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Soft for the grade, but very long and moderately bold. Wandery thin slab that rejoins The Phoenix at its crux (last 8m of climbing) to avoid the much harder direct finish to the top.

Originally led as one giant 50m pitch, it can be broken up into as many as 3 pitches if necessary.

6 draws + Full set of Wires + small cams (to green 0.75), and 1 x #2, and 1x #4/#5 (for The Phoenix).

From the GROUND, start up Firefly and continue past its anchors. Trend right to arete (#2 cam), then up trending left to semi-detached block (Quetzal Bolt #1), then trend right to thin flake system for a move or two, then back left, moving a few metres left at Quetzal Bolt #3), before heading back right past 2 more bolts to an anchor. Move right into The Phoenix, then up The Phoenix to top on gear.

Ethic: inherited from The Phoenix

Trad if possible, or mixed ...


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: P. Thomson, 7 Jul 2013

    Belayed by Gene Gill.


Located in The Phoenix approx:
Lat/Long: -33.662685,150.274787

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 56%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained dangerous rest hands

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