Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The overhung face just right of the waterfall on the left end of the fixed ropes - starting off the shale ledge. Very hard start followed by great climbing on the pumpy red wall above. Seeps after heavy rain.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

2

Bouldery start.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

3

Long and pumpy, a few fun traverse moves. Intimidating if 23 is your limit.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

4
25 *** Barbie Boys / BBQ Boys Sport 20m, 9

JUst to the left of the rope end at hanging flake. Up and trend left on the bolts with red glue

FA: S Grkovic

5
26 ** Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 20m, 9

Just right of 'BBQ Boys' up ironstone rib feature. Wanders around a bit and has some tricky slopers in the middle. Great sustained climbing.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

6

Hyper classic of the crag. Starts just left of small hanging corner at right end of fixed ropes. Sustained bouldery climbing over bulges in the first half - then pumpy reachy climbing to finish.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

7
24 Boris the Blade Sport 16m, 7

A bit scary. The left trending line sharing the same start of 'Wife Beater'. Rough rock and runout.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

8
25 * Wife Beater Sport 17m, 5

Runout - has about half the bolts of nearby routes! Lucky the bolts protect the hard stuff. Top half is a bit loose and scary.

FFA: Anthony Savage

9
22 All The Way May Sport 11m, 5

Big left facing flake feature with a hard last move. Rock quality isn't great.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

10

Crazy adventure all the way to the top of the cliff through a sea of choss. Lucky there is lots of bolts! You will need some long draws to cut down on the rope drag.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

11
19 Mr Ed Sport 14m, 6

Possibly the easiest route at the crag - however it's not pretty. Big sandy horizontals.

FFA: Ed Rutherford

12
21 ** The Original Bogan Sport 20m, 9

The technical extension to Mr Ed.

FFA: Steve Grkovic