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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
FR A1 Klaus's A1 Aid

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

2
23 Sprouts Mexicane Sport 15m

Sharp Jugs,

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall.

FA: S.Bell,C.Vandereydt, 1995

3
24 * Sydney Rose Sport 12m

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

4

FA: M.Baker, 1992

5
23 R * Eureka Sport 25m

FA: L.Trihey,J.Smoothy, 1989

6
23 * Euchre Sport 22m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

7
23 *** Lyptus Sport 23m, 8

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes. Very popular. The fixed biners on the anchor are getting pretty rusty and are not in an ideal spot (they pinch the rope against the rock), so take some long draws for lowering off.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

8
25 *** Grape Hour Sport 22m

One of the best 25's in the mtns, enjoy!

FA: Mike Law

9
25 ** Grape Power Sport 20m

Links the start of 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'.

Starts up grape hour and breaks right to finish at the grey power anchors.

10
26 * Grey Power Sport 25m

Starts up veterans affairs breaks left and finishes at its own anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

11
27 ** Veteren's Affair Sport 20m

If you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

12

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette

13
27 ** Anuerysm Sport 20m

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead.

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

14
15
27 ** Onions Sport 20m

From the ground via the communal start the left, used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

16

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

17
29 ** Mudeye Sport 20m

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

18

FA: S.Johns, 1993

19
33 ** Mechanical Animals Sport 20m

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey

20
30 ** Tripe Sport 30m

FA: M.Baker, 1992

21
29 Camel Toe Sport 25m

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

22
28 ** Green Eggs and Ham Sport 35m

Traverse. Back jump to clean.

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

23
Project - Zac Sport Project 30m

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals!

24
Project - Ben Sport Project 30m

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

25
30 ** Big Wednesday Sport 27m

Start: In the grotto about 6m to the right of Dont Believe...

FA: M.Baker, 1994

26
Lee's Traverse Sport 20m

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

27
23 Offal Sport 20m

Walking past big wednesday about 80m

28
23 Open Slather Sport 20m

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday.