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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
22 ** Ruddy Norry Sport 14m, 4

On carrots, take brackets. They're mostly glue-ins, though. It's a good warm up.

Start: Start as for 'Ratcat'.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1988

2
24 R ** Ratcat Sport 14m

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall.

Start: Start 4m right of the arete, at the obvious undercut mantle on the mushroomy thing.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

3
23 ** Chase the Lady Sport 14m, 5

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous.

Start: Start 2m R of the EiA arete.

FA: M.Radtke & J.Smoothy, 1988

4
20 to 21 * Ernest Lady (linkup) Sport 14m, 4

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of Chase the Lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

5
25 * Ernest in Africa Sport 12m

The square arete on the R side of the main wall. Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

6
23 ** Nev Herrod Sport 12m, 5

Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall. Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

FA: S.Butler & M.Law, 1988

7
29 ** Mostly Harmless Sport 12m

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

8
24 * Iona Sport 12m

Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake. At the top, scamper left and lower from Madge's anchor.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1988

9

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

10
25 *** Madge McDonald Sport 12m, 7

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.

FA: M. Baker & S. Wythe, 1992

11
26 *** Trix Roughly Sport 12m, 5

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury & J. Smoothy, 1990

12

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

13
26 ** Bare Essentials Sport 12m

A bit of monkeying around. The glue is cracked all the way around the first bolt.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

14

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

15
29 ** August 1914 Sport 12m

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

16
26 ** 1914 Sport 12m

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

17
32 *** Better than Life Sport 12m

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

18

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

19

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

20

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

21

Start as for 'Apraxia'. Break out R at the earliest opportunity via a sideways dyno. From there, more easily sideways past a few bolts to anchors up and R. Backjump.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

22
28 ** Bernie Loves Tofu Sport 18m, 4

As for 'Apraxia', almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

23
25 ** Apraxia Sport 14m, 5

Start just R of Padington. Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

24

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

25
25 ** Padington Sport 12m

Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block). Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

26
25 * Horrace Herod Sport 12m

Start just R of the boulder. The short right-facing corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

27
23 * Hairy Horrace Sport 12m

This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall. Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. Clip'n'go anchor.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

28
23 * Acceptably Hairy Sport 12m

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

29

Links AH into the top of AC. Some say a great warm up, others... don't. You decide!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

30
23 * Acceptably Cosmic Sport 10m

The first climb on the cliff. This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law

FA: M.Stacey, J.Smoothy & M.Law, 1988

31
24 The Disintegrator Sport 7m

Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner. The name is appropriate; smart belayers stand to one side.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

32
27 * Unplugged Sport 8m

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

33
27 * Touch and Go Sport 10m

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

34
34 Anal Palm Sport 10m

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

35
project Project (Saxon) Unknown
36
23 R ** Hello, Leafy Green Sport 7m

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

37
33 *** Bowl of Milk Sport 6m

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

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