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Description

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

© (aca_admin)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (aca_admin)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 * Jaws Sport 15m, 4

Although it is not a particularly pleasant climb, it is the easiest warm-up here abouts. Considered solid at the grade, but soloed by stronger climbers. Rebolted 2004

FA: Frey Yule

2
23 Off the Lip Sport 15m

FA: S. Richardson, F. Yule, 1992

3
25 *** Rubber Lover Sport 20m, 5

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

4

Extension to Rubber Lover.

I hear you say extension to RL? 'Impossible', but one man had the curry to stand against tradition.

Start: Start as for RL.

FA: rowan druce., 2004

5
30 * Microwave Sport 25m

Another wave wall classic. Apparently used to be 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

FA: M. Baker, 1992

6
32 ** Staring At The Sea Sport 25m

Finish as for 'Tsunami', not Tugboat.

Start: Start as for 'Microwave'.

FA: G. Miller, 1998

7
31 ** Point Break Sport 20m

3m L of Microwave to join at its flake.

FA: L. Cossey, 2000

8
32 *** Tug Boat Trad 15m

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Starin at the Sea at the rest hole. Form there bust straight up instead of going left into 'Tsunami', chug out the roof and finish at the top.

FA: zac vertrees, 2006

9
29 *** Tsunami Sport 25m, 8

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

10

Radness start to 'Tsunami'.

Start: Start just right of Smoked Muscles and boulder you way into the first hard bit of 'Tsunami'.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey. Done on my birthday., 2004

11
26 ** Smoked Mussels Sport 12m, 4

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of 'Tsunami' then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

FA: Mark Baker

12

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2004

13
28 ** Sea Air Sport 10m

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts.

FA: M. Baker, 1997

14
24 ** Jaqueline Hyde Sport 15m, 6

Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

15
26 * Puddles Sport 15m

Extention of Jaqueline Hyde

FA: Toby Benham

16
23 *** Split Wave Sport 20m

Possibly the most popular route at the crag. Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof.

FA: D. Noble, 1990

17
24 * Shore Break Sport 15m

Punchy crimping to ledge then steep and tricky.

Start: Start just L of SW.

FA: W. Payton, 1992

18
25 * Cold Water Classic Sport 15m

FA: W. Payton, 1992

19
21 X Hang Five Sport 15m, 5

This is a chop route until the shit bolts are replaced.

FA: M. Pircher, Z. Vertees, 1997

20
24 * The Tube Sport 12m

The groovy traverse on the far left side of wave wall. Good name.

FA: K. Klein, W. Payton, 1992

21
27 ** Salubrious Sewerage Sport 10m

Start: About 15m L of 'The Tube'.

FA: M. Adams, S. Bell, 1997