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Description

Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 15m to cairn, follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gullys left branch and down. A bit like a canyon.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Mr McGuirkesqirter Sport 15m

Start: 17m right of the gully. Lefthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

2
25 *** Ashes to Ashes Sport 40m, 6

Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn, 1985

3
25 * Dust to Dust Sport 15m

Start: Righthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

4
8 Venturi Trad 40m

Corner to roof, under this and up slab.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.van der Sluys, 1974

5
4 Peeceezy Trad 40m

The easiest route in the guide!

Start: Right of V.

FA: B.Ratter,C.Peisker, 1974

6
19 Pommy Filth Sport 20m

Lefthand route. Take care with the rock at the top.

Start: On wall aroung the corner from previous routes.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

7

Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

8
19 Bound to Eternity Sport 15m

Start: Left of the offwidth corner.

FA: J.Clarke, 1996

9
14 * Thunderfart Trad 35m

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

FA: J.Croker,B.Ratter, 1974

10

FA: S.Wainwright,K.Symonds, 1996

11
15 ** Noodle Sport 12m

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

12
18 ** Lexical Density Sport 25m

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge!

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

13
14
20 Charlene Trad 30m

Wall to horizontal break, right and up wall to top.

Start: Right of LD.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

15
20 ** Murmel Snooze Sport 25m

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality).

FA: G. Short, 2008

16
18 R * Public Pressure Trad 30m

Start: As for 'Mezzaluna' but left, then left again at about 12m.

FA: M.Colyvan,P.Colyvan, 1982

17
16 *** Mezzaluna Sport 25m

Has become a bit of a classic.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

18
19 ** Tin Man Sport 18m

excellent wall between mezzaluna and high society

FA: John Dmoothy, Glenn Short, Gmma Williams, 2010

19
18 High Society Trad 25m

Up about 10m to'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

20
15 * Community Service Sport 20m

FA: Julian Anderson

21
15 Shabby Doll Trad 20m

Start: 5m right of HS. Lefthand route on the short wall.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

22
23
9 Frolic Trad 13m

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

24
17 Unknown (2) Sport 12m

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious.

25
18 Salubrious Sport 18m

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

26
17 Unethical Sport 15m

Why?

Start: Right again.

FA: P Matysek

27
15 Stinkeye Sport 12m

Start: Right again.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

28
17 I Know Boats Sport 18m
29
16 Dalek Staircase Unknown 12m

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery

30
17 Dales left nut Unknown 15m
32
25 Cinders Sport 10m

Start: Above P. Traverse the roof to the left. Backjump to clean.

FA: M.Brooks, 2002

33
17 Unknown Sport 12m

Start: Right again.

FA: Unknown, 2000

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