A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Centennial Glen 117 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274659, -33.636382

Description:

The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (secretary)

The crag is easily accessed by two methods:

  1. Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.

(2) Park in the carpark at the end of 'Centennial Glen' Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at 'Main Wall', 'White Linen', 'Search and Destroy', 'Wave Wall' or 'Woodpecker Wall'. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for 'Junket Pumper' and 'Hip Shake Jerk' sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.274149, -33.637461

Description:© (secretary)

A small steep wall on good rock. Pity about the aid starts.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area below and to the right (facing out) from the lookout below 'Centennial Glen' Rd. Faces 'Wave Wall' and is sunny and out of the wind all winter.

This is the first climbing area you come to when entering the Glen.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Limp Mode

Start: Batman.

FA: C.Simpson, 1998

26Sport 15m
2 ** Turn Your Money Green

You actually get a 'grade' for the batman! 'Excellent' - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

Start: Batman.

FA: Mitch Warren

25Sport 15m
3 * Jug Addiction

Start: Batman.

FA: S.Cody, 1999

24Sport 15m
4 * Rollergirl

Start: Batman. As for 'Jug Addiction'.

FA: F.Leese, 1999

23Sport 17m
5 * Wallace Fairweather

Start: Batman.

FA: J.Clark, 1996

25Sport 12m
6 * Wank Wank Spurt Direct

The all free version.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

26Sport 15m
7 Wank Wank Spurt

24M0, pulling on the first bolt to reach high jug.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

24Sport 15m
8 * Hip Shake Jerk

25M0. Start as above, pulling on first bolt. Can also be climbed free at 26.

FA: M. Stacey, 1988

25Sport 18m
9 Open Project projectUnknown
10 * Better than a Wank

Has loose bolts.

Start: As for 'Back Hand Tosser'.

FA: M.Pircher, 1997

26Sport 15m
11 Back Hand Tosser

Keep of the 'Arete'.

23Sport 12m
12 Unknown 24Sport 10m
13 Bevins Effort 22Unknown 5m
14 Einstuevzende Neubautch

Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly up to finish as for HSJ.

FA: G Weigand, 2000

26 M0Aid 15m
15 ** Clutching at Draws

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in. Has been erased?

FA: Gavin Portier

23Unknown 12m

1.2. Junket Pumper Area 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275155, -33.636402

Description:

80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall. One of the few areas in the Glenn that gets sun in the winter. But is desperately hot in summer. Has some very nice orange rock.

Approach:© (secretary)

Walk about 80m right of the main wall to a terrace 10m above the track. This wall is opposite the main wall.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Running of the Bowels

Start: If you do the next 2 routes please take care of the vegetation and use the plank. They are both batman starts!

FA: L.Wishart, 1998

25Sport 12m
2 ** Roof Raider

Cruise to a horrendous boulder problem.

Start: As for the preceding route.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

29Sport 20m
3 Stealth-Lackin' Sneaky-Snackin'

FA: Lawry Dermody, 2007

30Sport
4 *** Miniskirt

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Cross Larger than Life where it breaches the roof. Continue for several more meters before busting through the roof and leftward up the headwall to double rings.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

29Sport 35m
5 *** Larger Than Life

Up WM for 3 bolts, then left as for BM, then keep going left for miles ... traverse, traverse, traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: S.Grkovic, 2001

31Sport 40m
6 Larger Than Life Extension projectUnknown
7 Brutally Yours 27Sport 18m
8 ** Brutal Movements

Start: Start as for 'Wrong Movements'.

FA: J.Clark, 1997

27Sport 25m
9 *** Wrong Movements

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite.

Start: Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1998

27Sport 20m, 7
10 * Glad Ingram

Partially rebolted 2004, but there's still some old bolts and it has no anchor.

Start: Start as for JP.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24Sport 18m, 8
11 Glad Ingram Direct Start 27Sport 15m
12 *** Junket Pumper

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all.

Start: Start under the line with the biggest holds, just left of the boulder, and right of the weird tree.

FA: M. Stacey, J. Smoothy, 1988

24Sport 18m
13 * Alpha Leather

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone.

