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Routes in Dalpura Head

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Lost Pillar
13 Bendy Banana Chimney

First pitch of first(?) ascent route of 'The Lost Pillar'. Start at DBB next to big block in high point of notch on Pillar side. Follows chimney (good pro) between precariously balanced banana shape block and Pillar to block perched on top, DBB on block or good natural gear belay on ledge below upper wall. Rap to notch off DBB.

FA: Tony Williams/Nora Adam/ Josh Dodson, 2003

Trad 20m
12 Original Way Up

2nd pitch of original route up Pillar. From top of Bendy Banana Chimney head up diagonally left up cracks and blocks to double ring anchors and top of Pillar.

FA: Josh Dodson/ Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2003

Trad 20m
15 Sherpa's Revolt

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams right to arete of Lost Pillar and up to 'diving board' block. Great exposure and views. Belay bolts are the rap station rings at top of pillar. Sign the Log Book, Rap down Josh's pitch.

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

Mixed 20m, 3
16 Gundu

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams on left side of upper tier and up to 'diving board' block. Belay station is the rap station (double rings) at top of Lost Pillar. 20m rap to 'Bendy Banana block' or 50m to notch (hard rope pull).

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

Mixed 20m, 3
23 Wafer Thin Fin
1 21 35m
2 22 18m
3 23 18m

One of the most novel routes in the country up an extraordinary natural feature that redefines the term knife blade arete. No amount of hyperbole will prepare you for the first sight of this exposed prow on a remote tower. Imagine 'Flake Crack' but without the main wall and 70m high. You can even hang your arm through holes in the arete in several places! Rock quality is generally pretty poor but it's all about position position and position! Protection is very good, generally on solid ring bolts and occasionally on bomber fixed slings tied through holes in the arete. Although technically this is a sport route be prepared for high amounts of rope admin - bring jumars, lots of biners and helmets. Have an escape plan if it all goes wrong and the tower falls down.

The route is located on the south east arete of the Lost Pillar on Dalpura Head. Locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble down the gully in an easterly direction to find the start of the route.

Stick clip the first bolt (or belay off the rap rope) to avoid a potentially bad fall off the ledge on the opening moves.

  1. 35m (21) The Floating Fin Pitch. Start on right wall of fin, about 5m up the gully. Traverse hard left across the horizontal break (super chossy) past lots of stainless to gain better rock on left side of arete. Up. No, seriously keep going up. Belay on ledge at triple bolt belay. Rope drag is a minor issue on this pitch.

  2. 18m (22) Sea Cliff Pitch. Go against all logic and traverse out right above the sucking void to gain the knife blade arete again. Up. Yes, the slings are bomber. No, you can't come down. Take care with the top-out onto the belay ledge, there is quite a bit of small loose shale. Double ring belay.

  3. 18m (23) Sandy Boulder Pitch. Surprisingly punchy in the bottom half. First bolt is a dangerously high clip, so pull on belay bolts to reach it. Belay on double rings and FH.

To descend scramble to true summit 5m away and locate double rings on west facing block. Rap 30m down into notch to a 2 x carrot belay (with an in-situ girth-hitched prussic to facilitate the next abseil (!) ), and rap another 30m back to the gully.

From the gully, either jumar back up the fixed ropes, or climb Welsh Dragon (shady) or The Opposition (harder and sun after 1pm). It's also possible to tyrolean off the top of the pillar (avoiding the first 80m of jumaring) by towing the end of the fixed abseil rope behind you up the climb.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas, 19 Oct 2008

Sport 71m, 3
23 Lost Crack
1 23 20m
2 18 25m
3 19 25m
4 16 40m

Major direct corner system on the south west side of the pillar. All trad, and done ground up in the finest possible style (if you disregard nude soloing).

  1. 20m (23) Up thin crack and either step right to belay or continue straight up second pitch. This pitch is shared with Josh's Big Trad Line.

  2. 25m (18) Step back into thin corner and up, past blocks and roof to base of clean chimney

  3. 25m (19) Up clean line and thru roof to belay

  4. 40m (16) Up chimney to ledge and finish up right arete (Gundu).

FFA: Adrian Lang & Mike Law, 2009

Trad 110m, 4
18 M1 Josh's Big Trad Line

Attempt at major line on the south face. First ascent involved some minor aid, which was subsequently freed 5 years later by Ado and Mike. Finish as for 'Bendy Banana Chimney' then 'Original Way Up' finish.

  1. 20m (18 M1) Up line 6m left of chossy chimney on south face. This is the same as pitch 1 of Lost Crack (23)

  2. 40m (-) 2) 40m Up corner system and left to notch

FA: Josh Dodson & Tany, 2004

Unknown 60m, 2
Dalpura Wall
23 M1 I Scream and Grapple Sky
1 23 35m
2 23 45m
3 27 32m
4 20 13m

Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.

Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!).

Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.

It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.

  1. 35m (23) Long and sustained face climbing. Easy sandy corner crack to roof, undercling left and across face which thins alarmingly near the end.

