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Description:© (aca_admin)

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all.

Start: Start under the line with the biggest holds, just left of the boulder, and right of the weird tree.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: M. Stacey & J. Smoothy, 1988


Located in Junket Pumper Area approx:
Long/Lat: 150.275155,-33.636402

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Tim Vaughan
24 Principal
24 OZ Rock
24 ** ** ACA Route Register
24(S) ** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
24(S) ** Blue Mountains Climbing
24 ** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
24(S) *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 72%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid dyno challenging tired crux hard stoked super fun cool rad nice fantastic good sweet great lovely enjoyable classic awesome fall tricky committing steep rest epic hands crimpy short flake easy bad cruisy sharp

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