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Description

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Tricky moves to third bolt lead to temporarily easier ground before tackling a small roof. Up through scoops. Far left of the crag.

FA: M Turnbull

2

Nice smooth rock and funky pockets doesnt last long. Onto rough overhanging jugfest

FA: M Turnbull

3
21 My flannelette shirt Sport 20m, 9

Shared start with Boganville

FFA: Megan Turnbull

4

Long Crag classic, the best warm up on this side of the wall. Great rock quality.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

5

Steep juggy start leads to a grey slab.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

6
22 * Fluffy dice / Fight Club Sport 20m, 10

Ugly start then steep jugs to top.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

7

Epic steep pumper on big holds with rooflet start. Just keeps on going and going... and going.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

8
24 Mcbattler Sport 26m, 11

FFA: Steve Grkovic

9

Great long pumper, a must if you can climb the grade.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

10
27 Big hair day Sport 30m, 12

FFA: Steve Grkovic

11
30 Suburban mayhem Sport 22m, 10

A short boulder problem above and left of Stop Gear anchors.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

12
27 *** Stop Gear Sport 18m, 8

Super pumper on steep pockets and incut edges to the hanging flake. Not that hard or cruxie but very pumpy. Classic

FFA: Steve Grkovic

13
30 Captain slow Sport 22m, 10

FFA: Steve Grkovic

14
30 V8 super polluter Sport 31m, 13

FFA: Steve Grkovic

15
31 *** Subourbon myth Sport 30m, 14

The hard man line of the crag. Looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

16
29 Hydrogen peroxide Sport 27m, 13

FFA: Steve Grkovic