Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

The crag to the right of the descent- facing the cliff

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
Megan Project Sport Project 15m, 8

15m past the descent rungs.

2
28 *** Auto Bling Century Sport 18m, 9

This climb is a proper bang for your buck route. It may look short but it packs in a lot of climbing and styles that is never to hard but on till the oddly place anchors. Horizontal crux down low then big moves between positive holds, with a sneaky finish..

Soft at the grade but still not an easy tick.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

3
21 * Chairman Meow Sport 20m, 10

Sustained wall heading out left from the vegetated corner. Lots of tricky moves, usually involving tiny footholds! Shares the same first bolt and anchor with with Click Bait.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

4
22 * Click Bait Sport 18m, 9

Thin face left of the vegetated corner. A bit different to most of the steep thug fests around this part of the world.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

5
23 * Quaking Sport 18m, 8

Featured orange face just right of vegetated corner. Reachy move at 2nd bolt and tricky slopers to finish. A great warmup link-up is to climb Yellow Fever for two bolts then go left into this route - grade 21.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

6
23 ** Yellow Fever Sport 17m, 7

Steep orange wall of bomber rock with two distinct cruxes. 'Fantastic' rock shapes.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

7
25 ** Savage Had an Aneurysm Sport 17m, 7

Another good steep orange line. A one move wonder on thin holds, the rest is juggy steep fun. Might be grade 24 if you can crimp?

FFA: Simon Foxhill

8
30 *** Stilnox Sport 14m, 5

Hard start and even harder arete finish. Very impressive and inspiring line.

FFA: Anthony Savage

9
24 * Meat Wrap Sport 15m, 6

Face on the right side of the arete with a roof flake start and bizarre vertical ironstone fin at finish (treat this with caution or the climb will go up a few grades!) Extend 3rd draw to stop rope drag.

FFA: Neil Monteith

10
Project (Simon?) Sport Project 15m, 8

Looks impressive! 10m right at big roof. Straight through the ceiling and up the wall above. Should be a classic if simon ever gets back here to tick it.

FFA: Simon Foxhill