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Description

Soft for the grade, but very long and moderately bold. Wandery thin slab that rejoins The Phoenix at its crux (last 8m of climbing) to avoid the much harder direct finish to the top.

Originally led as one giant 50m pitch, it can be broken up into as many as 3 pitches if necessary.

6 draws + Full set of Wires + small cams (to green 0.75), and 1 x #2, and 1x #4/#5 (for The Phoenix).

From the GROUND, start up Firefly and continue past its anchors. Trend right to arete (#2 cam), then up trending left to semi-detached block (Quetzal Bolt #1), then trend right to thin flake system for a move or two, then back left, moving a few metres left at Quetzal Bolt #3), before heading back right past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Move right into The Phoenix, then up The Phoenix to top on gear.

Ethic

Trad if possible, or mixed ...

inherited from The Phoenix

Route history

7 Jul 2013

First Free Ascent: P. Thomson, 7 Jul 2013

Belayed by Gene Gill.

Location

Lat/Long: -33.66268, 150.27479

Grade citation

21 Community registered grade
21 Paul Thomson

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 56% from 3 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Hang dog

Comment keywords

crux sustained dangerous rest hands

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Activity

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