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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

Sharp jugs.

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall. Traverse left for three bolts then head up the steepness.

FA: S.Bell & C.Vandereydt, 1995

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

Start at the same first bolt as 'Sprouts Mexicane' then up and left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: M.Baker, 1992

FA: L.Trihey & J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Better warm up option than Lyptus and still fun.

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes. Very popular. The fixed biners on the anchor are getting pretty rusty and are not in an ideal spot (they pinch the rope against the rock), so take some long draws for lowering off.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

One of the best 25's in the mtns, enjoy! Bad bolts replaced 13-12-2006, hopefully the strange position of the 4th will be fixed next rebolt. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

FA: Mike Law, 1994

Links the start of 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. It's advisable to bring a small-med cam, or a boltplate to clip the carrot, so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too. The anchor is a bit bodgy.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt most people veer back L and basically rejoin Grey Power to get past the little roof before spanning back to the R.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead.

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

From the ground via the communal start the left, used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

The Boronia classic.

FA: S.Johns, 1993

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

Traverse. Back jump to clean.

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals! The draws have been left on it for at least 5 years, so its probably fair to say the project is open and the draws are booty.

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Start: In the grotto about 6m to the right of Dont Believe...

FA: M.Baker, 1994

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Short steep wall 10m left of offal. Brutal bouldering to a nice span and easy finish.

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Roman Hoffman, 2017

Walking past big wednesday about 80m

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Main Wall (Ferris Cave).