Start: Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

FA: Garth Miller

31Sport 15m
14 Squid Munching

Stick clip first bolt - you can reach it off the boulder. Short boulder problem to hamstring stretching on jugs. Back jump to clean.

Start: Start off the ground, and not on Alpha Leather!

FA: M.Warren, 2002

24Sport 12m
15 Billy Bunter

Has been rebolted (thanks!). However, the non-ideal positions of the bolts were not rectified; extenders recommended.

Start: Start off the boulder just R of 'Alpha Leather'.

FA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy, C. Cuthbertson, 1988

19Sport 15m, 5
16 Stephen Grunter

Pretty crap, unless you like grunty mantles. Oh, and if you fall off try not to hit a ledge.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: J.Dodson, 2001

18 RSport 10m, 5
17 * Dod the Liquid Bunter 4Unknown 12m
18 Billy Snails

Links the start of Liquid snails into Billy Bunter. Heel hook start.

19Sport 15m
19 Liquid Snails 18Sport 12m
20 ** Nightmare Merchant

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible.

Start: Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

FA: B.Cossey, 2002

28 RTrad 7m
21 * Intrepid Hamster

3 tip tearing boulder problems.

FA: N.Marshal, 1997

26Sport 7m

1.3. Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.275017, -33.635302

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ruddy Norry

On carrots, take brackets. They're mostly glue-ins, though. It's a good warm up.

Start: Start as for 'Ratcat'.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1988

22Sport 14m, 4
2 ** Ratcat

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall.

Start: Start 4m right of the arete, at the obvious undercut mantle on the mushroomy thing.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

24 RSport 14m
3 ** Chase the Lady

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous.

Start: Start 2m R of the EiA arete.

FA: M.Radtke, J.Smoothy, 1988

23Sport 14m, 5
4 Ernest the lady / Ernest Lady (linkup)

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of chase the lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

20 to 21Sport 14m, 4
5 * Ernest in Africa

Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought. Not taking away anything from the first ascentionist, of course. Rebolted 2004

Start: Start at the square arete on the R side of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

25Sport 12m
6 * Nev Herrod

Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall.

FA: S.Butler,M.Law, 1988

23Sport 12m, 5
7 ** Mostly Harmless

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

29Sport 12m
8 * Iona

A decent bit of climbing.

Start: Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1988

24Sport 12m
9 *** Iona Hairy Sausage (link-up)

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too :)GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

27 RSport 30m
10 *** Madge McDonald

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at it's best.

FA: M. Baker, S. Wythe, 1992

25Sport 12m, 7
11 *** Trix Roughly

Good. One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury, J. Smoothy, 1990

26Sport 12m, 5
12 ** Essentially Trix

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

27Sport 12m
13 ** Bare Essentials

A bit of monkeying around.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26Sport 12m
14 * Barely August / Barely August (Link-Up)

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

27Sport 12m
15 *** August 1914

Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

Start: Start just R of the two wooden posts.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

29Sport 12m
16 * 1914

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

26Sport 12m
17 *** Better than Life

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

32Sport 12m
18 (Bernie Crawley [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

24Sport 15m
19 (Nev Luvs Trix [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

24Sport 12m
20 (Pass the Sausage [defunct])

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

26Sport 12m
21 Bernie Loves Sausages

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

26Sport 18m
22 * Bernie Loves Tofu

As for 'Apraxia', almost to it's 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

Start: Start as for 'Apraxia'.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

28Sport 18m, 4
23 ** Apraxia

Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

Start: Start just R of Padington.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

25Sport 14m, 5
24 Ben McAlpine

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

25Sport 12m
25 ** Padington

Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

Start: Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block).

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

25Sport 12m
26 Horrace Herod

The short right-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of the boulder.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

25Sport 12m
27 Hairy Horrace

Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground. Clip'n'go anchor.

Start: This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

23Sport 12m
28 Acceptably Hairy

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

23Sport 12m
29 My Crusty Strap-on

Take the gut busting out of 'Acceptably Hairy' and 'Acceptably Cosmic', - quite a lovly warm-up - NOT. Start AH and into the top of AC.

cute. A 'potentially' very dangerous route if you are only climbing 22! RUBBISH!!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

22Sport 8m
30 Acceptably Cosmic

The first climb on the cliff. Rebolted 2004.

Start: This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law

FA: M.Stacey,J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1988

23Sport 10m
31 The Disintegrator / Disintegrator

A short and not particularly nice route. Beware the name.

Start: Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

24Sport 7m
32 * Unplugged

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

27Sport 8m
33 ** Touch and Go

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

27Sport 10m
34 Anal Palm

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

34Sport 10m
35 Project (Saxon) projectUnknown
36 ** Hello, Leafy Green

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

23 RSport 7m
37 *** Bowl of Milk

The left hand line in this fiesty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt ancor.Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

33Sport 6m

1.4. White Linen Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.274387, -33.635921

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dr Foopsickle

Rebolted 2004

Short n sweet

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1988

20Sport 8m
2 ** Levitation

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

FA: J.Scarborough, 2001

29Sport 10m
3 *** Moonshadow

Start: up levitation then move rightwards into search and destroy, eliminates the batman start to SAD and is the BEST/ONLY way to climb this route!!!

FA: Garth Miller

33Sport 20m
4 *** Search and Destroy

Batman start.

Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'.

FA: Lee Cossey

32Sport 10m
5 *** Der verrück schtark junge jakey b

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

FA: ben cossey., 2006

30Sport 15m
6 ** Inertia

FA: L.Cossey, 2001

30Sport 10m
7 ** Project

FA: P.Sage, 2000

Sport 12m
8 * White Linen

Rebolted 2004. Apparently its only 27 if you dont clip the third bolt! Not climbed for few years because of this, but a great cimb never the less! There is a slight right hand varient that AVOIDS the crux and the best moves which makes the climb a 'comfortable' 26! What stupidity!!

FA: M. Baker, K. Carrigan, 1992

27Sport 14m
9 ** NLJ

FA: B. Hodgeson, 1998

24Sport 10m

The next three routes start about 25m L of White Linen and share the same start.

10 *** Better than Nothing

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26 for ever until the GYM junkies arrived!

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

FA: M. Baker, 1998

27Sport 15m
11 ** Tutu-sullied Flesh

A good fun gymnastic route by all accounts.

Start: Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of the first routes in this area.

FA: S. Johns, 1992

29Sport 15m
12 ** Temptation

Hard stuff.

Start: Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh.

FA: L. Cossey, 2002

30Sport 15m
13 * Better than Chocolate

FA: L. Wishart, 1997

23Sport 12m
14 Nappies Patrique?

FA: M. Law, 1995

26Sport 10m

1.5. Wave Wall 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273752, -33.636677

Description:© (aca_admin)

This mighty impressive wall contains a great range of quality routes at all grades in the 20s. Gets sun from about 2-3pm.

Routes are described right to left, which is the order that you get to them from the walk in.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

This crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jaws

Although it is not a particularly pleasant climb, it is the easiest warm-up here abouts. Considered solid at the grade, but soloed by stronger climbers. Rebolted 2004

FA: Frey Yule

21Sport 15m, 4
2 Off the Lip

FA: S. Richardson, F. Yule, 1992

23Sport 15m
3 *** Rubber Lover

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

25Sport 20m, 5
4 *** Say Cheese and Die Mother F***er

Extension to Rubber Lover.

I hear you say extension to RL? 'Impossible', but one man had the curry to stand against tradition.

Start: Start as for RL.

FA: rowan druce., 2004

26Sport 12m
5 * Microwave

Another wave wall classic. Apparently used to be 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

FA: M. Baker, 1992

30Sport 25m
6 ** Staring At The Sea

Finish as for 'Tsunami', not Tugboat.

Start: Start as for 'Microwave'.

FA: G. Miller, 1998

32Sport 25m
7 ** Point Break

3m L of Microwave to join at its flake.

FA: L. Cossey, 2000

31Sport 20m
8 *** Tug Boat

Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Starin at the Sea at the rest hole. Form there bust straight up instead of going left into 'Tsunami', chug out the roof and finish at the top.

