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Table of contents

1. Boganville 38 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.262221, -33.764597

Description:© (nmonteith)

West facing sport climbing up steep orange rock. Similar in style to 'Bowens Creek'. Route names are from Simon Carter's guidebook and route descriptions are a mix of that guide and recent first hand ascents. Many of the grades in the Carter guide are wrong as they were guesstimates.

This crag is in National Park, please behave accordingly. In particular do not damage any vegetation, as there are some rare endangered plants which live near this crag and on the walk-in and NOWHERE ELSE. If climbers destroy the plants' peace, National Parks will probably do the same to climbers - don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Diamond Falls' carpark walk/ride along 'Narrow Neck' road for 50 minutes to obvious pine tree. Leave road there and follow foot-track downhill to cliff.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Left Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Description:© (nmonteith)

Fantastic long steep routes with big holds. If you like to pump this place is the shnizzle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gay Witches For Abortion / Tickle My Palm

Far left of the crag. Tricky moves to third bolt lead to temporarily easier ground before tackling a small roof. Up through scoops.

FA: M Turnbull

24 Sport 18m, 9
2 * The Fishmongers Wife / Mr Brown

Nice smooth rock and funky pockets doesn't last long. Onto rough overhanging jugfest.

FA: M Turnbull

21 Sport 24m, 10
3 * My Flannelette Shirt

Shared start with Boganville, but go up, not left.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

21 Sport 20m, 9
4 ** Boganville / Knights Templar

Long crag classic traversing right and up. The best warm up on this side of the wall. Great rock quality.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

21 Sport 28m, 11
5 ** Yobbo Cow Bait / Secret society

Steep juggy start leads to a grey slab.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

22 Sport 20m, 10
6 * Fluffy Dice / Fight Club

Ugly start then steep jugs to top.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

22 Sport 20m, 10
7 ** Big Shoulders And Beer Guts / Letters from Graz

Start at belay bolt on ledge. Is the left line. Epic steep pumper on big holds with rooflet start. Just keeps on going and going... and going.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

23 Sport 28m, 13
8 Mcbattler

Start as for BSABG, but is the right line.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

24 Sport 26m, 11
9 *** Johnny The Neo Liberal Bogan

About 5m right under little roof. Great long pumper, a must if you can climb the grade.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

24 Sport 25m, 12
10 Big Hair Day

About 5m R.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

27 Sport 30m, 12
11 Suburban Mayhem

A short boulder problem above and left of Stop Gear anchors.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

30 Sport 22m, 10
12 *** Stop Gear

Super pumper on steep pockets and incut edges to the hanging flake. Not that hard or cruxy but very pumpy. Classic.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

27 Sport 18m, 8
13 Captain Slow

FFA: Steve Grkovic

30 Sport 22m, 10
14 V8 Super Polluter

FFA: Steve Grkovic

30 Sport 31m, 13
15 *** Subourbon Myth

The hard man line of the crag. Looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

31 Sport 30m, 14
16 Hydrogen Peroxide

FFA: Steve Grkovic

29 Sport 27m, 13

1.2. Right Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Description:© (nmonteith)

Steep and juggy with lots of bolts. Right side is chossy. Totally waterproof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Checkout Chimp / Show Me the Money

The overhung face just right of the waterfall on the left end of the fixed ropes - starting off the shale ledge. Very hard start followed by great climbing on the pumpy red wall above. Seeps after heavy rain.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

29 Sport 22m, 9
2 * Grease Moneky / Glue Ain't Cheap

Bouldery start.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

26 Sport 20m, 7
3 *** Venissieux / Need to Sharpen My Saw

Long and pumpy, a few fun traverse moves. Intimidating if 23 is your limit.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

23 Sport 23m, 9
4 *** Barbie Boys / BBQ Boys

JUst to the left of the rope end at hanging flake. Up and trend left on the bolts with red glue

FA: S Grkovic

25 Sport 20m, 9
5 ** Barefoot and Pregnant

Just right of 'BBQ Boys' up ironstone rib feature. Wanders around a bit and has some tricky slopers in the middle. Great sustained climbing.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

26 Sport 20m, 9
6 *** Automobiles as Personality and Ego Substitutes

Hyper classic of the crag. Starts just left of small hanging corner at right end of fixed ropes. Sustained bouldery climbing over bulges in the first half - then pumpy reachy climbing to finish.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

25 Sport 19m, 8
7 Boris the Blade

A bit scary. The left trending line sharing the same start of 'Wife Beater'. Rough rock and runout.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

24 Sport 16m, 7
8 * Wife Beater

Runout - has about half the bolts of nearby routes! Lucky the bolts protect the hard stuff. Top half is a bit loose and scary.

FFA: Anthony Savage

25 Sport 17m, 5
9 All The Way May

Big left facing flake feature with a hard last move. Rock quality isn't great.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

22 Sport 11m, 5
10 * Rottwelier / Terms Of Trade

Crazy adventure all the way to the top of the cliff through a sea of choss. Lucky there is lots of bolts! You will need some long draws to cut down on the rope drag.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

24 Sport 30m, 13
11 Mr Ed

Possibly the easiest route at the crag - however it's not pretty. Big sandy horizontals.

