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Description:

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch).

Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area.

P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Ethic: inherited from The Phoenix

Trad if possible, or mixed ...

Tags:

Route History:

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 2013

    Cleaning and some bolt holes drilled by Julian Anderson and Cam Kinsey many years ago. Bolts and remaining holes were installed by Paul Thomson.

  • First Free Ascent: Paul Thomson, 2013

    Belayed by Gene Gill.

Location:  

Located in The Phoenix approx:
Lat/Long: -33.662685,150.274787

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 *Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 54%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good fun awesome scary short

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