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Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 15m to cairn, follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gullys left branch and down. A bit like a canyon.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
24 * Mr McGuirkesqirter Sport 15m

Start: 17m right of the gully. Lefthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

25 *** Ashes to Ashes Sport 40m, 6

Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1985

25 * Dust to Dust Sport 15m

Start: Righthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

8 Venturi Trad 40m

Corner to roof, under this and up slab.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & S.van der Sluys, 1974

4 Peeceezy Trad 40m

The easiest route in the guide!

Start: Right of V.

FA: B.Ratter & C.Peisker, 1974

25 Cinders Sport 10m

Start: Above Peeceezy. Traverse the roof to the left. Backjump to clean.

FA: M.Brooks, 2002

19 Pommy Filth Sport 20m

Lefthand route. Take care with the rock at the top.

Start: On wall aroung the corner from previous routes.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998


Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

19 Bound to Eternity Sport 15m

Start: Left of the offwidth corner.

FA: J.Clarke, 1996

14 * Thunderfart Trad 35m

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

FA: J.Croker & B.Ratter, 1974


FA: S.Wainwright & K.Symonds, 1996

15 ** Noodle Sport 12m

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

18 ** Lexical Density Sport 25m

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge!

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

20 Charlene Trad 30m

Wall to horizontal break, right and up wall to top.

Start: Right of LD.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

20 ** Murmel Snooze Sport 25m, 9

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality).

FA: G. Short, 2008

19 * Public Pressure Sport 30m, 8

Start: As for 'Murmel Snooze'. Marked. Straight up through the overlap.

FA: M.Colyvan & P.Colyvan, 1982

16 *** Mezzaluna Sport 25m, 8

Has become a bit of a classic. 5 carrot bolts, 3 fixed hangers. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the last (carrot) bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

19 ** Tin Man Sport 18m

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

FA: John Dmoothy, Glenn Short & Gmma Williams, 2010

18 High Society Sport 25m, 7

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Hill, 1982

15 * Community Service Sport 20m, 6

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

FA: Julian Anderson

15 R Shabby Doll Trad 20m

Start: 3m right of Community Service. Dirty and not much gear.

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Hill, 1982

15 My Grandmother's Dinky Sport 20m, 4

Start: 3m left of Frolic.

9 Frolic Trad 13m

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

17 Unknown (2) Sport 12m, 4

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious.

18 Salubrious Sport 18m, 4

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

17 Unethical Sport 15m, 5


Start: Right again near boulder.

FA: P Matysek

16 Stinkeye Sport 12m, 5

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

17 I Know Boats Sport 18m, 4

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

17 Dalek Staircase Sport 12m, 4

Follow carrots veering up right to DRBB.

Start: As for IKB.

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery, 2002

Unknown Sport 10m, 4

A new climb that just seems to have appeared. Up slab and around overlap to DRBB.

17 Dales left nut Unknown 15m


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