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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Dr Foopsickle Sport 8m

Rebolted 2004

Short n sweet

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1988

2
29 ** Levitation Sport 10m

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

FA: J.Scarborough, 2001

3
33 *** Moonshadow Sport 20m

Start: up levitation then move rightwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

FA: Garth Miller

4
32 *** Search and Destroy Sport 10m

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

FA: Lee Cossey

5

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

FA: ben cossey., 2006

6
30 ** Inertia Sport 10m

FA: L.Cossey, 2001

7
** Project Sport 12m

FA: P.Sage, 2000

8
27 * White Linen Sport 14m

Rebolted 2004. Apparently its only 27 if you dont clip the third bolt! Not climbed for few years because of this, but a great cimb never the less! There is a slight right hand varient that AVOIDS the crux and the best moves which makes the climb a 'comfortable' 26! What stupidity!!

FA: M. Baker, K. Carrigan, 1992

9
24 ** NLJ Sport 10m

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1998

The next three routes start about 25m L of White Linen and share the same start.

10
27 *** Better than Nothing Sport 15m

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26 for ever until the GYM junkies arrived!

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

FA: M. Baker, 1998

11
29 ** Tutu-sullied Flesh Sport 15m

A good fun gymnastic route by all accounts.

Start: Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of the first routes in this area.

FA: S. Johns, 1992

12
30 ** Temptation Sport 15m

Hard stuff.

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh.

FA: L. Cossey, 2002

13

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

14
26 Nappies Patrique? Sport 10m

FA: M. Law, 1995