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Shady Wall 5 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 26m
  • Style: Top Rope,Sport and Trad
  • Approach time: 10 min
  • Ascents: 10

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Description:

A very shady south facing wall with several mystery routes. They are perfect for an afternoon crank on the way out after the main wall gets in the sun. Rock is really good quality but top is a little mossy. Shade after 11am. Some fuck wits have been shitting in the cave on the right side of this crag - desist please! Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of Sublime Point. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of bolts.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of 'Sublime Point'. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of shiny bolts. Routes are listed from left to right.

Ethic:© inherited from Sublime Point

Traditional and Mixed climbing.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Old Bad Trad

An old all trad route up a faint seam crack on the left side of the wall, about 2m left of the first bolted route. There a couple of manky pitons en route and a couple of crap bolts on the ledge 2/3rds of the way up the wall to belay off. Grade is a rough guesstimate.

18
Mixed 40m , 18
2 * Consumer Eve

A touch easier than Sundail. Tricky start on shallow pockets then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All u-bolts.

21
Sport 20m , 9
3 * Shady Lady / Sundial

One long pitch or maybe nicer to break up into 2 pitches.

  1. Glue in carrots and rings to ledge.

  2. Rings to top.

FA: Josh Dodson,

FFA: Jason Lammers, 2010

21
Sport 32m , 15
4 * Haterade

Middle route of the wall. Left trending start on orange pocketed rock then back right to small roof. Over this on small holds and up black face above on little edges to lower-off. A little mossy up high.

24
Sport 18m , 8
5 Mystery Route

Furthest right route. Not much is known about the history behind this climb - a faded project tag has been hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Bolted by Josh Dodson and was his project for some time.

25
Sport 20m

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