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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kyle Dunsire Lee Cujes Mark Ashmore Will Monks David O'Donnell Mark Betts Julian Saunders Matt Tranter Lauren Chandler

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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Table of contents

1. Centennial Glen 117 routes in Crag

1 Hip Shake Jerk Area, 2 Junket Pumper Area, 3 Main Wall, 4 White Linen Wall, 5 Wave Wall, 6 Woodpecker Wall
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274659, -33.636382

Description:

The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (secretary)

The crag is easily accessed by two methods:

  1. Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.

(2) Park in the carpark at the end of 'Centennial Glen' Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at 'Main Wall', 'White Linen', 'Search and Destroy', 'Wave Wall' or 'Woodpecker Wall'. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for 'Junket Pumper' and 'Hip Shake Jerk' sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport,? and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.274149, -33.637461

Description:© (secretary)

A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 ** Limp Mode

Start: Batman.

FA: C.Simpson, 1998

26
Sport 15m
Mark Ashmore 7 years ago

1st move dirty&hard, 2nd move dirty, thats enough ...bail

2 ** Turn Your Money Green

You actually get a 'grade' for the batman! 'Excellent' - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

Start: Batman.

FA: Mitch Warren,

25
Sport 15m
Mark Ashmore 7 years ago

Awkward start, then quite goey with a few crimps up high. (3rd Shot)

3 * Jug Addiction

Start: Batman.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24
Sport 15m
Lauren Chandler 6 years ago

Equiped with Quick Clips at the top. I haven't ever seen anyone on these climbs before

Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago

hard batman! great rock. well worth the effort to get up to it

4 * Rollergirl

Start: Batman. As for 'Jug Addiction'.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23
Sport 17m
Ben Jenga 1 years ago

It's 22, really fun climbing on big holds.

Nathan Bolton 5 years ago

im so weak today :-(

5 * Wallace Fairweather

Start: Batman.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25
Sport 12m
6 * Wank Wank Spurt Direct

The all free version.

26
Unknown 15m
Mark Ashmore 6 years ago

I huffed and I puffed and I nearly stuck the dyno once.

Sebastian Sakowicz 6 years ago

Had my fingers over the hold once out of about 20 shots at the dyno. I guess this would be an eas...

7 * Wank Wank Spurt

24M0, pulling on the first bolt to reach high jug.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

24
Sport 15m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

eod o/s attempt. batman to the first bolt. easy jug pulling with good rests. was very stumped by ...

Tim Haasnoot 6 months ago

Fell off dyno but clean to top, still count as onsight? Didn't try first move again,

8 * Hip Shake Jerk

25M0. Start as above, pulling on first bolt. Can also be climbed free at 26.

FA: M. Stacey, 1988

25
Sport 18m
Matt Miller 3 months ago

Pretty soft for a 25.

Nathan Bolton 5 years ago

Very soft for the grade

9 Open Project
project
Unknown
10 * Better than a Wank

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser'.

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

26
Sport 15m
11 * Back Hand Tosser

Keep of the 'Arete'.

23
Sport 12m
Tim Haasnoot 6 months ago

Just bolt the arete, direct is just stupid. Not really worthwhile.

Mark Ashmore 6 years ago

This is one of the few climbs I consider to be absolute crap.

12 Unknown
24
Sport 10m
13 Bevins Effort
22
Unknown 5m
14 Einstuevzende Neubautch

Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly up to finish as for HSJ.

FA: G Weigand, 2000

26 M0
Aid 15m
15 ** Clutching at Draws

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in. Has been erased?

FA: Gavin Portier,

23
Unknown 12m
gavin portier 16 years ago

i have added this route for completeness, but unfortunately someone to it upon themself to remove...

1.2. Junket Pumper Area 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport,? and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.275155, -33.636402

Description:

80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Running of the Bowels

Start: If you do the next 2 routes please take care of the vegetation and use the plank. They are both batman starts!

