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Summary

Proud long arete features on predominant buttresses. Plenty of classics here, though most are rarely climbed.

In the shade for most of the day, making them an excellent choice for summer.

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Description

An crag boasting grand views of the valley below with grand cliffs and peaks in the distance. Easy quick access providing climbs of easy to hard grades with some height to boot.

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Heading west through Mount Victoria, turn left onto Hooper street, then right onto Victoria St, and left onto Innes Road. Follow this to the end of the street. Park here if you have a 2WD car, or continue down the dirt track ahead (tricky only on the first steep bit).

Access to Outer Space Buttress and Renitz Pass is best made by parking at the marked Pulpit Rock trail, heading to the appropriate buttress (see specific area for details) and abseiling in.

Access to Access Gully Wall, Fashion Area, Zig Zag, Black Gold Buttress and Teenage Buttress is made by parking at the lower car park, and walking down the "Little Zig Zag" walking track (see specific area for details).

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Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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