  2. 45m (23) Long and exposed fused flake just right of arete to top of pillar. Up and left across short orange face to shale break. Past this on jugs to belay in slabby corner stance at triple bolt belay. Sustained!

  3. 32m (23M1 or 27) Yet to be led clean. Pull on crux bolt (tricky to clip!) to knock this pitch down from grade 27 to grade 23. Left onto arete then left again to short juggy face. Thin moves to horizontal, left along this to reachy move over rooflet (glued-up hold). Up very exposed left facing corner to juggy finish and comfy bivi ledge under huge roof.

  4. 13m (20) Short, steep and exposed. Up and left on ironstone jugs to hit roof at mossy crack. Jugs to top. Double ring belay.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jesse Lomas (P1, P2 & P3), 31 Oct 2008

FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas (P4), 31 Dec 2008

Sport 130m, 4
25 End of Days

Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established.

Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.

  1. 30m (22) Start as for I Scream pitch 1 at wide sandy corner crack. At 2nd bolt step right (trad) and up steep flake crack, mostly on finger/small hand sized cams. One bolt when the flake gets wafer thin. Finish up wall on bomber micro cams. Belay on comfy ledge right of orange wall.

  2. 20m (23) Stellar! Left across orange face to breach roof on left side. Up exposed techy arete to belay ledge. A sport pitch.

  3. 20m (25) Stretch those calves and chalk those palms! Traverse left to stunning fused bridging corner that's lovingly cleaned to perfection. Four bolts then final finger crack on cams.

  4. 15m (15) Easy juggy ironstone slab trending left. Belay on big vegetated ledge.

  5. 35m (21) Surprisingly sustained face which looks like an ironstone jug haul from below. Bring three bolt hangers for the occasional random carrot.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes (Alt Leads), 10 Oct 2008

Trad 120m, 5
27 Jocation

A big arete.

Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.

  1. 50m (27) Rounded arete past bolts to ledge, 2nd bolt needs a sling to ease clip-fear.

  2. 50m (18) Loose arete past bolts. Mike thought this was going to be grade 8 when he bolted it.

FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster & Ness Peterson, 2000

FFA: Mikl & Ness, 2002

Sport 100m, 2
19 M1 Welsh Dragon
1 20m
2 16 15m
3 18 25m
4 19 28m

Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.

From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.

  1. 20m (M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from notch between Lost Pillar and main wall and up to ledge. Scramble carefully right along ledge to DBB.

  2. 15m (16) Delicate moves on a rising traverse right past four BR to triple bolt belay. Good warm up for next pitch.

  3. 25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. Dangerous runout to the 1st and 2nd BR. 6 BRs in total and a #3 camalot could be helpful to calm the nerves. Finish by picking your way through 1 foot shale ledge to bushes and DBB.

  4. 28m (19) Great exposure and positions up the vertical wall on many good and not-so good holds. Belay at initial rap point. 11 BRs.

FA: Tony Williams, Nora Adam & Josh Dodson (P2-4), 2003

FA: Tony Williams (P1), 2006

Sport 88m, 4
23 The Opposition

Gripping arete which offers a good three pitch escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. This is technically a sport route, but there are some runouts (especially off the belays) and chossy rock in sections which means you want to be solid at this grade to attempt this route. The one repeat of this route has also suggested an upgrade to grade 24. This route gets sun after 1pm so slip, slop and slap. 14 draws and 8 brackets.

Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.

  1. 15m (22) From tiny ledge with no anchors climb leftwards to high first ubolt (try and stick-clip this with a 5m stick so you don't die) then left again to arete. Ponder the lack of holds, find a solution and scuttle up to belay below steep orange arete.

  2. 40m (23) Steeply up right side of arete with a few long moves. Cross a minor choss band then continue up the ladder of jugs. Finish with a few techy crimp moves on the left then right side of arete.

  3. 40m (18) Jugs to big break, over this then up techy black arete on little ironstone edges. Ramble up ledgy stuff to finish. Bolt plates needed for this pitch. Belay off double BRs.

FFA: Neil Monteith (all leads) & Ben Van Balen, 28 Feb 2009

Sport 95m, 3
25 Crankenstein
1 25 35m
2 24 40m
3 24 35m

Classic big sport cranker. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in carrots. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates.

Start: Down to gully and out left. Locate lunch cave and scramble down to the R (facing out) to ledge and DBB (this is the 3rd belay).

  1. 35m (25) Up leaning L side of arete until obvious move around to R side. Up to small footledge and semi-hanging DBB. About 11 BRs.

  2. 40m (24) Follow the amazing steep line of scoops for miles until it blanks out on a black wall. Thin moves then up to Balderstone Point and DBB. Scramble up to the other DBB on Balderstone Point.

  3. 35m (24) Out L then crank onto arete (desperate). Up arete which looks easy to top.

FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999

Sport 110m, 3

Showing all 13 routes.