m 25 or 22M0 if you aid the start. Up the L side of the arête with 5 carrots (4th one hidden over to the right), plus cams #0.5-1, #2.5,3, #1.5,3. DBB.

  3. 30m 23. L side of arete (2 carrots) then R side (2 carrots) to orange slab (big cams). Bolt & cam belay.

  4. 25m 25, or 24M0 if you pull on the 2nd bolt. Up to 3rd bolt then photogenic traverse L to arete, and up its L side. 5 bolts to DBB.

  5. 35m 24. L side of final arête. 3 bolts, cams #1, #1.5,2, #3, #1-2. Bolt & tree belay.

  6. 20m scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.

FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999

26 Mixed 190m 6, 20
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Parched

AWESOME 'Steep', exposed.

FA: Zac & Mac, 2005

29 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 a

FA: julian

Sport 70m 4
6 * Moonlight Corner

BIG corner system visible to the west from the top of Zac's route. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin.

FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000

22 Trad 180m
7 Jark's Project

Justin Clark project awaiting an ascent when he gets fit again!

8 *** A Date with Density

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in Summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water.

Start: Walk down 100m as for 'Red Edge' and walk west 50m along under small cliff, scramble down 2nd gully, follow rope to top rap anchor.

  1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete

  2. 45m (22) Climb main corner , up corner and out right to arêtes

  3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void

  4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Bleay on left end of legde

  5. 45m (23) Right and up to rap station

FA: Ado, Mikl, 2000

25 Sport 200m 5
9 * Fat Yak

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perry's! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor with white tape. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

  2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

  3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

FA: Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith, 2009

22 Sport 100m 3
10 ** The Rap Star

A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of A Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.

Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).

FA: Neil Monteith, Vanessa Wills

24 Sport 50m, 20
11 *** The Yak bites Back

The top 2 pitches of BB, but a rad route on its own. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in as for DwD. Belay on ledge just above white sling.

  1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009

22 Sport 55m 2
12 *** Yak Banquet (The Easy Link-up)

A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22.

  1. 30m (22) First pitch of 'Beggars Banquet'. Belay off large tree then scramble up left to...

  2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to hanging belay.

  3. 10m (8) Traverse right to join into 'Fat Yak' pitch 1.

  4. 40m (22) Fat Yak pitch 1

  5. 40m (22) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 5.

  6. 15m (21) 'Beggars Banquet' pitch 6

22 Sport 170m 5
13 ** Beggars Banquet

A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch. The top two pitches are worth doing in their own right as a three star route, with simple single 50m rap access.

Start: Rap to ground via 4 x 50m raps as for Date With Density.

  1. 30m (22) Best pitch of the route! 'Steep' right facing flake to start then continuous pumpy climbing to finish on ledge with large tree belay.

  2. 15m (17) Scramble un-roped 20m up left to large ledge. Rope up again then ditty right across face to enter hand crack, and up it to ledge below corner. Belay off large tree and single ring.

  3. 20m (24) Wildly contorted. Couple of chossy moves to enter steep stemming corner, out right under roof to small ledge. Out right again and onto thin face. Up to hanging belay (same belay below P3 of DwD)

  4. 40m (24) Layaway up right leading very thin seam for 20m, then join into 'Fat Yak' P1 for 20m of easier slab past two ugly horizontals to comfy bolt belay on small ledge (the higher of the two set of anchors)

  5. 40m (22) Da pumper pitch. Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  6. 15m (21) Orange rock mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewllin

24 Sport 160m 6
14 * Never Say Never

The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between 'Slipstream' and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: Bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.

FA: Wilson, B Harington, 1999

20 Trad 110m
15 ** Never Never Land

These are good additions for "Never Say Never". A Suggestion is to do "The Circuit" If climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below "Slip Stream". Climb first 2 pitches of "Down Stream" Rap back down fixed rope, then climb "Never Never Land " walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope then climb "Never Say Never". A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.

Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete

  1. 25m (22) 25m Up arête past 3 carrots and natural pro, pul through roof then up crack to belay on small ledge at tree plus no 1 cams 2m above.

  2. 40m (20) Up crack, then continue up slabby arête past friends & 2 carrots, a no. 2 friend in slot on left of arête protects move to stance on right hand side of small roof, no.½ friend. Traverse under roof then climb left side of arête past a bolt to small ledge, easy wall to big ledge. Belay at small tree, backup with wires in 'Never Say Never'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

22 Mixed 65m 2, 5
16 ** Downstream

Start: Rap down Slip Stream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

  1. 15m (16) Up corner for 10m traverse under 4 metre roof to arête, belay on small footledge, semi hanging.

  2. 25m (16) Up corner crack belay off gum tree.

  3. 20m (16) Up crack and scree to gum you rapped off. Average pitch, better to rap down and climb 'Never Never Land'.

FA: Mark Wilson and Brendan Helmrich., 2009

16 Trad 60m 3
17 ** Slipstream

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. 5 minutes walk, 5 pitches, 5 stars. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, as follows: WARNING: This approach currently has no fixed ropes as previously mentioned. Most likely burnt in fires. But can be still done with care.

From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (maybe rope up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp for the sketchiest bits. Then setup 20m rope to hand-over-hand down thru blade grass (steep) to little flat area. Rap off the small trees at little flat area and/or use bottom end of the 20m rope.

Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start.

  1. 22m (23/24) Best to clean pockets and edges just above mini ledge if rapping in from above. Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. About 7 UBs.

  2. 33m (23) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. This pitch finishes on a long scree slope and is more like 40m if you want a big bomber tree for the belay, or 50+m if you go all the way to the bolt at the start of pitch 3. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (18 UBs) with 60m rope(s) but the tree you reach is underwhelming).

  3. 50m (23) Corner, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. Fantastic pitch, and at least a grade easier than pitch 1, and maybe even easier than pitch 2! 12 U-bolts.

  4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

  5. 30m (23) Continuing the trend that not all 23s are created equal! Blast thru fun juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and through bushes to belay at tree with fixed ropes. 5 or 6 U-bolts. Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1 & 2 added by Mikl and Ado a year or two later., 2008

23 Sport 120m 5, 44
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** This Is Your Brain on Crack / Orange Jam

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. 1) 20m The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, very hard to place on the lead. Rap off or do 2) 30m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH, marginal gear for belay. Best done in original fashion, ledge to ledge, 55m, trad only. Keep it real ....

Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

Set by Mike Law

FFA: Zac Vertrees,@macciza, 2012

FA: Monique Forrestier, 2012

26 Mixed 55m 2, 1
19 ** Walk the Chalk

Access: Probably easiest to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

  1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m. hand traverse along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

  2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling (1m) on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, Nic Sellers, 2008

27 Trad 65m 2

1.16. Anvil Rock 2 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.337114, -33.594065


A couple of shorter multi-pitch routes accessed from the same carpark at Perry's Lookdown - but located 1km further west.

