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Easy climbing on a short grey buttress.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
18 X Kitty Gobsmacker Trad 12m

Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

Start: 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

22 ** Cowboy Clip LH Start Sport 10m
21 * Cowboy Clip Sport 10m

Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

FA: M.Portman, 1992

25 * Silent Rage Sport 15m

Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree.

FA: A.Bull, A.Dunbar & S.Wythe, 1992

17 * Mr. Curly Sport 10m

Start: Short juggy corner.

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

21 * Diana Ross Sport 15m

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

19 * Albatross Sport 16m

Start as for 'ancient mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden & M.Whitehouse, 1989

19 * Ancient Mariner Sport 15m

Right hand route on the mini wall, up to chain anchor on the arete.

FA: B.Junge & M.Portman, 1994


Start: Climbs just right of the arete.

FA: M.Portman., 2000

14 * Squashed Parrot Sport 18m

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin & L.McManus, 1989


FA: N.Crabb, 1992


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