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A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in. Has been erased?

FA: Gavin Portier

Keep off the 'Arete'.

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser' and finish as for "Hip Shake Jerk' Apparently you have to avoid the chip to earn the grade.

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly up to finish as for HSJ.

FA: G Weigand, 2000

25M0. Start as above, pulling on first bolt. Can also be climbed free at 26.

FA: M. Stacey, 1988

24M0, pulling on the first bolt to reach high jug.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

The all free version.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

Start: Batman.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

Start: Batman. As for 'Jug Addiction'.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

Start: Batman.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

You actually get a 'grade' for the batman! 'Excellent' - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

Start: Batman.

FA: Mitch Warren

Start: Batman.

FA: C.Simpson, 1998


Check out what is happening in Hip Shake Jerk Area.