Descent Notes:

Rap in - climb out.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bear Hug

Technical climbing with lots of air, followed by an easier second pitch. Abseil down (45m) to hanging rap station as for Ordinary route access. Suggest you leave the rope there for retreat. Take 10 draws.

  1. 20m (23) Lurch left off belay to flake, keep scuttling left a few moves then head diagonally up slab past funkiness on arete.

  2. 30m (20) Up delicate and sportingly bolted wall.

FA: Mikl Law, Niall Doherty (alt), 2008

23 Sport 50m 2, 15
2 ** Ordinary Route

Sportingly bolted multi-pitch sport route, but not "R" at all.

walk about 20m left from base of second rap along ledge. Take a bolt plate to movve second away from belays.

  1. 45m (22)

  2. 25m (23)

  3. 25m (24) 1 carrot near start to protect second

  4. 10m (12)

FA: Mike Law

24 R Sport 120m 4

1.17. Hanging Rock 25 routes in Crag

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.312218, -33.582902

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Craigs Effort 19 Unknown 30m
2 ** Speak of the Devil 22 Unknown 170m
3 *** Oranges Poranges 24 Unknown 45m
4 * The Black Rose

From the lookout, head left down the hill along the cliffline (towards hanging rock) until approx 10m from the end of the ridge (the first rock platform back from the end of the ridge). Fix a rope and Rap 50m from here in the direction of Pierces Pass to a ledge (rap anchor can be made from a bollard south of where you rap, and backed up with 0.5, 0.3 and #1 BD cams underneath the platform). At the western end of the ledge (towards hanging rock) is the belay for the end of P2 of The Black Rose. Rap 25m down this to a semi-hanging belay, and again 20m down the very steep 1st Pitch (clip the rope through all the bolts on the way down) to fully hanging belay 150m off the deck.

P1 20m (27) - Up using arete and right face, with bouldery thin crux from the 2nd bolt. Easier sustained climbing above to semi-hanging belay.

P2 25m (20) - Up vertical and slabby face right of the arete to belay on big ledge.

Jumaar 50m up fixed rope and top out.

27 Sport 45m
5 The Edge 19 Unknown 25m
6 Garth's Route 25 Unknown 35m
7 ** The Great Outdoors 23 Unknown 70m
8 *** Northern Exposure 23 Unknown 55m
9 * Wild Wild West 23 Unknown 45m
10 * Oranges and Lemons 20 Unknown 65m
11 ** Burramoko Buttress 19 Unknown 150m
12 Sunset Dreaming 21 Unknown 110m
13 On The Wallaby Track 18 Unknown 85m
14 Panic on Hanging Rock 18 Unknown 80m
15 Stormfront 22 Unknown 45m
16 * Shoot Your Shot 23 Unknown 25m
17 Kiss or Be Kissed 19 Unknown 60m
18 *** Hot and Hunky 23 Unknown 20m
19 Mr & Mrs Attila the Hun - Unknown
20 ** Big, Meaty Pork Chops 23 Unknown 45m
21 ** Human Cannonball 25 Unknown 45m
22 Hot Meat 27 Unknown 12m
23 Pants Packenn Mania! 21 Unknown 55m
24 Hayabusa 18 Unknown 25m
25 Tarkan Corner 17 M5 Aid 180m

1.18. Bald Head 31 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.322026, -33.586631

Unique Features And Strengths:© (PThomson)

Extremely long single-pitch sport routes in an exposed location, sport multi-pitches and long trad adventure-multipitches.

Description:© (PThomson)

The 2 main Tiger-Striped Walls at Bald Head and surrounds, which are visible (and breathtaking) from Pierces Pass.

Approach:© (PThomson)

Travelling west along the Great Western 'Highway' through Blackheath, turn right onto Hat Hill Rd. Follow this to Hat Hill to the hat hill walking track (signposted on left), park on the right and continue on foot.

Follow the well-defined Hat Hill walking trail past Hat Hill, and onwards for 35min until the track seems to come to an end at a rocky outcropping. Continue down the steep saddle in front (there is a vague trail, and a number of cairns).

If climbing "Serendipitous Cracks", "Beche de Merl" or "Figgit", break trail here and head right (East) down into the obvious steep descent gully (refer to access details for Bald Head Long Routes for more info about this approach). It takes 45min walk at a reasonable pace to reach this point.

Continue back up the other side of the Saddle until you reach Bald Head. (Refer to access details for Bald Head Sector 1/Sector 2 for more info about the approach to the specific areas). It takes 50min walk at a reasonable pace to reach this point.

1.18.1. Bald Head - Sector 1 11 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.322130, -33.586362


The main Tiger-Striped wall, featuring many long routes around 50m in length.


From Bald Head, follow the vague footpad along the ridgeline roughly in the direction of Rigby Hill (Pierces Pass) until almost at the end of the ridge. Look for a cairn on the left, at which point break trail and head directly down the slope towards the cliff edge. The rap anchors for "Another Kojak Moment", "The Opportunistic Pathogen" and "The Dimerisation Interface" are on the right-hand side at the end of a slot between two rocky outcroppings. The next set of rap anchors are on a flat rock about 50m left (looking out).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Another Kojak Moment 22 Sport 45m
2 The Opportunistic Pathogen 22 Sport 48m
3 ** The Dimerisation Interface 22 Sport 52m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** A Pill for your Vain Pain 24 Sport 50m
5 ** Rocket Girl 23 Sport 50m
6 ** Weaponhead 25 Sport 48m
7 ** Just Don't Smoke 26 Unknown 42m
8 *** Chemotherapy 26 Sport 45m
9 ** Lunge Cancer 24 Sport 45m
10 Open Project project Unknown
11 ** Baldilicious 19 Sport 25m

1.18.2. Bald Head - Sector 2 4 routes in Sector

Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.320317, -33.587503


A smaller, shorter and less aesthetic wall featuring the original Bald Head route "Thinning On Top" and the wildly exposed "Advanced Air Studio".


From Bald Head, walk along the ridge leading in the direction of hanging rock, and continue downhill towards a prominent gully with a waterfall flowing into the Grose. Sector 2 is the last major wall and arete before the major gully.

All rap anchors and belays are on carrot bolts. Routes are equipped as specified.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project (Pat) project Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Thinning on Top 24 Unknown 35m
3 ** Comb Over 21 Sport 35m
4 *** Advanced Air Studio

The wildly exposed arete at the right hand end of the wall. Well-protected, sustained face climbing just left of the arete proper, with average quality rock.

Originally graded 19, but may have gotten harder as holds snapped off and/or due to grade inflation.