FFA: Ed Rutherford

19 Sport 14m, 6
12 ** The Original Bogan

The technical extension to Mr Ed.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

21 Sport 20m, 9

1.3. Fever Face 10 routes in Cliff


The crag to the right of the descent- facing the cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Megan Project

15m past the descent rungs.

Sport Project 15m, 8
2 *** Auto Bling Century

This climb is a proper bang for your buck route. It may look short but it packs in a lot of climbing and styles that is never to hard but on till the oddly place anchors. Horizontal crux down low then big moves between positive holds, with a sneaky finish..

Soft at the grade but still not an easy tick.

FFA: Steve Grkovic

28 Sport 18m, 9
3 * Chairman Meow

Sustained wall heading out left from the vegetated corner. Lots of tricky moves, usually involving tiny footholds! Shares the same first bolt and anchor with with Click Bait.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

21 Sport 20m, 10
4 * Click Bait

Thin face left of the vegetated corner. A bit different to most of the steep thug fests around this part of the world.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

22 Sport 18m, 9
5 * Quaking

Featured orange face just right of vegetated corner. Reachy move at 2nd bolt and tricky slopers to finish. A great warmup link-up is to climb Yellow Fever for two bolts then go left into this route - grade 21.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23 Sport 18m, 8
6 ** Yellow Fever

Steep orange wall of bomber rock with two distinct cruxes. 'Fantastic' rock shapes.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

23 Sport 17m, 7
7 ** Savage Had an Aneurysm

Another good steep orange line. A one move wonder on thin holds, the rest is juggy steep fun. Might be grade 24 if you can crimp?

FFA: Simon Foxhill

25 Sport 17m, 7
8 *** Stilnox

Hard start and even harder arete finish. Very impressive and inspiring line.

FFA: Anthony Savage

30 Sport 14m, 5
9 * Meat Wrap

Face on the right side of the arete with a roof flake start and bizarre vertical ironstone fin at finish (treat this with caution or the climb will go up a few grades!) Extend 3rd draw to stop rope drag.

FFA: Neil Monteith

24 Sport 15m, 6
10 Project (Simon?)

Looks impressive! 10m right at big roof. Straight through the ceiling and up the wall above. Should be a classic if simon ever gets back here to tick it.

FFA: Simon Foxhill

Sport Project 15m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
19 Mr Ed Sport 14m, 6 1.2. Right Wall
21 ** Boganville Sport 28m, 11 1.1. Left Wall
* My Flannelette Shirt Sport 20m, 9 1.1. Left Wall
* The Fishmongers Wife Sport 24m, 10 1.1. Left Wall
** The Original Bogan Sport 20m, 9 1.2. Right Wall
* Chairman Meow Sport 20m, 10 1.3. Fever Face
22 * Fluffy Dice Sport 20m, 10 1.1. Left Wall
** Yobbo Cow Bait Sport 20m, 10 1.1. Left Wall
All The Way May Sport 11m, 5 1.2. Right Wall
* Click Bait Sport 18m, 9 1.3. Fever Face
23 ** Big Shoulders And Beer Guts Sport 28m, 13 1.1. Left Wall
*** Venissieux Sport 23m, 9 1.2. Right Wall
* Quaking Sport 18m, 8 1.3. Fever Face
** Yellow Fever Sport 17m, 7 1.3. Fever Face
24 * Gay Witches For Abortion Sport 18m, 9 1.1. Left Wall
*** Johnny The Neo Liberal Bogan Sport 25m, 12 1.1. Left Wall
Mcbattler Sport 26m, 11 1.1. Left Wall
Boris the Blade Sport 16m, 7 1.2. Right Wall
* Rottwelier Sport 30m, 13 1.2. Right Wall
* Meat Wrap Sport 15m, 6 1.3. Fever Face
25 *** Automobiles as Personality and Ego Substitutes Sport 19m, 8 1.2. Right Wall
*** Barbie Boys Sport 20m, 9 1.2. Right Wall
* Wife Beater Sport 17m, 5 1.2. Right Wall
** Savage Had an Aneurysm Sport 17m, 7 1.3. Fever Face
26 ** Barefoot and Pregnant Sport 20m, 9 1.2. Right Wall
* Grease Moneky Sport 20m, 7 1.2. Right Wall
27 Big Hair Day Sport 30m, 12 1.1. Left Wall
*** Stop Gear Sport 18m, 8 1.1. Left Wall
28 *** Auto Bling Century Sport 18m, 9 1.3. Fever Face
29 Hydrogen Peroxide Sport 27m, 13 1.1. Left Wall
** Checkout Chimp Sport 22m, 9 1.2. Right Wall
30 Captain Slow Sport 22m, 10 1.1. Left Wall
Suburban Mayhem Sport 22m, 10 1.1. Left Wall
V8 Super Polluter Sport 31m, 13 1.1. Left Wall
*** Stilnox Sport 14m, 5 1.3. Fever Face
31 *** Subourbon Myth Sport 30m, 14 1.1. Left Wall
Megan Project Sport Project 15m, 8 1.3. Fever Face
? Project (Simon?) Sport Project 15m, 8 1.3. Fever Face