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25
Sport 12m
Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

not great. thought id have a play anywya. chris's cleaning effort was legendary

Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

not great. thought id have a play anyway. chris's cleaning effort was legendary

2 ** Roof Raider

Cruise to a horrendous boulder problem.

Start: As for the preceding route.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

29
Sport 20m
Will Monks 10 months ago

wow, despite the batman this is actually awesome! super cool roof boulder!!

3 Stealth-Lackin' Sneaky-Snackin'

FA: Lawry Dermody, 2007

30
Unknown
Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
4 *** Miniskirt

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Cross Larger than Life where it breaches the roof. Continue for several more meters before busting through the roof and leftward up the headwall to double rings.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

29
Sport 35m
5 *** Larger Than Life

Up WM for 3 bolts, then left as for BM, then keep going left for miles ... traverse, traverse, traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

31
Sport 40m
6 Larger Than Life Extension
project
Unknown
7 Brutally Yours
27
Sport 18m
8 ** Brutal Movements

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

27
Sport 25m
Will Monks 9 months ago

grouse. 2nd lap, 1st euroshot ... if we don't count WM

Nick Cormack 4 years ago

Pretty cool climbing in between the jugs and cool finish. The shared crux still sucks though.

9 *** Wrong Movements

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite.

Start: Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1998

27
Sport 20m , 7
Torbjorn 5 months ago

Afternoon shot. Very close. Back in a few years:-)

Torbjorn 5 months ago

Too humid. Not a problem if I had been stronger or had technique, but I don't!

10 * Glad Ingram

Partially rebolted 2004, but there's still some old bolts and it has no anchor.

Start: Start as for JP.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24
Sport 18m , 8
Will Monks 2 years ago

a bit stop start but cool crux. solid 23

Tony Williams 5 years ago

Annual Sport climbing day 2008

11 Glad Ingram Direct Start
27
Sport 15m
Dave T 7 years ago

Sharp but nice in the winter sun

steve pollard 8 years ago

2nd shot

12 ** Junket Pumper

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all.

Start: Start under the line with the biggest holds, just left of the boulder, and right of the weird tree.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24
Sport 18m
Jara 10 days ago

Warm up climb for day 2 and I got further than I have in the past. Still can't work out a sequenc...

Craig Hitchcock 10 days ago

The second shot was definitely more stylish. Removed three of the moves from the ground to the th...

13 * Alpha Leather

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone.

Start: Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

FA: Garth Miller,

31
Sport 15m
14 * Squid Munching

Stick clip first bolt - you can reach it off the boulder. Short boulder problem to hamstring stretching on jugs. Back jump to clean.

Start: Start off the ground, and not on Alpha Leather!

FA: M.Warren, 2002

24
Sport 12m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

put on my swimmers and gave it another crack. climbs well. probably well better when dry too.

Danger Innes 3 months ago

o/s attempt in the rain. had a rest at 3rd bolt and got the rest clean. clipping the 2nd and 3rd ...

15 Billy Bunter

Has been rebolted (thanks!). However, the non-ideal positions of the bolts were not rectified; extenders recommended.

Start: Start off the boulder just R of 'Alpha Leather'.

FA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy, C. Cuthbertson, 1988

19
Sport 15m , 5
Danger Innes 3 months ago

tricky start. to easy finish. climbed it in boardies

Paul Thomson 4 months ago

Hmmm... Apparently I haven't been on this before. Done placing draws, but I know I've at least se...

16 Stephen Grunter

Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: J.Dodson, 2001

18 R
Sport 10m , 5
Matthew Glendenning 4 days ago

Not very appealing. Sketchy if 18 was your limit due to ledge

Paul Thomson 4 months ago

Repeat. Still ugly. Enough said.

17 * Dod the Liquid Bunter
4
Unknown 12m
David O'Donnell 6 years ago

should have 3 stars

Nick Kaczorowski 7 years ago

bah linkups r gay, especialy if dod did them...

