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Table of contents

1. Corroboree Walls 40 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.249682, -33.598466

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (secretary)

In summer months the south faces of these buttresses get the sun until about 9am, making them great for a glorious sunny romp in the cool of the morning.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Access Gully Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.247083, -33.598527

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown Gridbolt for kids?

Left of Arete. Obvious line of grid bolts about 1m spacing up the gully.

10 Sport
2 Long John Silver

On the side wall left of arete. Take 14 draws including anchors or skip a few bolts.

FA: F,F Pircher, 2015

15 Sport 20m
3 Glabrate

Start: Lefthand arete. To the right of the access gully.

FA: Lindsay?, 2000

17 Sport 25m
4 Lightning McQueen 19 Sport 22m
5 Claw Tortoise / Iron Man 19 Sport 22m
6 Stromboli

FA: M and G Pircher, 2015

21 Sport 25m
7 * Uncontrollable Urge

FA: L,M & G. Garben, 2000

23 Sport 22m
8 Nappy Action

FA: L,M & G.Garben, 1999

18 Sport 22m
9 Lady Tremaine

Start as for Nappy Action then traverse right

FA: M Pircher, 2015

Sport 25m
10 Captain Hook

FA: F and M Pircher, 2015

19 Sport 25m
11 Malificent

FA: F and M Pircher, 2015

18 Sport 25m
12 Nantucket Sleigh Ride

Corner crack to ledge. Up wall with little pro!

FA: C.Dawson,P.Morris,B.Maddison,R,Parkin, 1973

10 R Trad 48m
13 Bacon

Right arête, starting at double ring belay bolts.

FA: F Pircher,K Short, 2015

15 Sport 25m

1.2. Fashion Area 6 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.247216, -33.598641

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project?

Project left of Fashion. Don't touch the arete.

Using the arete makes it a reachy 23? 24?

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Fashion

Start: As a sport route has lower off at 15m. You can traverse left from here to a belay and then carry on to the top with very minimal gear!

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1983

23 Sport 15m
3 ** Work Injury

FA: D.Taylor, 2005

24 Sport 15m
4 * Queen Bitch

Start: The steep, sandy flake. As a sport route it has lower offs at 15m. You can continue another 30 the top with minimal (no) gear! Rebolted 2004

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1983

21 Sport 15m
5 Pushover Pinnacle

Start: The leaning Pinnacle to the right of the Bushranger Cave. Climbs the pinnacle in a clockwise direction, then to the left to top of the cliff.

FA: M.Law,K,Roseberry, 1975

17 Trad 45m
6 Pushover Pinnacle Direct

The direct sport start to Pushover Pinnacle. Goes about grade 20 with 4 bouldery moves at the beginning (well protected); then a sandy run out adventure to the top.

19 Sport 20m, 9

1.3. Black Gold Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** White Light

Start: Corner 20m right of the cave. 3 pitches.

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall, 1974

19 Trad 45m
2 * Atilla

A classic ramp?

Start: 6m to the right of 'White Light'.

  1. 18m (-) Up the flake to belay.

  2. 24m (15) Up 2m to traverse line, up to cave, up to belay on ranp.

  3. 20m (-) Up the ramp.

  4. 24m (-) Up to the chimney, into the back and through to the other side. up.

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall, 1974

15 R Trad 86m 4
3 * Black Gold

Start: As for 'Attila', then out right to the arete. Now rebolted (2016?) on rings. Stunning winters afternoon climbing.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1987

24 Trad 30m
4 * Bubbling Crude

High 'n' Wild's 50m abseil! Was probably good once.

Start: Rap in to hanging belay. You cant miss the top.

FA: M.Stacey,B.Maddison, 1997

23 R Trad 45m
5 ** Long Distance Relationships

The line of u bolts from base of Buttress intersecting Texas Tea traverse at 15mtrs and continuing up face. A strenous and extremely chossy first pitch.This route shares 6m of climbing with Screen Gems however if your following carrots your off route. Has gained a few grades after it was mentioned it shares screen gems crux and gained three extra bolts (20/11/14) after J.Smoothy tactfully convinced route developer that broken ankles and shattered shins and knees are not in vogue and never have been. Climb in one pitch (recomended!)from ground with 20 draws (a couple of long ones too) or use DUBB at 15mtrs and multi. Pull mantle crux and dance on up for ever. Take one or two #0.4 camalots for break near top (essential). DUBB @ top.

