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Summary

Boulders located on sandy beach area.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Turn off Megalong Road onto Aspinall Road and drive for 800metres to the junction of the 6ft track. Walk along the 6ft track for about 2km. Turn right down a fire trail past a sign that says 'private land'. Follow track down to the river. The boulders are located on the other side of the river on the sandy beach.

Where to stay

Old Ford Reserve, Megalong Valley Road. Camping not permitted by the river as it is private land.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V4 Early Exit Boulder
2
V3 *** Massive Attack Boulder
3
{US} V3 The Grand Arch Boulder 5m
4
V4 Man Eater Boulder
5
V2 ISOQC Boulder 3m

On north side of the beach. On left side of boulder. Undercling flake then up to the pocket on the face. Smear and tiny feet to top.

FA: Rebecca Mabbott, 2016

Activity

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