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Description

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Watch It Grow Sport 10m

FA: J.Clark, 1997

2
26 ** Crash Bandicoot Sport 10m

FA: C.Simpson, 1999

3
Project Sport 10m

FA: Open, 2000

4
24 * No More Growth Sport 10m

FA: C.Hale, 1997

5
22 ** Two Little Boys Sport 18m

Needs rebolting.

FA: Pommies, 1992

6
22 * Woodpecker Sport 18m

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

7
23 Underwater Love Sport 18m

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

8

Start as for 'Underwater Love' then left.

FA: S.Bell, 2005

9
22 Something Void Trad 20m

Requires a #4 Friend. Scary.

FA: G.Fieg, 1991