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Description:© (nmonteith)

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Tickle My Palm

Tricky moves to third bolt lead to temporarily easier ground before tackling a small roof. Up through scoops. Far left of the crag.

FA: M Turnbull,

24
Sport 18m
2 * Mr Brown

Nice smooth rock and funky pockets doesnt last long. Onto rough overhanging jugfest

FA: M Turnbull,

20
Sport 20m
3 *** Knights Templar

Traverse left to right across beautiful rock to reach juggy headwall. Up this on massive holds to final tricky move to finish on black slab. Really good pumper! The first route bolted on this section of wall.

22
Sport 27m
4 ** Secret society

Remarkable steep heucos to start then endless juggy horizontals to finish. Great.

21
Sport 22m
5 * Fight Club

Ugly start then steep jugs to top.

22
Sport
6 ** Letters from Graz

Epic steep pumper on big holds with rooflet start. Just keeps on going and going... and going.

23
Sport 30m