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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

MitchWarren David O'Donnell Mark Ashmore Will Monks Peter Webster Lee Cujes Mark Betts Daniel da Silva

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Table of contents

1. Boronia Point 53 routes in Crag

41
1 Main Wall (Ferris Cave), 4 Alphabet Wall
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258505, -33.602979

Description:© (aca_admin)

On the eastern side of Mt Piddington the main area is actually Ferris Cave and was once a popular destination for walkers. Access down the Hornes Pt fire trail, turn left at signs and then right again on the Ferris Cave track (straight ahead takes you to the Boronia Pt lookout which is directly above the crag). The first area you arrive at coming this way is the Ancient Mariner Buttress.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave) 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258541, -33.602901

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Klaus's A1

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

A1
Aid
2 Sprouts Mexicane

Sharp Jugs,

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall.

FA: S.Bell,C.Vandereydt, 1995

23
Sport 15m
Tim Haasnoot 7 months ago

Sharp, had to do to laps to clean again at end of day.

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Awkward, pumpy and sharp, though almost entirely on jugs. The bolts are placed in some weird spot...

3 * Sydney Rose

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

24
Sport 12m
Tim Haasnoot 3 weeks ago

Just to wasted at the end of the day. Interesting moves.

ross ferguson 4 months ago

Quite steep

4 ** Slipping on Something Comfortable

FA: M.Baker, 1992

27
Sport 25m
5 ** Eureka

FA: L.Trihey,J.Smoothy, 1989

23 R
Sport 25m
6 * Euchre

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23
Sport 22m
ross ferguson 4 months ago

Hard start.

Paul Thomson 4 months ago

3 shots in an hour today. By the second shot I had it DIALLED, but just too tired at 4pm for the ...

7 *** Lyptus

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes. Very popular. The fixed biners on the anchor are getting pretty rusty and are not in an ideal spot (they pinch the rope against the rock), so take some long draws for lowering off.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23
Sport 23m , 8
Jason Nguyen 4 months ago

Epic. Two attempts, one putting up draws, and one wishing I was hauling on the draws. :P Crux too...

ross ferguson 4 months ago

Did the first few moves in winter and bailed a long time ago. Dont know what was thinking! Great...

8 *** Grape Hour

One of the best 25's in the mtns, enjoy!

FA: Mike Law,

25
Sport 22m
ross ferguson 4 months ago

Draws were on it. Great route. If there was 1 more small hold I was off. Pumper.

Damien Ayers 4 months ago

Tired, but it all felt pretty good. Huzzah

9 * Grape Power (Link-Up)

Links the start of 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'.

25
Trad 20m
10 * Grape Power Plus

Start: As for VA. However, these days it is probably better to start as for GH and do it at nice 25. Climb through the right side of the scoop and do the direct finish and you just might get it at 26.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

25
Sport 20m
11 * Grape Power

Starts up grape hour and breaks right to finish at the grey power anchors.

25
Sport 20m
Jason Smith 3 weeks ago

Mostly onsight. Nice and sustained, but sharp like most things here

Nick Cormack 3 years ago

First go. Another great Boronia climb.

12 * Grey Power

Starts up veterans affairs breaks left and finishes at its own anchors.

FA: john smoothy, 1989

26
Sport 25m
13 ** Veteren's Affair

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

27
Sport 20m
Will Monks 13 days ago

Great movement, would be a classic if it wasn't so painfully sharp. [1] gear on [2] 1 hang just b...

Jay trent 1 years ago

sharp and really hard. Good fun though

14 Dont Believe the Hype

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette,

30
Sport 25m
15 ** Anuerysm

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead.

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

27
Sport 20m
Jason Smith 1 years ago

Nice steep climbing with a hard start and finish. Quite......steady for the grade

Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago

Couldn't stick the start move, couldn't get the move past the second last bolt. Asside from that ...

