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Summary

The best winter crag in the Blueys, with tonnes of routes which bask in the sunshine from about 9am onwards and are well protected from wind and rain.

© (mjw)

Description

Enjoyable, healthy and strenuous day out. A winter wonderland. The most comprehensive sport crag in the region. Steep well-protected, and hard routes, in a wilderness area. Unfortunately the developers mostly used 8mm ringbolts with minimal recessing and the state of the bolts now leaves something to be desired. Check the bolts carefully and make your own decision about whether to do the route. Better yet, pitch in and do some rebolting, it's going to need a group effort.

© (mjw)

Access issues

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Camping also is not allowed.

© (mjw)

Approach

For Main Wall and Bull Crag the best approach is to follow the firetrail all the way to the end and descend underneath the powerlines. For all other areas it's quicker to turn left off the firetrail after about 25 minutes, at a cairn. However this path is getting quite overgrown, please bring your secaturs for some discreet pruning (yes it is a National Park but in practice Parks prefer to have one well-defined trail, rather than have trail-braiding occur which trashes more of the bush).

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Bull Crag Cliff
10
293
21m
15
1,104
15m
17
366
23m
5
18
15m
Bum Crag Cliff
14
416
14m
13
204
13m
20
110
17m

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