Shady Wall Mostly sport climbing5 routes in cliff
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A very shady south facing wall with a couple of sport routes. They are perfect for an afternoon crank on the way out after the main wall gets in the sun. Rock is good quality but top is a little mossy. Shade after 11am. Some idiots have been shitting in the cave on the right side of this crag - desist please! Don't forget the bolt plates if you are planning to climb Shady Lady.
Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
Located halfway down the descent to the main wall of 'Sublime Point'. Follow track down past the squeeze slot, then down the fixed rope. At the bottom of these turn left to find base of wall with lots of shiny bolts. Routes are listed from left to right.
All routes have lower-off anchors.
Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
Apart from a mysterious trad route on the left side of this wall, the first 'modern' bolted climbing was done by Josh Dobson sometime in the 2000s. In 2010 a few other new routes were added by Jason Lammers and Neil Monteith. Macca has solo TR'd a direct version of the trad route on the left side and continuing to the top ...
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