16 ** Onions Original Version
26 M1
Aid 18m
17 ** Onions

from the ground

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

27
Sport 20m
Tim Haasnoot 3 weeks ago

3 more shots, just need so more endurance for that last move. 1 rest then to top.

Will Monks 5 months ago

nearly did it placing draws, then next go (7pm). its a ripper!

18 ** Onions (The Mega Extended Version)

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

27
Sport 25m
Will Monks 5 months ago

Just a quick play. 28 IMHO, that move is hard even off the bolt. Pretty good though!

19 ** Onions Direct
27
Unknown 30m
David O'Donnell 4 years ago

a good deal harder than the standard onion.

David O'Donnell 4 years ago

one more little crux!....where it hurts!

20 ** Mudeye

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

29
Sport 20m
21 *** Don't Believe the Tripe

FA: S.Johns, 1993

29
Sport 30m
Jay trent 1 years ago

what an awesome route. have been working on it for a while now but it finally went down.

Lee Cujes 1 years ago

Fell going to the button. Just a bit too tired for this one at this stage of the trip. Tried hard...

22 ** Mechanical Animals

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey,

33
Sport 20m
23 ** Tripe

FA: M.Baker, 1992

30
Sport 30m
24 Camel Toe

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

29
Sport 25m
25 ** Green Eggs and Ham

Traverse. Back jump to clean.

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

28
Sport 35m
lloyd wishart 3 years ago

at long last. 10 yrs in the seiging, but so much fun!

David O'Donnell 3 years ago

and 500 schooners!

26 Project - Zac

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals!

Sport Project 30m
27 Project - Ben

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Sport Project 30m
28 ** Big Wednesday

Start: In the grotto about 6m to the right of Dont Believe...

FA: M.Baker, 1994

30
Sport 27m
29 Lee's Traverse

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Sport 20m
30 Offal

Walking past big wednesday about 80m

23
Sport 20m
31 Open Slather

Walk about 80m past big wednesday.

23
Sport 20m

1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport,? and Trad
Description:

Easy climbing on a short grey buttress.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Kitty Gobsmacker

Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

Start: 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

18 X
Trad 12m
2 * Cowboy Clip LH Start
22
Unknown 10m
David O'Donnell 6 years ago

change in scenery

JJ 7 years ago

Nice catch Handsome, more coming off the starting hold. 10/12/05:Its a little harder now that Han...

3 * Cowboy Clip

FA: M.Portman, 1992

21
Sport 10m
Jason Nguyen 4 months ago

Repeat, fun times.

Matthew Glendenning 4 months ago

Easy for grade but lots of fun

4 Silent Rage

Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree.

FA: A.Bull,A.Dunbar,S.Wythe, 1992

25
Sport 15m
Nick Cormack 4 years ago

Nice bunch of crimps in the middle. Short and not that inspiring compared to whats around the cor...

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

Boronia is a circus on Sundays but this classic never has a queue??

5 Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant)
23
Unknown 12m
David O'Donnell 5 years ago

33% onsight, as I've been up the directe version...but I didnt think "crunches" variant was much ...

JJ 7 years ago

Hard. Deck potential clipping 3rd bolt.

6 Mr. Curly

Start: Short juggy corner.

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

17
Sport 10m
Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Lots of random holds, no real crux though. Top is easier though.

Susy G 1 years ago

With Mark and Jitka

7 Diana Ross

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

21
Sport 15m
James 4 months ago

2nd go after a slip at the crux.

Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Low crux. BETA ALERT: At the crux, use a right heel hook. Easy top.

8 Albatross

Start as for 'Diana Ross',then straight up to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden,M.Whitehouse, 1989

19
Sport 16m
Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Top is same to the others, not bad down low. Easier than AM.

Susy G 1 years ago

With Mark and Jitka

9 * Ancient Mariner

Right hand route on the mini wall, up to chain anchor on the arete.

FA: B.Junge,M.Portman, 1994

19
Sport 15m
Jason Nguyen 4 months ago

Repeat, good warm up! Waiting for the main wall to get into shade.

Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Surprisingly pumpy. Like all the other climbs here, bottom hard, top easy.

10 Creature Without a Brain

Start: Climbs just right of the arete.

FA: M.Portman., 2000

17
Sport 15m
Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Hard start.

Susy G 7 months ago

Warm up for Grape Hour

11 Squashed Parrot

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin,L.McManus, 1989

14
Sport 18m
Sam May 4 months ago

Very hard off the ground.

Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Start is NOT 14. Honestly a difficult start, and sharp too. Mileage!

12 * Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

18
Sport 12m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

Poor carrots throughout - evidenced by the ripped out bottom one.

David Kobler 5 years ago

Ok climb nothing crash hot though

1.3. Lower Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport,?
Description:

Lower cliff accessed via rap point below Ancient Mariner Buttress.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 A Permanent Shiver
20
Unknown 20m
2 Pop the Question

This is the arete on the left end of the ledge. Its mixed so you need bolt plates and a little gear!

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke, J.Smoothy, 1989

23
Sport 35m
3 Naughty Little Monkey

You need some bolt plates for this but it can be done just on the rings!

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

23
Sport 30m

1.4. Alphabet Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.259655, -33.602229

Description:

This little wall is between Boronia main wall and boycetown.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Battery Chicken (A)
21
Sport 15m
Duncan Steel 5 years ago

Fun way 2 finsh off the day

Doug 5 years ago

small holds for first few bolts

2 Pixie Drink (B)
19
Sport 15m
Duncan Steel 5 years ago

Fun way 2 finsh off the day

Doug 5 years ago

steep, hard, big moves, big holds, ? rock

3 Freakin 'n Groovin
23
Sport 15m
Duncan Steel 5 years ago

Fun way 2 finsh off the day

4 * C
23
Sport 25m
Doug 5 years ago
  1. Little spicy.
Tim Haasnoot 9 years ago

didn't get a go, had big rock smash foot open

5 * Born Again Losers (E)
25
Sport 8m
JJ 7 years ago

This should've been onsight, stuffed start, then re-started. Goey 1st moves, campus to glory! 2nd go

6 F
24
Sport 8m
7 Gee (G)
24
Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
14 Squashed Parrot Sport 18m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
17 Creature Without a Brain Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Mr. Curly Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
18 Kitty Gobsmacker Trad 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt Sport 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
19 Albatross Sport 16m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Ancient Mariner Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Pixie Drink (B) Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
20 A Permanent Shiver Unknown 20m 1.3. Lower Cliff
21 * Cowboy Clip Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Diana Ross Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Battery Chicken (A) Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
22 * Cowboy Clip LH Start Unknown 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
23 * Euchre Sport 22m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Eureka Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Lyptus Sport 23m , 8 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Offal Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Open Slather Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Sprouts Mexicane Sport 15m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant) Unknown 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Naughty Little Monkey Sport 30m 1.3. Lower Cliff
Pop the Question Sport 35m 1.3. Lower Cliff
* C Sport 25m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
Freakin 'n Groovin Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
24 * Sydney Rose Sport 12m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
F Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
Gee (G) Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
25 *** Grape Hour Sport 22m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
* Grape Power Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
* Grape Power (Link-Up) Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
* Grape Power Plus Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Silent Rage Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Born Again Losers (E) Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
26 * Grey Power Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
26 M1 ** Onions Original Version Aid 18m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
27 ** Anuerysm Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Onions Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Onions (The Mega Extended Version) Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Onions Direct Unknown 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Slipping on Something Comfortable Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Veteren's Affair Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
28 ** Green Eggs and Ham Sport 35m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
29 Camel Toe Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Don't Believe the Tripe Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Mudeye Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
30 ** Big Wednesday Sport 27m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Dont Believe the Hype Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Tripe Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
33 ** Mechanical Animals Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
? Lee's Traverse Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Project - Ben Sport Project 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Project - Zac Sport Project 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
A1 Klaus's A1 Aid 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)