18 Billy Snails

Links the start of Liquid snails into Billy Bunter. Heel hook start.

19
Unknown 15m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

after bunter and liquid.

Vanessa Wills 5 years ago

?A Dod linkup

19 Liquid Snails
18
Unknown 12m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

sod warm up. the juggy top easily done in the rain

Will Monks 2 years ago

A steaming pile of turd, worst sport route I've ever done. This route sux big time. hated every m...

20 ** Nightmare Merchant

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible.

Start: Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

FA: B.Cossey, 2002

28 R
Trad 7m
21 * Intrepid Hamster

3 tip tearing boulder problems.

FA: N.Marshal, 1997

26
Sport 7m

1.3. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275017, -33.635302

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Ruddy Norry

On carrots, take brackets. They're mostly glue-ins, though. It's a good warm up.

Start: Start as for 'Ratcat'.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1988

22
Sport 14m , 4
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

sod warm-up. had a rest before the crux

Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago

Repeat. Two laps one after the other as a warm-up. First lap was a dogs breakfast at the crux. Se...

2 ** Ratcat

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall.

Start: Start 4m right of the arete, at the obvious undercut mantle on the mushroomy thing.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

24 R
Sport 14m
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

beastmode didn't help and fingers pretty thrashed. maybe next time. 2 rests

Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

os attempt. 3 rests. good rainy day climb

3 ** Chase the Lady

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous.

Start: Start 2m R of the EiA arete.

FA: M.Radtke, J.Smoothy, 1988

23
Sport 14m , 5
lucky chance 5 weeks ago

ahhh the memories...

Danger Innes 3 months ago

soooo thin. no good rest until the braeak. could only get to break via dyno too. hard imo

4 Ernest the lady / Ernest Lady (linkup)

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of chase the lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

20 to 21
Sport 14m , 4
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

eod

Danger Innes 3 months ago

2 laps. rained two days in a row and was bone dry the whole time

5 * Ernest in Africa

Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought. Not taking away anything from the first ascentionist, of course. Rebolted 2004

Start: Start at the square arete on the R side of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

25
Sport 12m
Lee Cujes 4 months ago

I suspect there's a few people who've had to settle for the second shot on this puppy. Sigh [2]

Lee Cujes 4 months ago

Well, I was hoping to onsight this. It ended up being a nonsight.

6 * Nev Herrod

Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler,M.Law, 1988

23
Sport 12m , 5
Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago

Repeat to put the draws up for Jason. Fun thuggery.

Jason Nguyen 13 weeks ago

Epitome of an abysmal, horrible effort to climb. The direct start is so awkward, and the mantle a...

7 ** Mostly Harmless

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

29
Sport 12m
8 Iona

A decent bit of climbing.

Start: Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1988

24
Sport 12m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

o/s attempt. had to take a rest at the roof. wormed up the mantle. bouldery start, easy finish.

Will Monks 4 months ago

Worth doing once

9 *** Iona Hairy Sausage (link-up)

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too :)GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

27 R
Sport 30m
10 *** Madge McDonald

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at it's best.

FA: M. Baker, S. Wythe, 1992

25
Sport 12m , 7
lucky chance 5 weeks ago

considering its been 15 years since I've last done it I'm considering this a flash ;)

Will Monks 12 weeks ago

4 clean laps of this plus one (and a half!?) clean laps of Trix, in 2 hour lunch break

11 *** Trix Roughly

Good. One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury, J. Smoothy, 1990

26
Sport 12m , 5
lucky chance 5 weeks ago

for old times sake...

ross ferguson 4 months ago

4th shot. What a fight. I was off every move but some how sent. Quite funny for the onlookers.

12 ** Essentially Trix

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

27
Unknown 12m
M.Warren 8 years ago

Links the start of Bare Essential into Trix. Very Nowra.

