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Description

80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 ** Intrepid Hamster Sport 7m

3 tip tearing boulder problems.

FA: N.Marshal, 1997

2
28 R ** Nightmare Merchant Trad 7m

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible.

Start: Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

FA: B.Cossey, 2002

3
18 Liquid Snails Sport 12m
4
19 * Billy Snails Sport 15m

Links the start of Liquid snails into Billy Bunter. Heel hook start.

5
4 ** Dod the Liquid Bunter Unknown 12m
6
18 R Stephen Grunter Sport 10m, 5

Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: J.Dodson, 2001

7
19 * Billy Bunter Sport 15m, 5

Has been rebolted (thanks!). However, the non-ideal positions of the bolts were not rectified; extenders recommended.

Start: Start off the boulder just R of 'Alpha Leather'.

FA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy & C. Cuthbertson, 1988

8
23 * Squid Munching Sport 12m

Stick clip first bolt - you can reach it off the boulder. Short boulder problem to hamstring stretching on jugs.

FA: M.Warren, 2002

9
31 ** Alpha Leather Sport 15m

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone.

Start: Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

FA: Garth Miller

10
24 ** Junket Pumper Sport 15m

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all. Start under the line with the biggest holds, just right of the sawn log.

FA: M. Stacey & J. Smoothy, 1988

12
23 ** Glad Ingram Sport 15m, 8

Start up JP for a couple of bolts, then span across left to get established on the arete. Then up. Chain anchor over the top.

FA: M. Stacey & J. Smoothy, 1988

13
27 *** Wrong Movements Sport 20m, 7

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite.

Start: Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1998

14
27 *** Brutal Movements Sport 25m

As for 'Wrong Movements'. Once you've done the low crux, traverse directly left along the break to big rest below the steepness. Up, followed by more left traversing to final delicious corner-crack feature.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

15
27 Brutally Yours Sport 18m
16
17
31 ** Larger Than Life Sport 40m

Up WM for 3 bolts, then left as for BM, then keep going left for miles ... traverse, traverse, traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

18
29 *** Miniskirt Sport 35m

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Cross Larger than Life where it breaches the roof. Continue for several more meters before busting through the roof and leftward up the headwall to double rings.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

19

FA: Lawry Dermody, 2007

20
29 ** Roof Raider Sport 20m

Cruise to a horrendous boulder problem.

Start: As for the preceding route.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

21

Start: If you do the next 2 routes please take care of the vegetation and use the plank. They are both batman starts!

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

Activity

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