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2001

20 Sport 35m

1.18.3. Serendipitous Walls 9 routes in Area

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.324052, -33.585919

Unique Features And Strengths:

Long sport climbing pitches in an adventurous location, with an abundance of pockets.


The lower walls beneath Weld Party , surrounding first two pitches of Serendipitous Cracks.


Approach as for Bald Head until in saddle (30min). At saddles lowest point just before walking uphill break track north at a few cairns and pick up faint trail and markers contouring under rockshelves staying high-left of gully. This faint trail gradually descends and after 10 minutes passes above prominent isolated boulder and in another 150 meters you will see the valleys edge and Peirces Pass across the other side. Head down and left a few meters beside small wall where fixed lines are placed for 20 meters to aid a loose section of track. Consider harnessing up and clipping them. This enables walking access to the base of Weld Party on a large ledge and the rap point for the routes described in this section , and avoids the loose creek-bed approach that was used to access Serendipitous Cracks. It takes 45 min from car though if its your first time allow 1-1.5hr to pour over this complicated description. Although you will walk past the top of a few routes , owing to loose rock and steep approach none are suitable for abseil access and it is advised to walk to the very end of this large ledge for the very comfortable abseil down Serendipitous Arette. Please refrain from touching any gear on this ledge as a few routes are yet to be developed. There is a rap point beneath the multi pitch 'Weld Party' (described in long routes section). From base of Weld Party carefully make your way across to left side of lower wall (looking out). A few meters before cliff edge there is a small step down ledge on left, take this to find DUB rap point. This is the top of Serendipitous Arette. It is 55 meters to the ground or rethread at DUB half way.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Red Bellied Black (project)

Long sport route snaking its way up fine looking orange wall 100m left of Purkinje Arette. Will possibly get a lower anchor as first 30m is around grade 22 Closed Project.

Set by @evanwells, 29th Mar

Sport Project 45m
2 This Coming Fall (closed project)

Steep super long mega-pitch on red overhanging face and arette. 1 FH then rings and U's. This is a closed project.

Set by E.Wells, 27th Feb

Sport Project 50m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Purkinje Arette

After rapping down Serendipitous Arette (55m) walk east past that wall and down another 50 meters to line of fixed hangers leading to prominent arette. Pitch 1. - 40m , Grade 20. Heave ho up through laybacks, fistjams and meaty underclings onto long arching line , leaving the potential for the direct trad line if anyone dared clean it. No long draws required but you need 17. Double U bolt anchor on ledge. Pitch 2 - 35m , Grade 21. Fantastic position. Up corner for a move then out and up. Some technical arette climbing interspersed with good rests. 16 or 17 bolts. Belay from obvious Casuarina Tree backed up with U-bolt closer to edge.

FFA: Evan Wells , Marty Doolan, 29th Feb

21 Sport 75m 2, 34
4 * Keenes Hobble

The only easy way to the top. Requires bolt plates. From main wall walk down towards P.A and scramble 2mtrs up first slot with the aid of a tree route to a ledge with one B.R. Belay first pitc.h here.

This route is equipt with glue-in stainless machine bolts and requires 14 bolt-plates.

Pitch 1 - 15mtrs , Grade 2. Walk up loose gully passing bolt , clip next bolt to keep rope high (ignore bolts above , they access trad line undocumented) then walk left 5mtrs, then up past bolt and left some more to large ledge and single U-Bolt belay. Almost hiking.

Pitch 2 - 25mtrs , Grade 17. Straight up face and into a ferny crux section to a 3BB.

Pitch 3 - 25mtrs , Grade 17. Up. One belay bolt is 2m behind the first you will see. The Belay ledge at top is nice but take great care getting up to track as hill is deceptively loose.

FFA: Evan Wells,@fatbastard, 1st Mar

17 Sport 65m 3, 30
5 ** Thickening Agent

Start 5m right of Serendipitous Cracks at small cairn, fantastic climbing on soft features , through small overlap. A rope stretcher but a 60m will just get you to the ground.

FFA: @evanwells, 2016

22 Sport 32m, 14
6 *** Four Seasons

Epic long sport climb. Named after the many and varied weather patterns that passed during second ascent efforts. Grunt your way through a steep start with a long span left from a pocket earning its grade then ooze up forever to a spectacular finale up hanging prow to lower-offs. 20 quickdraws!! An 80 meter rope gets you to the ground with stretch if you let the end pop through device otherwise rethread.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2016

25 Sport 45m, 20
7 *** Pocket Rock It

Another stunning climb , was to be named "The Lithgow Grip" but the hold is not necessary. see if you can find it! Starts at large U-bolt and heads straight up.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2016

23 Sport 32m, 14
8 *** The Breakdancing Bee

Climb to large first bolt of pocket rockit , head further right to next , then unclip first. shuffle a double kneebar through average rock then straight into the business. Nothing too hard for grade, just a few long moves here and there. A 60 meter rope easily gets you to the ground. Would benefit from an extension to the top. It is possible to link into top few meters of Serendipitous Arette P.1 thus avoiding crux's on both climbs and giving access to easy P.2 as means of topping out.

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: @evanwells, 19th Mar

24 Sport 30m, 14
9 *** Serendipitous Arette

Pitch 1. 25m gr.26 Steep arette. This pitch is excellent , Stick clip first bolt , jug on up to brilliant crux section and veer left to maintain qaulity climbing and gain comfortable belay/lower off. Pitch 2. 25m gr.17 Heave Ho left then long line on ironstone to top. (Rap Point) First pitch may lose a grade with chalk and draws on? Unexpected first shot at end of long day.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2016

26 Sport 55m 2, 14

1.18.4. Bald Head - Long Routes 5 routes in Sector

Trad, Sport and Unknown

The long, adventurous, Traddy routes that ascend the entire walls of Bald Head. Bring gear and testicular fortitude. At least another 20min travel time from where you break trail.


After breaking trail in the saddle before arriving at Bald Head, and heading right into the Eastern Gully, you will eventually reach a (mostly) dry creek bed. Follow the creek steeply down the gully, with one 25m abseil required (and others possible). Traverse around the base of the cliff when the scree makes doing so possible, and continue along until you come across the first obvious crack seen when the entire wall is in view. This is "Serendipitous Cracks". Continue along the base of the cliff to the other climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Serendipitous Cracks

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

  1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

  2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

  3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

  4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

  5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Craig Hale, 2000

18 R Trad 210m 5
2 Serendipitous Cracks direct finish

Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break. With the last pitch of Weld Party 10 meters to right this may be more popular.....or less.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

20 Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next route (Weld Party) WAS approached as per standard Bald Head sectors walk in , not the gully described above however it is now possible to walk to base. Break trail right at lowest point of saddle , staying left of gully on vague trail. (D3scription as for Serendipitous walls approach) Its base is the large ledge above first two pitches of serendipitous cracks.

