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The left side of this crag gets sun an hour earlier than the Main Wall warmups, so the 23s & 24s here might be a better option for warming up if its too cold in the shade when you arrive.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Bowens Creek

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Camping also is not allowed.



The first area you come to if taking the cairned track on the left of the fire trail 25mins from the steel gate.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Far left climb.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

FA: S.Cody, 1999

FA: F.Leese, 1999

FA: F.Leese, 1999

Shares start with SS.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

2-3m L of the arete.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

Climbs THE arete, on the left side.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

3m R of the arete.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

About 6m R of the arete, up the R side of the somewhat chossy-looking patchy white rock.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

The seam 3m L of HYC.

FA: F.Leese, 2001

The deepest groove in this wall, about 10m R of the arete. The burly heel-hook mantle start onto the shelf might not be the best warmup. It can seep a bit, but the climbing is good and it has some of the most comfy megabuckets at Bowens.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

Far right route.

FA: S.Cody, 1999


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