FFA: Evan Wells . Jacindi Jackson, 2013

21 Mixed 50m, 20
6 ** Texas Tea

Apparently a hard onsight. the arete.

Start: as fo screen gems . Up and traverse leftwards crossing long distance relations to belay on arete 2: up arete to top

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Stacey, 1986

24 Sport 55m

1.4. Jungle One 3 routes in Cliff

Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Screen Gems

Nice name? Big and Interesting!

Start: As for jungle bash of previous route. To short arete,up through bulge past a couple of carrots. Up.

FA: G.Bradbury, M.Baker, 2000

22 Trad 50m
2 * Roark's Drift

Start: As for the previous two routes. Staright up the wall.

FA: G.Child,R.Muehlen,J.Smoothy, 1990

23 R Trad 45m
3 Swimming Pools, Movie Stars

Start: Bash your way to the right side of the next buttress. This arete looks pretty good from Teenager Buttress!

  1. 30m (24 M1) Aid on carrot, left under the roof then right. Up wall and arete to break. Up to belay on ledge.

  2. 35m (22) Up the arete.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1984

24 M0 Aid 65m 2

1.5. Teenage Buttress 7 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** I Was a Teenager For the CIA

One of the mountains' finest arete routes. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

Start: Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you.

  1. 28m (24) Take 6-8 bolt brackets and 15 quickdraws. Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m past old carrots and a couple of hard moves, to the main face. The rock quality now improves. Traverse left to the arête. Now strenuously up the arête to a hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

  2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch (rebolted 2004). Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

FA: J.Smoothy, M.Stacey, 1988

24 Sport 65m 2
2 ** David Hicks Memorial Route

Direct finish to I was a Teenager for the CIA. 26 in the guidebook?

FA: Simon Atkins, 2006

25 Trad 20m
3 *** Teenage Nervous Breakdown

The middle route on the face. Rebolted 2004

Start: Rap down the centre of the face. Route starts at the chain belay for Teenage 'Werewolf'.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1986

24 to 26 Sport 40m
4 ** Beautiful but Limp

Links the start of Teenage 'Werewolf' into Teenage NB.

Start: Through choss off bottom ledge. At 3m step right and head straight up.

FA: R.Heap, 1999

27 Sport 50m
5 ** I Was a Teenage Werewolf

The lefthand arete (facing out). Needs rebolting.

Start: Rap in from rings on the left of the butress (facing out).

  1. 25m (24) As for TfCIA but head right through choss to the arete and belay.

  2. 30m (22) Up the arete to the top.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1984

23 Sport 55m 2
6 ** Puberty Blues

Start: Rap from the top of the cliff. 5m left of the left hand arete (IwaTW). Looking out.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Cuthbertson, 1988

21 Trad 30m
7 Prepubescence

Direct start to PB.

Start: Rap to the bottom. Corner on the right side of the butress (looking in). Up to belay of PB, then up.

FA: M.Law,S.Moon, 1991

25 Trad 25m

1.6. Jungle Two 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fossil Fling

Big undercut V corner. A bit of a bush bash to get in.

  1. 22m (19) Bridge corner, right wall to edge of roof and stance.Up to next small ledge, chimney/groove, blocks to cave and tree?

  2. 21m (19) Left to stance below dirty crack. Up to ledges, right to arete. Take care!

  3. 17m (19) Wall, up and left.

FA: J.Friend,K.Carrigan, 1974

19 Trad 60m 3
2 The Three Stooges

Start: 20m right of FF. Ferney corner right of white choss.

  1. 15m (21) 'Grovel' to roof and corner, right to arete.