3 *** Weld Party

A fantastic mid grade multi , fully equipped with ringbolts and U'sas a sport climb. Bring a Sixty meter rope as minimum for abseils and 16 standard sport quickdraws plus what ever your usual multi harness requires. There is also potential to link pitches (if you could be bothered bringing that many draws) as it is a drag free wall. Wall gets sun in summer at 11:30 and earlier as winter sets in. Approach is now possible on foot as for Serendipitous Walls sector. Its the obvious route above you as you approach rap point for serendipitous walls. Can be combined with lower cliff for convenient multi pitch. At top of climb walk up to higher terrace then right under small clifflet then back left up to Bald Head along vague trail to saddle. . Should be 45min from car to Rap Anchor.

Pitch 1: Grade 18 , 30mtrs. Pitch 2: Grade 18 , 20mtrs Pitch 3: Grade 19 , 30mtrs

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Evan Wells , Jessica Tam, 2015

19 Sport 80m 3, 45
4 ** Beche de Merl 19 Unknown 200m
5 Figgetit

Starts several hundred metres right of 'Serendipitous Cracks', and about 100m left of the Hat Hill Creek waterfall. The climb is the small left facing corner crack in the middle of the steep yellow wall of sand, and is distinguished by two gnarled fig trees at the base of the corner.

  1. 48m 18 Follow the horribly loose and chossy corner until you eventually reach a ledge liberally covered in large loose blocks and sand dunes. Calm down from the ascent then organise a retreat, using the dead, rotten tree, and a large slung flake that looks disturbingly loose.

Further pitches may be possible, but the territory looks steep and uncompromising, and the "rock" looks like it gets worse before getting better. Make sure you take double ropes if you intend to retreat (it's a full 50m rap).

FA: Andrew Duckworth, Peter Monks, 2001

18 Trad 48m

1.18.5. Fossil Head 2 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.330933, -33.588832

Unique Features And Strengths:

A really nice bushwalk , maybe bring a rope and alot of quickdraws too.


When viewed from Pierces Pass , this slice of steep looking rock across the valley looks promising. Close inspection reveals an impressive wall though a combination of ledges , caves and poor rock make further routes an unappealing prospect. There are two long well bolted sport routes here courtesy of Giles Bradbury and Martin Pircher , both taking the one section of wall without ledges. Author has not climbed either one but possibly up to 20 quickdraws required if they are indeed 50m routes as is written up. All ringbolts.


The best resource is now the google map as now the crag location has been shifted 2klm to where the crag actually is. From the on top of rockshelf above saddle on way to Bald Head , walk through bush on right at same level. Potter along the flat open ground then stumble over large cairn at small clifflet. This is a spectacular lookout. Beneath this is a spur. Walk down it and before it ends on a pagoda like knob , veer right. This takes you down to the large ledge that the crag is level with. Walk right under good looking steep wall and on and on until you are under the cliff. There is a more direct gully that brings you closer to the cliff though the directions would be vaguer than these. Good luck.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** G-Rex 23 Sport 50m
2 ** Petrified 24 Sport 50m

1.19. Mt Boyce 191 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.263944, -33.610413

1.19.1. Boycetown 10 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.262061, -33.604128

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Yumster

First route after the abseil. Overhanging corner.

FA: L.Wishart, 2003

26 Sport 25m
2 ** Beastie Boyce

Overhanhing arete.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

26 Sport 30m
3 *** Boisterous

Right of the arete. Shared start with Y & BBB. One of the best 23's around.

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

23 Sport 25m
4 * Big Boyce Blouse

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

26 Sport 30m
5 Project (Giles) project Unknown
6 * Fartflusher

Batman start.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

24 Sport 35m
7 Project

FA: Giles/Lloyd, 2000

8 ** Rolls Boyce

this and the next route are about 30m to the right.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

25 Sport 37m
9 ** Little Boyce Room

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

25 Sport 26m
10 ** La Nina

The really good looking clean crack at the far right hand end above the rope access.

FFA: G Bradbury, T Betherton, 1989

22 Trad 50m

1.19.2. Browntown 12 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262227, -33.605433

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blinded by the Light

The routes in this area are listed right to left as you come to them.

FA: M.Paynes, 1999

19 Sport 8m
2 Cheeky Thing

First bolt removed pending rebolt.. Doubt this will ever happen.

FA: B.Laursen, 1999

22 X Sport 8m
3 * Xanthorrhoea Australis

FA: I.Geatches, 1999

22 Sport 15m
4 The Big Lebowski

Start: This and the next 2 routes share a common start.

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

24 Sport 15m
5 ** Mattie Potatie

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

27 Sport 15m
6 * You Can Float

FA: I.Geatches, 2002

28 Sport 25m
7 * Pre-Millenium Tension

FA: mark payens

23 Sport 25m
8 * Big in Japan

FA: Mark Payens

23 Sport 25m
9 Project (Mark) project Unknown
10 Sorcerers Apprentice

Lower off single bolt!

FA: J.Dodson, 1999

19 Sport 20m
11 Too Soft

FA: J.Dodson, 2000

21 Sport 20m
12 Sorcerer

FA: Ian Geatches

24 Unknown 25m

1.19.3. Absquealers 5 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.264750, -33.607446

Description:© (wombly)

The walls surrounding the gully below the abseilers training area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Life of Your Time

On dark orange face halfway down abseilers' track where it touches right side of gully.

FA: Niall Doherty, George Muraoka, 2010

21 Sport 20m, 9
2 Almost Famous

First pitch trad, second pitch rings and carrots.

FA: D.White, D.Tweedie

20 Mixed 45m 2, 6
3 Curveball

Mostly trad with four ring bolts.

FA: Vince Day, Hugh Sutton

26 Trad 55m
4 ** Penny Arcade

3 pitches, fully bolted.

Start: Follow abseilers track down the gully, past the big cave. Continue around on L hand side of gully (facing out) to the implement straight out of mad max

FA: Niall Doherty, Roger Bourne, 2007

20 Sport 54m
5 ** Penny Arcade P's 2 and 3 only

FA: Niall Doherty, Roger Bourne, 2007

18 Unknown 36m

1.19.4. Upper Wall 13 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.265790, -33.610459

Description:© (mjw)

Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Side Stepper

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Set by B Jung

FA: A Cummings, 2014

17 Sport 12m
2 Monica's Gate

Very thin crux but good feet, make them work.

FA: G.Trutnovsky,M.Pircher, 1998

24 Sport 12m
3 Vambrace

Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a muggy top.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 2000

21 Sport 15m
4 Watergate

Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing.

