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Table of contents

1. Blaxland Gully 33 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218092, -33.554410

Description:© (mjw)

Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 15m to cairn, follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gullys left branch and down. A bit like a canyon.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mr McGuirkesqirter

Start: 17m right of the gully. Lefthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

24 Sport 15m
2 *** Ashes to Ashes

Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn, 1985

25 Sport 40m, 6
3 * Dust to Dust

Start: Righthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

25 Sport 15m
4 Venturi

Corner to roof, under this and up slab.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.van der Sluys, 1974

8 Trad 40m
5 Peeceezy

The easiest route in the guide!

Start: Right of V.

FA: B.Ratter,C.Peisker, 1974

4 Trad 40m
6 Pommy Filth

Lefthand route. Take care with the rock at the top.

Start: On wall aroung the corner from previous routes.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

19 Sport 20m
7 Andy Wigley Sings the Blues

Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

21 Sport 20m
8 Bound to Eternity

Start: Left of the offwidth corner.

FA: J.Clarke, 1996

19 Sport 15m
9 * Thunderfart

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

FA: J.Croker,B.Ratter, 1974

14 Trad 35m
10 * Muriels Wedding and Russells Divorce

FA: S.Wainwright,K.Symonds, 1996

20 Sport 12m
11 ** Noodle

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

15 Sport 12m
12 ** Lexical Density

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge!

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

18 Sport 25m
13 Right of Lexical Density 19 Unknown 20m
14 Charlene

Wall to horizontal break, right and up wall to top.

Start: Right of LD.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

20 Trad 30m
15 ** Murmel Snooze

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality).

FA: G. Short, 2008

20 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Public Pressure

Start: As for 'Mezzaluna' but left, then left again at about 12m.

FA: M.Colyvan,P.Colyvan, 1982

18 R Sport 30m
17 *** Mezzaluna

Has become a bit of a classic. 5 carrot bolts, 3 fixed hangers. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the last (carrot) bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

16 Sport 25m, 8
18 ** Tin Man

excellent wall between mezzaluna and high society

FA: John Dmoothy, Glenn Short, Gmma Williams, 2010

19 Sport 18m
19 High Society

Up about 10m to'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

18 Sport 25m
20 * Community Service

FA: Julian Anderson

15 Sport 20m
21 Shabby Doll

Start: 5m right of HS. Lefthand route on the short wall.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

15 Trad 20m
22 My Grandmother's Dinky 17 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Frolic

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

9 Trad 13m
24 Unknown (2)

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious.

17 Sport 12m
25 Salubrious

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

18 Sport 18m
26 Unethical


Start: Right again.

FA: P Matysek

17 Sport 15m
27 Stinkeye

Start: Right again.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

15 Sport 12m
28 I Know Boats 17 Sport 18m
29 Dalek Staircase

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery

16 Unknown 12m
30 Dales left nut 17 Unknown 15m
31 Flap your hands like a chicken 17 Unknown 15m
32 Cinders

Start: Above P. Traverse the roof to the left. Backjump to clean.

FA: M.Brooks, 2002

25 Sport 10m
33 Unknown

Start: Right again.

FA: Unknown, 2000

17 Sport 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Peeceezy Trad 40m
8 Venturi Trad 40m
9 Frolic Trad 13m
14 * Thunderfart Trad 35m
15 * Community Service Sport 20m
** Noodle Sport 12m
Shabby Doll Trad 20m
Stinkeye Sport 12m
16 Dalek Staircase Unknown 12m
*** Mezzaluna Sport 25m, 8
17 Dales left nut Unknown 15m
Flap your hands like a chicken Unknown 15m
I Know Boats Sport 18m
My Grandmother's Dinky Sport 20m
Unethical Sport 15m
Unknown Sport 12m
Unknown (2) Sport 12m
18 High Society Sport 25m
** Lexical Density Sport 25m
Salubrious Sport 18m
18 R * Public Pressure Sport 30m
19 Bound to Eternity Sport 15m
Pommy Filth Sport 20m
Right of Lexical Density Unknown 20m
** Tin Man Sport 18m
20 Charlene Trad 30m
* Muriels Wedding and Russells Divorce Sport 12m
** Murmel Snooze Sport 25m
21 Andy Wigley Sings the Blues Sport 20m
24 * Mr McGuirkesqirter Sport 15m
25 *** Ashes to Ashes Sport 40m, 6
Cinders Sport 10m
* Dust to Dust Sport 15m