13 * Bare Essentials

A bit of monkeying around.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26
Sport 12m
Will Monks 9 months ago

Just as good as Trix & Madge! Awesome. 1 hang

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

heel hook.....why not!

14 * Barely August / Barely August (Link-Up)

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

27
Unknown 12m
Mark Ashmore 6 years ago

Links Bare Essentials into August. Burley. [20]

15 *** August 1914

Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

Start: Start just R of the two wooden posts.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

29
Sport 12m
chris 1 years ago

All but the lunge move, which I keep falling off. The rest is good and not too hard.

chris 6 years ago

I can almost do the crux... getting closer every try. Am I dreaming? Another dog to the list, Woo...

16 * 1914
26
Unknown 12m
Trent Lee 7 years ago

cool moves..shame i cant start this one from the ground

Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

the original version. batman or pull on draws to start at the Big hole at 4th RB. really nice cli...

17 *** Better than Life

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

32
Sport 12m
18 (Bernie Crawley [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists.

24
Sport 15m
David Langley 23 years ago

no wonder i couldn't do it at 22

Steve

Since filled in.

19 (Nev Luvs Trix [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists.

24
Sport 12m
Steve 17 years ago

Chipped route - now filled in.

20 (Pass the Sausage [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists.

26
Sport 12m
21 Bernie Loves Sausages

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26
Sport 18m
christian lopez 4 years ago

damn harder

Mark Ashmore 7 years ago

(1/4/06) Finally got it sussed, so so close, but still ended up in the tree. (13/11/05)The crux s...

22 * Bernie Loves Tofu

As for 'Apraxia', almost to it's 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

28
Sport 18m , 4
Will Monks 9 months ago

7C spooge

Will Monks 1 years ago

note to self: if conditions "seem ok" the day after 30mm of rain - they're not! did most of crux...

23 ** Apraxia

Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

Start: Start just R of Padington.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

25
Sport 14m , 5
Lee Cujes 4 months ago

Three distinct cruxes for me. #1 powerful, #2 technical, then #3 powerful. [3]

Lee Cujes 4 months ago

Got on this 10 years ago and had nothing. Couldn't get past the second bolt. It still took quite ...

24 Ben McAlpine

???

25
Sport 12m
25 ** Padington

Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

Start: Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block).

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

25
Sport 12m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

o/s attempt, noice. 2 crimpy parts then smooth sailing. slipped of at the crux. very thin. anothe...

Will Monks 1 years ago

Quick lunch break session. The slimps are hard going when its pissing rain

26 Horrace Herod

The short right-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

25
Sport 12m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

was soaking but wanted to have a play. maybe if i had a blow dryer it would have gone. the key ho...

Paul Thomson 4 months ago

Not so good as a warm-up. Played around on the one hard move for a bit, but couldn't put together...

27 Hairy Horrace

Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. Clip'n'go anchor.

Start: This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

23
Sport 12m
Tom Kjaer-Olsen 4 months ago

Er, need a rest day.

Danger Innes 5 months ago

Original PP, maybe third attempt. Today got it pretty easy after horrace herrod

28 Acceptably Hairy

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

23
Sport 12m
Lauren Chandler 2 years ago

Climb many times before :)

Josh Caple 8 years ago

gawd i am so weak!!! should go next shot if i get myarse back into shape! otherwise it could be a...

29 My Crusty Strap-on

Take the gut busting out of 'Acceptably Hairy' and 'Acceptably Cosmic', - quite a lovly warm-up - NOT. Start AH and into the top of AC.

cute. A 'potentially' very dangerous route if you are only climbing 22! RUBBISH!!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

22
Sport 8m
30 Acceptably Cosmic

The first climb on the cliff. Rebolted 2004.

Start: This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law,

FA: M.Stacey,J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1988

23
Sport 10m
Paul Thomson 4 months ago

Warm-up putting the draws on. Good to clean up this old dog. Still feels pretty easy at the grade...