FA: zac vertrees, 2006

32Trad 15m
9 *** Tsunami

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

29Sport 25m, 8
10 *** Birthday Salmon (variant)

Radness start to 'Tsunami'.

Start: Start just right of Smoked Muscles and boulder you way into the first hard bit of 'Tsunami'.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey. Done on my birthday., 2004

29Sport 15m
11 ** Smoked Mussels

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of 'Tsunami' then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

FA: Mark Baker

26Sport 12m, 4
12 *** New England Clam Chowder (link-up)

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

FA: Benjamin P. Cossey, 2004

29Sport 10m
13 ** Sea Air

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts.

FA: M. Baker, 1997

28Sport 10m
14 ** Jaqueline Hyde

Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

24Sport 15m, 6
15 Puddles

Extention of Jaqueline Hyde

FA: Toby Benham

26Sport 15m
16 *** Split Wave

Possibly the most popular route at the crag. Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof.

FA: D. Noble, 1990

23Sport 20m
17 * Shore Break

Punchy crimping to ledge then steep and tricky.

Start: Start just L of SW.

FA: W. Payton, 1992

24Sport 15m
18 * Cold Water Classic

FA: W. Payton, 1992

25Sport 15m
19 Hang Five

This is a chop route until the shit bolts are replaced.

FA: M. Pircher, Z. Vertees, 1997

21 XSport 15m, 5
20 * The Tube

The groovy traverse on the far left side of wave wall. Good name.

FA: K. Klein, W. Payton, 1992

24Sport 12m
21 ** Salubrious Sewerage

Start: About 15m L of 'The Tube'.

FA: M. Adams, S. Bell, 1997

27Sport 10m

1.6. Woodpecker Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.273152, -33.636557

Description:© (secretary)

A small, and often neglected crag at the extreme end of The Glen. Not particularly inspiring, but does contain some good vertical routes. Out of the sun from mid morning.

Approach:© (secretary)

Continue past Wave Wall for 20m.

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. The BMCC in general frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy areas of BMCC land. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Watch It Grow

FA: J.Clark, 1997

24Sport 10m
2 ** Crash Bandicoot

FA: C.Simpson, 1999

26Sport 10m
3 Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport 10m
4 * No More Growth

FA: C.Hale, 1997

24Sport 10m
5 ** Two Little Boys

Needs rebolting.

FA: Pommies, 1992

22Sport 18m
6 * Woodpecker

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

22Sport 18m
7 Underwater Love

Rebolted 2004

FA: F.Yule, 1992

23Sport 18m
8 Duracell Bunny (aka Milky Jugs) / Milky Jugs

Start as for 'Underwater Love' then left.

FA: S.Bell, 2005

21Sport 15m
9 Something Void

Requires a #4 Friend. Scary.

