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Description

One of the shortest approaches in the Blue Mountains, this small cave faces east, giving welcome shade in the afternoon. The views are spectacular.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

From the toilet at the carpark walk straight downhill (east) to the top of the cliff. Walk right for 50m and scramble down gully then walk left to steep orange mini crag. 5 minutes at most.

Descent Notes

All routes have lower-offs.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

History

Discovered by Neil Monteith in 2009.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
Closed Project Sport Project 10m, 5

Closed project - stay off. Stick-clip first ring, grab big heuco and monkey up face above through rooflet.

Set by Neil Monteith

2
22 * Bogan Lay Sport 12m, 5

Right side of crag. Reachy layback start then up steep wall above with a slight right trend. Crank through small roof to finish. Probably best to stickclip 2nd bolt unless you are strong.

FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, 2008