FA: P.Stebbins,A.Drennen,B.Pearse, 1982

23 Sport 15m
5 Reaganomics

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

24 Sport 13m
6 * A Bird in the Bush

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

25 Sport 12m
7 mailorder meercat

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012

27 Sport 15m
8 * Six-draw Tallboy

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

FA: N.Baker, 2002

27 Sport 10m
9 ** Beaten, Bullied & Buggered

Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

FA: G.Child,J.Smoothy, 1989

26 Sport 15m, 8
10 * Leprosy

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

FA: V.Day, 2005

31 Sport 15m
11 fury

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

FA: vince day, 2004

33 Sport 15m
12 Project

FA: Open, 2000

project Sport
13 * Mr. September

Far left hand route.

FA: N.Sutter, 1997

28 Sport 8m

1.19.5. Abseil Gully 18 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.265193, -33.610378


Generally, this area gets morning shade and arvo sun. More specifically: the Eyrie Wall gets sun from about 11am; Afghan Wall stays shady until about 1pm and the Girl in the Mirror Wall is shady until noon.


Drive N along Station St from Blackheath for about 2km until you get to the signposted "Parking Area No. 2". Park here (having a bit of clearance helps to get into the carpark). Walk downhill on an obvious track for 5 minutes. The sport crag found on your R is Vambrace Wall. Walk another 50m down from here and you're at the top of Abseil Gully.

Descent Notes:

This is a rap-in and climb-out crag. Best idea is to bring a dedicated abseil rope to fix in place all day. A short rope (25m) is enough for the Abseil Gully abseil, but if you leave a rope here you need to get used to the idea that it will almost certainly get used by everyone else at the crag. If you plan to climb mostly on Afghan Wall or Mean Streak Wall then it's most convenient to fix a 50m abseil rope down your chosen wall. That way you don't have a long barefoot scramble and don't have to carry walking shoes up every climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scruffocide

35m left of 'Abseil Slab'.

Start: Slab.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

17 Trad 18m
2 Aceldama

Start: 20 left of AS.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

17 Trad 15m
3 Abseil Slab

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley, 1967

7 Trad 34m
4 Frank and Joe

Start: 3m right of AS.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1984

19 Trad 17m
5 Abseil Arete

Start: Aret right of F&J.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley, 1967

8 Mixed 30m, 6
6 Abseil Corner

Originally done in 3 pitches.

FA: G.Owens,B.Smith,J.Millar, 1967

11 Trad 34m
7 Eagle Wall

Start: Wall right of AC.

FA: B.Postill,G.Wurth, 1969

15 R Trad 40m
8 *** The Eyrie

Start: Left extremity of the black slab ,right of 'Abseil Gully'.

  1. 30m (12) Slab to cave. Chain belay.

  2. 12m (10) Cave to top.

FA: J Worral, H Ward

12 Mixed 50m 2, 5
9 * Loitering With Intent


Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

  1. 25m (-)

  2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

  3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

  4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1985

14 Trad 130m 4
10 ** Another Man's Juliet

Start: 1m right of E.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1984

16 Trad 48m
11 ** Set, Piece, Battle

Start: 2m right of AMJ.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland,J.Smoothy, 1985

14 Trad 50m
12 Bonnie Scotland

Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'.

FA: M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley,G.Owens, 1967

13 Trad 53m
13 This Ain't Gardening

Possibly never repeated.

Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof.

FA: R.Young,M.Portman, 1994

22 Trad 45m
14 Old England

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

  1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to secnd lip.

  2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

FA: M.Clarbourgh,G.Owens, 1967

12 Trad 55m 2
15 * Sweet Irish

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

  1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge.

  2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to top.

FA: L.Smith,B.Postill, 1967

10 Trad 49m 2
16 * Tongan Corner

Start: 3m right of SI.

  1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

  2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson,L.Muzzatti, 1967

8 Trad 60m 2
17 Atlantis

Start: 'Arete' 2m right.

  1. 24m (-) 'Arete' to belay 3m left on block.

  2. 36m (13) Onto arete, then up right side on steep wall. Back to arete, through overhang to top.

FA: B.Postill,B.Crouch, 1969

13 Trad 60m 2
18 * Navel Excavator

15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed.

Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings.

FA: Smoothy, Bourne, 2005

20 Sport 15m

1.19.6. Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall 25 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.264894, -33.610946

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sweet Seduction in a Magazine / Unknown route left of Afghan Wall on a million brackets

The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

FA: unknown

16 Sport 50m, 14
2 * Endless Pleasure in a Limousine

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

FA: G Oliver, J Corkins

16 Sport 47m, 99
3 Afghan Wall

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

  1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

  2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

FA: P.Jenkins,R.Lassman, 1967

14 R Mixed 63m 2, 4
4 Afghan Wall (Variant) 13 Unknown 65m
5 * Weapons of Mass Deception

4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

20 Mixed 45m, 8
6 ** Compassion Overboard

3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

20 Mixed 45m, 8
7 Kabul Offensive

Start: 5m right again.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1984

18 Trad 50m
8 Khyber Pass

Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner.

FA: A.Penney,D.Magro, 1985

17 Trad 48m
9 Canadian Corner

Start: The corner. 2 pitches.

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson,L.Muzzatti, 1967

9 Trad 58m
10 Aussie Apricot


Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

FA: P.Webber,M.Moore, 1979

14 R Trad 110m
11 Russian Roulette

Start: As for AA to top of pedestal then to top.

FA: McMahon,Stallery, 1977

15 R Trad 40m
12 Caconofix

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

FA: G Short, W Williams

19 Sport 50m
13 * Querilous Journey

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

21 Trad 50m
14 Flaws in the Glass

Start: 3m right of CC. Bouldery start.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

22 Trad 50m
15 *** The Girl in the Mirror

Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 carrots to DBB. Highball boulder problem to the first bolt, stick clip if not up to it! Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1984

22 Mixed 45m 2, 5
16 *** Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup

Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak. It can easily be linked into a single pitch but this is not wise as the second will hit the ground if they fall off the crux. Mostly bolts but a few medium cams and wires come in handy.

22 Mixed 45m 2, 11
17 * The End of the Affair

The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams.

Start: As for FH.

FA: G.Child,A.Prehn,J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Trad 50m
18 ** Mean Streak

Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic.

Start: Start 10m right of GitM.

  1. 25m (20) Lots of rambling, rolling and mantling. Not classic but is apparently worth doing. Trad and carrots.

  2. 25m (21) Up black streak. Mostly bolts but there's an optional small cam down low, plus a medium cam and wire up high to avoid an 8m runout to the final carrot.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

21 Mixed 50m 2, 10
19 ** Fille de Joie

Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Child, 1989

24 Trad 56m
20 Free Hungary

Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.

  1. 27m (-) Up right to ledge on left of pedestal below arete.

  2. 14m (19) Up right 3m and up below semi-circular overhang. Left to cave then up to belay.

  3. 18m (-) Left then up and out.

FA: J.Worrall,R.Lassman, 1967

19 Trad 60m 3
21 Schisenhousen

Start: 9m right of FH.

