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Description

About 50 metres around the corner from the last climb on Western Tier (Shady Side) Lower.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 *** Blowtorch Sport 18m

Short roof to start the swing up to the wall on slopey jugs, varied climbing with a committing move up high.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2012

2
23 Whistleblower Sport 15m

Start at juggy prow and up wall to ledge then try to find the crux holds in time.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

3
24 * Thar she blows Sport 15m

Up short wall to big reach in the roof and nice head wall above.

FA: Lloyd, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

4
24 * Body Blow Sport 12m, 6

In the middle of crag. Up wall and out the roof on flakes etc before heading rightwards to finish. A long draw is recommended for the 5th bolt.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2012

5
PROJECT1 Sport Project
6
25 ** Holelipstick Hippy Sport 16m

Start on ledge then jug leftwards and up with a slopey crux at the lip of the roof, keep pumping the jugs up the steep head wall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

7
28 * Blowpipe Blast Sport 14m, 12

24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors

FA: lloyd wishart, 2013

8
27 * Bloated Blowfish Sport 16m

Hard start, Hard finish

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2011

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

9
24 ** Up. Sport 18m

Action packed new route up the arete right of blow. Big start move then hold on through some steep moves to a ledge. Hard face moves follow then great jugs to the top. If the first move is to big then start up Blow and traverse across.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

10
22 ** Blow Sport 16m, 6

Tricky start then nice finger jugs on great orange rock. Just left of blunt orange arête.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

11
22 * Blow Over Sport 20m

The Blow extension. From the anchors of Blow - continue up and leftwards to lower off at the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2nd Jan

12
22 Kiama Sport 20m

Start left of tree. Straight up till it gets easy then rightwards to shared lower off with BO. Stay left of the bolts for 22

FA: Jason Lammers, 2nd Jan

The following section has some really good easier graded routes. Stays in the shade here till just after lunch. Lots of bolts and convenience are the name of the game here !

13
21 * Megan 2 Sport 20m

Bit of a thin move about 1/3 of the way up

14
20 Megan 1 Sport 20m

Tricky start and exciting finish, there is a hidden bolt before the last move.

15
19 * P H M 2 - Extended Sport 20m

The second last bolt on Megan is next to the anchors on this one so you might as well keep going to the top of the cliff and clip another (hidden) bolt on the way and lower off Megan.

FA: Linkup

16
17 * P H M 2 Sport 15m

Nice interesting pockets.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

17
16 P H M 1 Sport 15m

Up and leftwards. Jugs !!!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

18
16 * Blow Me Sport 16m

Right of ferny crack; mostly straight forward with plenty of holds and a little move three quarters of the way up. Another good warm up for Blow Hole.

Set by Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 7th Jan

FA: Viona Young, Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart, 7th Feb

19
15 Megan 3 Sport 15m

The right side of the juggy orange streak.

FA: Megan, 2014

20
16 * Blow Dry Sport 15m

The left side of the juggy orange streak.

21
17 Louie gets the Blow Sport 14m, 5

A couple of moves to get started. Right of BF

FA: Jason Lammers, 7th Jan

22
18 Blow Fly Sport 15m, 8

The furthest left climb at the Blow Hole. Tricky start with a nice flake up high. No longer runout in the middle. A bolt has been added.

FA: Wade Stewart, 7th Jan

Open trips

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