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Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The overhung face just right of the waterfall on the left end of the fixed ropes - starting off the shale ledge. Very hard start followed by great climbing on the pumpy red wall above. Seeps after heavy rain.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Bouldery start for sure, make sure your fingers are warmed up for the opening pockets. The climbing easies off after the third bolt but the redpoint crux is still up there.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Long and pumpy, a few fun traverse moves. Intimidating if 23 is your limit.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

JUst to the left of the rope end at hanging flake. Up and trend left on the bolts with red glue

FA: S Grkovic

Just right of 'BBQ Boys' up ironstone rib feature. Wanders around a bit and has some tricky slopers in the middle. Great sustained climbing.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Hyper classic of the crag. Starts just left of small hanging corner at right end of fixed ropes. Sustained bouldery climbing over bulges in the first half - then pumpy reachy climbing to finish.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

A bit scary. The left trending line sharing the same start of 'Wife Beater'. Rough rock and runout.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

Runout - has about half the bolts of nearby routes! Lucky the bolts protect the hard stuff. Top half is a bit loose and scary.

FFA: Anthony Savage

Big left facing flake feature with a hard last move. Rock quality isn't great.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

Crazy adventure all the way to the top of the cliff through a sea of choss. Lucky there is lots of bolts! You will need some long draws to cut down on the rope drag.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Possibly the easiest route at the crag - however it's not pretty. Big sandy horizontals.

FFA: Ed Rutherford

The technical extension to Mr Ed.

FFA: Steve Grkovic


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