  1. 9m (10) face to ledge.

  2. 24m (10) Wall & corner, right to ledge. Up tending right to stance.

  3. 35m (10) Up right to top.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh, 1967

10 Trad 68m 3
22 Exit The Dragon

Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.

  1. 40m (13) Take the line. 6m left at top. Then slab to tree belay?

  2. 15m (13) Left and up.

FA: J.Croker, 1974

13 R Trad 55m 2
23 The Grasper

Start: V groove with chockstone.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Fantini, 2000

16 Trad 43m
24 The Groper

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

  1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

  2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

  3. 18m (14) Crack.

FA: W.Williams,R.Vining, 2000

14 M4 Aid 70m 3
25 The Grunter

Start: 9m right again.

FA: B.Postill,P.Edwards, 1972

M5 Aid 58m

1.19.7. One of the Best Area 10 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.264700, -33.612337

Description:© (secretary)

A stunning area with some very high quality routes and rock. Blue Mountains climbing at its best.

The Topo is referenced to the Pircher/Carter Blue Mountains climbing guide. Descriptions and Topo from Roger Bourne.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Master's Eggs

Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.

Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.

  1. 25m (23) Thin traverse left to the arete then ecstatically up. The rounded arete leads to some beautifully polished scoops. Pull past these and make some thin moves to gain the flake above. Go straight up (bolt added Jan 07). Rap off double rings.

  2. 28m (23) Traverse the holdless footledge then try to find the holds on the slab above. Up the arete and up the bulge past the eggs.

  3. 15m (20) Through the bulge to anchors at the top of the cliff. You can also rap in this way.

FA: R Bourne, C Frost

23 Sport 25m 3
2 Femalis

This and the next 2 routes are from the good old days.

Start: Chimney left of Haggis (probably between Master's Eggs and One of the Best).

  1. 27m (9) Scrub to chimney.

  2. 30m (9) Ramps to back of chimney, traverse left, chockstone, then up through hole in roof.

  3. 12m (9) 'Small' slab.

FA: G.Owens,L.Muzzatti,F.Bell, 1967

9 Trad 69m 3
3 ** One of the Best

An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.

Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.

  1. 26m (26) Up easy stuff and left under roof, up flake and through bulge to belay.

  2. 30m (25) Right to thin crack, up it, then right to arete and up.

FA: Giles Bradbury and John Smoothy., 1990

26 Sport 56m 2
4 ** Plastic Sturgeon

Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread

Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.

  1. 25m (24) Follow the dots... to a double bolt belay.

  2. 25m (24) Towards the top of the second pitch think about the name of the climb and grope around for a "hold" in a place you wouldnt expect to find one.

FA: A Duckwoth, M Pircher, 2002

24 Sport 50m 2
5 Irk-Err-Drab

Crack to piton (god knows what condition it is in)! then crack.

Start: Approx. 30m right of F. This makes it the vegetated corner between Plastic Sturgeon and Cats in the Cradle.

FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1969

13 R Trad 60m
6 ** Cat's in the Cradle

This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and 'Jugantor'.

Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.

  1. 20m (17) Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay.

  2. 25m (19) Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. 'Trust' your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay on good stance.

  3. 8m (16) Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly, 2006

19 Sport 53m 3
7 *** Jugantor

"An excellent route" (Kyle D.)

Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.

  1. 20m (23) Pull up onto into the groove and traverse bizzarely left 10m then up wall. Falling seconds may be lost in space so consider bringing prussics.

  2. 15m (23) Head on up the perfect grey rock.

  3. 30m (24) A Wee bit tricky getting up the slab and then down across it. Don't wear slippers !. 'Steep' jugging follows. Belay on rings on a ledge about 2m below the top.

FA: R. Bourne, 2003

24 Sport 65m 3
8 ** Licking Holes Creek

Another classic in this area.

Start: Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.

  1. 15m (23) All sorts of technical balancing required to get to and past first bolt.

  2. 20m (24) Awkward move up and onto flake, then start traversing left and across the beautiful orangeness. Easily left. Use left one two rings on steep grey wall above.

  3. 25m (20) Climb the beautiful corner, and or the arete. Go right at the roof.

FA: R Bourne, A Duckworth

FA: R. Bourne, 2003

24 Sport 60m 3
9 ** Lap Lap Land

An alternative finish to 'Licking Holes Creek'. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction.

Start: Start as for first two pitches of LHC.

FA: R Bourne, G Bradbury, 2003

22 Sport 35m
10 Haggis

Not too bad but pro is sparse.

Start: ? At the "H" at the bottom of 'Licking Holes Creek'.

FA: P.Jenkins,R.Lassman, 1967

9 Trad 49m

1.19.8. Spoilt Brats Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.264575, -33.613618

Description:© (secretary)

One of the best pieces of (climbable) rock around. An all day suntrap in winter, shady until 11:30 AM in summer.

Approach:© (secretary)

The glorious wall at the bottom of solo gully, but best approached from Walkdown Gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Shades of Grey

The leftmost bolted route on 'Spoilt Brats Wall'. Stick clip the first bolt, the first hold is creaky. Trend left on overhung territory past 3 bolts then tech your way up the vertical face.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2002

21 Sport 30m
2 *** Ritalin

An absolute gem. As for SoG to it's 4th bolt (backclean or extend it), step right, then straight up technical face into a steeper finish, all on great rock. DRB lower-off.

FA: S.Bell, 2003

24 Sport 30m
3 * Cirrus Maximus

Start as for SoG past it's first bolt then trend R through the low bulge to a notoriously tough mantel. The remainder is said to be (and looks) fantastic.

FA: F.Yule, 2001

24 Sport 30m
4 Project (Frey) project Unknown
5 ** Sisters of Mercy

Gain the ledge a few metres left of Spoilt Brats' 1st belay, either from Spoilt Brats, or by unprotected bridging for 8m up between the blank wall and tree. Follow the old carrots (& cams?) up the face a few metres left of Spoilt Brats, then step R on the ledge to Spoilt Brats' 2nd belay (DRB, 30m rap). Sadly you need to aid on the 2nd carrot to pass a blank section, and the 30yo bolts are uninspiring, but otherwise this route looks great.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1987

23 M1 Trad 30m
6 *** Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks

One of the best routes at this grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Tackles the disconnected flake system up the centre of this awesome wall. It's ok to lead from the ground to the top of pitch 2 and lower off, if you're careful about extending gear and have a 60m+ rope.

  1. 12m 15. Just access. Bridge small tree to ledge, then short corner (small cams, wires). Traverse 4-5m L to double ring belay 8m off the ground.

  2. 25m 21. Follow the stellar flakes. One or 2 med cams up the initial flake, otherwise all ringbolts. Step left on the ledge to a DRB anchor (evidently positioned as a multipitch belay, but a bit awkward to lower off). Most people lower/rap off from here without continuing.