FA: G.Fieg, 1991

22Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 * Dod the Liquid Bunter Unknown 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
18 Liquid Snails Sport 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Stephen Grunter Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
19 Billy Bunter Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Billy Snails Sport 15m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
20 * Dr Foopsickle Sport 8m 1.4. White Linen Wall
20 to 21 Ernest the lady Sport 14m, 4 1.3. Main Wall
21 Hang Five Sport 15m, 5 1.5. Wave Wall
* Jaws Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Wave Wall
Duracell Bunny (aka Milky Jugs) Sport 15m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
22 Bevins Effort Unknown 5m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
My Crusty Strap-on Sport 8m 1.3. Main Wall
* Ruddy Norry Sport 14m, 4 1.3. Main Wall
Something Void Trad 20m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
** Two Little Boys Sport 18m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
* Woodpecker Sport 18m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
23 Back Hand Tosser Sport 12m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
** Clutching at Draws Unknown 12m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Rollergirl Sport 17m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Acceptably Cosmic Sport 10m 1.3. Main Wall
Acceptably Hairy Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Chase the Lady Sport 14m, 5 1.3. Main Wall
Hairy Horrace Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Hello, Leafy Green Sport 7m 1.3. Main Wall
* Nev Herrod Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Main Wall
* Better than Chocolate Sport 12m 1.4. White Linen Wall
Off the Lip Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Split Wave Sport 20m 1.5. Wave Wall
Underwater Love Sport 18m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
24 * Jug Addiction Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Unknown Sport 10m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Wank Wank Spurt Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Glad Ingram Sport 18m, 8 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Junket Pumper Sport 18m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Squid Munching Sport 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
(Bernie Crawley [defunct]) Sport 15m 1.3. Main Wall
(Nev Luvs Trix [defunct]) Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* Iona Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Ratcat Sport 14m 1.3. Main Wall
The Disintegrator Sport 7m 1.3. Main Wall
** NLJ Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Jaqueline Hyde Sport 15m, 6 1.5. Wave Wall
* Shore Break Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
* The Tube Sport 12m 1.5. Wave Wall
* No More Growth Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
* Watch It Grow Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
25 * Hip Shake Jerk Sport 18m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
** Turn Your Money Green Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Wallace Fairweather Sport 12m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Running of the Bowels Sport 12m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Apraxia Sport 14m, 5 1.3. Main Wall
Ben McAlpine Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* Ernest in Africa Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
Horrace Herod Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Madge McDonald Sport 12m, 7 1.3. Main Wall
** Padington Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* Cold Water Classic Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Rubber Lover Sport 20m, 5 1.5. Wave Wall
26 * Better than a Wank Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
** Limp Mode Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Wank Wank Spurt Direct Sport 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
* Intrepid Hamster Sport 7m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
(Pass the Sausage [defunct]) Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
* 1914 Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Bare Essentials Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
Bernie Loves Sausages Sport 18m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Trix Roughly Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Main Wall
Nappies Patrique? Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
Puddles Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Say Cheese and Die Mother F***er Sport 12m 1.5. Wave Wall
** Smoked Mussels Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Wave Wall
** Crash Bandicoot Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
26 M0 Einstuevzende Neubautch Aid 15m 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
27 ** Brutal Movements Sport 25m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Brutally Yours Sport 18m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Glad Ingram Direct Start Sport 15m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Wrong Movements Sport 20m, 7 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
* Barely August Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Essentially Trix Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Iona Hairy Sausage (link-up) Sport 30m 1.3. Main Wall
** Touch and Go Sport 10m 1.3. Main Wall
* Unplugged Sport 8m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Better than Nothing Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
* White Linen Sport 14m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Salubrious Sewerage Sport 10m 1.5. Wave Wall
28 ** Nightmare Merchant Trad 7m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
* Bernie Loves Tofu Sport 18m, 4 1.3. Main Wall
** Sea Air Sport 10m 1.5. Wave Wall
29 *** Miniskirt Sport 35m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Roof Raider Sport 20m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** August 1914 Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Mostly Harmless Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
** Levitation Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Tutu-sullied Flesh Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
*** Birthday Salmon (variant) Sport 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** New England Clam Chowder (link-up) Sport 10m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Tsunami Sport 25m, 8 1.5. Wave Wall
30 Stealth-Lackin' Sneaky-Snackin' Sport 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Der verrück schtark junge jakey b Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Inertia Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Temptation Sport 15m 1.4. White Linen Wall
* Microwave Sport 25m 1.5. Wave Wall
31 * Alpha Leather Sport 15m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
*** Larger Than Life Sport 40m 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
** Point Break Sport 20m 1.5. Wave Wall
32 *** Better than Life Sport 12m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Search and Destroy Sport 10m 1.4. White Linen Wall
** Staring At The Sea Sport 25m 1.5. Wave Wall
*** Tug Boat Trad 15m 1.5. Wave Wall
33 *** Bowl of Milk Sport 6m 1.3. Main Wall
*** Moonshadow Sport 20m 1.4. White Linen Wall
34 Anal Palm Sport 10m 1.3. Main Wall
? ** Project Sport 12m 1.4. White Linen Wall
Project Sport 10m 1.6. Woodpecker Wall
project Open Project Unknown 1.1. Hip Shake Jerk Area
Larger Than Life Extension Unknown 1.2. Junket Pumper Area
Project (Saxon) Unknown 1.3. Main Wall