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Description

About 50 metres around the corner from the last climb on Western Tier (Shady Side) Lower.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 ** Blowtorch Sport 18m

Short roof to start the swing up to the wall on slopey jugs, varied climbing with a committing move up high.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012

2
23 * Whistleblower Sport 15m

start at juggy prow and up wall to ledge then try to find the crux holds in time

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

3
24 * Thar she blows Sport 15m

Up short wall to big juggy roof.

FA: Lloyd, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

4
24 * Body Blow Sport 12m

middle of crag. up wall and out the roof on flakes etc heading rightwards to finish

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

5
PROJECT1 Sport Project
6
25 ** Holelipstick Hippy Sport 16m

Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

7
28 * Blowpipe Blast Sport 14m, 12

24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

8
27 * Bloated Blowfish Sport 16m

Hard start, Hard finish

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

9
24 *** Up. Sport 18m

Action packed new route up the arete right of blow. Big start move then hold on through some steep moves to a ledge. Hard face moves follow then great jugs to the top. If the first move is to big then start up blow and traverse across.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

10
22 * Blow Sport 16m, 6

Tricky start then nice finger jugs on great orange rock. Just left of blunt orange arête. Worthwhile to continue up to the anchors on Up via another bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

The following section has some really good easier graded routes. Stays in the shade here till just after lunch. Lots of bolts and convenience are the name of the game here !

11
21 Megan 2 Sport 20m

Bit of a thin move about 1/3 of the way up

12
19 * P H M 2 - Extended Sport 20m

The second last bolt on Megan is next to the anchors on this one so you might as well keep going to the top of the cliff and clip another (hidden) bolt on the way and lower off Megan.

FA: Linkup

13
20 ** Megan 1 Sport 20m

Tricky start and exciting finish, there is a hidden bolt before the last move.

14
17 P H M 2 Sport 15m

Nice interesting pockets.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

15
16 P H M 1 Sport 15m

Up and leftwards. Jugs !!!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

16
15 * Megan 3 Sport 15m

The leftmost jug fest at the blow hole.

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