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Access issues inherited from Bowens Creek

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Camping also is not allowed.


Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
21 ** Mutton Poacher Sport 12m

Far left hand route.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21 Dial a Dyno Sport 7m

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21 * Nowra Sport 7m

FA: M.Pircher, 1998


FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21 ** Mr Pink Sport 15m

Great climbing.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1997

26 * Almost Almost Sport 15m

FA: F.Yule, 1997

22 ** Bustin Dustin Sport 15m

FA: M.Wilson, 1997

22 * Bustin the gate Unknown 20m

Link-up. Up Bustin Dustin into the 3rd bolt on Shut the Gate. Finish as for STG.

22 ** Shut the Gate Sport 15m

FA: C.Hale, 1997

27 ** Fuel My Fire Sport 12m

The steep headwall above StG. A good climb that packs a lot of climbing into such a short distance. You will need to extend a couple of the draws on StG and most of the draws on FmF in order to reduce the rope drag. Both hands over the top to claim victory.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25 * Pretty Fly Sport 12m

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20 ** Kraut Pleaser Sport 15m, 6

Best warm up here.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999


Left hand varient of the BfO.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

26 *** The Boy From Oz Sport 20m

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

24 * Fox Force Five Sport 15m

FA: M.Pircher, 1999


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