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Description

A very shady south facing wall with a couple of sport routes. They are perfect for an afternoon crank on the way out after the main wall gets in the sun. Rock is good quality but top is a little mossy. Shade after 11am. Some idiots have been shitting in the cave on the right side of this crag - desist please! Don't forget the bolt plates if you are planning to climb Shady Lady.

Access issues inherited from West Face

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach

Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of 'Sublime Point'. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of shiny bolts. Routes are listed from left to right.

Descent Notes

All routes have lower-off anchors.

Ethic inherited from West Face

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

History

Apart from a mysterious trad route on the left side of this wall, the first 'modern' bolted climbing was done by Josh Dobson sometime in the 2000s. In 2010 a few other new routes were added by Jason Lammers and Neil Monteith. Macca has solo TR'd a direct version of the trad route on the left side and continuing to the top ...

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Old Bad Trad Mixed 40m, 2

An old all trad route up the obvious easy corner, then right onto face and up to ledge and BB. There a couple of manky pitons en route and a couple of crap bolts on the ledge 2/3rds of the way up the wall to belay off. Grade is a rough guesstimate. Macca has done a solo TR direct version (~22) of this up a faint seam crack a few metres to the right, and continuing to the top of the cliff (shown in topo).

FA: Direct - Macciza

FA: Ye Olde Climbers 70s/80s?

2
21 * Consumer Eve Sport 20m, 9

The best warmup/warm down on this wall. Tricky start on shallow pockets then orange wall to bulge. Over this using flake then up reachy face above. All U-bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law, 2010

3
21 * Shady Lady / Sundial Sport 32m, 15

Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.

  1. 20m (21) A couple of rings to start then 7+ glue-in carrots (hangers required) to small ledge and rap anchor. Quite thin in places.

  2. 12m (21) Continue up steeper wall above on pumpy little flats. Its exactly 30m to the ground from the top anchors.

FA: Josh Dodson (pitch 1)

FA: Jason Lammers (pitch 2), 2010

4
24 * Haterade Sport 18m, 8

Middle route of the wall. Left trending start on orange pocketed rock then back right to small roof. Over this on small holds and up black face above on little edges to lower-off. A little mossy up high.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

5
25 Mystery Route Sport Project 20m

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point!

Set by Josh Dobson