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Relatively easy climbing, in an outrageous position, marred by some rubbish rock on the arete.

Bring 1 x 0.75, 2 x #1, 1 x #2 and 1 x #3 camelots, 6 draws + anchors.

  1. 20m (15) As for Archeopteryx Pitch 1. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

  2. 25m - Up flake, then hand traverse left. After 3rd bolt, keep going left past 2 more bolts to overhanging arete. Climb arete past 0.75/#1, #2, #1 and #3 cam placements on monster jugs (peek-a-boo) and some suspect rock to top. Bring up second and walk up to anchors above Archeopteryx P2.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your section, and wall directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Ethic: inherited from The Phoenix

Trad if possible, or mixed ...


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Paul Thomson, 2015

    Belayed by Glen Thomson.


Located in The Phoenix approx:
Lat/Long: -33.662685,150.274787

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
19 Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

face arete crazy traverse

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