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Description:

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch).

Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area.

P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • Route Setter: Paul Thomson, 2013

    Cleaning and some bolt holes drilled by Julian Anderson and Cam Kinsey many years ago. Bolts and remaining holes were installed by Paul Thomson.

  • First Free Ascent: P. Thomson, 2013

    Belayed by Gene.

Location:  

Located in The Phoenix approx:
Long/Lat: 150.274787,-33.662685

Route Grade Citations

21 Principal
21 * Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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