Jason Nguyen 6 months ago

Third shot today. Nearly didn't get the anchor clip! 1st 23 :)

31 The Disintegrator / Disintegrator

A short and not particularly nice route. Beware the name.

Start: Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

24
Sport 7m
32 * Unplugged

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

27
Sport 8m
. 5 years ago

So ridiculously hard. I couldn't even pretend to hold on. Never listen to JLo.

Tim Haasnoot 5 years ago

No go, got so close. Lost so much skin

33 ** Touch and Go

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

27
Sport 10m
Tim Haasnoot 5 years ago

tough

34 Anal Palm / Project

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

34
Sport 10m
35 Project (Saxon)
project
Unknown
36 ** Hello, Leafy Green

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

23 R
Sport 7m
37 *** Bowl of Milk

The left hand line in this fiesty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt ancor.Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

33
Sport 6m

1.4. White Linen Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274387, -33.635921

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Dr Foopsickle

Rebolted 2004

Short n sweet

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1988

20
Sport 8m
Lee Cujes 4 months ago

You really have to pull. Done previously.

Paul Thomson 5 months ago

Quite exciting for about 6 verticle metres of climbing (and some traversing). Weirdly fun and pum...

2 ** Levitation

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

FA: J.Scarborough, 2001

29
Sport 10m
3 *** Moonshadow

Start: up levitation then move rightwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

FA: Garth Miller,

33
Unknown 20m
4 *** Search and Destroy

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

FA: Lee Cossey,

32
Sport 10m
5 *** Der verrück schtark junge jakey b

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

FA: ben cossey., 2006

30
Sport 15m
6 ** Inertia

FA: L.Cossey, 2001

30
Sport 10m
7 ** Project

FA: P.Sage, 2000

Sport 12m
8 White Linen

Rebolted 2004. Apparently its only 27 if you dont clip the third bolt! Not climbed for few years because of this, but a great cimb never the less! There is a slight right hand varient that AVOIDS the crux and the best moves which makes the climb a 'comfortable' 26! What stupidity!!

FA: M. Baker, K. Carrigan, 1992

27
Sport 14m
David O'Donnell 3 years ago

whooot, whoot!

David O'Donnell 3 years ago

summer is close...lets rail this bitch nate!

9 ** NLJ

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1998

24
Sport 10m
Stephen Hawkshaw 10 years ago

very dirty start but rest is good

The next three routes start about 25m L of White Linen and share the same start.

10 *** Better than Nothing

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26 for ever until the GYM junkies arrived!

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

FA: M. Baker, 1998

27
Sport 15m
Will Monks 10 weeks ago

26, 27, who knows. awesome, definitely!

Will Monks 5 months ago

SO much warmer than Wave Wall with the dawn sun on it and no wind.

11 ** Tutu-sullied Flesh

A good fun gymnastic route by all accounts.

Start: Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of the first routes in this area.

FA: S. Johns, 1992

29
Sport 15m
. 5 years ago

No skin. Top resembles a chipped up garbage can...

12 ** Temptation

Hard stuff.

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh.

FA: L. Cossey, 2002

30
Sport 15m
13 Better than Chocolate

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

23
Sport 12m
Neil Monteith 2 years ago

More foot free roof campusing. Pity about the ledge halfway up.

Matt Schimke 2 years ago

Campus start.

14 Nappies Patrique?

FA: M. Law, 1995

26
Sport 10m
Adam Bramwell 6 years ago

Will the heel ever stick?

lloyd wishart 7 years ago

Finally!

1.5. Wave Wall 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273752, -33.636677

Description:© (aca_admin)

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Jaws

Although it is not a particularly pleasant climb, it is the easiest warm-up here abouts. Considered solid at the grade, but soloed by stronger climbers. Rebolted 2004

FA: Frey Yule,

21
Sport 15m
Jess 6 days ago

Cool view

Will Monks 11 weeks ago

x2

2 Off the Lip

FA: S. Richardson, F. Yule, 1992

23
Sport 15m
Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago

End of Day attempt, cause I didn't feel smashed enough. Not too bad until the roof, but -to me- t...

