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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 V-2 Schneider Trad 20m

Arete 23m right og the cravasse. Quite desperate!

Start: Marked

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

2

Start: About 30m right.Marked.

FA: J Croker & R Starmer

3
13 Plug Trad 20m

Take big gear.

Start: Up chimney to roof, swing over and up wide crack.

FA: J.Croker,B.Ratter, 1974

4
20 * Rock'n Roll Suicide Sport 40m

Quite good. Rebolted.

Start: Marked.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

5
21 * Teenage Wildlife Sport 40m

2m right.Rebolted.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

6
11 Yeti Trad 30m

Start: 2m right at V Chimney.

FA: J.Crocker,A.Porter, 1974

7

"Where no man has yet trod...again"

Start: As for Yeti.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

8
20 Hunger City Trad 30m

Hard start and an exciting finish!

Start: Marked.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

9

FA: Pam and Glenn

10
19 Busting Loose Trad 30m

More excitement through a roof.

Start: At overhang 3m right of HC.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

11
17 Teeny Bopper Trad 30m

Offwidth Roof. Soloed.

Start: 60m right of BL.

FA: R.Young, 1982

12
20 * Talking Heads Trad 25m

Start: Roof 2m right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

13
21 Making Movies Trad 25m

Marked.

Start: Below roof 6m right of TB.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,S.Hickson, 1982

14
20 Panic in Detroid Trad 25m

Roof, thin crack and wall.

Start: If you are coming down 'Bardens Gully' this is the first route to the right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,S.Hickson, 1982

15
18 Duty Calls Unknown 20m

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