A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bowens Creek 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.369807, -33.543827

Unique Features And Strengths:© (mjw)

The best winter crag in the Blueys, with tonnes of routes which bask in the sunshine from about 9am onwards and are well protected from wind and rain.

Description:© (mjw)

Enjoyable, healthy and strenuous day out. A winter wonderland. The most comprehensive sport crag in the region. Steep well-protected, and hard routes, in a wilderness area. Unfortunately the developers mostly used 8mm ringbolts with minimal recessing and the state of the bolts now leaves something to be desired. Check the bolts carefully and make your own decision about whether to do the route. Better yet, pitch in and do some rebolting, it's going to need a group effort.

Access Issues:© (mjw)

This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Camping also is not allowed.

Approach:© (mjw)

For Main Wall and Bull Crag the best approach is to follow the firetrail all the way to the end and descend underneath the powerlines. For all other areas it's quicker to turn left off the firetrail after about 25 minutes, at a cairn. However this path is getting quite overgrown, please bring your secaturs for some discreet pruning (yes it is a National Park but in practice Parks prefer to have one well-defined trail, rather than have trail-braiding occur which trashes more of the bush).

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Bull Crag 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.373809, -33.540704

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Something for Kate

FA: Kate and Nate

17Unknown 22m
2 * Bull Dozer

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20Sport 20m
3 * Zulu Dawn

FA: T.Mayer, 2000

22Sport 25m
4 ** Walter Mitty

FA: A.Duckworth, 1999

19Sport 24m
5 Daydream Believer

FA: A.Duckworth, 1999

20Sport 24m
6 * Bulls Eye / Unknown

Bouldery start past first two rings. Up and out through roof, next bolt diagonally right (careful not to link onto DB after roof).

Up easy ground to lower offs. a little runout in some places if this is your grade.

careful with rope length.

Start: 3m right of DB.

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2008

20Unknown 26m
7 * Born to be Wild

Left hand route off the ledge. Shared start with RB.

FA: T.Mayer, 2001

24Sport 18m
8 ** Red Bull

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25Sport 18m
9 ** Bull Roarer

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27Sport 20m
10 * Rutting Season

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27Sport 15m

1.2. Main Wall Left 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.372113, -33.543176

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mutton Poacher

Far left hand route.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21Sport 12m
2 Dial a Dyno

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21Sport 7m
3 Nowra

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

21Sport 7m
4 The Tea-Ladies from NATO

FA: M.Pircher, 1998

23Sport 15m
5 ** Mr Pink

Great climbing.

FA: K.McKenzie, 1997

21Sport 15m
6 * Almost Almost

FA: F.Yule, 1997

26Sport 15m
7 * Bustin Dustin

FA: M.Wilson, 1997

22Sport 15m
8 Bustin the gate 22Unknown 20m
9 * Shut the Gate

FA: C.Hale, 1997

22Sport 15m
10 ** Fuel My Fire

The steep headwall above StG. A good climb that packs a lot of climbing into such a short distance. You will need to extend a couple of the draws on StG and most of the draws on FmF in order to reduce the rope drag. Both hands over the top to claim victory.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27Sport 12m
11 Pretty Fly

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25Sport 12m
12 * Kraut Pleaser

Best warm up here.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20Sport 15m
13 The Brute from the Balkans

Left hand varient of the BfO.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 30m
14 *** The Boy From Oz

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

26Sport 20m
15 * Fox Force Five

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

24Sport 15m

1.3. Main Wall Centre 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.371753, -33.543487

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Hoofmeister Blue

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 20m
2 ** Navel Aviator

The bolts are not great but there's plenty extra.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

27Sport 20m
3 *** Lloyd of the Rings

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

27Sport 25m
4 *** 97% Fat-Free

PLEASE CONTRIBUTE TO REBOLTING. The horribly loose second bolt was replaced August 2013, and the third bolt a few years earlier, but bolts 1, 4 and 5 are the originals so probably also suspect. The death clip-n-go biners on the anchors have been removed.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

25Sport 20m
5 Fat free extension Project (Justin) / Project

Continuation of FF.

FA: Justin, 2000

projectUnknown
6 ** The Cripple Pitch

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

26Sport 20m
7 ** Full Cream

Start up TCP then left at big jug shared by FF.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

30Sport 25m
8 ** The Blonde Gift

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25Sport 20m
9 Broken Blonde Gift

since the crux hold further disintegrated pull on the draw......

23 A0Sport 25m
10 * Cup Cake

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

27Sport 27m
11 *** Beef Cake

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

25Sport 27m
12 ** Itinerate Immigrants

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

24Sport 25m
13 ** Wish It Was Hard

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 25m
14 ** Almost

FA: F.Yule, 1997

26Sport 25m
15 ** Visibly Aroused

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25Sport 20m
16 ** The Big Bang Is On

Start from the ground!

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

26Sport 25m
17 ** Feeling Clucky Bitch?

Start from the ground!

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25Sport 25m

1.4. Main Wall Right 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.371156, -33.543718

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Baboon Banquet!! / Project (Steve)

boulder problem start, to rightward traverse, then radical wall of exciting gymnastic moves lead to a fiesty finish!! classic!!!

Start: begin off the pile of rocks above the ledge Left of chimp chowder.

FA: vince day, 2006

33Sport 16m
2 ** Chimp Chowder

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 15m
3 * Legendary Stuff

The seam.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

28Sport 15m
4 Project (Martin) projectUnknown
5 Ape Drape 24Unknown 15m

1.5. Bum Crag 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.369477, -33.543957

Description:

The orange slab between Main Wall and Shopping Crag, capped by a big roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bums Away

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 15m
2 * Bum Crack

Up crack with good gear, traverse through roof and meet lowers off on 'Lard Arse'. Second to clean.

Start: In corner between BA and LA

FA: Zack Wasson? No no no, this (shit) route was done in the 90s, as mentioned in the old Pircher/Carter guides., 2009

16Trad 18m
3 Number 51

The corner on the L end of the Bum Wall slab - alluded to in Pircher/Carter guide. Trad gear. Nice move round the little roof (13), then place high gear for the crux traverse R to the DRB on Lard Arse.

FA: Will Monks, Greg Andrews, 1999

16Trad 18m
4 Lard Arse

The left hand route on the slab.

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

19Sport 15m
5 ** Sludge Bottom

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

21Sport 15m
6 Icky Bum

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

20Sport 18m
7 Trouser Snake

FA: F.Leese, 2001

23Sport 15m
8 * Underpants Jousting

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

22Sport 12m
9 ** Cody's Crystals

FA: lloyd w

25Sport 12m
10 Lloaded Scrotum

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

24Sport 12m
11 Nasty When Cornered

FA: S.Cody, 1999

18Sport 10m
12 * Chastity Bolt

FA: A.Aardema,M.Brueren, 2001

21Sport 12m
13 Bitter Harvest

FA: S.Cody, 1999

20Sport 12m
14 Spawn of Sean

FA: lloyd w

24Sport 12m

1.6. Shopping Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.367694, -33.545147

Description:© (mjw)

The left side of this crag gets sun an hour earlier than the Main Wall warmups, so the 23s & 24s here might be a better option for warming up if its too cold in the shade when you arrive.

Approach:© (mjw)

The first area you come to if taking the cairned track on the left of the fire trail 25mins from the steel gate.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Five Fingered Discount

Far left climb.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

24Sport 11m
2 * Ram Raid

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24Sport 12m
3 ** Window Shopping

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23Sport 12m
4 * Shopping Spree

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23Sport 13m
5 * Retail Therapy

Shares start with SS.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

24Sport 14m
6 ** Predatory Pricing

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

25Sport 15m
7 ** Plastic Surgery Boutique

2-3m L of the arete.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

27Sport 15m
8 ** Short Changed

Climbs THE arete, on the left side.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

25Sport 15m
9 * Transaction Declined

3m R of the arete.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

26Sport 15m
10 ** Express Checkout

About 6m R of the arete, up the R side of the somewhat chossy-looking patchy white rock.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23Sport 13m
11 * No Refunds

The seam 3m L of HYC.

FA: F.Leese, 2001

25Sport 15m
12 * Half Yearly Clearance

The deepest groove in this wall, about 10m R of the arete. The burly heel-hook mantle start onto the shelf might not be the best warmup. It can seep a bit, but the climbing is good and it has some of the most comfy megabuckets at Bowens.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

20Sport 11m
13 Line of Credit

Far right route.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

21Sport 12m

1.7. Aliens' Domain 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.365400, -33.545565

Approach:© (mjw)

Scramble down below 'Shopping Wall', then left (facing out)until you come to the Tyrollian. Cross the creek, then up to cliffline. Head around to the right (facing in) along the broken cliff line until you come to the Wall. One hour walk from car to crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 First Contact

FA: M.Turnbull, 1999

23Sport 15m
2 * Superior Species

FA: M.Turnbull, 1999

23Sport 15m
3 ** It Came From Outta Uranus

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

25Sport 15m
4 * The Alien Spat Her Out

FA: M.Turnbull, 1999

26Sport 15m
5 * Primitive Life Form

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

25Sport 15m
6 ** Gastro Girl

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

27Sport 15m
7 ** The Alienateher

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

29Sport 15m
8 Bantha Fodder

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

24Sport 18m
9 Outer Space

Batman start!

FA: S.Bell, 2000

21Sport 15m
10 ** Austri-Alien

Batman start!

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

24Sport 23m
11 Orbital Decay

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

28Sport 23m
12 Open Project projectUnknown
13 ** Visit Venus

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

28Sport 20m
14 *** Pigs in Space

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

30Sport 17m
15 *** Freak on a Leash

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

27Sport 15m
16 ** Interstellar Fella

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

26Sport 13m
17 * Swine Trek

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

25Sport 12m
18 Mars Needs Women

FA: S.Grkovic, 2000

25Sport 12m
19 ** Inter Galactic Spastic 32Unknown 25m
20 Mission To Mars

FA: Monique Forestier

31Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
16 * Bum Crack Trad 18m 1.5. Bum Crag
Number 51 Trad 18m 1.5. Bum Crag
17 Something for Kate Unknown 22m 1.1. Bull Crag
18 Nasty When Cornered Sport 10m 1.5. Bum Crag
19 ** Walter Mitty Sport 24m 1.1. Bull Crag
Lard Arse Sport 15m 1.5. Bum Crag
20 * Bull Dozer Sport 20m 1.1. Bull Crag
* Bulls Eye Unknown 26m 1.1. Bull Crag
Daydream Believer Sport 24m 1.1. Bull Crag
* Kraut Pleaser Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
Bitter Harvest Sport 12m 1.5. Bum Crag
Icky Bum Sport 18m 1.5. Bum Crag
* Half Yearly Clearance Sport 11m 1.6. Shopping Wall
21 Dial a Dyno Sport 7m 1.2. Main Wall Left
** Mr Pink Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
* Mutton Poacher Sport 12m 1.2. Main Wall Left
Nowra Sport 7m 1.2. Main Wall Left
* Chastity Bolt Sport 12m 1.5. Bum Crag
** Sludge Bottom Sport 15m 1.5. Bum Crag
Line of Credit Sport 12m 1.6. Shopping Wall
Outer Space Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
22 * Zulu Dawn Sport 25m 1.1. Bull Crag
* Bustin Dustin Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
Bustin the gate Unknown 20m 1.2. Main Wall Left
* Shut the Gate Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
* Underpants Jousting Sport 12m 1.5. Bum Crag
23 The Tea-Ladies from NATO Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
Trouser Snake Sport 15m 1.5. Bum Crag
** Express Checkout Sport 13m 1.6. Shopping Wall
* Shopping Spree Sport 13m 1.6. Shopping Wall
** Window Shopping Sport 12m 1.6. Shopping Wall
First Contact Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
* Superior Species Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
23 A0 Broken Blonde Gift Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
24 * Born to be Wild Sport 18m 1.1. Bull Crag
* Fox Force Five Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
** Itinerate Immigrants Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
Ape Drape Unknown 15m 1.4. Main Wall Right
Lloaded Scrotum Sport 12m 1.5. Bum Crag
Spawn of Sean Sport 12m 1.5. Bum Crag
* Five Fingered Discount Sport 11m 1.6. Shopping Wall
* Ram Raid Sport 12m 1.6. Shopping Wall
* Retail Therapy Sport 14m 1.6. Shopping Wall
** Austri-Alien Sport 23m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
Bantha Fodder Sport 18m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
25 ** Red Bull Sport 18m 1.1. Bull Crag
Pretty Fly Sport 12m 1.2. Main Wall Left
*** 97% Fat-Free Sport 20m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
*** Beef Cake Sport 27m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Feeling Clucky Bitch? Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** The Blonde Gift Sport 20m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Visibly Aroused Sport 20m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Cody's Crystals Sport 12m 1.5. Bum Crag
* No Refunds Sport 15m 1.6. Shopping Wall
** Predatory Pricing Sport 15m 1.6. Shopping Wall
** Short Changed Sport 15m 1.6. Shopping Wall
** It Came From Outta Uranus Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
Mars Needs Women Sport 12m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
* Primitive Life Form Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
* Swine Trek Sport 12m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
26 * Almost Almost Sport 15m 1.2. Main Wall Left
*** The Boy From Oz Sport 20m 1.2. Main Wall Left
** Almost Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** The Big Bang Is On Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** The Cripple Pitch Sport 20m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Wish It Was Hard Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Chimp Chowder Sport 15m 1.4. Main Wall Right
* Bums Away Sport 15m 1.5. Bum Crag
* Transaction Declined Sport 15m 1.6. Shopping Wall
** Interstellar Fella Sport 13m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
* The Alien Spat Her Out Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
27 ** Bull Roarer Sport 20m 1.1. Bull Crag
* Rutting Season Sport 15m 1.1. Bull Crag
** Fuel My Fire Sport 12m 1.2. Main Wall Left
* Cup Cake Sport 27m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
*** Lloyd of the Rings Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Navel Aviator Sport 20m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
** Plastic Surgery Boutique Sport 15m 1.6. Shopping Wall
*** Freak on a Leash Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
** Gastro Girl Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
28 The Brute from the Balkans Sport 30m 1.2. Main Wall Left
*** Hoofmeister Blue Sport 20m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
* Legendary Stuff Sport 15m 1.4. Main Wall Right
Orbital Decay Sport 23m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
** Visit Venus Sport 20m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
29 ** The Alienateher Sport 15m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
30 ** Full Cream Sport 25m 1.3. Main Wall Centre
*** Pigs in Space Sport 17m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
31 Mission To Mars Unknown 1.7. Aliens' Domain
32 ** Inter Galactic Spastic Unknown 25m 1.7. Aliens' Domain
33 *** Baboon Banquet!! Sport 16m 1.4. Main Wall Right
project Fat free extension Project (Justin) Unknown 1.3. Main Wall Centre
Project (Martin) Unknown 1.4. Main Wall Right
Open Project Unknown 1.7. Aliens' Domain