Mark Hateley 3 years ago

2nd shot

3 *** Rubber Lover

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

25
Sport 20m
Will Monks 9 weeks ago

warmup x2, warmdown x3, sent twice.

Aidan 10 weeks ago

getting close to a send...

4 *** Say Cheese and Die Mother F***er

Extension to Rubber Lover.

I hear you say extension to RL? 'Impossible', but one man had the curry to stand against tradition.

Start: Start as for RL.

FA: rowan druce., 2004

26
Sport 12m
5 * Microwave

Another wave wall classic. Apparently used to be 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

FA: M. Baker, 1992

30
Sport 25m
Will Monks 11 weeks ago

super duper!!! [1] 3 sits, all moves 1st go, what the...? except the top flake. [2] clean to 5th....

6 ** Staring At The Sea

Finish as for 'Tsunami', not Tugboat.

Start: Start as for 'Microwave'.

FA: G. Miller, 1998

32
Sport 25m
7 ** Point Break

3m L of Microwave to join at its flake.

FA: L. Cossey, 2000

31
Sport 20m
8 *** Tug Boat

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Starin at the Sea at the rest hole. Form there bust straight up instead of going left into 'Tsunami', chug out the roof and finish at the top.

FA: zac vertrees, 2006

32
Trad 15m
9 *** Tsunami

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

29
Sport 25m , 8
Will Monks 9 weeks ago

To last move of crux. I've had highpoints coming out my ears lately. Sendage, not so much. The wh...

Will Monks 10 weeks ago

excellent progress today. found 2 hands free rests, vastly improved the 3rd bolt section, trimmed...

10 *** Birthday Salmon (variant)

Radness start to 'Tsunami'.

Start: Start just right of Smoked Muscles and boulder you way into the first hard bit of 'Tsunami'.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey. Done on my birthday., 2004

29
Sport 15m
11 ** Smoked Mussels

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of 'Tsunami' then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

FA: Mark Baker,

26
Sport 12m , 4
Jay trent 1 years ago

got this on my 4th shot. fell off the last move the shot before. Should be 26 i think.

Will Monks 1 years ago

26 methinks. excellent punchy climbing

12 *** New England Clam Chowder (link-up)

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2004

29
Sport 10m
13 ** Sea Air

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts.

FA: M. Baker, 1997

28
Sport 10m
chris 7 years ago

Feel like I'm close, but ripped a nice flapper.

14 * Jaqueline Hyde

Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

24
Sport 15m
Jara 11 days ago

Second shot that day and needed directions to remember where I was going. Got to the top and had ...

Craig Hitchcock 11 days ago

Second shot, climbed smoothly through the crux and got the right feet sequence through the roof. ...

15 Puddles

Extention of Jaqueline Hyde

FA: Toby Benham,

27
Sport 15m
Ben Jenga 6 months ago

Soft like Cotton candy but I will take the 27 onsight extension. A couple of crimps to a big fun ...

Nick Cormack 6 years ago

Big last move, 4th shot

16 *** Split Wave

Possibly the most popular route at the crag. Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof.

FA: D. Noble, 1990

23
Sport 20m
Jara 11 days ago

Hadn't been on this in 6 months at least. Might as well have been a flash for all I remembered of...

Craig Hitchcock 11 days ago

Happier with this as I could finally feel my hands

17 * Shore Break

Punchy crimping to ledge then steep and tricky.

Start: Start just L of SW.

FA: W. Payton, 1992

24
Sport 15m
lucky chance 5 weeks ago

heaps harder than it was 16 years ago, well, for me...

Lauren Chandler 2 years ago

Super Rad!!! Hard and bouldery but once you get the sequence it is awesome!!!