  2. 35m (21) Squeeze into slot then out over the roof into corner. 'Steep' crack to tree? Corner to ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Head off to the left.

FA: M.Law,J.Ewbank,A.Penney, 1979

21 R Trad 70m 3

1.7. Outer Space Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * I Married A Monster From Outer Space

Start: The right most butress. Left hand route.

  1. 15m (20) Wall and corner (right of the main vegetated corner). Move left to main corner.

  2. 30m (22) Corner, left to ledge.

  3. 20m (20) Hard start then the seam. Take RP's!

FA: G.Bradbury,R.Miller, 1983

22 Trad 65m 3
2 * Big Red

Note pitch lenths!

Start: Walk in or rap. 10m plus 50m! from ICfOS chains.

  1. 51m (27) Short corner 2m right of ImaMfOS. 21 fixed hangers!

  2. 9m (25) Up.

FA: M.Law,J.Holbeck, 1992

27 Trad 60m 2
3 *** It Came from Outer Space

Start: 'Small' flake right of undercut arete. 10m right of IMaMfOS.

  1. 35m (25) 'Flake', mantle, then left above the undercut. Up to below the footledge. Left to arete. Up to ledge (?) and arete to hanging belay.

  2. 20m (23) Shale ledge to steep arete. To break then left side of arete. Wall and arete to ledge belay.

  3. 15m (19) 'Small' bulge and flakes right of the belay. Up left and out.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

25 Trad 70m 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Unknown Gridbolt for kids? Sport 1.1. Access Gully Wall
10 R Nantucket Sleigh Ride Trad 48m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
15 Bacon Sport 25m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Long John Silver Sport 20m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
15 R * Atilla Trad 86m 4 1.3. Black Gold Buttress
17 Glabrate Sport 25m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Pushover Pinnacle Trad 45m 1.2. Fashion Area
18 Malificent Sport 25m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Nappy Action Sport 22m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
19 Captain Hook Sport 25m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Claw Tortoise Sport 22m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Lightning McQueen Sport 22m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Pushover Pinnacle Direct Sport 20m, 9 1.2. Fashion Area
** White Light Trad 45m 1.3. Black Gold Buttress
* Fossil Fling Trad 60m 3 1.6. Jungle Two
21 Stromboli Sport 25m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
* Queen Bitch Sport 15m 1.2. Fashion Area
** Long Distance Relationships Mixed 50m, 20 1.3. Black Gold Buttress
** Puberty Blues Trad 30m 1.5. Teenage Buttress
21 R The Three Stooges Trad 70m 3 1.6. Jungle Two
22 ** Screen Gems Trad 50m 1.4. Jungle One
* I Married A Monster From Outer Space Trad 65m 3 1.7. Outer Space Buttress
23 * Uncontrollable Urge Sport 22m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
** Fashion Sport 15m 1.2. Fashion Area
** I Was a Teenage Werewolf Sport 55m 2 1.5. Teenage Buttress
23 R * Bubbling Crude Trad 45m 1.3. Black Gold Buttress
* Roark's Drift Trad 45m 1.4. Jungle One
24 ** Work Injury Sport 15m 1.2. Fashion Area
* Black Gold Trad 30m 1.3. Black Gold Buttress
** Texas Tea Sport 55m 1.3. Black Gold Buttress
*** I Was a Teenager For the CIA Sport 65m 2 1.5. Teenage Buttress
24 M0 Swimming Pools, Movie Stars Aid 65m 2 1.4. Jungle One
25 ** David Hicks Memorial Route Trad 20m 1.5. Teenage Buttress
Prepubescence Trad 25m 1.5. Teenage Buttress
*** It Came from Outer Space Trad 70m 3 1.7. Outer Space Buttress
24 to 26 *** Teenage Nervous Breakdown Sport 40m 1.5. Teenage Buttress
27 ** Beautiful but Limp Sport 50m 1.5. Teenage Buttress
* Big Red Trad 60m 2 1.7. Outer Space Buttress
? Lady Tremaine Sport 25m 1.1. Access Gully Wall
Project? Sport Project 1.2. Fashion Area