A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Boronia Point 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258505, -33.602979

Description:© (aca_admin)

On the eastern side of Mt Piddington the main area is actually Ferris Cave and was once a popular destination for walkers. Access down the Hornes Pt fire trail, turn left at signs and then right again on the Ferris Cave track (straight ahead takes you to the Boronia Pt lookout which is directly above the crag). The first area you arrive at coming this way is the Ancient Mariner Buttress.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave) 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258541, -33.602901

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Klaus's A1

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

A1Aid
2 Sprouts Mexicane

Sharp Jugs,

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall.

FA: S.Bell,C.Vandereydt, 1995

23Sport 15m
3 * Sydney Rose

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

24Sport 12m
4 ** Slipping on Something Comfortable

FA: M.Baker, 1992

27Sport 25m
5 * Eureka

FA: L.Trihey,J.Smoothy, 1989

23 RSport 25m
6 * Euchre

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23Sport 22m
7 *** Lyptus

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes. Very popular. The fixed biners on the anchor are getting pretty rusty and are not in an ideal spot (they pinch the rope against the rock), so take some long draws for lowering off.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23Sport 23m, 8
8 *** Grape Hour

One of the best 25's in the mtns, enjoy!

FA: Mike Law

25Sport 22m
9 ** Grape Power

Links the start of 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'.

Starts up grape hour and breaks right to finish at the grey power anchors.

25Sport 20m
10 * Grey Power

Starts up veterans affairs breaks left and finishes at its own anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

26Sport 25m
11 ** Veteren's Affair

If you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

27Sport 20m
12 Dont Believe the Hype

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette

30Sport 25m
13 ** Anuerysm

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead.

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

27Sport 20m
14 ** Onions Original Version 26 M1Aid 18m
15 *** Onions

From the ground via the communal start the left, used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

27Sport 20m
16 ** Onions (The Mega Extended Version)

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

28Sport 25m
17 ** Mudeye

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

29Sport 20m
18 *** Don't Believe the Tripe

FA: S.Johns, 1993

29Sport 30m
19 ** Mechanical Animals

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey

33Sport 20m
20 ** Tripe

FA: M.Baker, 1992

30Sport 30m
21 Camel Toe

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

29Sport 25m
22 ** Green Eggs and Ham

Traverse. Back jump to clean.

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

28Sport 35m
23 Project - Zac

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals!

Sport Project 30m
24 Project - Ben

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Sport Project 30m
25 ** Big Wednesday

Start: In the grotto about 6m to the right of Dont Believe...

FA: M.Baker, 1994

30Sport 27m
26 Lee's Traverse

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Sport 20m
27 Offal

Walking past big wednesday about 80m

23Sport 20m
28 Open Slather

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday.

23Sport 20m

1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258161, -33.603224

Description:

Easy climbing on a short grey buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kitty Gobsmacker

Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

Start: 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

18 XTrad 12m
2 * Cowboy Clip LH Start 22Sport 10m
3 * Cowboy Clip

Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

FA: M.Portman, 1992

21Sport 10m
4 Silent Rage

Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree.

FA: A.Bull,A.Dunbar,S.Wythe, 1992

25Sport 15m
5 Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant) 23Unknown 12m
6 Mr. Curly

Start: Short juggy corner.

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

17Sport 10m
7 Diana Ross

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

21Sport 15m
8 Albatross

Start as for 'ancient mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden,M.Whitehouse, 1989

19Sport 16m
9 * Ancient Mariner

Right hand route on the mini wall, up to chain anchor on the arete.

FA: B.Junge,M.Portman, 1994

19Sport 15m
10 Creature Without a Brain

Start: Climbs just right of the arete.

FA: M.Portman., 2000

17Sport 15m
11 Squashed Parrot

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin,L.McManus, 1989

14Sport 18m
12 * Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

18Sport 12m

1.3. Lower Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

Lower cliff accessed via rap point below Ancient Mariner Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Permanent Shiver 20Unknown 20m
2 Pop the Question

This is the arete on the left end of the ledge. Its mixed so you need bolt plates and a little gear!

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke, J.Smoothy, 1989

23Sport 35m
3 Naughty Little Monkey

You need some bolt plates for this but it can be done just on the rings!

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

23Sport 30m

1.4. Alphabet Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.259655, -33.602229

Description:

This little wall is between Boronia main wall and boycetown.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Battery Chicken (A) 21Sport 15m
2 Pixie Drink (B) 19Sport 15m
3 Freakin 'n Groovin 23Sport 15m
4 * C 23Sport 25m
5 * Born Again Losers (E) 25Sport 8m
6 F 24Sport 8m
7 Gee (G) 24Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
14 Squashed Parrot Sport 18m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
17 Creature Without a Brain Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Mr. Curly Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
18 Kitty Gobsmacker Trad 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt Sport 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
19 Albatross Sport 16m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Ancient Mariner Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Pixie Drink (B) Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
20 A Permanent Shiver Unknown 20m 1.3. Lower Cliff
21 * Cowboy Clip Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Diana Ross Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Battery Chicken (A) Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
22 * Cowboy Clip LH Start Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
23 * Euchre Sport 22m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
* Eureka Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Lyptus Sport 23m, 8 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Offal Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Open Slather Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Sprouts Mexicane Sport 15m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant) Unknown 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Naughty Little Monkey Sport 30m 1.3. Lower Cliff
Pop the Question Sport 35m 1.3. Lower Cliff
* C Sport 25m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
Freakin 'n Groovin Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
24 * Sydney Rose Sport 12m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
F Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
Gee (G) Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
25 *** Grape Hour Sport 22m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Grape Power Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Silent Rage Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Born Again Losers (E) Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
26 * Grey Power Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
26 M1 ** Onions Original Version Aid 18m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
27 ** Anuerysm Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Onions Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Slipping on Something Comfortable Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Veteren's Affair Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
28 ** Green Eggs and Ham Sport 35m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Onions (The Mega Extended Version) Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
29 Camel Toe Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Don't Believe the Tripe Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Mudeye Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
30 ** Big Wednesday Sport 27m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Dont Believe the Hype Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Tripe Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
33 ** Mechanical Animals Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
? Lee's Traverse Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Project - Ben Sport Project 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Project - Zac Sport Project 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
A1 Klaus's A1 Aid 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)