18 * Cold Water Classic

FA: W. Payton, 1992

25
Sport 15m
David O'Donnell 3 years ago

nice bouldery sequence, but no lower offs... WTF. climb to the top of the cliff for 25 and down c...

JJ 7 years ago

What was I thinking?? Where are the loweroffs? That flake is scary :-/

19 Hang Five

This is a chop route until the shit bolts are replaced.

FA: M. Pircher, Z. Vertees, 1997

21 X
Sport 15m , 5
Adam Bramwell 6 years ago

steep at top

James Graham 6 years ago

Last move is the hardest match on crip and out to left

20 * The Tube

The groovy traverse on the far left side of wave wall. Good name.

FA: K. Klein, W. Payton, 1992

24
Sport 12m
Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Fun climbing, though definately soft for the grade. I'll take it, though, and it still took me 3 ...

tyrone.tunbull 1 years ago

cool climb a tad on the soft side for 24

21 ** Salubrious Sewerage

Start: About 15m L of 'The Tube'.

FA: M. Adams, S. Bell, 1997

27
Sport 10m
David O'Donnell 3 years ago

almost as good as sandbagging euro's on tsunami @ 27..lol!

. 5 years ago

Great boulder.

1.6. Woodpecker Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273152, -33.636557

Description:© (secretary)

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

Approach:© (secretary)

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Watch It Grow

FA: J.Clark, 1997

24
Sport 10m
Nathan Bolton 4 years ago

second bolt is a bitch to clip!

2 ** Crash Bandicoot

FA: C.Simpson, 1999

26
Sport 10m
3 Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport 10m
4 * No More Growth

FA: C.Hale, 1997

24
Sport 10m
5 ** Two Little Boys

Needs rebolting.

FA: Pommies, 1992

22
Sport 18m
David O'Donnell 5 years ago

the bolts are falling out by themselves...in desperate need of a rebolt!...good onsight motivation.

6 * Woodpecker

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

22
Sport 18m
Paul Thomson 5 months ago

God dammit, how did I not onsight this? Fell off on the last hard move before the juggy finale. M...

Stuart Ecob 5 years ago

2nd shot! the climbing gods are smiling on me!

7 Underwater Love

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

23
Sport 18m
Lauren Chandler 5 years ago

Old Dog. Second go today... Got shut down on the crux, hehe

Daniel Jamieson 5 years ago

yay, this climb is cool!

8 Duracell Bunny (aka Milky Jugs) / Milky Jugs

Start as for 'Underwater Love' then left.

FA: S.Bell, 2005

21
Sport 15m
Nathan Bolton 4 years ago

i had to come back for this one

Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

crap start but nice wall. 22 seems fair.

9 Something Void

Requires a #4 Friend. Scary.

