Showing all 13 routes.
|The Lost Pillar|
|13||★★ Bendy Banana Chimney
First pitch of first(?) ascent route of 'The Lost Pillar'. Start at DBB next to big block in high point of notch on Pillar side. Follows chimney (good pro) between precariously balanced banana shape block and Pillar to block perched on top, DBB on block or good natural gear belay on ledge below upper wall. Rap to notch off DBB.
FA: Tony Williams/Nora Adam/ Josh Dodson, 2003
|12||Original Way Up
2nd pitch of original route up Pillar. From top of Bendy Banana Chimney head up diagonally left up cracks and blocks to double ring anchors and top of Pillar.
FA: Josh Dodson/ Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2003
|15||★★★ Sherpa's Revolt
Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams right to arete of Lost Pillar and up to 'diving board' block. Great exposure and views. Belay bolts are the rap station rings at top of pillar. Sign the Log Book, Rap down Josh's pitch.
FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004
Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams on left side of upper tier and up to 'diving board' block. Belay station is the rap station (double rings) at top of Lost Pillar. 20m rap to 'Bendy Banana block' or 50m to notch (hard rope pull).
FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004
|23||★★★ Wafer Thin Fin
1 21 35m
2 22 18m
3 23 18m
One of the most novel routes in the country up an extraordinary natural feature that redefines the term knife blade arete. No amount of hyperbole will prepare you for the first sight of this exposed prow on a remote tower. Imagine 'Flake Crack' but without the main wall and 70m high. You can even hang your arm through holes in the arete in several places! Rock quality is generally pretty poor but it's all about position position and position! Protection is very good, generally on solid ring bolts and occasionally on bomber fixed slings tied through holes in the arete. Although technically this is a sport route be prepared for high amounts of rope admin - bring jumars, lots of biners and helmets. Have an escape plan if it all goes wrong and the tower falls down.
The route is located on the south east arete of the Lost Pillar on Dalpura Head. Locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble down the gully in an easterly direction to find the start of the route.
Stick clip the first bolt (or belay off the rap rope) to avoid a potentially bad fall off the ledge on the opening moves.
To descend scramble to true summit 5m away and locate double rings on west facing block. Rap 30m down into notch to a 2 x carrot belay (with an in-situ girth-hitched prussic to facilitate the next abseil (!) ), and rap another 30m back to the gully.
From the gully, either jumar back up the fixed ropes, or climb Welsh Dragon (shady) or The Opposition (harder and sun after 1pm). It's also possible to tyrolean off the top of the pillar (avoiding the first 80m of jumaring) by towing the end of the fixed abseil rope behind you up the climb.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas, 19 Oct 2008
|23||★ Lost Crack
1 23 20m
2 18 25m
3 19 25m
4 16 40m
Major direct corner system on the south west side of the pillar. All trad, and done ground up in the finest possible style (if you disregard nude soloing).
FFA: Adrian Lang & Mike Law, 2009
|18 M1||Josh's Big Trad Line
Attempt at major line on the south face. First ascent involved some minor aid, which was subsequently freed 5 years later by Ado and Mike. Finish as for 'Bendy Banana Chimney' then 'Original Way Up' finish.
FA: Josh Dodson & Tany, 2004
|23 M1||★★ I Scream and Grapple Sky
1 23 35m
2 23 45m
3 27 32m
4 20 13m
Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.
Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!).
Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.
It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.
FA: Neil Monteith, Jesse Lomas (P1, P2 & P3), 31 Oct 2008
FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas (P4), 31 Dec 2008
|25||★★ End of Days
Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established.
Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.
FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes (Alt Leads), 10 Oct 2008
A big arete.
Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.
FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster & Ness Peterson, 2000
FFA: Mikl & Ness, 2002
|19 M1||★ Welsh Dragon
2 16 15m
3 18 25m
4 19 28m
Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.
From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.
FA: Tony Williams, Nora Adam & Josh Dodson (P2-4), 2003
FA: Tony Williams (P1), 2006
|23||★ The Opposition
Gripping arete which offers a good three pitch escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. This is technically a sport route, but there are some runouts (especially off the belays) and chossy rock in sections which means you want to be solid at this grade to attempt this route. The one repeat of this route has also suggested an upgrade to grade 24. This route gets sun after 1pm so slip, slop and slap. 14 draws and 8 brackets.
Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.
FFA: Neil Monteith (all leads) & Ben Van Balen, 28 Feb 2009
1 25 35m
2 24 40m
3 24 35m
Classic big sport cranker. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in carrots. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates.
Start: Down to gully and out left. Locate lunch cave and scramble down to the R (facing out) to ledge and DBB (this is the 3rd belay).
FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999
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