A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Blaxland Gully 33 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218092, -33.554410

Description:© (mjw)

Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 15m to cairn, follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gullys left branch and down. A bit like a canyon.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mr McGuirkesqirter

Start: 17m right of the gully. Lefthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

24 Sport 15m
2 *** Ashes to Ashes

Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn, 1985

25 Sport 40m, 6
3 * Dust to Dust

Start: Righthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

25 Sport 15m
4 Venturi

Corner to roof, under this and up slab.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.van der Sluys, 1974

8 Trad 40m
5 Peeceezy

The easiest route in the guide!

Start: Right of V.

FA: B.Ratter,C.Peisker, 1974

4 Trad 40m
6 Cinders

Start: Above Peeceezy. Traverse the roof to the left. Backjump to clean.

FA: M.Brooks, 2002

25 Sport 10m
7 Pommy Filth

Lefthand route. Take care with the rock at the top.

Start: On wall aroung the corner from previous routes.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

19 Sport 20m
8 Andy Wigley Sings the Blues

Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

21 Sport 20m
9 Bound to Eternity

Start: Left of the offwidth corner.

FA: J.Clarke, 1996

19 Sport 15m
10 * Thunderfart

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

FA: J.Croker,B.Ratter, 1974

14 Trad 35m
11 * Muriels Wedding and Russells Divorce

FA: S.Wainwright,K.Symonds, 1996

20 Sport 12m
12 ** Noodle

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

15 Sport 12m
13 ** Lexical Density

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge!

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

18 Sport 25m
14 Right of Lexical Density 19 Unknown 20m
15 Charlene

Wall to horizontal break, right and up wall to top.

Start: Right of LD.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

20 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Murmel Snooze

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality).

FA: G. Short, 2008

20 Sport 25m, 9
17 * Public Pressure

Start: As for 'Murmel Snooze'. Marked. Straight up through the overlap.

FA: M.Colyvan,P.Colyvan, 1982

19 Sport 30m, 8
18 *** Mezzaluna

Has become a bit of a classic. 5 carrot bolts, 3 fixed hangers. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the last (carrot) bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

16 Sport 25m, 8
19 ** Tin Man

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

FA: John Dmoothy, Glenn Short, Gmma Williams, 2010

19 Sport 18m
20 High Society

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

18 Sport 25m, 7
21 * Community Service

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

FA: Julian Anderson

15 Sport 20m, 6
22 Shabby Doll

Start: 3m right of Community Service. Dirty and not much gear.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

15 R Trad 20m
23 My Grandmother's Dinky

Start: 3m left of Frolic.

15 Sport 20m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Frolic

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

9 Trad 13m
25 Unknown (2)

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious.

17 Sport 12m, 4
26 Salubrious

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

18 Sport 18m, 4
27 Unethical


Start: Right again near boulder.

FA: P Matysek

17 Sport 15m, 5
28 Stinkeye

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

16 Sport 12m, 5
29 I Know Boats

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

17 Sport 18m, 4
30 Dalek Staircase

Follow carrots veering up right to DRBB.

Start: As for IKB.

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery, 2002

17 Sport 12m, 4
31 Unknown

A new climb that just seems to have appeared. Up slab and around overlap to DRBB.

Sport 10m, 4
32 Dales left nut 17 Unknown 15m
33 Flap your hands like a chicken 17 Unknown 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Peeceezy Trad 40m
8 Venturi Trad 40m
9 Frolic Trad 13m
14 * Thunderfart Trad 35m
15 * Community Service Sport 20m, 6
My Grandmother's Dinky Sport 20m, 4
** Noodle Sport 12m
15 R Shabby Doll Trad 20m
16 *** Mezzaluna Sport 25m, 8
Stinkeye Sport 12m, 5
17 Dalek Staircase Sport 12m, 4
Dales left nut Unknown 15m
Flap your hands like a chicken Unknown 15m
I Know Boats Sport 18m, 4
Unethical Sport 15m, 5
Unknown (2) Sport 12m, 4
18 High Society Sport 25m, 7
** Lexical Density Sport 25m
Salubrious Sport 18m, 4
19 Bound to Eternity Sport 15m
Pommy Filth Sport 20m
* Public Pressure Sport 30m, 8
Right of Lexical Density Unknown 20m
** Tin Man Sport 18m
20 Charlene Trad 30m
* Muriels Wedding and Russells Divorce Sport 12m
** Murmel Snooze Sport 25m, 9
21 Andy Wigley Sings the Blues Sport 20m
24 * Mr McGuirkesqirter Sport 15m
25 *** Ashes to Ashes Sport 40m, 6
Cinders Sport 10m
* Dust to Dust Sport 15m
? Unknown Sport 10m, 4