FA: G.Fieg, 1991

22
Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 * Dod the Liquid Bunter Unknown 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
18 Liquid Snails Unknown 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Stephen Grunter Sport 10m , 5 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
19 Billy Bunter Sport 15m , 5 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Billy Snails Unknown 15m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
20 Dr Foopsickle Sport 8m 1.4. White Linen Wall
20 to 21 Ernest the lady Sport 14m , 4 1.3. Main Wall
21 Hang Five Sport 15m , 5 1.5. Wave Wall
* Jaws Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
Duracell Bunny (aka Milky Jugs) Sport 15m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
22 Bevins Effort Unknown 5m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
My Crusty Strap-on Sport 8m 1.3. Main Wall
* Ruddy Norry Sport 14m , 4 1.3. Main Wall
Something Void Trad 20m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
** Two Little Boys Sport 18m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
* Woodpecker Sport 18m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
23 * Back Hand Tosser Sport 12m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
** Clutching at Draws Unknown 12m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Rollergirl Sport 17m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Acceptably Cosmic Sport 10m 1.3. Main Wall
Acceptably Hairy Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Chase the Lady Sport 14m , 5 1.3. Main Wall
Hairy Horrace Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Hello, Leafy Green Sport 7m 1.3. Main Wall
* Nev Herrod Sport 12m , 5 1.3. Main Wall
Better than Chocolate Sport 12m 1.4. White Linen Wall
Off the Lip Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Split Wave Sport 20m 1.5. Wave Wall
Underwater Love Sport 18m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
24 * Jug Addiction Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Unknown Sport 10m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Wank Wank Spurt Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Glad Ingram Sport 18m , 8 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Junket Pumper Sport 18m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
* Squid Munching Sport 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
(Bernie Crawley [defunct]) Sport 15m 1.3. Main Wall
(Nev Luvs Trix [defunct]) Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
Iona Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Ratcat Sport 14m 1.3. Main Wall
The Disintegrator Sport 7m 1.3. Main Wall
** NLJ Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
* Jaqueline Hyde Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
* Shore Break Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
* The Tube Sport 12m 1.5. Wave Wall
* No More Growth Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
* Watch It Grow Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
25 * Hip Shake Jerk Sport 18m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
** Turn Your Money Green Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Wallace Fairweather Sport 12m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Running of the Bowels Sport 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Apraxia Sport 14m , 5 1.3. Main Wall
Ben McAlpine Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* Ernest in Africa Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
Horrace Herod Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Madge McDonald Sport 12m , 7 1.3. Main Wall
** Padington Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* Cold Water Classic Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Rubber Lover Sport 20m 1.5. Wave Wall
26 * Better than a Wank Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
** Limp Mode Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Wank Wank Spurt Direct Unknown 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Intrepid Hamster Sport 7m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
(Pass the Sausage [defunct]) Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* 1914 Unknown 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* Bare Essentials Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
Bernie Loves Sausages Sport 18m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Trix Roughly Sport 12m , 5 1.3. Main Wall
Nappies Patrique? Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
*** Say Cheese and Die Mother F***er Sport 12m 1.5. Wave Wall
** Smoked Mussels Sport 12m , 4 1.5. Wave Wall
** Crash Bandicoot Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
26 M0 Einstuevzende Neubautch Aid 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
27 ** Brutal Movements Sport 25m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Brutally Yours Sport 18m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Glad Ingram Direct Start Sport 15m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Wrong Movements Sport 20m , 7 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
* Barely August Unknown 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Essentially Trix Unknown 12m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Iona Hairy Sausage (link-up) Sport 30m 1.3. Main Wall
** Touch and Go Sport 10m 1.3. Main Wall
* Unplugged Sport 8m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Better than Nothing Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
White Linen Sport 14m 1.4. White Linen Wall
Puddles Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
** Salubrious Sewerage Sport 10m 1.5. Wave Wall
28 ** Nightmare Merchant Trad 7m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
* Bernie Loves Tofu Sport 18m , 4 1.3. Main Wall
** Sea Air Sport 10m 1.5. Wave Wall
29 *** Miniskirt Sport 35m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Roof Raider Sport 20m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** August 1914 Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Mostly Harmless Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Levitation Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Tutu-sullied Flesh Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
*** Birthday Salmon (variant) Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** New England Clam Chowder (link-up) Sport 10m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Tsunami Sport 25m , 8 1.5. Wave Wall
30 Stealth-Lackin' Sneaky-Snackin' Unknown 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Der verrück schtark junge jakey b Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Inertia Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Temptation Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
* Microwave Sport 25m 1.5. Wave Wall
31 * Alpha Leather Sport 15m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Larger Than Life Sport 40m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Point Break Sport 20m 1.5. Wave Wall
32 *** Better than Life Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Search and Destroy Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Staring At The Sea Sport 25m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Tug Boat Trad 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
33 *** Bowl of Milk Sport 6m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Moonshadow Unknown 20m 1.4. White Linen Wall
34 Anal Palm Sport 10m 1.3. Main Wall
? ** Project Sport 12m 1.4. White Linen Wall
Project Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
project Open Project Unknown 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Larger Than Life Extension Unknown 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Project (Saxon) Unknown 1.3. Main Wall