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Access issues inherited from Bowens Creek

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Camping also is not allowed.


Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A nice slab leads to jug hauling.

FA: Kate & Nate

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

FA: T.Mayer, 2000

A hard crimpy start leads to nice headwall.

FA: A.Duckworth, 1999

FA: A.Duckworth, 1999

Bouldery start past first two rings. Up and out through roof, next bolt diagonally right (careful not to link onto DB after roof).

Up easy ground to lower offs. a little runout in some places if this is your grade.

Be careful with rope length.

Start: 3m right of DB.

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

Left hand route off the ledge. Shared start with RB.

FA: T.Mayer, 2001

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999


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