Bowens Creek Mostly sport climbing94 routes in crag
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Enjoyable, healthy and strenuous day out. A winter wonderland. The most comprehensive sport crag in the region. Steep well-protected, and hard routes, in a wilderness area. Unfortunately the developers mostly used 8mm ringbolts with minimal recessing and the state of the bolts now leaves something to be desired. Check the bolts carefully and make your own decision about whether to do the route. Better yet, pitch in and do some rebolting, it's going to need a group effort.© (mjw)
For Main Wall and Bull Crag the best approach is to follow the firetrail all the way to the end and descend underneath the powerlines. For all other areas it's quicker to turn left off the firetrail after about 25 minutes, at a cairn. However this path is getting quite overgrown, please bring your secaturs for some discreet pruning (yes it is a National Park but in practice Parks prefer to have one well-defined trail, rather than have trail-braiding occur which trashes more of the bush).© (mjw)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
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