  3. 10m 18?. Rarely done. The steep little headwall, might still have 1 rusty old carrot somewhere if it hasn't fallen out. Top out, walk off.

FFA: john smoothy mike law, 1984

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney, 1984

21 Sport 57m
7 * Sleepwalk for the Last Time

This original version is mainly characterised by being a half-height traverse of the wall from Spoilt Brats left to the arête.

  1. 12m 15. As for Spoilt Brats.

  2. 45m 22M0. Follow Spoilt Brats pitch 2 up the initial flake, left across the face, and a couple of metres up the second flake (to where there used to be a piton). From here the 1996 description says "traverse L (#1.5Fr) & up (BR) to big #Fr break. L past #2Fr slot and up (big #Frs). Further L to arête and step down to stance and small/med #Fr". Presumably the BR is on Sisters of Mercy, and you can probably clip ringbolts as you cross the more recent sport routes. Sounds like the belay stance is around halfway up Shades of Grey or a bit left. The M0 indicates the leader sat on gear somewhere too.

  3. 15m. Jugs up arete to the Smallpox ledge. Walk off L, or rap 30m now that there are anchors. The 1990s guide says the FA was by Martin & Peisker in 1984, but the 2000s Carter guides describe a lower easier version done by Martin & Smoothy 1990s (separately recorded here as "Sleepwalk for the Low Time").

FA: C Martin, C Peisker, 1984

22 M0 Mixed 72m 3, 5
8 * Sleepwalk for the Low Time

Listed as "Sleepwalk for the Last Time" in the 2000s Carter guides, but that route was done 10 years earlier, is 5 grades harder, and it's traverse is 10-15m higher. Now listed separately as they sound like very different routes.

  1. 12m 15. As for Spoilt Brats.

  2. 20m 17. Traverse left along ledges, past ringbolts & cams, to the base of the arête/slab. Trad belay.

  3. 15m Up the slab (trad). Walk off L, or rap off (30m).

FFA: C Martin, J Smoothy, 1995

17 Trad 50m 3
9 ** Infant Terror

The next 2 routes share a start with SBaGA. After leaving Spoiled Brats a hard traverse on good but spaced holds lead right to the first belay, continue up and back left to another tricky move right at the top of the wall.

FA: A.Duckworth,P.Quach, 2002

23 Sport 45m
10 * Minor Threat

According to Roger Bourne's website, but not mentioned in the guidebooks, this is accessed by abseil. Which is consistent with it being 20m long. And also would explain why those approaching from the ground via Infant Terror find it hard for 20.

FA: S.Bell,H.Hooper, 2002

20 Sport 20m

1.19.9. Smallpox 7 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.264695, -33.613810

Description:© (secretary)

Short and steep and perched on the edge of a much bigger cliff. A good place for winter 'training' since it can be protected from the wind, and gets the sun during the day.

Approach:© (secretary)

This area is on the upper cliffline above the left side of the Spoilt Brats wall. The most reliable way to find it is to walk in the same as for Walkdown Gully, until you are at the clifftop. Now follow a pretty good clifftop trail around to the R (N then E) for about 150m to Solo Gully, skirt round the back of this and continue along above the cliff (the trail less well defined here). You pass along the top of the crag, descend some easy rock shelves at the E end, then come back W along the base. Nothing too sketchy on the approach but take care while hanging out at the base of the routes as there is a 30m drop only a few metres away. An alternative approach is to leave the track about 200m before Walkdown Gully and head due north, this way is shorter ... if you don't get lost.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hey! Big Sender!

Left hand route.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23 Sport 12m
2 * The Hintenbumsen Disaster

Artistic. Lower off chains of Vampy.

FA: R.Bourne, 2003

26 Sport 10m
3 ** Vampy the Buffed Boy Slayer

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

24 Sport 12m
4 * Unleash the Mighty Mongrel

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

23 Sport 12m
5 * Actionman

FA: S.Bell,Mike File, 2002

22 Sport 12m
6 Project Sent

Still has the tag, but has been freed at 26.

Set by Felix Pircher

26 Sport
7 * Mighty Hermaphrodite

The very R end of the ledge - watch the drop below!

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

23 Sport 12m

1.19.10. Solo Gully 5 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.263380, -33.614170

Approach:© (mjw)

The Area between 'Solo Gully' and Walkdown 'Gully'. Best access is via Walkdown 'Gully'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Curtains for the Khymer

Needs rebolting.

Start: 'Flake' just inside 'Solo Gully'.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1981

24 Unknown 25m
2 *** 25th Floor

Rebolted 2004. More like 'Arapiles' that the Blue Mtns. Very good sustained climbing in a creepy environment makes this one feel much harder than it really is. 'Excellent' on a hot day and has a viewing gallery on the opposite wall of the chasm.

Start: Short steep corner/flake 5m up the gully. Follow the U-bolts. Supplementary cams (small and medium) are a comfort.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

24 Sport 25m
3 Fallen Zimbra Warriors

Right side of 'Solo Gully'. Overhang past piton. Then Wall to tree!

FA: C.Martin,L.Trihey, 1984

21 Trad 25m
4 Hands Up

Overhang 3m right of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 10m (16) Left to ledge.

  2. 15m (20) Up to orange scoop, then up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

20 Trad 45m 2
5 Hands Down

Start: Ledge at bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 35m (13) Traverse right, down, up to spike, then to high ledge and bollard near corner.

  2. 35m (13) Return to spike. Then straight up...

FA: K.Royce,B.Postill, 1972

13 Trad 64m 2

1.19.11. Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall 25 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wild is the Wind

Start: On a flat rock at the large eucalypt at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 40m (15) Up 3m to carrot then traverse R 10m (small cams). Up to another carrot then R 10m to double rings on far side of ledge.

  2. 20m (15) Awkward move up the corner and onto the left face. Up (wires in corner crack) and right onto the face. Follow carrots R across wall and up to cave. Double ring belay in back of cave or double carrots at the edge of the cave.

  3. 20m (14) Scarey move out of the cave to pull up onto the wall. Follow carrots straight up. Mid sized cams can supplement the carrots. Belay off big tree 10 back or double rings 5m over to the right.

FA: Roger

15 Trad 70m 3
2 Far Q 2

Start: On grassy ledge 10m right of the gully.

FA: B.Postill,K.Royce,S.Royce, 1972

20 Aid 43m
3 ** Shock And Awe

Start: QUICK ACCESS TO P2: Climb spikes 20m left of Superbug/Firebug and then traverse left 15m to get to the start of P2.


