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Description:© (secretary)

One of the mountains' finest arete routes. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

Start: Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you.

  1. 28m (24) Take 6-8 bolt brackets and 15 quickdraws. Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m past old carrots and a couple of hard moves, to the main face. The rock quality now improves. Traverse left to the arête. Now strenuously up the arête to a hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

  2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch (rebolted 2004). Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: J.Smoothy & M.Stacey, 1988

Location:  

Located in Corroboree Walls approx:
Long/Lat: 150.249682,-33.598466

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
24 *** Blue Mountains Climbing
24 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
24 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 89%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

strenuous super beautiful fun classic awesome steep chossy arete technical balancy crack

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