Ruddy Norry

On carrots, take brackets. They're mostly glue-ins, though. It's a good warm up.

Start: Start as for 'Ratcat'.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1988

Ratcat

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall.

Start: Start 4m right of the arete, at the obvious undercut mantle on the mushroomy thing.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

Chase the Lady

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous.

Start: Start 2m R of the EiA arete.

FA: M.Radtke, J.Smoothy, 1988

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of chase the lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

Ernest in Africa

Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought. Not taking away anything from the first ascentionist, of course. Rebolted 2004

Start: Start at the square arete on the R side of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

Nev Herrod

Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler,M.Law, 1988

Mostly Harmless

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

A decent bit of climbing.

Start: Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1988

Iona Hairy Sausage (link-up)

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too :)GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

Madge McDonald

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at it's best.

FA: M. Baker, S. Wythe, 1992

Trix Roughly

Good. One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury, J. Smoothy, 1990

Essentially Trix

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

Bare Essentials

A bit of monkeying around.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

Barely August / Barely August (Link-Up)

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

August 1914

Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

Start: Start just R of the two wooden posts.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

Better than Life

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists.

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

Bernie Loves Tofu

As for 'Apraxia', almost to it's 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

Apraxia

Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

Start: Start just R of Padington.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

???

Padington

Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

Start: Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block).

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

The short right-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. Clip'n'go anchor.

Start: This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

Take the gut busting out of 'Acceptably Hairy' and 'Acceptably Cosmic', - quite a lovly warm-up - NOT. Start AH and into the top of AC.

cute. A 'potentially' very dangerous route if you are only climbing 22! RUBBISH!!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

The first climb on the cliff. Rebolted 2004.

Start: This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law,

FA: M.Stacey,J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1988

A short and not particularly nice route. Beware the name.

Start: Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

Unplugged

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

Touch and Go

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

Hello, Leafy Green

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

Bowl of Milk

The left hand line in this fiesty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt ancor.Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006