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Description

Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 15m to cairn, follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gullys left branch and down. A bit like a canyon.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ** Murmel Snooze Sport 25m, 9

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality).

FA: G. Short, 2008

2
19 * Public Pressure Sport 30m, 8

Start: As for 'Murmel Snooze'. Marked. Straight up through the overlap.

FA: M.Colyvan & P.Colyvan, 1982

3
16 *** Mezzaluna Sport 25m, 8

Has become a bit of a classic. 5 carrot bolts, 3 fixed hangers. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the last (carrot) bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

4
19 ** Tin Man Sport 18m

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

FA: john smoothy, glen short & gemma williams, 2010

5
18 High Society Sport 25m, 7

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Hill, 1982

6
15 * Community Service Sport 20m, 6

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

FA: Julian Anderson

7
15 Shabby Doll Sport 16m, 5

Up past obvious hole in the wall. Originally done on gear, now bolted with carrots (large heads).

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Hill, 1982

8
15 My Grandmother's Dinky Sport 20m, 4

Start: 3m left of Frolic.

9
9 Frolic Trad 13m

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

10
17 Unknown (2) Sport 12m, 4

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious.

11
18 Salubrious Sport 18m, 4

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

12
17 Unethical Sport 15m, 5

Why?

Start: Right again near boulder.

FA: P Matysek

13
16 Stinkeye Sport 12m, 5

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

14
17 I Know Boats Sport 18m, 4

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

15
17 Dalek Staircase Sport 12m, 4

Follow carrots veering up right to DRBB.

Start: As for IKB.

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery, 2002

16
Unknown Sport 10m, 4

A new climb that just seems to have appeared. Up slab and around overlap to DRBB.

17
17 Dales left nut Unknown 15m

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