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Description

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Far left of the crag. Tricky moves to third bolt lead to temporarily easier ground before tackling a small roof. Up through scoops.

FA: M Turnbull

Nice smooth rock and funky pockets doesn't last long. Onto rough overhanging jugfest.

FA: M Turnbull

Shared start with Boganville, but go up, not left.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Long crag classic traversing right and up. The best warm up on this side of the wall. Great rock quality.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Steep juggy start leads to a grey slab.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Ugly start then steep jugs to top.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Start at belay bolt on ledge. Is the left line. Epic steep pumper on big holds with rooflet start. Just keeps on going and going... and going.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

Start as for BSABG, but is the right line.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

About 5m right under little roof. Great long pumper, a must if you can climb the grade.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

An awesome pumper that should see more traffic. Once the hard start is solved and good rest is gained the fun really starts. The dyno just before the roof isn't hard but it is pretty wild

FFA: Steve Grkovic

A short boulder problem above and left of Stop Gear anchors.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Super pumper on steep pockets and incut edges to the hanging flake. Not that hard or cruxy but very pumpy. Classic.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

The hard man line of the crag. Looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

Activity

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