Ascents of White Linen

went right at the crux, still taking 27, cry about it

Short session after work, banned from even looking right at the top supposedly, left is the OG.

1. Beta lap, been a while, skipped the start, no falls.

2. First red point, fell after the second crux, out of steam.

3. Fell second crux on last move, didn’t go far enough with left hand.

4. Probably a bit rushed, not that much rest, fell after the crux AGAIN! Hit the jug by the last clip with only 3 fingers and 1 pad.

It’ll go next time!!

Found a beta which works in the crux this time around, just need to link the first few moves, psyched

Skipped lower crux keen on warming up and testing overworked, under rested fingers. Second crux went first try so naturally spent ages trying to work out what the heck I did to make it work. Upper steepness held no unpleasant surprises.

Faced reality and committed to working the first crux dynamically, unexpectedly both sticking the move and enjoying it too.

Try not to stand in the oozing muddy goop challenge (difficulty: impossible). Lower crux dialled and repeatable.

Training goal is to develop self-control and not obliterate my body in the week before a mountains trip.

Next session to focus first on deciding on which of ~3 betas to use for the second crux before attempting to link both.

Thought it might go, it did not...

Close off the weekend off.

Figured out a way to do it… after about 25 attempts at the crux. 😂 Too cooked for the send but could go in another sesh or two.

Keen to jump back on this! Skin destroying and punchy with some bouldery moves throughout the climb.

Punchy

Muy buenas condiciones (o sea que no estaba mojada) pero la intenté ya muy cansado en el día, a la próxima.

Los agarres del crux estaban mojados…

Cool moves, not as crazy hard as I thought, but just feels sharp with dead fingers and no skin. Maybe goal for next bluies trip

Just one bolt to bolt lap because almost everything on Wave Wall was busy! Feasible longer term project, all the moves went again quickly but still ripped a good hole in my finger on the starting dead point, despite not slipping off it !

Worked the crux beta properly nice sequence, still feels distant but nice to work through

Cool, could actually pull the starting moves, just need to commit to the full cut as a shorty.

Top sequence not too bad either, maybe only 2-3 goes to sort the moves. Beware the hollow flake jug next to the anchor, wouldn’t want to rip that off.

Day 2 about 1 year later. The bottom crux is done. Got to the middle of the top crux. Progress

A lot of work to do here hehe Need to get the first move, and continue working on the left hand side crux beta. Feels like a long term project.

Couple false starts catching the sloper and not feeling "on", third time was the charm! Psyched!

Warm-up pulling past the first big move and sitting lots. Good conditions today

Going for the triple crown. Hand on the jug, just didn't latch it properly. Changed the left foot I use for the big move to a bigger, slightly higher dish/pocket, means I can keep the foot on when I catch the jug. Sloper was an actual jug this lap!

Fell hitting the sloper. Lowered and tried again, fell hitting it again. Didn't feel like banging my head against that move all session so I went to clean the route and climbed clean from the sloper to the top. How's that for overlapping halves.

beta lap then send, not sure if its easy because im more of a boulderer or its just easy, I would say 26

The never ending project! Finally went down after punting the crux gazillion times. Thanks to the countless belayers and to Ali for the new beta that made the send possible!

Awesome climb, I think I ended up going through the 26 variant, but still pretty cool. Added to the list

4th session send. Great fun.

Had one attempt where I reached the crux. Other goes involved ripping flappers on the start crux and getting frustrated that the moves felt harder than 2 days ago. Victim of my own expectations - keen to give it a week or so and come back.

Bit wild and thrashy down low, but got close to doing the crux on link

Even closer to doing the crux. Felt a tad more relaxed on the slopey jug "rest". Also a bit better lower down, still find it hard to match/move off the big hold after the pocket bump. Figured out I prefer a heel for the flake move

Way too dark, fell on the first crux

Let the proj begin. Coming back with fresh fingers soon ☺️

A few tries, no sends. Wet and slippy in the middle. Got the moves all sorted, just need to be fresh

Bit of a one-move wonder. Committed to the wrong beta on redpoint burn, then found the easy way of doing the crux after falling. Will go easy.

Not sure about this "dirty linen" variant. I couldn't find any right-hand way to avoid the crux. Maybe sit on heelhook, then use the slopey pocket... but that's not even a variant, and feels harder. Definitely doesn't deserve a new name