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Table of contents

1. Boronia Point 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258505, -33.602979

Description:© (aca_admin)

On the eastern side of Mt Piddington the main area is actually Ferris Cave and was once a popular destination for walkers. Access down the Hornes Pt fire trail, turn left at signs and then right again on the Ferris Cave track (straight ahead takes you to the Boronia Pt lookout which is directly above the crag). The first area you arrive at coming this way is the Ancient Mariner Buttress.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave) 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258541, -33.602901

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Klaus's A1

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

AID:A1 Aid
2 Sprouts Mexicane

Sharp Jugs,

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall.

FA: S.Bell,C.Vandereydt, 1995

23 Sport 15m
3 * Sydney Rose

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

24 Sport 12m
4 ** Slipping on Something Comfortable

FA: M.Baker, 1992

27 Sport 25m
5 * Eureka

FA: L.Trihey,J.Smoothy, 1989

23 R Sport 25m
6 * Euchre

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Sport 22m
7 ** Eucalyptus?

Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Better warm up option than Lyptus and still fun.

22 Sport 20m
8 *** Lyptus

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes. Very popular. The fixed biners on the anchor are getting pretty rusty and are not in an ideal spot (they pinch the rope against the rock), so take some long draws for lowering off.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Sport 23m, 8
9 *** Grape Hour

One of the best 25's in the mtns, enjoy! Bad bolts replaced 13-12-2006, hopefully the strange position of the 4th will be fixed next rebolt. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

FA: Mike Law, 1994

25 Sport 22m, 8
10 ** Grape Power

Links the start of 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

25 Sport 20m, 8
11 * Grey Power

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. It's advisable to bring a small-med cam, or a boltplate to clip the carrot, so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too. The anchor is a bit bodgy.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

26 Sport 25m, 8
12 ** Veteran's Affair

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt most people veer back L and basically rejoin Grey Power to get past the little roof before spanning back to the R.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

27 Sport 20m
13 Dont Believe the Hype

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette

30 Sport 25m
14 *** Anuerysm

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead.

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

27 Sport 20m
15 ** Onions Original Version 26 M1 Aid 18m
16 *** Onions

From the ground via the communal start the left, used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

27 Sport 20m
17 ** Onions (Extended Dance Mix)

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

28 Sport 25m
18 ** Mudeye

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

29 Sport 20m
19 *** Don't Believe the Tripe

FA: S.Johns, 1993

29 Sport 30m
20 ** Mechanical Animals

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey

33 Sport 20m
21 ** Tripe

FA: M.Baker, 1992

30 Sport 30m
22 Camel Toe

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

29 Sport 25m
23 ** Green Eggs and Ham

Traverse. Back jump to clean.

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

28 Sport 35m
24 Project - Zac

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals! The draws have been left on it for at least 5 years, so its probably fair to say the project is open and the draws are booty.

Sport Project 30m
25 Project - Ben

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Sport Project 30m
26 ** Big Wednesday

Start: In the grotto about 6m to the right of Dont Believe...

FA: M.Baker, 1994

30 Sport 27m
27 Lee's Traverse

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Sport 20m
28 Offal

Walking past big wednesday about 80m

23 Sport 20m
29 Open Slather

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday.

23 Sport 20m

1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258161, -33.603224

Description:

Easy climbing on a short grey buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kitty Gobsmacker

Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

Start: 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

18 X Trad 12m
2 * Cowboy Clip LH Start 22 Sport 10m
3 * Cowboy Clip

Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

FA: M.Portman, 1992

21 Sport 10m
4 Silent Rage

Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree.

FA: A.Bull,A.Dunbar,S.Wythe, 1992

25 Sport 15m
5 Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant) 23 Unknown 12m
6 Mr. Curly

Start: Short juggy corner.

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

17 Sport 10m
7 Diana Ross

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

21 Sport 15m
8 Albatross

Start as for 'ancient mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden,M.Whitehouse, 1989

19 Sport 16m
9 * Ancient Mariner

Right hand route on the mini wall, up to chain anchor on the arete.

FA: B.Junge,M.Portman, 1994

19 Sport 15m
10 Creature Without a Brain

Start: Climbs just right of the arete.

FA: M.Portman., 2000

17 Sport 15m
11 Squashed Parrot

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin,L.McManus, 1989

14 Sport 18m
12 * Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

18 Sport 12m

1.3. Lower Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

Lower cliff accessed via rap point below Ancient Mariner Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Permanent Shiver 20 Unknown 20m
2 Pop the Question

This is the arete on the left end of the ledge. Its mixed so you need bolt plates and a little gear!

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke, J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Sport 35m
3 Naughty Little Monkey

You need some bolt plates for this but it can be done just on the rings!

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

23 Sport 30m

1.4. Alphabet Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.259655, -33.602229

Description:

This little wall is between Boronia main wall and boycetown.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Battery Chicken (A) 21 Sport 15m
2 Pixie Drink (B) 19 Sport 15m
3 Freakin 'n Groovin 23 Sport 15m
4 * C 23 Sport 25m
5 * Born Again Losers (E) 25 Sport 8m
6 F 24 Sport 8m
7 Gee (G) 24 Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
14 Squashed Parrot Sport 18m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
17 Creature Without a Brain Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Mr. Curly Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
18 * Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt Sport 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
18 X Kitty Gobsmacker Trad 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
19 Albatross Sport 16m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Ancient Mariner Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Pixie Drink (B) Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
20 A Permanent Shiver Unknown 20m 1.3. Lower Cliff
21 * Cowboy Clip Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Diana Ross Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Battery Chicken (A) Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
22 ** Eucalyptus? Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
* Cowboy Clip LH Start Sport 10m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
23 * Euchre Sport 22m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Lyptus Sport 23m, 8 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Offal Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Open Slather Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Sprouts Mexicane Sport 15m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant) Unknown 12m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
Naughty Little Monkey Sport 30m 1.3. Lower Cliff
Pop the Question Sport 35m 1.3. Lower Cliff
* C Sport 25m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
Freakin 'n Groovin Sport 15m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
23 R * Eureka Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
24 * Sydney Rose Sport 12m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
F Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
Gee (G) Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
25 *** Grape Hour Sport 22m, 8 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Grape Power Sport 20m, 8 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Silent Rage Sport 15m 1.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress
* Born Again Losers (E) Sport 8m 1.4. Alphabet Wall
26 * Grey Power Sport 25m, 8 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
26 M1 ** Onions Original Version Aid 18m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
27 *** Anuerysm Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Onions Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Slipping on Something Comfortable Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Veteran's Affair Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
28 ** Green Eggs and Ham Sport 35m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Onions (Extended Dance Mix) Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
29 Camel Toe Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
*** Don't Believe the Tripe Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Mudeye Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
30 ** Big Wednesday Sport 27m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Dont Believe the Hype Sport 25m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
** Tripe Sport 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
33 ** Mechanical Animals Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
? Lee's Traverse Sport 20m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Project - Ben Sport Project 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
Project - Zac Sport Project 30m 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)
A1 Klaus's A1 Aid 1.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave)