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Table of contents

1. Celebrity Crag 14 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.271239, -33.627370

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Park at the west end of Burton St Blackheath. Follow the bushwalkers' trail, signposted to Porters Pass, for 10 minutes down into a ferny creek. Rock Hudson is the overhang cliff on the other (north) side of the creek, immediately above the track. To get to Jimmy Cliff where the most popular climbs are, follow the walker's trail across the creek (ignore the "lost climbers" trail which stays on the left/south side of the creek, the first bit is muddy and sketchy), walk downstream beneath Rock Hudson for 30m, then leave the bushwalkers' trail and cross back over to the left/south side of the creek. The climbers' path leads another 30m downstream to the ledge/slot/crawl (further details below).

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Rehab Boulder

The obvious boulder on the right hand side of the track just after you cross the creek (opposite side to the stairs).

1 * Rehab

Start at far right end of the boulder, traverse left to opposite end (at tree). Stays mid/low. 22 moves.

FA: Christopher Welsh, 1999

V3 Boulder

Rock Hudson

2 ** 0055 Hot Wet Action

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23 Sport 15m
3 * Truly Madly Deeply Steeply

FA: S. Steward, 1995

21 Sport 15m
4 ** Geek Heathen

FA: J. Clark, 1996

23 Sport 15m

Jimmy Cliff

The following 7 climbs are on Jimmy Cliff which is found by walking carefully around the path and to the left via a narrow cut-out ledge. Given the height of the drop below, it's worth taking your pack off so it doesn't hit the roof of the low slot and throw you off balance. There is a ringbolt at each end to allow you to set up a 10m safety line if you wish. The first four routes get sun from about 1pm, but the other three routes are 10m further right amongst the trees, and are well shaded by the foliage all afternoon.

5 ** Mr Christmas Poo

FA: J. Clark, 1995

20 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Butt Nuggets

Lower-offs added 2004

FA: J. Kurko, 1995

19 Sport 15m
7 * Johnny's Jalopies

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18 Sport 15m, 7
8 Mr Scumbag

WARNING: On 31/03/15, this climb had red tape on the first bolt and a "LOOSE ANCHORS" warning written in chalk at the base.

FA: C. Hale, 1995

18 Sport 15m
9 Anal Leakage

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

19 Sport 12m
10 * Hark! The ..

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

20 Sport 12m
11 * Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer

FA: M. Pircher, 1996

23 Sport 12m

Cliff Richard

12 ** Good but Fucking

FA: S. Steward, 1995

20 Sport 15m
13 ** Blah Blah Woof Woof

FA: S. Steward, 1995

23 Sport 15m
14 Project (Frey) project Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
18 * Johnny's Jalopies Sport 15m, 7
Mr Scumbag Sport 15m
19 Anal Leakage Sport 12m
* Butt Nuggets Sport 15m
20 ** Good but Fucking Sport 15m
* Hark! The .. Sport 12m
** Mr Christmas Poo Sport 15m
21 * Truly Madly Deeply Steeply Sport 15m
V3 * Rehab Boulder
23 ** 0055 Hot Wet Action Sport 15m
** Blah Blah Woof Woof Sport 15m
** Geek Heathen Sport 15m
* Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer Sport 12m
project Project (Frey) Unknown