Traverse in around ledge at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'. This is easy but a bit scarey. Can be protected with a couple of medium cams. Belay on double rings

  1. 25m (22) Descend and climb out to arete. Ring just around the corner. Now traverse right and slightly downward on pumpy jugs to double ring semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (25) Crank and heelhook madly up to the horizontal break for a lie down rest in the slot. Thin and reachy power cranking gets you up the next blank section, then more easily up to the steep headwall. Straight up to double rings in the cave roof, or (the original line), traverse right and up to the Angels belay.

  3. 25m (23) Move to double rings at the left end of the cave. Pull up through the roof crack and then onto the hanging orange wall. Up the wall diagonally right and then pull through the roof above to the left of the rings. Double rings belay over to the left.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

25 Trad 75m 3
4 *** The Ass Of The Angel

Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky cruxes

Start: EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

27 Sport
5 * Say Cheese for High n Wild

Start: 6m left of 'Fire Bug'.

FA: A.Duckworth,W.Monks, 1998

20 Trad 36m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Fire Bug

The obvious line.

  1. 30m (17) Hard start.

  2. 15m (17) Corner to belay beneath block.

  3. 24m (17) Negotiate blocks, steep corner, sloping shelf. Left crack and cave.

  4. 6m (-) Left and out. Watch out for abseilers!

FA: John Ewbank, John Fantini

17 Trad 76m 4
7 ** Superbug

Arete 1m right of Firebug.

Start: Start up Firebug then swing right onto the face below the nose.

FA: S.Bell, 2002

26 Sport 25m
8 ** Bug Proboscis

An even more airy finish to 'Superbug'.

Start: 'Superbug'. Continue 10m past the top of 'Superbug' to chains.

  1. 30m (24)

  2. -m (-)

FA: R. Bourne, 2004

24 Sport 30m 2
9 * Light My Fire

Rap in to large ledge with chain. Climb up veering left to above Firebug. Follow rings to 2 alternative finishes.

FA: Roger Bourne

20 Sport 30m
10 ** Baby Carrots

Rap in from top above Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free to double rings. Many glue in carrots to top.

FA: Roger Bourne

14 Sport 35m
11 *** Better Than Wife

Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way.

Start: Start as for 'Bug Free' at the ugly undercut arete.

FA: R Bourne, 2004

27 Sport 30m
12 ** Bronze Orange Bug / Bug Free

An old aid route at 12m6 now freed grade at 25. A great mountains pumper, crux near the ground then great long climb on feature bright orange rock.

FFA: A. Duckworth, 2003

25 Sport 30m
13 Passion Vine Hopper 13 Unknown 43m
14 *** Vincent HRD

30m left of the 'Gully', on ledge. One of the best single pitch trad routes at Mt Boyce. Traverse from the ledge to the line and up to the stella diagonal hand jamb crack up to a chain about Thruxton.

FA: P.Jenkins,K.Joyce,B.Postill, 1972

FFA: john smoothy, 1983

21 Trad 20m 2
15 Air2Spare

Easy climbing after an exciting rap in to a semi-hanging belay.

Start: Rap 35m off two rings in the overhang about 10m right (facing out) of the top of Goldstar. Clip in to carrots on the way down.

trad + 10 bolt plates. Rap from top of Goldstar. Abseil rings are in the "cave" 10m right of Goldstar. Abseil 35m past 10 carrots tending slightly left (facing cliff). Double ring belay on a grey nose about 20m above ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic and your rope probably won't reach the ground. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Or just bolt plates and run it out).

FA: Susan Hoernlein, Paul Turner, 2004

12 Mixed 35m, 10
16 *** Thruxton

3m right of VHRD. A great sustained layback corner, most people just climb the first pitch to the chain.

  1. 27m (19) Corner to ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Thin crack, gully and out.

FA: B.Allen,W.Williams, 1972

19 Trad 57m 2
17 * Little Johnny

Right of air 2 spare on carrots

FA: 2007

14 Sport 30m
18 Manx

Start as for VHRD.

  1. 6m (-) Up to ledge.

  2. 34m (14) Crack and ramp to ledge.

  3. 24m (14) 2nd crack from the right to gully and out.

FA: B.Postill,P.Edwards, 1972

14 Trad 64m 3
19 Bonnieville

Start: First pitch as for Manx.

  1. 6m (-) Up to ledge.

  2. 34m (14) Crack and groove (keeping away from Manx). Left to high ledge.

  3. 24m (14) Crack to top.

FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1972

14 Trad 64m 3
20 Cow Chaser

Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start

FA: Farty Paul, R Bourne

FA: Paul Turner, R Bourne, 2004

18 Trad 20m
21 *** Gold Star
  1. 30m (16) Crack to ledge.

  2. 28m (18) 'Steep' crack to top.

FA: B.Allen,R.Lassman, 1972

18 Trad 58m 2
22 *** Gold Star Pitch 1

FA: Bryden Allen, Ray Lassman

16 Trad 30m
23 * Grand Slam 2008

Rings and bolts right of Goldstar

FA: Tony Williams/Nick T, 2008

20 Sport 20m
24 My Mate Matey 19 Unknown 25m
25 Half Life

Right hand side of the gully coming down.

Start: Streno crack, overhung corner and roof to top.

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1977

21 Trad 35m

1.19.12. Walk-down Gully 39 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.262536, -33.615089

Approach:© (mjw)

Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Diversion

The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.

  1. 24m (11) Crack to cavern.

  2. 30m (11) Up chimney then right.

FA: W.Williams,P.Giles, 1972

11 Trad 55m 2
2 Roughly Yours

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: Graham ?,J.Wurth, 1972

14 Trad 61m
3 The Wages of Sin

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984

23 Trad 50m
4 ** Gently Mine

FA: L Smith, W Williams

14 Trad 58m
5 * Divide and Dissolve

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy,G.James, 1985

23 Trad 45m
6 ** Pig Iron Slaughter

Rebolted May 2007

Start: Left side of the arete.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy,L.Trihey, 1984

21 Trad 45m
7 *** The Gates of Janus

Start: As for PIS, right into corner and up.

FA: K Bell, H Bevan

16 Trad 50m
8 * Took Crook

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

  1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

  2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

  3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

FFA: K.Bell,G.Mortimer,J.Morgan. (. B.Allen,W.Williams), 1972

20 R Trad 64m 3
9 Sally

Start: Crack to the right.

FA: Graham.?,J.Wurth, 1972

15 Trad 43m
10 Kite Eater 10 Unknown 61m
11 Peppermint Pattie 9 Trad 61m
12 Charlie Brown 11 Unknown 55m
13 Pig Pen 9 Unknown 46m
14 * Freewheeling 17 Trad 26m
15 * Shulz Sux 20 Unknown 50m
16 Craigs Effort 21 Unknown 25m
17 * Snoopy 14 Unknown 64m
18 Olympic Trivia 20 Unknown 20m
19 Professional Fat Lamb Man 18 Unknown 20m
20 ** Museum of Fire 23 Unknown 30m